All news: July 2022

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:

Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan. Days 14-18. July 14-18. The days of rest in the BC Broad Peak quickly passed after our acclimatization rotation. At first, the weather was just disgusting - snow, rain, fog. Yesterday (July 17) the weather improved and many climbers went to the upper camps with the hope of an assault in the coming days.
During the rest, we managed to walk under Pastor Peak in the side gorge, visited BC of K2 a couple of times, met Kotlyar, Nims, Garrett Madison. Israfil and Saulius with the Polish guys went to C2 Broad Peak last night. Today they have to reach C3 and tonight (Monday to Tuesday) - to storm the summit. We are leaving the base tonight, tomorrow July 19 - C2, the day after tomorrow July 20 - C3, July 21 - according to our plan, we are going to storm Broad Peak.

I walked today to BC of K2. It's about an hour up the glacier from our BC Broad Peak. Firstly, the views are amazing. Just as I was approaching the camp, the clouds began to disperse and Chogori appeared in all its glory. Secondly, the K2 camp site itself is very beautiful, there are a lot of Nepalese companies and as a result - a lot of stupas with flags (it can be seen that pujas were held). And thirdly, while I was wandering around the camps, Nims noticed me and invited me to visit. The elitexped camp is really the best here - a whole cozy town of large sleeping tents, several common tents, kitchens, flags and logos of Nims and his company everywhere. Even cups in the dining room with personalized logos.

Like in our camp, everyone is waiting for the weather. In a couple of days, according to the forecast, there will be an improvement. July 19-20-21 are the approximate summit days for K2 and Broad Peak.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Nikita Slotin from the slopes of Lenin Peak:

Hello everyone from the height of 5700!  Yesterday our group went up to the Second camp! At first there was a difficult section of the 100-meter fixed ropes, where the participants had to exert all their strength. Then, on the "Frying Pan", we walked hard in the heat and got to the camp for lunch! We were greeted by a comfortable camp, with a large dome tent as a dining room. Now we are already moving to the peak of Razdelnaya! The strongest participants are ahead, the girls and I are having fun slowly, dancing, going up, admiring the butterflies flying by.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
The group "Fighting snails" climbed Mount Elbrus. The weather forecast, as always, did not let us down: they promised 40-45 km/h along the top. And even added a bonus of +10 km/h. As a result, the photos were taken sitting at the top. Then go down and rest.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
Greetings from the Elbrus region from the group "Beautiful"! Today was the most responsible day. We did it! The weather forecast was not great, but our team coped. The top of Elbrus was seen, felt, sat on it. In general, everything is fine with us, we are already at the hotel, resting.

Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings to all from the camp-1 Lenin Peak! Today we conducted an important part of the program, namely ice training! We walked with ropes on the glacier, learned how to overcome cracks, climb on fixed ropes with jumars and descend on a "glass". The weather is sunny. Tomorrow we plan to go to the second camp.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Today is July 15th. Broad Peak. Pakistan. 8056 m . Having successfully carried out acclimatization, we went down from Camp 2 to Base Camp on the 13th. It is on the 13th that Volodya Kotlyar, who performs a secret mission on K2, has a birthday. Two base camps, Broad Peak and K2, came to congratulate him. He turned 34 years old. The limit of youth that he had set for himself. Now adult life begins. Volodya, a great voyage for a big ship!
The weather in Pakistan does not allow us to think about the future yet. All the slopes were covered with snow. The snow has fallen even in BC. We are all sitting in tents. We read books, watch movies, make love. Who has what opportunities....

News of the Elbrus region. Two groups of the 7 Summits Club with guides Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov made an acclimatization rotation to the Pastukhov Rocks, up to a height of 4500 meters. Now in the Elbrus region there is an active melting of snow cover, which is associated with an increase in air temperature. And because of this, there is both the "snow porridge" and the streams on the path to the Pastukhov rocks. We have to try to follow in the footsteps of previously passed groups. The weather also was not the best, a strong wind was blowing above 4300, so everyone climbed to the lower rocks of Pastukhov at a height of 4500-4600, where they spent about 20 minutes. Tomorrow the groups are resting and preparing for the summit assault.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
There is no Internet here, neither satellite nor mobile. The whole sky is overcast. It's raining. Luda and I spent a night in Camp 2. And today, under the roar of avalanches and the howling of blizzards, we were able to descend to the base camp of Broad Peak. Today is July 13th. Since July 17th, everyone here expects good weather. I have a different opinion. The weather in Pakistan this year is not encouraging. There are still no fixed ropes to the top of Broad Peak. And on K2 in general, ropes were hung only up to camp 3.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club with guides Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov continued acclimatization already on the slopes of Mount Elbrus. The participants and guides first moved by cable car the shelter National Park, then continued their preparations for the ascent. In the afternoon, they held snow and ice classes, where they mastered the skills of self-rarrest with an ice pick and moving in various ways in crampons. Tomorrow everyone goes to the Pastukhov Rocks.

