All news: July 2016

Hello everyone! Here is  Vladimir Kotlyar and the team "Positive FM". Today we are at Leaprus, our shelter with panoramic windows with views of glaciers and mountains. In the afternoon we were acclimated to 4100. We work out with ice ax, jumped, rode on the snow. Wet and happy went back home. Now we celebrate the birthday of Alexander Lipatov, a full-fledged member of our group...

Yesterday, a large and friendly team from Indonesia acclimatized on the slopes of the peak Terskol, led by guides 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko and Sergei Larin. They rose to the Observatory and admired the wonderful view from there. The current outing was already on Elbrus itself, its slopes. There, our guides conducted the first training on how to behave on snow and ice slopes, new to many Indonesians as a relief.

On the first day after their arrival, the group entered for the ice training on the glacier Mer de Glace. The weather was beautiful, everything was great. 2-3 serene day may be enough to ensure that the route of the Matterhorn came into a state suitable for climbing. The first attempt of our group to climb the mountain ended far from the top, too much snow on the rocks...

 In the morning it was the rain. We went to the Vyborg Castle, then took to the water. Later afternoon we went on the rocks to Palzevo, where we climbed, trained.

 The day before, we practiced on the rocks in the Monrepo Park

Lyudmila Korobeshko: A large group of Indonesians (15 persons) arrived today at the airport Mineralnye Vody, by the program Elbrus. They brought the heat to + 35. We will  have fun. Guides of group: Lyudmila Korobeshko and Sergey Larin.

In general, our 7 Summits Club today has a "mega-check", the route begin at once three large groups.

Photos of the climbing day. On Sunday June 26th a large team of eleven people under the leadership of the 7 Summits Club guide Olga Rumyantseva made a successful ascent to the summit of Stok Kangri in the Indian Himalayas. Assault Day was not easy - all the climb with descent took 19 hours.

 



Но потом начинает светлеть. Постепенно начинаешь просыпаться и вспоминаешь, что Сток Кангри - самая высокая вершина в данном месте. А значит нам все-таки туда, наверх. То есть очень далеко.

























К этому моменту народ уже стало конкретно плющить и горняшить.
Видите, как я внимательно смотрю на солнышко?



Не то чтобы я так уж интересовалась небесным светилом. Скорее уж чтоб рядом валяющихся товарищей не замечать.



Но смотри не смотри и лежи не лежи, до вершины как-то идти надо. Поэтому на привалах все приваливались, но по команде сразу вставали и дисциплинированно как роботы шли наверх.



Крутизна склона увеличивалась, появились небольшие участки льда, и мы связались. В смысле пошли в связках. Для людей, чувствующих себя на горных склонах уверенно такой уж большой необходимости нет. Но это был не наш случай.



Не буду утомлять вас деталями нашего восхождения. Ибо разнообразие их было небольшое.
Мы шли, ползли, лезли. Многим было не очень хорошо. Некоторым откровенно плохо.
Как кадр всплывает картинка: Лена с Кристинкой валяющиеся по обе стороны одного камушка и Тимур мутным взглядом обводя их: "Ни фига себе сходил в отпуск."

После того, как вылезли на гребень стало гораздо красивее и появилось больше шансов куда-нибудь упасть, увлёкшись красотами.






Солнце поднималось выше. Час тёк за часом. И становилось ясно, что мы тут не в сказку попали. Хотя виды по сторонам были сказочные.

Но знаете, что лично мне запомнилось больше всего?
Больше всего мне запомнилось отношение участников друг другу.
Давно я такого не видела.
Да, всем было тяжело и плохо. Но все поддерживали друг друга словами и делами, переживали, делились последним глотком чая.






Вот уже вершина совсем близко.
Андрей, снимающий видео:
- Оля, скажи нам, это вершина?
- Нет, Андрей, это такое предвершинное место, где для усталых путников складывают еду и воду.

И панический голос за спиной:
- Что?! Это еще не вершина?!!!

Интересно, войдёт ли это в фильм о нашем восхождении :)



И, как говорится, весь мир на ладони ты счастлив



и нем...
И никому уже не завидуешь.






Но у нас еще хватило сил встретить вторую связку, где были наши героини этого непростого восхождения.



Мы сидели на вершине и каждый думал о чем-то своем. Лично я о том, что ведь надо еще и вниз как-то спуститься.



фотография под названием: тот неловкий момент, когда очень хочется оказаться внизу, но вспоминаешь, что ты тут гид.

Впрочем, что это я. Разве такие фотографии с вершины нужно показывать.
Вот она - неприкрытая радость достижения вершины.



Спуск вниз был не менее эпичен и почти героичен.
Я с ужасом смотрела, как люди на подгибающихся ногах падали практически на ровном месте, а упав барахтались как крабы не в силах встать.



В одном месте пришлось даже верхнюю страховку организовать. Ибо так оно спокойнее было.



А на склоне снег растаял, и мы ползли проваливаясь по грудь.
Вернее, обнаружив, что при попытке сделать шаг, проваливаешься по грудь, мы - два местных гида и я - встали вперед и стали рыть траншею, утрамбовывая снег.

Все это отнимало силы и время, но самое главное мы сделали и нужно было просто доползти как-то вниз.



А у ледника нас встречал наш Вончюк с командой китчен боев. Они принесли чай и забрали у уставших участников рюкзаки.

Это придало сил и скорости.



Еще час-полтора по склонам, где мы шли в темноте. Был седьмой час вечера. Самое время поужинать.






Наши повернувшие назад товарищи ждали нас в лагере, ждали. Потом не выдержали и пошли на встречу и встречали всех на перевале.



Последний взгляд на нашу вершину с перевала перед спуском в лагерь.



