All news: 2017

Alex Abramov, a leader of the Everest expedition:

Today, finally, we got to Lhasa and settled in the cool Intercontinental hotel. We need to give people a rest from the expedition life, it was difficult to live under field conditions for 40 days. A little about outcomes. We conducted an expedition in 39 days. This is probably the shortest of the Everest expedition for 10 years. The experiment was a success and showed that it is possible. Just do not economize , let more oxygen.

After all, all problems on the high altitude are from the lack of oxygen.

In our expedition there was records and remarkable achievements. And some of them we pointed out today.

Janusz Kochanski – world record of 126 days on all 7 summits.

Eugene Kravt successfully completed the 7 summits project.

Aznaur Akaev – 3rd Balkar climber who became a summiter of Everest.

Valery Tebiev – the first since 1995 Ossetian mountaineer who climbed Mount Everest.

Daniil Briman - made the ascent in sporty style.

Andrei Starikovsky, the first Russian American Professor on Everest.

Other heroes: world women record holder Lhakpa Sherpa, Oleg Savchenko and Alexander Sidyakin have already left home.

Sergei Larin – 6th time on the summit of Everest.

Alexander Abramov – 8 times – a new record for Russia and the CIS.

 Oleg Savchenko, Everest summiter in the team the 7 summits Club, a former Deputy of the Duma of the Russian Federation:

 Yes, we managed, as promised, to preserve fully but  the one body. This is the body of Lihteneker Marko from Slovenia. All dead climbers that are on the slopes, they are in different poses. I was just horrified. I thought when they announced this action, I saw pictures in internet but it was not so impressive. It's a terrible sight to see people who are 20 years, 40 years in that condition, with that expression on his face, with which they died. And we have not much time but did it.

 I am very grateful to the Sherpas who accompanied us, that they agreed to help us. According to their faith, they are forbidden to touch the dead bodies. I went in one group with Alexander Sidyakin, my friend and Deputy of the Russian State Duma. We were accompanied by two Sherpas.

We also managed to cover the "famous" green boots. Everyone knows that at the level of 8 500 meters... (said with heavy breathing - approx. ed.)... Sorry, I now the air is not enough... In 1996 there died one Indian climber Tsewang Paljor, he just lay down to rest and froze to death. His body had frozen into stone. He had a green climbing boots. And all the climbers began to determine the height to talk about the green shoes. This is the mark of 8,500 meters.

 We were able to do some semblance of the grave, covered his body with stones. Now there is no this reference. I think it's better to use gadgets for navigation than dead body.

 Another body of a climber from Ireland we tried to pull out, but were unable. He hangs on the ropes at the altitude 8600 meters. When we have been trying,  I have "flown" the glove, I ended up frostbitten hands. And then it was impossible to continue.

  Most importantly, all of the climbers in base camp have supported our initiative. It is about 600 climbers of all nationalities, from all over the world. From South Africa, India and to North America. Moreover, it was supported by the official Chinese…

 Marko Lihteneker (1959 -2005) was one of the first foreigners who took part in the ascent to Everest in the expedition of the 7 summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. He and his partner Viktor Mlinár positioned itself as an experienced, strong athletes who wanted  to make a quick ascent before to the top goes the main mass of climbers. And not to use the services of Sherpas.

  Marko was a member of the national team of Slovenia for ski-mountaineering and marathon runner, there was no doubt about his physical condition. And his friend Viktor had no doubt that there is something wrong in the fact that his comrade  goes behind. Just Marko all the time had small problems with the oxygen equipment he set up. Mlinár was afraid of frostbite and so I decided to go without delay. Be with them, someone from the Sherpas,  a misfortune most likely could have been avoided. Lihteneker died on the descent from the summit of Mount Everest, a problem with the oxygen equipment apparently played a major role in this. The frozen body of  the Slovenian climber, hung on ropes at a height of 8800 meters, more than 10 years the terror of the rising climbers. And now the body is covered. Hope for a long time. Will check in a year.

May 22 at 4: 30 am Nepal time the second team of the 7 summits Club reached the summit of Everest. These were: Valery Tebiev, Daniil Briman, Eugene Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Alexander Abramov (his 8th times). Now they have gone down to the base camp. All climbers feel fine. Tomorrow or the day after they are ready to go to Lhasa. And later in Kathmandu, and in Russia.

Once again, congratulations on a successful ascent!

See unique photos:

An hour ago, Alexander Abramov reports, that today, May 22th, at 4: 30 am Nepal time, the team reached the summit of Mount Everest. Have a good descent, guys!

 At 6 am in Moscow all members were already on 8300 and continued the descent.

 The summit was reached by: Valery Tebiev, Daniil Briman, Eugene Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Alex Abramov (8th times).

Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from camp 8300.

