All news: 2021

Alex Abramov the expedition leader:

The first team of the Everest 2021 of the 7 Summits Club leaves tonight for climb of Mount Everest. We were able to save resources and sherpas. Seven participants under the leadership of Alex Abramov and 14 Sherpas will start now. Tomorrow, probably, the Lhotse team of 6 people also will go on the ascent. The second Everest team will wait for the next weather window, which may be around May 25.

Today we had training sessions with oxygen equipment. We also celebrated Ira Zisman's birthday. The main team is ready to storm the summit of Mount Everest on May 20

Climbing plan:

May 16 - Camp 1,

May 17 - Camp 2,

May 18 - Camp 3,

May 19 - Camp 4,

May 20-Summit of Mount Everest.

As I promised, this time I will try to make my 11th ascent of Mount Everest without additional oxygen. I can't promise that it will successful attempt. But I will try.

If I succeed, I will become the oldest oxygen-free climber on Everest. Now the record is 55 years old, and I'm 57. But I'm not going to make a record for the sake of a record. I'm going for myself. I want to expand the scope of my perception of the world. I'm not going to die!

I hope that my experience of 22 expeditions on 8,000 m will be enough to understand the moment when it is possible to safely abandon this complex and dangerous idea.

News from the Elbrus region. The group led by the guide Andrey Berezin yesterday climbed on the top of Elbrus. After several days of bad weather, the day of the ascent was clear and sunny. From the summit, we had a stunning view of the Main Caucasian Ridge and the surrounding area.

Alex Abramov, the expedition leader: The team of the 7 Summits Club expedition "Everest-Lhotse 2021" returned to the Everest Base Camp full of strength and health. Everyone is ready to go to climb summits even tomorrow! There is cold and lonely in the camp, with a strong wind. But the tents are chic, wind-water proof, in full height, with an insulated inner layer. Blankets are large, thick, pillows and beds with 6 legs. We also sleep with heater. Everyone is very happy to return to such tents after the cold mountain loggias.

Olga Rumyantseva, guide of the 7 Summits Club: Hello from Bolivia! Today, our group was miraculously transported to the Island of the Sun, which is located on Lake Titicaca. On the way, we took a cable car ride over the city, visited the museum and saw what Thor Heyerdahl used to build boats for his expeditions. In the evening, we watched the sunset at the highest point of the legendary Island of the Sun.

This morning we went to the Azau station, from where we went by cable car to the refuge National Park. There we were met by the hospitable Zulya and fed a delicious lunch. In the afternoon, we went to the snow and ice training sessions in the area of the former Refuge Eleven. Tomorrow we plan to climb to the Pastukhov Rocks. Group guide Andrey Berezin.

Alex Abramov, leader of the expedition: After celebrating Victory Day May 9 and congratulating Igor Smirnov on his birthday, we have finished our acclimatization process. The whole team went down to rest: in Periche, in Diboche, in Namche Bazaar. The group's summit climb is scheduled for May 15-17.

Daria Sivova, guide of the 7 Summits Club: Hello everyone from Dengboche! We haven't been in touch for the last three days, but we're doing great! The day before yesterday, we finally reached Everest Base Camp through the small villages of Lobuche and Goraksherp. The scale of the Base Camp impressed the participants: the altitude was 5365m, the mood was great, the weather was great!

At the Everest Base Camp, we split into two groups: those who stayed overnight at the Base Camp, and those who went down to Goraksherp to climb Kalapatar in the morning. Those who remained at the Base Camp met with a team of climbers on Mount Everest and Lhotse, they celebrated the Victory Day May 9. The evening ended with a festive dinner.

Yesterday we spent a night in Dengboche, today a trekking group descends to Namche Bazaar, and a group of climbers on Island Peak stays, waiting for the weather to climb it.

Guides: Sergey Avtomonov and Darya Sivova.

