All news: June 2022

 Valery Myasoedov, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Iran:

The fourth day of the program initially did not seem difficult. Not the earliest rise, slept off, for the first time, as they say, took a breath. Breakfast in one of the restaurants of Larijan, a leisurely transfer to Gusfand-Saro, or also this place is called a Mosque. On the way, a fantastic photo shoot of Svetlana against the background of a Demavend. A short rest, loading things on mules and getting out to Borgoh-e Sevvom. This is the last shelter on the route, from where all already go to the mountain. We gained 1200 meters at a good pace, reached the camp in less than 4.5 hours. The conditions in the camp are Spartan, but we managed to get the best "rooms". Surprisingly, in such conditions, our Iranian friends manage to cook amazingly, the highest class!

Today we have a very simple day in terms of load, we made an acclimatization exit for 400 meters along the assault trail in the direction of the summit, but a very important day for rest and morale for tomorrow. And tomorrow we have an assault on the summit of Demavend. Wish us good luck!

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region from the group "Zephyr ". We went to the Pastukhov Rocks.  It was very warm, the down jackets that we took with us were not useful to us that day. In the mountains, the weather is changeable, especially with the climb. We went up in a fairly good pace, and also quickly descended to the refuge National Park. According to the plan, we have an ascent on Friday.  We will prepare and rest.

While Valery Myasoedov's group is acclimatizing and gathering strength before storming the summit, Alexander Slesarev and Olga Poriyadochnykh are completing the program. Today they climbed to the top of the highest volcano in Asia - Damavand (5671 m). Congratulations with the Summit! It was unforgettable!

A Guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov, from Turkey:

Today we went to the assault camp for acclimatization.  There was sun, snow and fog, though without rain.  The weather in general was not pleasant, but the forecast promises good conditions for the next few days. Tomorrow we will move to the assault camp already for summit climbing. It feels like all the participants are in good enough shape to go to the top. Let's hope for good weather and great views on the ascent!

Andrey Berezin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

Today is a scheduled day on the cable car, so we took an early flight, until 9 am. The weather in the morning was overcast and it was snowing.  By lunchtime, the wind and snowfall had stopped.  Meanwhile, we went to a mini-acclimatization under the shelter Diesel Hut.  There we conducted snow and ice classes, mastered the technique of self-arrest with an ice pick, climbing in crampons, and also learned how to fasten on inclined fixed ropes. There was lunch after class.  Now the group is resting and gaining strength before tomorrow's ascent to the Pastukhov Rocks.

A Guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov, from Turkey:

Greetings to all from the slopes of the holy Mount Ararat.  We've had a long day today. First we left the city of Van and drove along the shore of the lake of the same name towards the city of Dogubayazit. Then we changed the car there.  Another 30 minutes on a dirt road and the first ascent in our program began, in the form of a move to the base camp. We reached it  in an average pace - of 4 hours. Everyone feels good. Tomorrow we continue acclimatization and go to the upper camp at 4100.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region from the group "Zephyr". Yesterday, a new group of climbers arrived, which began to prepare for the ascent on Elbrus.  Today we went up to the first station of the cable car on Mount Cheget, where we spent some time, so useful for acclimatization, in the Ai cafe.  After lunch, we went for a rental, for the equipment necessary for climbing.  Tomorrow we will go to the refuge National Park, where we will continue to acclimatize and prepare for the ascent. 

Valery Myasoedov, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Iran:

The first team for the Damavand of the 2022 season has arrived in Tehran! Even a night flight and an early morning arrival cannot reduce the emotional mood for the long-awaited meeting with Iran! Well, Aeroflot, as always, is on top!.. Already at 6 a.m., Tehran begins to seethe, 15 million inhabitants, almost like in Moscow... A short rest at the hotel and departure for an excursion: a visit to Golestan, literally translated as the "palace of roses", the residence of several dynasties of rulers of Iran and, of course, acquaintance with Iranian cuisine. Dizi-e Sangi - stewed meat with vegetables in a stone pot.  Everyone appreciated and admired the delicious dish with the original serving. Sharbat is also a traditional drink, with a bunch of herbs and additives, but non-alcoholic, with alcohol in Iran in any way, is prohibited...

 Our organisms demanded rest, returned to the hotel, regained their senses, and in the evening went to a gala dinner at the Milod Tower. It is one of the highest towers in the world, with a rotating restaurant at an altitude of almost 300 m. The tower itself is amazing, and the panorama of evening Tehran, and the wonderful cuisine for every taste. There are a lot of local visitors, they are all so elegant and beautiful, it is clear that this is an event for them, to visit the famous landmark. And what kind of tea with saffron is there!..

The 7 Summits Club Guide Sergey Avtomonov, from Turkey: Greetings to all from the glorious city of Van!  Today begins the first program of the 7 Summits Club on Ararat this year. The day turned out to be calm, all the participants flew to the city of Van normally. We rested a little after the flight, discussed plans for the next few days and went to rest. Tomorrow will be a difficult day, we go to the base camp.

