All news: 2019

Alexander Abramov, leader of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club:

Greetings from 6400 – from the ABC camp on Everest! During the day we descended from our last acclimatization rotation, after spending a night on the North Col.  Altitude 7000m.  Yesterday in the evening the weather deteriorated.  All night long our camp (all members and guides) groaned and coughed under snow. But this was not heard, because of the strong wind and heavy snow.  In the morning we were forced to punch the trail down and pull the rope out of the half-meter layer of snow.  It wasn't easy. But no one tent of our camp was tumbled down. In previous days, dozens of tents were demolished and torn down by many expeditions. Tomorrow we go down to the Base camp…

 Greetings from Elbrus!  Today, according to the program, we had a day of ascent. After looking at the weather forecast for the main and reserve days, we decided to go climbing today. Wind and snow were our companions all the way.  Eventually we reached the saddle, where the snow on the trail was about 80 cm.   Climb higher was  too dangerous.  We decided to come back. The principle is known: the mountains stood and will stand. And we will come back and climb to the top of the highest point of Europe next time.

Guide the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev:

Team Everest-2019. We have adopted for it the name of "Change the bottle!"  We'll climb up for acclimatization from Base camp to the North Col. Today there will be climb from ABC camp to the Saddle, there we will spend a night at 7000 meters. The wind is blowing very strong, which worries us.

Seven Summits, hi! Here is Dmitry Ermakov from Tiangboche. We got in pretty late last night. Rather, we were divided into two groups. Denis Abramov and half of the members reached  according the plan.    But we got a little late.  This is due to the fact that one of the members we sent home by helicopter. He's sick.

We have, in principle, all according to plan. Today we go further, to the village of Periche.

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the group: Hi, 7 summits! “The Magnificent Seven” group continues to climb. Today we  reached the village of Tagnak, at an altitude of 4270. Weather pleases! Health and conditions of  group are excellent!

Guide Viktor Ershov: Hello from the wet  Tanzania from the group of Sapsan-2019! In the morning we started from the hotel to the entrance of Kilimanjaro National Park under heavy rain.  On the way we stopped at the supermarket for batteries and repellent. Then we checked in at the Park reception.  The rain stopped and we moved to the camp of Mandara.  We got there quickly in 3 hours, but the shoes were soaked through. In the evening we passed the medical check, all the members have excellent performance and good health, and  we tasted a delicious dinner. We hope that there will be no more such heavy rains..

Hello, 7 Summits! Guides Lastochkin and Yegorov report from the States. Today we spent the second day on the rocks. Our friends climbed already quite difficult and long  routes, 5.10 category. That's just it can not be compared with our usual scale for determining the difficulty of climbing. Crack 5.10 - this is not 6A as we are used to, but simply a completely different phenomenon on the rocks. For two days we had been rubbing the skin on the back of the palms, and there was a slight fatigue. Tomorrow we plan an active day of rest, we will go to trekking to look at the famous Sandstone arches.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club climbed for acclimatization rotation on the Pastukhov Rocks. They slept in different refuges and climbed in different ways and at different times.  May Elbrus showed itself in all its glory: it is a bright sun, and the wind with snow grains, and clouds, and frost. From the Rocks of Pastukhov (4600m) climbers could see the Western and Eastern peaks and the saddle between. After admiring the magnificent panorama, all people went down to rest in the camp.

Hello from Bolivia! Our group successfully mastered the altitude of 3200 meters in La Paz and today moved to the legendary lake Titicaca. On the lake we stopped to visit the family who helped Thor Heyerdahl build boats for his expeditions. When you imagine how these boats went across the ocean, you realize that this was fantastic.

Our next target was the island of the Sun.

We took a boat to the island of the Sun. Forty minutes on the beautiful Titicaca and after a traditional lunch we walked the first small but very beautiful trekking to our hotel.

A sunset we met at the observation point with a beautiful view…

Our very long day ended with a wonderful dinner.

Today there was the last day of rest in our comfortable Base camp.   And tomorrow we go to ABC camp and then to the North Col (7000 m) of Everest.

