All news: September 2022

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:

The team is at the top of Mount Shantung. Details will be available later. It's snowing now.  Thunderstorm. After leaving the Base Camp at 4200 at 5 am, at 11:30 we climbed to the summit of Shantung. This is the highest peak of the Dilsai Plateau.

Sergey Larin, head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Manaslu:

It is the time for the main news of the expedition of the Project 8000.guide. Yesterday, September 30, the Team of 8000.guide climbed the main peak of Manaslu. And now, which is also important, in full strength and in full health, except for the usual cough after using oxygen, summiters went down to the base camp. Details and more photos later. Due to the windy weather, the participants were allowed to climb at their own pace. Now we have to fly by helicopter to Kathmandu.

Tashi Sherpa: Final countdown on Manaslu. All members and Sherpas are in camp 4 right now
They will start for summit push around 3-4 am. They say it’s very windy right now but weather say the winds will drop from 1am tonight.

The President of the 7 Summits Club, Alexander Abramov from Pakistan:

 Leaving the town of Chilas early in the morning, we reached the settlement of Tato in 4 hours by jeep on a crazy road.  This is where our trekking, probably the most beautiful in my life, began. We were walking through a pine forest surrounded by rocky mountains and mountain streams.   And by nightfall we reached the world-famous Fairy Meadow place - fantastic meadows. Here we settled in nice wooden houses.

Новости из нашей экспедиции на Манаслу. Проект 8000.путеводитель. Команда под руководством Сергея Ларина вчера (28 сентября) перешла из Лагеря 1 (5800) в Лагерь 3 (6800). А сегодня они поднимутся из Лагеря 3 в Лагерь 4 (7400). А этой ночью планируется штурм вершины Манаслу.

Пожелаем им хорошей погоды и удачи!

Sergey Larin, the head of the expedition on Manaslu reports from Nepal:

News of the project 8000.guide, expedition on Manaslu. The situation with rescue work has been resolved for the better since morning. The  helicopter arrived, with which communication was lost yesterday. He landed in the gap in the area of 5500m and spent the night there. Today, the group of the 7 Summits Club moved from Manaslu base camp (4800 m) to Camp 1 (5500 m). The climb to high-altitude camps is scheduled for the following days.  The summit assault is planned for September 30.

We wish our team good weather and good luck!

News of the Project 8000.guide. This morning, on the slopes of Manaslu, just below Camp 4, an avalanche hit a group of Sherpas who were lifting loads to the assault camp.  Information about passing rescue is updated all the time, you can follow on the website https://thehimalayantimes.com . According to reports, 12 people were injured, some of them seriously, or even in critical condition.  Some of them have already been taken to hospitals.  Rescue operations are complicated by bad weather.

The group of the 7 Summits Club is in full force at the base camp, in complete safety.  The team planned to start climbing tomorrow. However, this exit probably will not take place. First you need to wait for the end of the rescue work and assess the real state of the route. Today is a hard day at Manaslu. First came the message that when descending from the top, the famous American athlete Hilaree Nelson fell into a crevasse and probably died, then the avalanche.

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Pakistan:

Today, September 25, is officially the first day of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and company 8000.guide to Pakistan.  The team led by Alexander Abramov, who was named "Maria Ivanovna", had a great day in Islamabad today.

All arrived, all things flew. Checked the equipment - found the missing. We visited the largest mosque in Southeast Asia, visited the monument to those who died for the freedom of Pakistan, went to the bazaar and finished the day at the Kabul restaurant with delicious kebabs.Alexander Kharchenkov also had a birthday today. Which we cheerfully celebrated on the roof of our hotel. The team gave him a gift. Everyone had a lot of fun. Tomorrow we leave in the direction of Nanga Parbat.  Adventures and dangers begin. Hurray!

 Addition: By tradition in Pakistan, all people are very friendly and polite, many happily ask to take a selfie with strangers. Therefore, our movement around the city was slow, but solemn. Everyone was very satisfied with a wonderful day.

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Pakistan:

Project 8000.guide of the 7 Summits Club in action.  Today, the first part of the team arrived in Pakistan. And after a short rest, we went climbing. To the nearest mountain.  In 2.5 hours we gained 1000m. It began to rain wildly and a thunderstorm began.  But the team continued climbing.  After that, we decided to call the team "Wet in the Dark". We're soaked to the skin. Lightning flashed every second. Such a test turned the team into a Monolith!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Larin reports from Pakistan:

News of the Project 8000.guide, from the expedition on Manaslu. We are resting, trying to decide when to go climbing. Two participants stayed to rest at the base camp, two went down to Samagaon (3550m) by helicopter. Simone Moro was the pilot. He decided to show his skills. We went down in a minute, we had to blow through. One participant flew to Kathmandu due to business necessity. In a few days, the weather promises to improve, but the wind is increasing.

