All news: June 2019

Artem Rostovtsev, the 7 Summits Club guide:  Georgia. Kazbek. Meteorological station. 3600m. We have a plan and we stick to it. And the weather adapts to us. Today we moved from the refuge Altihut3014 to the Kazbek meteo-station. It was not enough. And after lunch we went up another 300 meters to the chapel. The extra walk was only a pleasure. Tomorrow we will walk to the glaciers, work out, deal with the equipment, so that no technical issues remain. And the next day, when we plan to reach the top, everything will pass smoothly.

A new group starting to climb Mount Kazbek under leadership of Artem Rostovtsev. Team alreary reached a new refuge Altihut3014. Everything is OK, the refuge is excellent and almost empty.

 Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

  Hello! Alexander Abramov from Alaska, from the Denali expedition.  Once again I remind, we have 10 Russian members and three American guides. Of our ten members we also have three guides of the 7 Summits Club and I, Alexander Abramov, as the head of the expedition. Today we are at a very good pace dragged loads from the camp 8000  to the camp 11000. That is, it was a height difference of almost one kilometer. We walked with heavy backpacks for four hours and forty minutes.  It's fast. Then we went down to the camp at 8000. The camp is in a beautiful place here, very warm, even hot at times. But we know that after a while all this, of course, will end. Tomorrow we will move our camp from 8000 to 11000 feet. We will also spend two more nights there.

 The weather is good, but promise deterioration.  All, Bye!

 Listen to the audio message (in Russian):

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club successfully climbed to the top of the Western Peak of Mount Elbrus in one day. All members and guides reached  the highest point. The weather was close to perfect, there was almost no wind and the air temperature was comfortable.

Congratulations!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

 We are in Talkeetna. We leave for the glacier in 30 minutes. All loads is collected and packed.

 The departure to the glacier is preceded by a mandatory briefing, during which all the mandatory rules of conduct in the National Park during the ascent to Denali are explained. The harsh laws of a liberal country!

The members of the 7 Summits Club expedition flew in a plane around Mount Denali, the purpose of their trip to Alaska. The view is stunning, breathtaking and unique.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

 Hello from Alaska!  Today  there was a long day. We met all the members of the group, solved the problems with equipment and food, visited the local cult bar. Tomorrow we fly to the glacier and  for 2 weeks we will be without Internet.

 By the way, the whole second floor of the bar is dedicated to Russia.

Today it was a day of bad weather in the area of Elbrus.  Rain and thunderstorm caught the group of "7 tigers" during the ascent to the Pastukhov Rocks. Guide Denis Abramov decided to limit this acclimatization climb by  height of 4800 meters.  And at the bottom  of the valley two new groups came on acclimatization rotation. The team led by the guide Andrei Berezin climbed the slopes of mount Cheget.  A group with guide Alexander Dorojukov climbed the slopes of mount Terskol to the waterfall Girlish braids.

 Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

 A team of 10 members flies to Alaska to climb Mount Denali. This is our last group of the season. We are the last of all in the summer of 2019.  We hope to meet no one but polar bears.

This climb will be last in the project of Alex Abramov "Seven summits in seven months"

We were happy to receive a message from Alaska that the team of our friends, on June 17, successfully reached the top of Denali, the highest point of North America! By this ascent Artem Rostovtsev and Alexander Popov completed the program of ascent to all the highest points of all continents - the program "Seven summits"!  Congratulations!

 Artem Rostovtsev is the pride of the 7 Summits Club, one of our leading guides, multi-sportsman and ultramarathon runner, a great friend.

Alexander Popov, representative of Nizhny Novgorod, he is 55 years old. He climbed all peaks with the Summits Club.

From photos of our Malaysian friend RJ Nagarajan:

Andrey Berezin, the 7 Summits Club guide: the night was snowy. By the time we reached the saddle, there was a new snowfall. While we rested, gained strength, there were doubts whether to go further.  But then it began to clear up. When we started climbing the Western summit, the weather was getting better and better. As a result, at the top we were in complete calm and almost without clouds in the sky.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club (guides Alexander Dorojukov and Andrey Berezin) reached the summit of  Elbrus with a difference of less than one hour. Congratulations!

