All news: 2022

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

News from Ararat, from the top! Yes, we did it - everything went great! Tired, but happy, we moved down to the base camp. We celebrate the victory with shish kebab and cognac Ararat! Climbing was not the easiest, but we did it. And most importantly, everyone came down safe and sound. Tomorrow we will finally descend into civilization.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the first camp of Lenin Peak! Today, the group made an acclimatization rotation to the peak of Yukhin 5100. We caught the Internet at the top, and then learned how to climb down the snow-covered scree! The day passed productively. Everything is the same in the camp, the Internet barely smells, but at least the food is delicious! Tomorrow we have an important day, ice training!

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

Our group continues acclimatization and preparation for the ascent on Elbrus. Today, in the preparation plans, we made an ascent to the Pastukhov Rocks. Since everything is melting a lot now, the relief of the slope is changing a lot, there are streams and rivulets on the way.  But all this is only up to 4400 meters, above, to the Pastukhov rocks, the slope has hardly changed. After two hours of climbing, the weather began to deteriorate and then all the warm clothes that we took with us to the exit came in handy: down jackets, mittens, and ski masks. After spending about an hour at an altitude of 4500 meters, we took a few photos, after which we went to the refuge, where a delicious lunch was waiting for us.  Tomorrow we rest and prepare for the ascent.  The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Dmitry Semenov.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

Everything is calm on the slopes of Ararat. Today we went up to the assault camp for 4200. On the way we met an Armenian group of about 40 people, we will go climbing together at night. In the assault camp, we had lunch, rested, adjusted the crampons and after a delicious dinner, went to the tents to sleep before the summit assault. The weather is promised to be good. We hope for the best, for panoramic views on the ascent.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorojukov reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region from the Vympel group!  Today we climbed up to the Pastukhov Rocks.  There was a slight wind blowing, the weather changed often, but in general, everything is fine. Tomorrow is a day of rest and then climbing for the summit.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the first camp of Lenin Peak, from our group. We reached the height of 4400. We were lucky with the sun, the weather is starting to please! Tomorrow we are planning an acclimatization rotation, but for now we are resting and gambling.

Sergey Avtomonov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club: A new group arrived in Ararat today and due to the delay in departure, we left for Dogubayazit immediately after the airport. We had lunch there and went to the base camp. We managed to get there before dark, at dusk. After all, we usually arrive earlier, but in general everything went fine. We had a delicious dinner and celebrated the birthday of one of the participants. Tomorrow we will go for acclimatization rotation.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Lenin Peak base camp, from our group! We got there! And apparently we are not alone... The camp is full of people, because it's snowing at the high slopes now and everyone is resting here. But if it's snowing there, what do we have? That's right, it's raining!!! Tomorrow we will try to catch the weather before lunch and go to the crest of Petrovsky Peak for acclimatization.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorojukov reports from the Elbrus region:

A new group has begun its acclimatization in the Elbrus region. Everything, as always, the slopes of Cheget, views, mountains. The weather is great, even a little hot. The real summer in the mountains has come.

 Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:

Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan.  Days 26-28. July 26-28. Via Gondogora Pass. Return to civilization. Part 2.

By 9-10 in the morning we came to the Huspang camp at 4600 in a picturesque place on the green near the lake. Then we had a snack, took a break and decided to go to the Saicho camp (3500). But instead of the promised 5-6 hours, we went 7-8 in the end.  But in places it was very picturesque: first, a glacier with ice-mushrooms, cracks and waterfalls; then a side moraine with grass and flowers. Then came herds of cows, goats and sheep. At some point, the Masherbrum (K1) suddenly opened - wow, a terrible mountain - beautiful, but it's scary to imagine how to climb there.

 At the end, almost Baltic landscapes began - sandy areas among coniferous forests (thuja, juniper) - aromatherapy is real!!!!

Closer to 6 pm we came to the camp. It feels like there was a cool campsite here, but during the recent heavy rains and floods on July 7, most of the camp was washed away by mudslides…

We had a quick dinner and soon went to bed to the sound of the beginning rain.

 In the morning, in a couple of hours, along a convenient (albeit blurred by floods) scenic trail, we moved to the village of Khushe. Everything is over – then Jeeps, civilization.

An hour later, we were visiting our chef Ibragim in the neighboring village of Kande (his sixth child was born just 3 weeks ago while he was in the exp).

We looked at the house of a real Pakistani, or rather a Baltistani - everything is very functional, unfurnished, women and men live in different rooms, pets on the first floor, people on the second. We tried real Baltistan tea. At first I thought that this tea was pink because of the Himalayan salt. By the way, there is a huge salt mine in Pakistan, one of the largest in the world. But it turned out that spices give this color to tea…

Hushe is also famous for the fact that there are a lot of snow leopards in these places. Even tours are arranged here specifically to watch at these animals.

An hour later we were at the palace. Here Serena also did her best - they made a hotel out of a hundred-ring palace in the town of Kaplu. And around - apricot orchards. We pick and eat apricots, recover, get vitamins.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:
Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan. Days 26-28. July 26-28. Gondogora Pass. Return to civilization. Part 1.
After resting in BC on July 24 and waiting for Israfil to return from Broad Peak, we planned to leave BC on the morning of July 26. We decided to go back not along the classics (as we were climbing up), but along a shorter path - through the Gondogora La pass. These are two overnight stays instead of 3-4 on the way, but tougher.

On the first day of July 26, we walked from BC Broad Peak 3 hours back to Concordia. And it's almost 6 hours from Concordia to Ali Camp, already in another gorge. We spent the night in Ali Camp at an altitude of 5000 m in an interesting place - under a rock near a glacial lake. And at one o'clock in the morning on July 27, we stormed the Gondogora pass in full uniform - cats, gazebos with zhumars and self-insurance, helmets. However, a third of the people went without it and even managed to pass the pass.

