All news: 2022

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:
Greetings to all from the slopes of Ararat! Our climbing program started today, we got to the base camp. In good sunny weather, we walked a little up. Now we are just resting at the base camp. We were well fed and placed in tents. Tomorrow we are going to acclimatize to the assault camp!

Exploration on Broad Peak, Pakistan. Days 19-23. July 19-23. Part 3
About 2-3 nights (when Alex and I were trying to get out) at an altitude of 7800-7900, Canadian Andy, going to the assault, met a Romanian who had already spent the second night at this altitude. Andy gave him all his water and food and stopped his own ascent. Around 4 am, almost at the same height, the Romanian was discovered by Israfil Ashurli and a Chilean couple. As a result, Israfil decided to lower the Romanian and stop his attempt to climb. Israfil has long impressed me with his amazing human qualities - willingness to help, deep decency and correctness in everything. As a result, Israfil quite successfully lowered the Romanian alone to a height of 7300-7400. At 10 in the morning, he informed us that he was letting George down, but when Sasha asked if he needed help, he said that he didn't and that they would be at the camp in an hour or two. Then the connection disappeared.
At about 15.00, an exhausted Israfil came to Camp 3 and said that he had been fighting with a Romanian for the last 5-6 hours - he tried to give oxygen, which was brought from below, but he refused. I tried to lower the victim further, but he fell into an inadequate state. In general, the story began to look a little like the "Miracle on Everest" - the case of Lincoln Hall in 2006 in our Everest expedition.
At this point, Jorge from Chile stayed with George, but he, too, is already at the limit. I need help.
Alex and I said we were ready to go. To be honest, I thought that a group of high-altitude porters and strong climbers would gather now. But in the end it turned out that only three people were ready to go - Alex, Magda and I (a Polish climber, by the way, who attempted an assault that night and therefore tired). The rest were absolutely nothing after the assault attempt
Magda delighted me - she ran ahead to help an unknown climber, although she was very tired herself. I ran after her, or rather we crawled down the slope like snails. But stubbornly. Alex followed me out a little later. An hour later, the weather suddenly deteriorated sharply - a strong cold wind blew, a blizzard began. I realized that I had taken the rescue lightly - I dressed lightly (we went out at 16.00, when it was still hot).
Days 19-23. July 19-23. Part 4
Two hours later, two figures appeared on the slope. The closest to me was Jorge, who had already spent 5-6 hours with a Romanian and was very tired. When I got to the Romanian, I gave him some water and talked to him for a while. Soon Alex came up and we somehow lifted George to his feet and began to lead him down, he walked a little and sat down. Okay, Jorge came over and started helping too. Together with Alex, they very slowly pulled off the Romanian. Soon another Chilean came up from below. The three of them descended a little faster. I walked ahead and helped with fixed ropes, sometimes gave George tea. He refused Dex and oxygen …
In general, this story with the descent lasted for 3 hours. Already in the dark we came to the camp, where other Chileans warmly welcomed us, put the Romanian in a tent and thanked us for a long time for the descent of their comrade…
In this story, I was struck by the behavior of Chileans. In principle, George was not their friend, but they bought a tour from the same company and sat at the same table with him in BC. However, they did everything to save him.
By the way, the story didn't end there.
It is clear that we did not go on any ascent that night. And going to the rescue, I already understood that I was unlikely to have the strength to storm. In the morning Israfil came to us to talk about plans. He was determined to try again. We, after a little consultation, refused. I definitely did not feel the strength in myself, and the motivation somehow disappeared… We gave Israfil the leftovers of food and snacks, deciding that we would descend in a few hours and without food, and around 11 a.m. we began the descent.
And at the same time, a group of Chileans undertook to lower the Romanian further - the helicopter does not fly at such a height.
After seeing that the Romanian was being lowered by 5-6 men, I decided that I had nothing to push there and went ahead. After 2 hours I was already in Camp 2. I had a timid hope that Alex would not become a hero again - yesterday's rescues are enough, and he will soon catch up with me. But, of course, this did not happen. 2 hours passed, I heated the water, then two more, three more ... all hopes for a descent to the BC and a comfortable overnight melted.

Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
All hola from the group "All on the 215th" from the base camp of Lenin Peak. On July 23, the full team in 12-13 hours made an ascent to a height of 7134 meters, reaching the top, and in the evening went down to camp 3! On July 24, we went down to camp 1 and today we are in the base, going to Osh. The route is incredibly beautiful, all the members coped! It was hard, but we did it! The weather was perfect, the mountain let to climb and let go in peace. Love the mountains, appreciate the mountains, go to the mountains and treat them with respect, then you will succeed! Peace, goodness and mountains to all!!! Now we have a well-deserved rest! Guide Nikita Slotin.