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club completed the acclimatization cycle on the slopes of Elbrus. Today they climbed the Pastukhov Rocks, to a height of about 4800 meters.  There they met with each other and made common photos.  Guides, Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov believe that all groups are ready to storm Elbrus. Tomorrow all members will rest. The weather is great, the mood is great, the main thing – that the day of the assault was with good weather.

Two new groups arrived in the region of Elbrus. On the first day they climbed the slopes of Mount Cheget. Our guides, Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorogunov work with these groups. The weather is great, the mood is great, it all started as it should.

Salom az Tehran!

On June 15, at 11.30, “Teheran-19” team stood at the top of Demavand. We got it  in exactly 7 hours, as planned. Weather us favored,  this was the best morning over the past 3-4 days. In the upper third, we froze a little from the strong wind, but got the stored down jackets, and the problem was solved. Cloud whirl near the top turned out to be emissions of sulfur dioxide, it makes an impression! ... Well, that West wind will carry the greater part of the accumulations to the side…

 And the top!...

We chose the option to go down by  snowy slopes, using stashed crampons. It's faster and safer!

On the same day we ran to the bottom, to the mosque, and from there - to Polur at 2200 m. It was hard, but we really wanted to be down.

We spent a night in Polur, and in the morning we received traditional congratulations and certificates from the Federation of mountaineering of Iran.

And famous photos of red poppies!

Salom az Damavand! Yesterday, a group of "Tehran -19 "at 11.30 am local time climbed to the top of Mont Demavend! We're happy! Details - upon our return to Tehran.

Mahior - a local guide 

Anna

Denis

Martin

Valery

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of guides Andrei Berezin and Alexander Dorozhkov climbed today Western Peak of Mount Elbrus.

So today we have two hundred percent success!

As well the guides of the 7 Summits Club made a planned replacement station of fixed ropes on the slope of the Western summit of Elbrus.

Today we opened a new rocky route called "Alex" on Mount Shan-Kaya in Crimea.  Our guide Sasha Marinkevich and his team equipped, probably, the easiest route on, probably, the most difficult rocky face of Crimea.

The route leads  along the left ridge of the mountain. The difficult of the pitches  is up to 6A-6B. Probably an even simpler route  named "Lucy" will be equipped by the next fall. Thank you creators!

An international team named Wild Guanabana, under the leadership of guides of the 7 Summits Club Sergei Avtomonov, Denis Abramov and Boris Yegorov climbed the highest point of Europe! Now all members and guides are already in the hotel. All the heroes of today received congratulations and diplomas, then celebrated the successful ascent!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from the Crimea:

Hello dears! Team "Abramov and Korobeshko" works on contrasts. Yesterday we climbed Elbrus. And today we are already doing rock climbing in the Crimea. Today we climbed a cool new multi-pitch "Xenia" (4 pitches) on the mount Krestovaya. And tomorrow we're climbing a new route on Shan Kaya – named “Alex”. All of the upcoming holiday, Day of Russia!

Guide Valery Myasoedov from Iran.

Today, on June 11, “Tehran-19” group climbed Tochal peak with a height of 4000 m within the framework of the acclimatization program for Demavend.

The day before we went up to the shelter along a picturesque path along the Darband river. The rise was simple, three hours do not even have time to enjoy the views.

And the most important view was waiting upstairs, on the terrace of the shelter, from where, from a height of 2800 m, you can see the whole huge 13 million Tehran, playing with all the lights in the dark.

Our guide Mahior never ceases to surprise us with his care. Everything here is worked out to the last detail, not a minute of delay, cook delicious, constantly join the exquisite Iranian cuisine.

In the morning we went to the top of Tochal, on the road talking with many Iranian tourists, for whom climbing Tochal is  an usual walk.  We climbed at a good pace for 4.5 hours, which shows the serious attitude of the group for climbing Demavend.

Our Russian flag was popular. Friendly Iranians lined up to take pictures with our flag.

In the evening we were invited to dinner by our guide. And ended the evening with a brief visit to the mosque.

Thank you Mahior and Negin for a wonderful evening! Tomorrow begins the most important part of the program, we move to the town of Polur near Demavend and begin preparations for the ascent.