Also today it marks exactly 20 years since the wedding of Igor and Natalia Smirnov. We congratulate them!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the group:  Hi! Group "Magnificent seven" reached the village of Tula-Khare. We passed the pass cheerfully, though there was a lot of snow. Group has a real fighting mood!

Greetings from Elbrus Region!  Today a group under the leadership of guides of Andrei Berezin and Alexander Dorozhukov climbed the slopes of Mount Cheget, visited  cafés Ay.  There they drank delicious tea and ate local pies. During the ascent, they came to the observation point, overlooking the Elbrus. It impressed many of the team members. The second group with a guide Sergey Avtomonov for acclimatization rotation climbed to a height of 3100 on the slopes of Elbrus.

Александр Абрамов, руководитель экспедиции на Эверест Клуба 7 Вершин:

Всем привет! Мы снова в базовом лагере. Вчера привыкали к высоте 6400, познакомились с командой наших шерпов и провели занятия с использованием шерпа-роуп.

Фото из АВС Эвереста 6400 м и сейчас команда отдыхает в Базовом лагере. Завтра утром 1 мая планируем выход вверх.

Пресс-релиз экспедиции

 Проект Александра Абрамова «Семь вершин за семь месяцев»

 Artem Rostovtsev, guide the 7 Summits Club:

 The team returned to the base camp. The strategy of successful ascent is the same for all: consistently rotation after rotation to get used, as far as possible, to new heights. And then rest at base camp. So the day before we got used to the height of the Advanced camp (ABC) at 6400. We also got acquainted with our team of Sherpas, and conducted training with them using fixed ropes.  And now we will observe the forecasts and may have to speed up the climb to the North Col. It is exciting!

 Our two groups started their journey in Nepal. The group led by guide Vladimir Kotlyar has already arrived in Lukla by helicopter. They're heading for the village Chutang and then to Mera peak. The second group, consisting of 18 members, gathered in Kathmandu. Members of the group will follow the route "To the base camp of Everest" under the guidance of guides Dmitry Ermakov and Denis Abramov (son of Alex Abramov).  Tomorrow, the team plans to fly to Lukla...

Alex Abramov, expedition leader of the expedition:

 Today our team rested in the Base Camp.  Official representatives of the Tibetan mountaineering federation came to us and took money for the arrangement of fixed ropes way. So far, the route is not equipped, even to the North Col. They say that avalanche danger exist.

 Life in the camp went on as usual: shower, massage, bar, visiting. The neighbors played Rugby, which was the first time here. And we were learning a new invention: “Sherpa rope”. So we called a short link between the membert and Sherpa. It was my idea to improve security. Now the responsible Sherpa will be connected to his member with a 3-meter rope.

Alex Abramov, the expedition leader from the base camp:

Yesterday our team climbed to the camp 5800 m. This is the so-called Intermediate or Middle camp. All members felt good.  It snows half a day, but this is usually in April.  We spent a night in the Middle camp and returned to the Base camp, in absolutely comfortable conditions.

Alex Abramov, the expedition leader from the base camp:

Today we climbed a little higher than the base camp and held training sessions. All members have worked well, we have mastered a new for many system climbing on fixed ropes. We checked the readiness of people and equipment.

Tomorrow early in the morning the team leaves to spend a night in camp 5800. The health of the members is excellent. The weather is bad, no visibility, periodically it snowing strong.

Alex Abramov, leader of Everest expedition  of the 7 Summits Club :

 News of my project "7 summits in 7 months". Greetings from Everest! Today we had a Puja, the consecration of the camp.  It was fun, all smeared with Jampay.  A massage salon was opened today. There was a yoga session after lunch. And at 5 PM, the bar was opened. Many guests from other expeditions come to us.  Today we sent a new caravan of cargo for the higher camps on yaks. Tomorrow we are going to acclimatize to the frozen cascades.

7 Summits, Hello! This is guide Dmitry Ermakov from Island peak. We successfully climbed Island peak. It was a very long climb up and an equally long descent. But we did!