Today, the joined group of the 7 Summits Club climbed Western Peak of Mount Elbrus. The weather was favorable for us this time. From the top, we had an impressive view of the surrounding expanse. The group guides are Andrey Berezin and Nikita Slotin.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Nepal: Greetings from the Everest 2021 team from the slopes of Chomolungma! For the last few days, we've been completely out of touch with the outside world.  We found high-altitude acclimatization along the famous slopes of Mount Everest: the Khumbu Icefall, the Valley of Silence, the Lhotse Wall... We've been everywhere more than once. The team has fulfilled the acclimatization plan - we have a high-altitude overnight stay in the third camp (7100 m). Now we go down to rest.

News from Tanzania. The group of the 7 Summits Club climbed Mount Kilimanjaro (5895 m), all members of the team. More details will come later. Now we have to go down to 3800 in the camp Millennium.

Olga Rumyantseva, a guide of the 7 Summits Club: Hello everyone from Bolivia! Our group "Red Hot Chickas and Pepper" climbed the most beautiful six-thousandth peak, Mount Huayna Potosi. It wasn't easy, but the view from the top made up for all the difficulties. We very successfully managed to slip before the beginning of the snow storm to see these very beautiful views.

In the evening, we returned to La Paz to continue our adventures in Bolivia.

Anastasia Kuznetsova, the 7 Summits Club guide, from Tanzania: 

News from Tanzania! Day 4 on Kilimanjaro. The 7 Summits Club  group passed the test and now we go further according to plan B. That is, we pass two transitions in a day, and spend the night in the camp of Barafu at 4600 m. Next, according to the plan, the transition to the camp of Kosovo at 4800 and the assault on the summit. We started today from Barranco Camp, one of the most beautiful in Kilimanjaro. At night at the foot the city of Moshi twinkled and the stars shone, and in the morning opened a view of the entire massive of Kilimanjaro. We were able to walk along the Barranco wall in good weather and as soon as we climbed the wall, it started to drizzle. Then we enjoyed the beauty of the Karangu Valley and in the late afternoon we went up to Barafu, which means "snow camp"in Swahili. Hello and warm hugs from sunny Tanzania!

Maxim Shakirov, guide of the 7 Summits Club: Today our group went up from Deboche to Dingboche. It seems that we have already begun to get used to moving in the clouds. The obvious plus is that it's not hot! But minus: limited visibility and dampness. But... For the second evening in a row, we have spectacular sunsets!!!

Daria Sivova, the 7 Summits Club guide: Today we went from Namche Bazar to Deboche from 3400m to 3800m. On the way, we visited the Tengboche Monastery at an altitude of 3867 meters above sea level. We were very lucky: we got into the service. In the evening, the main event of the day happened. We saw Everest and Lhotse for the first time! All these days there were very foggy, and we did not see the Himalayas. But this evening, while the whole group was waiting for dinner, one of our local guides came running to us and called us outside. To say that everyone was incredibly happy is to say nothing!

Tomorrow the whole group will go to Pheriche. Wish us good weather and good luck!

Anastasia Kuznetsova, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Tanzania: News from Kilimanjaro. The third day on the route. Today it was one of the key days - the acclimatization ascent on the Lava Tower, 4600 m. In the morning, a rainbow appeared over the camp. As usual, we considered this a good sign. It was about 15 minutes, then the traditional rain began to fall, which accompanied the entire ascent and acclimatization on the Lava Tower. There, during lunch, we realized that we are higher than the second peak of Tanzania, Mount Meru (4550 m), higher than the highest peak in North Africa, Tubkal (4167 m) and comparable to the height of Mont Blanc. The descent also began in the rain, the road turned into a riverbed with many waterfalls and streams. But before entering the Baranko camp, fragments of the blue sky first appeared, and then the entire valley of insane beauty opened up as a reward for passing the stage. In the evening, at the Barranco camp at 3960 meters, we met the sunset, and at night at the foot of the Moshi lights shone and the stars shone. It was majestic! We've been waiting for this for so long!

Acclimatization takes place in the normal mode. In general, everything is fine.

Tomorrow we will have to overcome the 300-meter Barranco wall. We embrace everyone!

