All news: November 2023

On November 25, 2023, the ZIL Palace of Culture hosted a gala evening of the Russian Mountaineering Federation in honor of the 100th anniversary of Russian mountaineering. As part of the event, the President of the 7 Summits Club, Alexander Abramov, presented commemorative badges to the climbers who climbed Mount Everest and other eight-thousand-meter peaks in 2023. The 7 Summits Club was the main organizer of the gala evening and made a decisive contribution to the successful holding of the event. See the photo gallery of the works of the photographer Svyetoslav Velesov.

Anastasia Kuznetsova, guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club reports from Ecuador:

I remind you that there are 10 volcanoes in Ecuador above 5000 m and only one of them above 6000 m, it is also the highest peak of Ecuador and the furthest point from the center of the Earth - Chimborazo volcano (6310 m). Chimborazo is a project mountain and the dream of many climbers. I must admit that recently, for one reason or another, the groups on Chimborazo remained without the summit, to our great regret. One of my tasks was to figure out what is wrong and why the participants fail to reach the top.

   I received a certain acclimatization, although the group and I did not climb 2 of the 3 peaks, but high-altitude overnight stays were made and acclimatization rotations were made. The logistics at Chimborazo is built in this way. First you come to the administration of the National park. You show your permit and the residence permit of the guide (you can climb according to the rules only with licensed guides), you draw up the necessary documents. Then you go to the parking lot at 4800 m, where there is a shelter, but few people use it, because now local residents are responsible for it and it is sparsely populated and uncomfortable.

   Basically, all climbers make the march from a parking lot at 4800 to a high-altitude camp at 5,300 m. Moreover, as a rule, everyone goes at once in assault boots and carries all their belongings on themselves. And although the move to a high-altitude camp is considered easy (like 2-3 hours on a gentle path), but the drop of 500 m and the height itself above 5000 m has not been canceled. Most climbers come to the camp already tired, and after a few hours they go to the assault, so it is a great recommendation to negotiate in advance about the services of high-altitude porters. We immediately include this in all our national team programs, and I used this service myself, which allowed me to come to the camp light and not get tired on the way.

The start was scheduled for 23.00, so that there was a reserve of time, and so that there was an opportunity to go at your own pace. The sunset was excellent, but at the exit the weather was so-so (strong wind, intermittent precipitation and lack of visibility, but in Ecuador the weather changes every 15 minutes, you can't guess in advance and it's almost useless to look at forecasts). The guide called the weather a bad word, but decided to go anyway.

 We dressed warmly and went. On Chimborazo, first there are approaches to the slopes of the volcano along rocky ridges with elements of climbing, then several long snow-covered steep slopes with cracks (it seems that this will never end). Then the last steep part ends and it seems that here it is the top (marked with an inconspicuous rod), but this is only the second peak (6200 meters with something), and there is still an hour's journey to that cherished one along the next hard part, and there is no sign at the very top, nothing. Only snow on the rounded top!

To say that I would not have ascended without a guide is to say nothing! Edgar Parra understood everything and did everything to get me up. He carried all my heavy things, dressed and took off my mittens when I was no longer able to do it myself, said that I was walking very well when I was almost unable to move, smeared cream and gave tea, dragged me on a rope when I periodically fell into a semi-comatose state after 6000 M. On the other hand, if I didn't have such a goal and motivation to go to the top, then he alone would hardly have brought me there. That is, it was still a team effort - my desire and his experience.

When we were descending and I was impatient to get to the camp as soon as possible with shaking legs and hands, Edgar decided to show me another cool thing – via ferrata, which he and the guides from the local mountaineering federation punched. "Just show" did not work! He strapped me to it with a rigid safety harness and told me to get down. I realized that until I descend from this cliff in boots with cats on my arms and legs shaking after the mountain on iron brackets and a stream flowing down from above, there is no chance to reach home. What can you not do to just let them let you go!

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Mexico:

Buenos Dias!  The Totonaki group climbed the summit of Orizaba Peak today! We left at one o'clock in the morning, and already at 8 in the morning we were standing on top of the crater. We were lucky with the weather. Two days ago it was snowing, and today it was calm and clear sky. On the descent from the Base Camp we went to the city of Pueblo, where tomorrow we have a city tour.

Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Ecuador:

News from Ecuador, climbing the Cayambe volcano. Hello everyone! Today, the culmination of the program is an assault on Ecuador's Cayambe volcano (5790 m), the only volcano with a glacier located on the equator line.

The day before, we arrived at the Olea Ruales shelter later than planned, but went to bed early. We decided to go out in two teams with an hour difference. As a result, everyone met about 4 hours after the start of the first team.