Такую красивую и непростую. Но оставившую незабываемые впечатления.

Mount Kilimanjaro is located in the Southern Hemisphere, although very close to the equator. Formally, now there is winter here, although in these places from the summer it is not too different. So - greetings to you from winter from Artem Rostovtsev! He ran with a group of the top and down so fast that the summit picture is only in the form of night ...

Today, a large group led by Andrei Berezin climbed Western peak of Mount Elbrus. Then the main part of the group began to descend to the north and safely came down to the Glade of Emanuel. Alex Byakin and guide Vladimir Kotlyar split from the group on the saddle. They successfully climbed to the Eastern Peak of Elbrus, and caught up with a group already at the bottom, in the meadows of the North slope of Elbrus. That is, they did "Cross of Elbrus" in the full version.

Polish mountaineers led by a guide Sergey Larin climbed independently from the main group. The group consisted of Father - Bartek, Son - Maciek and Mother - Renata. They have successfully reached the Western Peak, and then the guide and climbed the Eastern Peak. Mama Renata (at her home she has three more children) went on their own to the refuge Leaprus where she waited for her husband and son.

As a result, all participants performed their target. We congratulate the climbers!

Hi, Seven Summits! It is Artem Rostovtsev. We are now in the Barafu camp. At the moment we have dawn, we admire them. We have not overslept, woke up on time and  already went to the summit and come down. It was very easy to go. We decided that the slow pace even begin to ruin us in high altitude. Why be here  a lot of time? We decided to watch the sunrise in the Barafu camp. I think it happens so rarely. We went unscathed, healthy, rest a couple of hours and go down. Greetings from Tanzania, from Kilimanjaro! Artem Rostovtsev

They climbed the highest peak in the Alps. Weather conditions in the area of Mont Blanc summit were not the most favorable. This all can be seen in photos from the top that was sent us by guide of the 7 Summits Club Yegor Dulnev ...

Hello! This is a guide of the Seven Summits Club Andrei Berezin, from Elbrus. Today our group got to the shelter Leaprus. After we were placed in the refuge and had lunch, we went to the snow training sessions ... In the group, all participants are feeling well. The mood is high. Tomorrow the plan is to go to the Pastukhov Rocks. Andrey Berezin.

Climbing Mount Everest in the spring of 2016. The 7 Summits Club expedition. Filming of the RD Studio of  the Russian TV 1 Channel led by Valdis Pelsh. Yet the teaser. Total film will be released in autumn 2016.

We spent  unforgettable 10 days north of the 78 parallel.

The weather was hot for the north, almost +10. During this time, we managed to:

- To furrow  the sea on a boat Polyartsirkul,

- Take a walk on the tundra and climb the Mount of Pyramid,

- Communicate with deer and whales,

- To assess the blue glaciers of Spitsbergen,

- Visit the monument to the victory of communism,

- Be removed from the ice floes,

- And finally fall in love with the North ...

Just a bear hug we experienced only in a museum. And thank God...

Vladimir Gusakovsky

July 9^th  the first group of the 7 Summits Club fly in the Pamirs. A total of this season it  will be four groups  - a record number for our company. Lenin Peak - this is a great opportunity to really feel the altitude of the first step to the expeditionary mountaineering. Route at all its stages and components of the long hours worked by our hosting partners, in terms of logistics - everything clearly and without problems. But the decisive factor is still personal involvement of each person. The victory, if the Mountain let, will be a personal victory for everyone.

Hi,  Seven Summits! Take the information from the Caucasus! Today at 6:30 am, a group named "Skolkovo" in full stood on the Western peak of Mount Elbrus. Now, time is 10-30, the entire group safely came down to the shelter Leaprus. All is well, all alive and well, except for some abrasions and blisters. Dmitry Tertychnyi, a young 15-year-old climber, also successfully climbed the top. The ascent was difficult due to the fact that there was a lack of acclimatization. A little time we had to acclimatize. But we decided to go to try to climb to the summit today. Since tomorrow the weather worsens and the window on Saturday - was not clear. Therefore, we decided to collect will in a fist. And we did it! You can congratulate us! Bye! Sergey Larin.

It is a guide of the Seven Summits Club Andrei Berezin. Yesterday the group "Wild boars" climbed to the both summits of Elbrus and went to the North Slope. The five-person, five people ....  Yesterday we went down at once to the Glade of Emmanuel ... and then today we moved to Pyatigorsk ... The temperature in the city was higher than we had on mountains. Approximately there are about 30 degree, we had about minus 10 at night on Elbrus. Therefore, we get warm after climbing. Hello! Andrey Berezin.

On the first day  climbers went for acclimatization on the slopes of Mount Cheget. The group is interesting in that 15-year-old Dmitry Tertychnyi takes part in it. With a little luck, Elbrus will be his third of the "Seven Summits" after Carstenzs and Aconcagua. It will also be a crucial incentive to continue the ascents on the program -  to become the youngest Russian, and perhaps European, completed the "Seven Summits" ...

Climbing was successful in fine weather. Mountaineers made wonderful pictures. The top was conquered by two Chinese climbers and their guide Sergey Avtomonov.

 Here is his message:

 "Today we went to the Western peak of Elbrus, successfully skiing and snowboarding down. Now we are waiting for a well deserved rest and recovery for the next climb."

Today, the guides of the 7 Summits Club Andrei Berezin  and Vladimir Kotlyar, together with a group of "wild mountain boars" climbed the Leaprus shelter. After that they went to the snow training sessions, work with the axe and  learning to make traverse on fixed ropes. The Group is strong, fighting, fun, all the participants - not for the first time in the mountains. Now the group plans to climb both peaks of Elbrus and the descent to the North ....