Exploration on Broad Peak, Pakistan. Days 19-23. July 19-23. Part 1. So, on July 19, Alex and I started from the BС (4800) at about 2.30 am. We also went straight up to the Camp 2 (6000). It took about 7-8 hours. After 10 a.m. we were already in the camp in our RedFox tent. It was unbearably hot during the day. We decided to leave our downy half-suits in Camp 2 (mistake! There are no warm eight-thousandths). By evening, a rumor had spread through the camp that a trio of climbers had fallen on the crest of Broad Peak. Then, however, it turned out that one person, an Englishman, broke down and fell towards China…

On July 20, we went out early so as not to walk in the heat - around 4 am. In 5 hours we reached Camp 3 (7000). This part of the way technically seemed easier to me than the previous - also quite steep fix-ropes sections, but more in the snow. But even here the camp is on a steep slope - it is dangerous to walk between the tents without crampons. On the way we met Polish climbers from our camp - they were already descending after a successful ascent the previous day. In general, many descenders said that it was better not to climb - there are no fixed ropes after the couloir (7800) this year + very dangerous cornices and a dangerous long summit ridge.
In the camp we met Israfil, who was preparing for the ascent next night. And Saulius, who went from the top, but it took him more than 26 hours (he says he hardly ate or drank and was very weak on the descent). On average, climbers go to the summit of Broad Peak from camp 3 to camp 3 in 16-24 hours. For comparison, on Everest, they go from the assault camp to the assault camp for 8-12 hours, but they do not stay in the assault camp, but descend to approximately 6400. Immediately, almost everyone barely crawls after the summit to the assault and spends the night here again.

They usually go out to start at 7-10 pm. Alex and I decided to go out around midnight, hoping for oxygen. We wanted to do some kind of "feint with our ears" - we arrived late and made only one acclimatization rotation up to 6000 (hoping that the lack of acclimatization could cover oxygen). All the others made 2-3 rotation exits with overnight stays at 7000 m .
We went to bed around 19.00. And then it began…

As soon as I fell asleep a little, a terrible delirium began, from which I immediately woke up and was already afraid to fall asleep again, so as not to fall back into this horror with a split or even a personality disorder. After all, the swelling of the brain caught up with me. Not surprising - the first night at 7000, and before that only one for 6000 is not enough for me.
At midnight, the alarm clock rang. I didn't want to eat at all, only I was tormented by an unbearable thirst. Somehow I got ready - it seems like it took forever. We took two oxygen cylinders, turned on 2 liters and went. Backpacks turned out to be 10 kg each. But mine seemed terribly heavy to me. I could barely walk. After about 40 minutes, I told Sasha that I wouldn't get there in this state. Since we initially agreed that if one turns, then the second one too, Sasha did not try to persuade me much and also turned down with me.
What happiness it was to lie down in a warm sleeping bag, turn on oxygen and sleep until the morning, until the sun at 9 o'clock lit up the tent. Breakfast also seemed divine to me.
In general, I felt good. To consolidate the result, I walked above 200-300 meters - my health and speed are normal. After going down, I discussed my plans with Sasha. We decided to make a new attempt tonight.

Three groups of the 7 Summits Club successfully reached the Western Peak of Mount Elbrus and safely descended. Guides worked with the groups: Andrey Berezin, Alexander Dorojukov, Dmitry Semenov and Dmitry Lazarev. The weather was sunny, the wind near the top was quite strong, but it was not an insurmountable obstacle. All the participants are happy, everyone went down to the hotel on the same day.

Today the weather on Elbrus was very bad, damp, cold, no visibility. This did not prevent three groups of the 7 Summits Club from climbing the Pastukhov Rocks. Thus, they completed the acclimatization rotation. They have a day of rest ahead of them and then an assault on the summit. We hope that the weather will improve by then.

Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan: Greetings to all from Camp 1 of Lenin Peak! Another day of rest in the camp! At night we admire the stars and prepare to go out to storm the summit.
Our plan is as follows: July 21: Camp 2, July 22: Camp 3, July 23: summit day.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club began acclimatization rotation from the exit to the slopes of Mount Cheget.  Tomorrow the groups will climb to the refuge National Park, where they will continue to acclimatize and prepare for the ascent. Guides: Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov.

Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings to all from the slightly tired but satisfied group from the first camp of Lenin Peak! Yesterday we climbed to the peak of Razdelnaya 6140 m and for better acclimatization spent a night in the third camp, while spending the most wonderful sunset in my mountain memory! Emotions were off the scale even for me!!! Today we went down to the first camp, having overcome the very 100 meters of fixed ropes down, feeling like real climbers who had ice piton pulled out! Everyone is healthy, happy, we are starting the main part of the program - a two-day rest. While everything is going according to plan, the weather is pleasing, we are basking in the sun! Tomorrow we are planning an easy weekend walk! It's July 18 and we don't know what's going on in the world, how good it is! All the best, follow the news!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:

Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan. Days 14-18. July 14-18. The days of rest in the BC Broad Peak quickly passed after our acclimatization rotation. At first, the weather was just disgusting - snow, rain, fog. Yesterday (July 17) the weather improved and many climbers went to the upper camps with the hope of an assault in the coming days.
During the rest, we managed to walk under Pastor Peak in the side gorge, visited BC of K2 a couple of times, met Kotlyar, Nims, Garrett Madison. Israfil and Saulius with the Polish guys went to C2 Broad Peak last night. Today they have to reach C3 and tonight (Monday to Tuesday) - to storm the summit. We are leaving the base tonight, tomorrow July 19 - C2, the day after tomorrow July 20 - C3, July 21 - according to our plan, we are going to storm Broad Peak.