Two hours - approach under the fixed ropes with the crossing of the glacier. Two hours on the fixed ropes - and we are at the pass. There are stunning views here - K2, Broad, all Gasherbrums, in the other direction - Leila Peak and the entire Khushe gorge.
At the highest point we met Vova Kotlyar - he was walking with his SST group along the same route. We took a photo (Vova took timelaps) and began the descent. More precisely, at first we were horrified when we saw where and how to go down - steep and very long abseiling on the scree slope. While we were mentally preparing for the descent, just then a huge avalanche descended - at a fairly safe distance from us, but still impressed.
We descended normally, only a couple of times large stones came down from above, but it worked out.

Gondogoro La is a pass that we were a little afraid of (they tell us everything about it), but which we really wanted to pass.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
News of the Elbrus region from the group "Creative ermines". Early this morning, our group in full force climbed to the top of Elbrus. From there we had amazing views, as the weather was perfect today: calm and clear. The entire Main Caucasian Ridge, the Northern Elbrus region, as well as Georgia were visible. Such a beautiful morning today we met at the summit of Elbrus. The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Alexey Lonchinsky.

A Guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorojukov reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region from the group "Hichiny and Wine"! Today we did it! The top of Europe! The weather was gorgeous, the dawn was just fire! One member climbed even two Summits. We're already down the valley.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:
News from the group "Gopher Hunters"! Hooray, we have climbed on the summit of Ararat! The weather was just fine, light wind and sun. The hunt was a success! All the hunters who went out to climb, climbed to the top.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:
Today, the "gopher hunters", saddled with passing horses, moved up to the assault camp. The weather is great, it's warm, there is almost no wind. We plan to go to the summit at night. And check for gophers on top!

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
News of the Elbrus region. The group "Creative Ermines", as planned yesterday, went to the Pastukhov Rocks. The weather this season does not please us with clear days. Therefore, as always, we took the necessary amount of warm clothes. So, we went to acclimatize to the Pastukhov Rocks. In 3 hours we gained more than 800 meters vertically. The wind was blowing with grits above. Ski masks, buffs and warm gloves came in handy here. Tomorrow we rest. According to the plan, we are going to climb the summit on Friday. The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Alexey Lonchinsky.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:
Greetings to all from the group "Gopher Hunters"! Today we went up to the assault camp at 4200. Hunting ground squirrels again failed, but we got the necessary acclimatization. We are preparing for the next hike, already on the top of Ararat!

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
News from the Elbrus region. The group "Creative stoats". Today we went up to the refuge National Park. We settled in comfortable houses, after which we went to snow and ice classes. Where the band members mastered self-arresting with an ice axe and moving in crampons on snowy slopes. Tomorrow we are going make rotation to the Pastukhov Rocks. The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Alexey Lonchinsky.

By 7 pm, Alex came down to Camp 2 completely tired. It turned out that he took an active part in the descent of the victim. Chileans passing by, also exhausted to the limit, thanked Alex and called him their teacher.
Alex said he was wildly tired and wanted to stay overnight at Camp 2. I began to persuade him to go down to the BC, assuring him that in 2-3 hours we would do it even in the dark. As a result, for an hour and a half in the dark, we went down to Camp 1 and realized that there was no strength to go further and it was dangerous (the lower part breaks through most of all with stones).
In general, we spent the night in Camp 1 and went down to BC early in the morning on July 23. There were also enough adventures on the way - the ropes were half worn out, the station hooks fell out. And a suitcase stone whistled a meter away from Sasha (Sasha immediately remembered the story on Aconcagua with a girl whose leg was torn off by a stone). Fragments of this stone also reached me, but they hit the backpack and not much…
By breakfast we were already in the camp. Warm and cozy. By the evening of that day, George also went down to the base, accompanied by heroic Latin American climbers and several porters whom Akbar sent up.
In the evening, a festive dinner and barbecue were arranged in honor of the climbers and the miraculous rescue. Everything was fine. Only one thing worried - how was Israfil going alone to the top that night? It seems like no one else was going to storm this night...
P.S. - this morning on July 25, Israfil was already in BL - he came down late last night!!!
July 25. Today we went to BC K2 to say goodbye (tomorrow we go down through Gondogora Pass). We congratulated Volodya Kotlyar on the summit of K2, listened to his stories about this difficult ascent. Stones are flying, stones… He was going to Gasherbrum-2 after Chogori, but it didn't seem to work out.... We'll probably go down together tomorrow. We talked to Nims and congratulated him on the successful ascent of his entire team to K2. They not only climbed in, but also shot a movie! We met Dava, the head of SST in our T-shirt (the three of them - three brothers - went to Antarctica with us this year) - it's nice. They also have a large part of the team going to the top of K2. We caught a glimpse of Harila - she was climbing K2 on the same day with Vova. Now she will go to the Broad and Gasherbrums - the Iron lady!
The weather has deteriorated sharply today. Most of the expeditions are being curtailed. Good luck and patience to those who still continue their ascents here!
Well, we ... into the hustle and bustle of cities and traffic....
Until the future mountain!

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region
News of the Elbrus region. The group "Creative Ermines" has started acclimatization and preparation for the ascent of Elbrus. Today we climbed the slope of Cheget, to the first station of the cable car. Our way passed along a picturesque forest trail, which smoothly moved from the forest zone to the alpine meadows. After spending some time in the Ai cafe, we returned to the hotel where we had lunch. After that, the participants went to rent the equipment we needed. Tomorrow we go up to the refuge National Park. The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Alexey Lonchinsky.