 Our entire team at 8300. Already above Cho-Oyu. In General, as this is our 4th outing, everyone is feeling great. All parts of the route: base camp – middle camp, middle camp – ABC, ABC– 7000, 7000 – 7800, 7800 – 8300 we passed exactly  in 3:45. All! I'm scared that we will do tomorrow. Again 3:45 to the summit?

Now the weather at 8300 is windless. And the forecast is the same. It seems, we caught a beautiful night for climbing.

 One thing upset. It looks like tonight or this morning, one climber died five meters below 8300. It is still unknown from which expedition. But he went without oxygen. It seems the dead man is just lying around the trail.

 The route on Everest

https://yandex.ru/everest/

Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the camp 7800.

 Today at 7500, we met Janusz Kochanski, our member from Poland, which is already the second time takes part in our expeditions on Everest. We let him go ahead of our group to make a world record. And he did it. After today's climb, the speed record for completing all of the "seven summits" is 128 days. Janusz began in Antarctica, it was January 13 or 14, with Mount Vinson. And he finished on 20^th of May, when he climbed Mount Everest.

Record of Colin O’Brady from 2016 was 132 days.

 Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the slopes of Everest.

 Our team Abramov Alex, Briman Daniil, Kravt Eugene, Tebiev Valery, Akkaev  Aznaur – all climbed to 7800. We feel excellent. The weather is a little windy. With us four Sherpas are going up. We already camped in tents, ate, everything is OK. Tomorrow at 10 am we go to 8300.

 In the base camp staff and friends prepare to meet the heroes, the team of Sergey Larin  shall be back tonight.

 Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the slopes of Everest.

Hi! From the North Col at 7,000 m. Today, our group climbed up the Saddle, with a plan to climb the summit at 22th May. Today Andrei Starikovsky at 6:00 am climbed up to the top of Everest. Later the rest of the first team headed by Sergei Larin (Alexander Sidyakin and Oleg Savchenko plus Sherpas) reached the summit. It happened around 12:00. Now, at 16:00, the whole team went down to the camp 8300...

See route on

https://yandex.ru/everest/

Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the slopes of Everest.

Day 32. May 18. The Expedition of the  7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

Today, the team of Alexander Abramov moved to camp ABC at 6400m. Hence it is a hand... the foot of the mountain

Today the group under the management of Sergey Larin moved from camp 7800 to camp 8300. On the ridge today there was a heavy wind. But as usual,  in the evening the wind abates. We hope that tonight our friends could start to a summit bid. My team tomorrow plans to move from the camp at 6400 to the North Col where we will wait for the descent of the team of Sergey Larin from the summit. They are OK now,  physical conditions are excellent, in a group there is 6 Sherpas on three participants and one guide. And a lot of oxygen.

The route on

https://yandex.ru/everest/

Alex Abramov from Tibet.

Day 31. May 17. Expedition the 7 Summits Club “Everest 2017”.

Today, our well-rested team (3 days we were recovering at the base camp) again came from the base camp towards the summit. The plan: to climb to the top on May 22th. We are now on the 5800 camp. Tomorrow – ABC. Now our second team, Sergey Larin with three members is in the camp at 7800 meters. Tomorrow they go to 8300 and  next night – assault.

Day... May 17, 2017
7 Summits Club Everest 2017 Expedition.
Yesterday, Lakpa Sherpa returned to Base Camp after summiting Everest for the 8th time! New World Record for women!
Our second team is starting today from the Base Camp. With summit day set for May 22nd! Yanush Khohansky is in this team. He is going for the record as well - 7 Summits in 129 days.
Our first team spent the night on North Col (7000 m or 23000 ft) and moving today into 7800 m Camp (25600 ft). Summit day is set for May 19.
Weather is great, condition of the rout is great. All team members are eager to go up! Battle up!

May 14. Yay! Hooray For The 7 Summits Club!!!! There is the first ascent on Everest in 2017!

This is the team of the 7 Summits Club:  Nima Dorji Sherpa (9th time on the top) and the Female World record holder Lhakpa Sherpa, climbed Mount Everest 8th time!!! According to her story, the weather was terrible. Fixed ropes were inundated with 50 cm of snow and climbers had to pull out  it from under the snow. Near the summit there was a very strong wind and as a result Lhakpa has moderate frostbites on both cheeks.

Our second team under the leadership of Sergei Larin now  is preparing  to summit climb in the camp ABC 6400 m.

The group under the leadership of Alex Abramov  (first team) went from ABC  back  to the Base camp at 5100 m to recover and after 2 days again to start for the summit.

 The weather on Everest is now not good:  waist-deep snow and heavy wind. From the Nepalese side there is no one summit. From our side we have just a team of Sherpas who fixed rope to the top, a small team from India and our heroic deuce, headed by World record holder - Lhakpa Sherpa...

The leader of the expedition on Everest Alex Abramov from Tibet.

 Day 26. May 12.

