All news: August 2018

Karina Mezova, guide of the 7 Summits Club: Today, August 14^th, a group named “Children of Ilyich” of 3 people and a guide climbed the Eastern summit of Elbrus, by North face after spending a night on the rocks of Lenz. One member (for health reasons) left the climb earlier and waited for us in the base camp. Tomorrow morning - departure to Pyatigorsk.

The team of the 7 Summits Club successfully climbed summit and returns home. All alive and well. On August 12th, a group of 7 members and 3 guides climbed one of the most beautiful mountains in the world – Alpamayo. The climb was  made by a difficult route, there was a lot of blue ice.  This peak is included in our program 7 Super Mountains, to which we invite you to join.

Here is a short report of Mont Blanc ascent from our guide :

   We climbed very well, Andrey and Alice liked it. But they thought it would be easier.

On the day of the ascent we managed to slip into the weather window, all clearly on time. When we went down the weather deteriorated, and then no one could reach the top.  We spent a night on the descent in the hut Gouter. The next day we went down by snow-covered and sometimes icy rocks…

Hello! This is Dos Piskas  team from Peru, Alexander Abramov. Today, at exactly 8 am, our team climbed to the top of Alpamayo.  The summit is small, so all climbers could not get together. We came in groups of 3-4 people. The weather was great, which helped us, of course.  It was very cold and difficult.  Just below the middle of the route there was still snow, and then went completely bare ice.  For many, it was a very difficult test. But, nevertheless, all people have shown themselves very well.

 The mountain is one of the seven in our project "SuperMountains", which includes technical routes, most famous, most beautiful, unique on the continent (Matterhorn, Ama Dablam, El Capitan, Mount Cook, Kenya, Ulvetanna).  

 Now we have already descended to the assault camp and begin descent further down.

Valery Tebiev: We made the traverse of Elbrus from South to North in the worst weather of those days that we were on the mountain. But there was no choice. We started at 10 PM, from the Refuge. At 5 am we were on the saddle. By this time the snow has added more wind. At 7 am we were on the Western summit. At 8 45 we started the ascent to the Eastern summit and by 11 o'clock we were at the goal. At this time the wind was already very strong. Friends helped me to make a photo with a flag. This is Alexey Artobolevsky and Alexander Sosnin. In the camp at 3800 on the North side we came to 15 30.

 Thus, Valery Tebiev successfully implements his project "Four mountains during the summer". Four mountains are: Demavend (5671m), Aragats (4090m), Kazbek (5033m) and Elbrus (5642m).

 Valery began his project with Iran, from the summit of the volcano Demavend (5671 m), the highest in Iran and Asia, which is part of the project 7 Volcanoes. In mid-June, as part of the team of the 7 Summits Club, in difficult weather conditions, Valery climbed to the top of Demavend.

 The route to mount Aragats in Armenia began with a tour of the Amberd fortress and overnight on Kari lake.

  On August 2th  Valery climbed the highest, Northern, peak of Aragats mountain (4090 m).

 The day after the ascent, Valery flew to Tbilisi. He then moved to the town Kazbegi and immediately began climbing Mount Kazbek. 6 Aug Valery Tebiev successfully reached the summit!

And the project was completed at 10^th of August.

Andrey Berezin, the main guide of the 7 Summits Club in Elbrus:

Today, the Wild Muflons group has climbed to the Western summit of Elbrus, all participants have reached the highest point. On the way to the top we met with snow and wind, and with low temperatures. But our group has successfully overcome these obstacles. Congratulations to the whole group with the ascent!

 Anastasia Dobrovolskaya at the top completed work on the painting on the top of Elbrus... This is the first picture painted on the highest mountain in Europe and Russia.

 Anastasia Dobrovolskaya:

Today I cried, cried for joy. Friends, I didn't believe that I managed it. There is the world's first painting on top of Elbrus!

 We are tired. The ascent did not last long, but it was not easy.

Thank you all so much for the support you sent me, I couldn't have done it without you!

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov, Dos Piskas group, climbing Alpamayo. Yesterday we went from the Camp Ruin Pampa at an altitude of 3900 meters to the base camp of Alpamayo at 4400 meters. Yesterday we were supposed to see the beautiful view of the Alpamayo.  But ... it's raining and snowing!

Valdis Pelsh's crew joined the Russian climbers' expedition to Everest, in order to climb the highest mountain in the world. The first expedition was interrupted by a series of earthquakes. In 2016 the group returned to the foot of Everest to tell the story of the conquests and to show the whole process of climbing the main peak on planet Earth. GENRE: documentary with elements of reality show DIRECTOR: Kristina Kozlova HOST: Valdis Pelsh Year of release: 2017

Vladimir Kotlyar, guide of the 7 Summits Club: We send congratulations  on the international day of mountaineering from the group of Myasoedov and Kotlyar!!! We went down to rest from a height of 6100 to camp 1! The mood is cheerful, we will delay the rest for a couple of days, we will catch a weather window and good luck by the tail…

The message from a guide of the 7 Summits Club:

There is summit!!! We climbed Mont Blanc just in two days!!! The blitz was a success, thanks to the high physical shape and cool weather that accompanied us during the ascent!!! Good work!

The President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov from Peru:

Team Dos Piskas. Today is the first day of trekking.  We drove 3 hours to the village at the altitude of 3100 m. Very scenic views.  We hired donkeys and went up. We planned to go directly to the camp 4500m, but changed our mind and decided to stay at an altitude of 3900. There's still Internet. Tomorrow we go to the pass 4800 m and go down to 4400. Weather's great.

Team Blitz “Desperate Housewive” tonight at 8: 00 am summited Mount Elbrus. We all return tired, but satisfied.  Weather was good.  Guide Alexander Dorojukov...

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov from Peru:

Dos Piskas team gathered in Lima today. First of all, we visited local museums. And of course we joined the fish cuisine and local drinks. Tomorrow at 3 in the morning we leave for Huaraz

Group Blitz "Desperate Housewives" is preparing to climb. Today we ran to the Refuge of 11 and held snow training. The weather leaves much to be desired. But we are determined.

Today is the birthday of one of our climbers!  We congratulate Olga Martynova with the 18th anniversary!

The group "World on a string" today successfully climbed to the Western summit of Elbrus. Now the peak of the season and there is a huge number of people who want to the highest mountain of Europe. We waited for about half an hour on the plateau, a hundred meters from the long-awaited peak, until a place at the top was available to make a group photo of our large group (12 participants).

A message from the guide of the 7 Summits Club from France:

The Ukrainian group of the 7 Summits Club climbed to the summit of Mont Blanc. One of members was 13-year-old boy. The team successfully coped with all the difficulties. And the weather favored the ascent.

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Lenin Peak:

 Hello, friends! The team of guides Valery Myasoedov and Vladimir Kotlyar "Jolly Roger" began its active acclimatization. Today we went to a small nameless summit with a height of 4100. We enjoyed the beautiful views and lunch brought with us from Osh…

Sergei Semykin, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Elbrus:

Group of Belgians welcomes you!

All the team members climbed the Western summit of Elbrus in excellent weather. Impressions and well-deserved fatigue we took down.

Today 01.08 at 6: 30 am KST group (corporate, from the company Karl Storz), all 8 people, climbed on the Western Peak of Elbrus. Later, at 9:30, 4 participants climbed on the Eastern summit. All this climb took place in conditions of poor visibility, strong wind and with reduced acclimatization. A worthy gift for the 20th anniversary of the company! Now we go down to the valley.