Maxim Shakirov, guide of the 7 Summits club: Namaste! On May 5, the group "Milk of the Yak's Wife" had a very tense and emotional day. From Namche Bazar we had to walk to Tengboche and a little lower to Deboche. We walked in the fog, under dense clouds, admiring only the still-blooming rhododendrons.  We reached the Tengboche Monastery just in time for the evening service.

Apparently, the desire of all participants to finally see the mountains, and the prayers of the monks did their job. In the rays of the setting sun, in all its glory, the beautiful Ama-Dablam was opened to our eyes!!!

The second large group of the 7 Summits Club spent this day in the Namche Bazaar area.

Dasha Sivova, guide of the 7 Summits Club:

We walked to Everest View Point 3800m. On the way, we met the incredible beauty of local birds. Acclimatization is going well: the participants also feel good. The mood is still fighting! In the evening, we walked around the city. We found a lot of interesting cafes, but one thing won everyone over: Sherpa Barista.

Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will go to Tengboche.

This is Sergey Larin, the guide and doctor of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021" from the Everest base camp. All our groups went to the final (hopefully) stage of acclimatization - the ascent to camp 3 (C3) 7300m. There is no Internet up the base camp, so Alex asked me to pass the news on. It is now noon 5.05. The first Everest group (guide Artem Rostovtsev) is in camp C2 6460m. The second Everest group (guide Alex Abramov) on the troute from C1 6060m to C2. The group Lhotse (guide Kotlyar) came to C1.

Now about the situation in Nepal. The government abruptly closed all domestic flights, including helicopter flights from 3.05. And they promise to close international flights from 6.05, that is, today at 24: 00. For us, it wasn't as sad as it could have been. Since helicopter transportation is still possible on special anti-COVID permits. For the supply of expeditions, it is possible to receive them. So we must not starve to death. Moreover, there is a stock of non-perishable products until mid-June.

During this turbulent time in Nepal, we received wonderful news from our climbers. Yesterday, Orhan Kazimov and Gennady Melnikov, under the guidance of Nepalese guide Pemba Sherpa, successfully climbed Mera Peak (6483m). They returned to the lodge this morning and plan to fly by helicopter to Kathmandu tomorrow.  We are very happy for the guys and congratulate them on their victory, especially since the ascent this year is not easy - a lot of snow and crevasses!

We pray for good weather in Nepal tomorrow morning and a window for helicopters!  For many, this is very important.

On Elbrus, the weather is bad now: fog and precipitation.  Today, three groups of the 7 Summits Club reached the refuge “National Park” and settled in cabins.  They even had to dig up one of the cabins. After lunch, all the groups simultaneously went to snow and ice training sessions at an altitude of 4200 meters. The participants worked out interaction in a group, self-arrest with an ice axe, as well as movement on inclined fixed ropes. Tomorrow all groups plan to climb the Pastukhov Rocks.

Greetings to all from Namche Bazaar from the participants and guides of the 7 Summits Club! Today, two of our groups spend the night in the Sherpa capital. A group with guides Sergey Avtomonov and Daria Sivova climbed from the bottom today.

Everyone is in a fighting mood. The journey from Phagding to Namche Bazaar took us about 6-7 hours. It was a very scenic route, especially the Hillary Bridge hung with Nepalese flags. Tomorrow we will spend the whole day in the Sherpa capital. We are waiting for good weather. To see Mount Everest!

Another group with guides Maxim Shakirov and Alexander Spirin will spend the second night in Namche Bazaar today.

Today we made a small climb for acclimatization. The weather changed as we climbed the mountains, from a clear sky to a fog and clouds . We went up to Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Center… The day turned out to be quite active, all the members of the group feel great, we are preparing for further climbing and trekking.

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Nepal: Aloha, friends! The group "Lhotse 8516" will go to bed early today, as we go out at night to acclimatization rotation to the upper camps. We contacted Alexander Abramov and Artem Rostovtsev, guides of the Everest group on the radio. They're doing fine. They send greetings from camps 6050 and 6500!