The expedition  of the 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

Friends, we go up to the assault of Mount Everest in about an hour.

The first group is under the leadership of Alex Abramov. Daniil Briman, Eugeny Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Valery Tebiev, Janusz Kochanski. Here's the plan: today, May 12^th  - Middle Camp, 5800. Tomorrow, May 13^th  – camp ABC. The next day, 14^th of May – the North Col, 7000. Then May 15^th  - camp 7700. Then, May 16^th  – camp 8300. Then on 17th of May, the summit bid and descent to 6400. The second group under the leadership of Sergei Larin will go after us, a day later. Wish us Luck!

The leader of the expedition on Everest Alexa Abramov from Tibet.

 Day 24. May 10^th .

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning, the Chinese called us to the feast of cleaning debris. There were a lot of journalists. Then all dispersed. And I happily went to the village Tashijong 4200m, to the other members of the expedition. I slept all day, because there is incredibly much oxygen  here .

Day 25. May 11^th .

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning we decided to go back to the Base camp as the weather like getting better. And many of the expedition had moved to the ABC camp. And here we are at the Base camp. First we were reported that today the Sherpas fixed the ropes to the top. Probably tomorrow we will go up to Middle camp.

Alexander Abramov has sent photographs illustrating previous posts. It was the second acclimatization exit, during which the team climbed to the camp on the North Saddle (North Col) and spent a night there. Everything goes according to the plan, and today our team is celebrating the Victory Day in the base camp...

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club:  

For All, Nepali Hello! After yesterday's ascent on Mera Peak, today we successfully evacuated by helicopter to Lukla. Most of the team immediately flew to Kathmandu and then home, the program is completed. Others, who think it is not enough, went for a walk towards Namche and beyond. And the one, who loves to run, was lucky to see over both days Everest from two different angles: yesterday – from Mera Peak, today from the view point above Namche Bazaar.

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the North Col camp:

Day 21. May 7. The Expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning our whole team was ready to quickly run to the North Col for acclimatization. But then from the heaven came the order came to organize Puja. All expeditions have a mortar, but we do not. Therefore, only 9 am for Nepal time we were able to get out of ABC in the direction of the North Col, 7000 metres. The team was in good condition. Sometimes, though, the criticism sounded in the address of the leader: why go fast, why stand, why not stand, why not go… Difficult to satisfy all 12 people. But I think I managed – experience of old-school.

And here we climbed to the Saddle. Immediately it began to snow. Generally, there is snow falls afternoon every day. Now the wind is almost off, but the crazy snow is predicted for all next week. On the North Col at 7000 meters, we have a cook. And large tent with tables and chairs is installed. Thanks to this comfort, members feel more free. There is even a tent as a toilet. In short, we have a full camp. We all sleep surprisingly  good and excellent. In the morning, the Sherpas got coffee in bed. Now we have a long way down to the base camp. And tomorrow is a Holiday on May 9. We want to organize a Super-Party, which has already become traditional.

Alex Abramov from camp ABC: Day 20. May 6. The expedition of the 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

 By the way, I slept on my 5800 fine, which indicates a good acclimatization. Yesterday to the Middle camp I came in 4:50. Today, from Middle camp to ABC - 5:30. A good time, given that it was snowing, and the strong wind on the path. Weather was not the best. But in the camp ABC it is cozy. At 6400 – cozy, unbelievable! But it's true. Excellent food, heaters in the tents.

Today  there was a joyful event,  Janusz (Kochanski) join us, our Pole. He just went from Mount Denali, that climbed in the "off season" in April. And already he is here. He is now doing the program "SevenSummits" a second time, as the first in Poland. He also currently completing  by Everest the program "Seven summits" for 4 months. This must be a new world record for speed. All his predecessors beginning with Mount Vinson in late January, and finally climbed Everest in May and then go on Denali in June. And Janusz decided to go to Denali before Everest. And he has a chance to finish high-speed version of the "Seven summits" already on May 20-21. Here are our recorsmen. As Lhakpa Sherpa, who  goes to Everest with our team for the eighth time. And may set a new world record among women.

 I'm going to sleep... Tomorrow we will exit to the North Col for the purpose of acclimatization. And on May 9th we have planned a festive evening in the base camp where we would like to invite all 14 expeditions.

Day 19. 5th of May. The expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest 2017.

 First day of second acclimatization. The report from the height of 5800 meters. We will again rise to 5800, 6500 and then to 7000 meters. I reached Middle camp in 4:50.  On the way I spoke with many leaders of expeditions. 7^th of May there will be a meeting on the organization of the route, securing fixed ropes above 8300 meters and to the top. No one wants to do it. The Chinese took it upon themselves last 5 years. But they are always scolded that they do it late. And they don't want to take responsibility now. I also don't want to. And nobody wants that.

I think it is a simple money question. And the Chinese will do as in previous years, but for more money than usual. I can bet!