  Yesterday, a big meeting of friends of the 7 Summits Club took place in the lecture hall of the Sports Marathon Travelers Club.  The program included the presentation of Alexander Abramov's book "The Height-Altitude  Gene" and the first ever presentation of orders “Seven Summits”.  The hall was crowded, and everyone showed great interest in what was happening "on stage".  The procedure for awarding orders has turned into a solemn presentation of outstanding personalities, such are the heroes, the climbers of all "Seven Summits".   

 The Order of the Seven Summits is an honorary award to climbers who have climbed the highest peaks of all seven continents of our planet. In total, there are almost half a thousand people who have completed it.  There are already about fifty of them in the list of Russians. The first number in it is the famous Russian traveler Fyodor Konyukhov, who completed the program back in 1997.

  The presentation of the badge of honor, which is called the order, is a long-standing idea of the president of the 7 Summits Club company, Alexander Abramov, who, by the way, has already completed the program three times. Finally, the idea that the climbers of the "SevenSummits" are worthy of a separate award has been brought to life.  And the heroes who have passed through all continents, climbed to their highest peaks, received a beautiful order!  The 7 Summits Club plans to make the solemn procedure of awarding the Seven Summits Orders traditional. After all, the award can only be received in person, not everyone could be in Moscow that evening. Well, we are waiting for new heroes, the mountains are calling and waiting for us!

 The list of climbers who received the order (themselves or through family representatives):

Konyukhov Fyodor

Moskalev Dmitry

Abramov Alexander

Korobeshko Lyudmila

Bobok Victor

Ashurli Israfil

Larin Sergey

Kofanov Sergey  

Prinzyuk Igor

Turovsky Mikhail

Podolyan Andrey

Sokov Dmitry

Simonovich Vitaly

Filkov Andrey

Kadochin Igor

Dudko Sergey

Krasnov Dmitry

Dmitriev Sergey

Kravt Evgeny

Bautin Alexey

Balakin Alexey

Tertychny Alexander

Tertychny Dmitry

Sadetsky George

Belkovich Vladimir

Semeshkin Kirill

Lachkarev Vladislav

Popov  Alexander

Rostovtsev Artem

Zisman Irina

Gurgov Yuri.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club have reached the top of Mount Elbrus today. Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov were the guides. The weather in the morning was fine, there was no wind and it was clear. The participants admired the panorama of the Caucasus.  The groups went down to the hotel after lunch, when the weather had already begun to deteriorate.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club have completed the acclimatization rotation. They climbed the slopes of Mount Elbrus almost to the Pastukhov Rocks. Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov work as guides. Tomorrow, according to the plan, there will be a day of rest. And the weather permitting, the summit will be stormed on Friday.

The guides of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov went out today with their groups on the slopes of Elbrus. The participants have risen to about the level of the former Refuge Eleven. There, classes were held on the technique of climbing in the snow, in particular, self-arrest techniques were studied. The groups settled in comfortable huts of the National Park Refuge and will continue to work according to plan.

The Order of the Seven Summits is an honorary award for climbers on the highest peaks of all continents. Alexander Abramov's long-standing idea has finally been realized. And the heroes who have passed through all continents, who have climbed on their highest peaks, will receive an honorary award – a beautiful order! Those who will be able to be in Moscow on June 9 will receive it personally during the ceremonial part of the evening meeting of friends of the 7 Summits Club. It will start at 19 o'clock in the lecture hall of the Sports Marathon Travelers Club.  The Order will be awarded to Russian citizens for the time being. However, exceptions are possible. We remind you that another important event of the evening will be the presentation of Alexander Abramov's book "The High-Altitude Gene". As well as the accompanying autograph session.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club began acclimatization rotation from the exit to the slopes of Mount Cheget. Summer has come to the area of Elbrus.  The slopes are getting rid of snow, the flowers are already blooming.   Tomorrow the groups will climb to the refuge National Park, where they will continue to acclimatize and prepare for the ascent. Guides: Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov.

Today we were let down by the forecast, which promised good conditions before lunch. But our forces did not let us down. We had to climb in harsh conditions. Despite the gusty wind and lack of visibility, we reached the Western Peak at a good athletic pace. We also descended very quickly.  Now we are at the hotel and celebrating the successful ascent. The group's guide Andrey Berezin.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club have completed the acclimatization rotation. They climbed the slopes of Mount Elbrus almost to the Pastukhov Rocks. Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorozhukov work as guides. Tomorrow, according to the plan, there will be a day of rest. And the weather permitting, the summit will be stormed on Friday.

The night at the camp 2 was a bit hectic.

The first time I woke up at about ten o'clock in the evening from the fact that B. was hopelessly crying out in the next tent:

- Oxygen! Bring me oxygen! Will someone eventually bring me oxygen?!

And from another nearby tent, Dr. Larin answered melancholically:

- Yes, I'm coming, I'm coming. I'm already putting on my shoes.

Then all night I woke up from a terrible thirst, it's good that there were water supplies at hand as usual. And also from unpleasant sensations in the throat, which began the day before and now turned into some kind of sleep-disturbing cough.

In general, so-so night.

By the morning it turned out that B., who took off his glasses every now and then during the descent, burned his eyes and now sees nothing. A helicopter was about to arrive for him.

The rest of the members of the Khumbu Walking Club gradually woke up and crawled out of the tents.

Whole text is in Russian. Detailed description of the ascent on Everest…