Guide Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings from the group "All on 215" from the Lenin Peak base camp! Today there was a sunny but extremely windy day! During a walk to the crest of Petrovsky Peak, everyone was blown away! But this did not prevent us from climbing to a height of 4018 meters, admiring the still surviving hanging glaciers and taking beautiful photos. For tomorrow, the Internet does not draw rosy weather, but we will move to the first camp! Soon there will be no normal communication...

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "All on 215"!  We are here and we are happy!  Along the way, we admired marmots carrying their mortal carcasses into their burrows... We saw the northern slope of the mountain, were pleasantly stunned by the views and went to dinner.  We are well placed in comfortable large tents, picked up the missing equipment and smoothly depart... Not what you thought, let's go to rest! It's windy in the camp. Tomorrow, according to the plan, an acclimatization rotation to the crest of Petrovsky Peak at 4000.

Now Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko are on acclimatization rotation on the slopes of Broad Peak.  We bring to your attention photos from trekking to the base camp.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region from the group "Beautiful"!  Our acclimatization began on the slopes of Cheget. The views are not very good today, the mountains are partially covered, but the weather is good. It's a little colder now, apparently a new cyclone has come to us. And otherwise, everything is fine - we continue the program further.

Guide Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings to all from the city of Osh! Our program of climbing Lenin Peak begins! Today the participants arrived, and before lunch they were recovering from a sleepless night on the plane. We checked our equipment, got acquainted with the peculiarities of the local mentality, and went to the pool! Then there was dinner, we celebrated the meeting! Tomorrow we are scheduled to move to the base camp at an altitude of 3600 meters.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
News of the Elbrus region from the group "Helen and the bears". Today we climbed the Western peak of Elbrus, the highest point of Russia and Europe. We were very lucky with the weather, the ascent took place in clear and calm weather. From the top, we saw views of the entire Main Caucasian Ridge and the surroundings of Elbrus. Now we are already in a hotel in Terskol Village, and we are enjoying the benefits of civilization that are not available in the assault camp.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, from Pakistan:
We came to the base camp of expeditions on Broad Peak. This is already good news. The bad news is that so far not a single person has climbed Broad Peak. Today, Furtenbach's team has already gone home after an summit attempt. It ended a little above Camp 3 due to the large amount of snow and no fixed ropes.
It looks like Lyuda and I came just in time. Everything is just beginning.... By the way, the food here is excellent. And the camp is very comfortable.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Greetings from Pakistan from Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko! Have you lost us? We were out of touch for 4 days. The satellite failed. And the local connection appeared only on July 7, in Concordia. So, from July 4 to July 7, we moved from Ascole (a village at 3050) to Concordia (a camp at 4500 with a view of K2 and other eight-thousandths). On the way we spent the night in the camps of Jola, Payu, Urdukas. The last two crossings were the longest - 9-10 hours on the Baltoro glacier. But the beauty is indescribable! Tomorrow we plan to make a short trip to the base camp of Broad Peak. Then - rest and acclimatisation rotation on Broad Peak.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club with guides Alexander Dorojukov, Dmitry Semenov and Eugene Fedyunin reached the Western Peak of Elbrus massif today. The ascent took place in perfect weather conditions. The participants were able to admire the beautiful panorama of the Caucasus Mountains. The state of the route can also be called ideal. Welcome to the Caucasus!

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
News of the Elbrus region from the group "Helen and the bears". Today, as planned, we made an acclimatization rotation to the Pastukhov Rocks. The weather was pleasant, it was sunny and clear, so we were able to see most of the Main Caucasian Ridge, such Summits as: Dykhtau, Mizhirgi, Shkhara, Ushba, Shtavler. We hope that the same weather will be on the ascent, and we will be able to see Kazbek and other famous Summits of the Caucasus. Tomorrow we plan to rest and prepare for the ascent.

Alexander Dorozhukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:
Greetings from the Iskorka group! Today our cheerful team slowly but surely climbed under the Rocks of Pastukhov. The weather was gorgeous: views, mountains, snow. We had a great walk. Our acclimatization is over, tomorrow is a day of rest and then climb the summit.