Message from the President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov:

Alexander Abramov with a team of 10 people is flying to Pakistan.  The purpose of the trip: exploration of routes in Pakistan with the aim of conducting an expedition to Broad Peak and K2 next summer.  The team will visit the Nanga Parbat Base Camp, cross the Deosai Plateau (Pakistani Tibet) and ascend to the highest point of the plateau, Mount Shantun (5400m).

And like the cherry on the cake, we want to complete the program by climbing to the summit of Khosar Gang (6200m) located near Skardu, already in Karakorum.

The ascent is organized by the company 8000.guide together with the company the 7summits.club.

Sergey Larin, the head of the expedition to Manaslu reports from Nepal:

News of the project 8000.guide. Today, on 21.09, our team went down to the base camp. We were ready to climb. We headed up with this thought and preparation. Our acclimatization was not quite final, but the planned amount of oxygen allowed us to make the ascent. However, the weather has spoken its word!  The ropes fixed by the Nims team to the top became useless under a meter-thick layer of snow. And the assault camp on the 7400 is not installed and equipped. We spent the night at 6800, this is Camp 3. The team does not lose hope, despite the fact that it will most likely have to reschedule tickets. By the way, on the 17th day we found out that our expedition is international. Yuri Lukyanov is a representative of Kazakhstan. It's a rest now. Another confirmation that patience is the main thing in high-altitude mountaineering. By the way, there are also traffic jams on Manaslu.

News from the Manaslu expedition led by Sergey Larin.  Project guide.8000 (14 eight-thousandths). Today our expedition in full force reached the high-altitude camp 3 (7000 m). All participants feel well. Tomorrow, according to the plan, the team will move to Camp 4 (7400m) and on the same night they will start for the final summit push. That is, the assault on the summit is planned for the morning of September 22. Wish good luck to our team!

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region from the group "Mad Chanterelles ". Having made an attempt to climb on the reserve day, we only reached the Saddle. Therefore, it was decided to try to climb the Western Peak on Sunday. The weather turned out to be perfect today. And we got up at dawn on the summit and enjoyed the views of the surrounding area.

Valery Myasoedov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Iran:

Greetings from Tehran! The final group of the 2022 season was held at a high level.  Having made the ascent in 6 hours and 20 minutes to the top of Damavand, we put not a dot, but an exclamation mark for the whole season as a whole! Oksana and Andrey, having shown excellent physical fitness during acclimatization rotation, and on the summit day, showed themselves worthily. The weather was not as comfortable as in summer.  September is the autumn season with strong cold winds, the more deserved and desired was the peak. Well done!

Yes, the 2022 season on Damavand turned out well for the 7 Summits Club. For the first time, during the whole season, from June to September, we formed several groups every month, and it is important to note that we ensured 100% ascent of all participants to the top. We hope that the next season will be just as eventful and successful! Damavand is waiting for you!

Sergey Larin, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Manaslu reports from Nepal:

News of the project 8000.guide.  Our plans have changed once again due to the change in the forecast and the actual weather.  Today, 17.09, we held training with oxygen equipment. We're going up tomorrow after all. There will be no communication for several days.

 Our friend Tashi Sherpa sent photos and videos from the Manaslu base camp, where in total there is also a section of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Sergey Larin. On the eve of the traditional puja ceremony took place under the incessant rain and the climbers received a blessing for a successful ascent and descent.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. Today is the final day of acclimatization. We went up to 4500m, to the bottom of the Pastukhov Rocks. Strong wind and fresh snow made our ascent more difficult, but we coped with the task. Tomorrow we rest and prepare for the summit climb, as well as monitor the weather for the coming days.

Sergey Larin, leader of the expedition on Manaslu, from Nepal:

News of the program 8000.guide.

13.09. Day of rest at the base camp. Puja, as it turned out, is scheduled for 15. 09. And this makes adjustments to our plans. Now we can start further acclimatization only on September 16. Going out without puja is not good for karma. We decided not to spoil karma.

14.09. We held ice classes in the rain. We are already used to rain and fog.

Simone Moro flew into the base camp, but he can't fly down yet because of the weather.

He participated in the rescue work here. In difficult conditions, he removed a climber from Dubai from the route, who became ill at 6400.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. The program of acclimatization and preparation for the ascent of Elbrus of a new group has begun.  Today we climbed to a height of 2700 meters on the slope of Mount Cheget.  The path passed along a forest path, which then turned into a zone of alpine meadows.  In the afternoon, we rented the necessary equipment and prepared for the ascent to the refuge National Park.

News of the Project 8000.guide.

10.09.  A day of rest at the base camp.

11.09. Acclimatization rotation to Camp 1 (5650m) with overnight stay. The base camp stretches along the slope for 150m, we are at an altitude of 4860m at the very beginning of the camp. There is a wet corner here, there is less precipitation below and above, but there is no better place for a camp. It rains every day, sometimes turning into sleet, most of the time we are in a cloud. But our tents are adapted to this climate, completely waterproof, insulated, with beds and mattresses.

12.09. All participants went down to the base after acclimatization rotation. It's all good. Everyone tolerates high altitude well.  We had shower and rest.