I walked today to BC of K2. It's about an hour up the glacier from our BC Broad Peak. Firstly, the views are amazing. Just as I was approaching the camp, the clouds began to disperse and Chogori appeared in all its glory. Secondly, the K2 camp site itself is very beautiful, there are a lot of Nepalese companies and as a result - a lot of stupas with flags (it can be seen that pujas were held). And thirdly, while I was wandering around the camps, Nims noticed me and invited me to visit. The elitexped camp is really the best here - a whole cozy town of large sleeping tents, several common tents, kitchens, flags and logos of Nims and his company everywhere. Even cups in the dining room with personalized logos.

Like in our camp, everyone is waiting for the weather. In a couple of days, according to the forecast, there will be an improvement. July 19-20-21 are the approximate summit days for K2 and Broad Peak.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Nikita Slotin from the slopes of Lenin Peak:

Hello everyone from the height of 5700!  Yesterday our group went up to the Second camp! At first there was a difficult section of the 100-meter fixed ropes, where the participants had to exert all their strength. Then, on the "Frying Pan", we walked hard in the heat and got to the camp for lunch! We were greeted by a comfortable camp, with a large dome tent as a dining room. Now we are already moving to the peak of Razdelnaya! The strongest participants are ahead, the girls and I are having fun slowly, dancing, going up, admiring the butterflies flying by.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
The group "Fighting snails" climbed Mount Elbrus. The weather forecast, as always, did not let us down: they promised 40-45 km/h along the top. And even added a bonus of +10 km/h. As a result, the photos were taken sitting at the top. Then go down and rest.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
Greetings from the Elbrus region from the group "Beautiful"! Today was the most responsible day. We did it! The weather forecast was not great, but our team coped. The top of Elbrus was seen, felt, sat on it. In general, everything is fine with us, we are already at the hotel, resting.

Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings to all from the camp-1 Lenin Peak! Today we conducted an important part of the program, namely ice training! We walked with ropes on the glacier, learned how to overcome cracks, climb on fixed ropes with jumars and descend on a "glass". The weather is sunny. Tomorrow we plan to go to the second camp.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Today is July 15th. Broad Peak. Pakistan. 8056 m . Having successfully carried out acclimatization, we went down from Camp 2 to Base Camp on the 13th. It is on the 13th that Volodya Kotlyar, who performs a secret mission on K2, has a birthday. Two base camps, Broad Peak and K2, came to congratulate him. He turned 34 years old. The limit of youth that he had set for himself. Now adult life begins. Volodya, a great voyage for a big ship!
The weather in Pakistan does not allow us to think about the future yet. All the slopes were covered with snow. The snow has fallen even in BC. We are all sitting in tents. We read books, watch movies, make love. Who has what opportunities....

News of the Elbrus region. Two groups of the 7 Summits Club with guides Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov made an acclimatization rotation to the Pastukhov Rocks, up to a height of 4500 meters. Now in the Elbrus region there is an active melting of snow cover, which is associated with an increase in air temperature. And because of this, there is both the "snow porridge" and the streams on the path to the Pastukhov rocks. We have to try to follow in the footsteps of previously passed groups. The weather also was not the best, a strong wind was blowing above 4300, so everyone climbed to the lower rocks of Pastukhov at a height of 4500-4600, where they spent about 20 minutes. Tomorrow the groups are resting and preparing for the summit assault.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
There is no Internet here, neither satellite nor mobile. The whole sky is overcast. It's raining. Luda and I spent a night in Camp 2. And today, under the roar of avalanches and the howling of blizzards, we were able to descend to the base camp of Broad Peak. Today is July 13th. Since July 17th, everyone here expects good weather. I have a different opinion. The weather in Pakistan this year is not encouraging. There are still no fixed ropes to the top of Broad Peak. And on K2 in general, ropes were hung only up to camp 3.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club with guides Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov continued acclimatization already on the slopes of Mount Elbrus. The participants and guides first moved by cable car the shelter National Park, then continued their preparations for the ascent. In the afternoon, they held snow and ice classes, where they mastered the skills of self-rarrest with an ice pick and moving in various ways in crampons. Tomorrow everyone goes to the Pastukhov Rocks.

Guide Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings from the group "All on 215" from the Lenin Peak base camp! Today there was a sunny but extremely windy day! During a walk to the crest of Petrovsky Peak, everyone was blown away! But this did not prevent us from climbing to a height of 4018 meters, admiring the still surviving hanging glaciers and taking beautiful photos. For tomorrow, the Internet does not draw rosy weather, but we will move to the first camp! Soon there will be no normal communication...

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "All on 215"!  We are here and we are happy!  Along the way, we admired marmots carrying their mortal carcasses into their burrows... We saw the northern slope of the mountain, were pleasantly stunned by the views and went to dinner.  We are well placed in comfortable large tents, picked up the missing equipment and smoothly depart... Not what you thought, let's go to rest! It's windy in the camp. Tomorrow, according to the plan, an acclimatization rotation to the crest of Petrovsky Peak at 4000.