A lot of teams started from the shelter that night, there was not a single empty seat in it. As a result, somewhere in the middle of the route, team after team began to turn around due to avalanche danger. We stayed the longest, left the main route to the ridge, where the ascent is more difficult, but safer from the point of view of avalanches. We climbed up to 5400 m by dawn, 300 m remained to the top of the most difficult section - a steep glacier with open and closed cracks. The steep climb took more time and effort. We decided to stop, fix the altitude and start the descent back until the hot equatorial Ecuadorian sun melted the glacier like butter. For most of the team members, it was the first experience of such a height! Everyone is very impressed!

After the mountain, we moved to a hotel on the shore of the picturesque volcanic lake San Pablo in the area of the town of Otovalo.

Today there will be a farewell dinner and tomorrow departure to the airport and then who goes where. The guys are flying to the Galapogos to get acquainted with Ecuador in all its manifestations.

I'm going further along the rest of the volcanoes, there are 78 of them in Ecuador!  I will tell you the details in the next issues!

The news was written by Anastasia Kuznetsova, manager of the Ecuador direction. Photos and videos from the team's super-guide Boris Egorov. We are not saying goodbye!

Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Ecuador:

Hola from Ecuador! Today we said goodbye to the beautiful hacienda La Cinega and its eucalyptus groves and headed closer to our main goal - Cayambe volcano. But, along the way, we will have another stop for the night in a beautiful place - the thermal springs of the Pappayakta Valley, originating from the Cayambe and Antisana volcanoes. Cascades of baths with mineral water of different temperatures in a blooming garden and views of volcanoes are very similar to a paradise where you want to stay longer.

On the way to Pappayakta, we wanted to taste a local delicacy - "kui" in one of the local "kui", but something stopped us, in the end we decided to abstain and have lunch at the hotel.

Tomorrow there are extensive plans - the birthday of one of the band members (the author and ideological inspirer of this trip) and moving to the shelter of the Kayamba volcano, from where the group will have to storm this key peak.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Mexico:

Buenos Dias! News of the Totonaki group. After the snow fell at night at the Orizaba Base Camp, after breakfast, we went to the acclimatization rotation. Before that, the crampons were fitted under high-rise boots, as it was slippery on the trail. In the end, the sun did not appear, although we hoped for it.  On the contrary, snow broke off at times. We walked along the mountain path, climbed through the maze to the plateau, where a fairly heavy snowfall had already begun.  Here they decided that we were hungry and went down to meet with Mexican cuisine. Tomorrow we will go to the assault camp, from where the ascent to Orizaba Peak will begin.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Mexico:

 Buenos Dias! The Totonaki group continues its journey to the peak of Orizaba.  From Saltepec we went to Orizaba Base Camp.  Part of the way we went by bus, then, where the dirt road began, we switched to SUVs. The camp is located at an altitude of 4200. It snowed at night, and we found ourselves in winter. Our tents are of high quality, neither the things nor the participants got wet. After breakfast we go up the slopes for acclimatization. 

Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Ecuador:

 In the morning, we left the capital of Ecuador - Quito early and moved towards Machachi (local Chamonix), where there are many volcanoes large and small around. Today, the plan was to continue acclimatization on the next volcano - Iliniza Norte (5127 m), with a height comparable to Ararat. We have to get to the refuge at 4800 m, spend the night there and go out on the mountain in the morning.

On the way to Iliniza, we stopped for rent and had lunch at one of the authentic Machachi restaurants, which turned out to be very useful before going to the shelter with a 900 m climb (the march from 3900 to 4800 m). On the way to the refuge, panoramas of the volcanoes of Cotopaxi, Antisana, Cayambe, Corazon (translated as heart) were opened. At sunset we reached the Nuevos Gortzontas shelter at 4800 m. For many members in the team, this is the first experience of a night in a mountain shelter and the first night at such an altitude.

We got up early in the morning to go to Iliniza. But, the weather did not please. A cloud hung over the mountain and all the slopes were wet and dusted with snow. We decided not to go to the top along the rocky route along the ridge, but to walk along the saddle in order to acclimatize better.

As soon as we left the refuge in the direction of the valley, the weather began to improve, the clouds dispersed, the sun came out and all the snow on the slopes instantly melted, as if nothing had happened.

 After a night at the refuge, we had lunch in a traditional Ecuadorian restaurant and rest in the ancient hacienda of La Cinega. The hacienda itself is a unique atmospheric place with a rich 400-year history. This estate has been owned from generation to generation by one family, starting from Marquis Mateo, that is, from 1695 to the present.

This estate has witnessed important events in the history of Ecuador, establishing itself as one of the oldest and noblest mansions in the country. Important people stayed here, including Alexander Humboldt, the founder of botanical geography.

And now our group is resting before moving on towards the Cayambe volcano.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Mexico:

Buenos Dias!  Our group "Totonaki" moved to the active part of the program, in which today we had to climb the summit of La Malinche.  We did it! The height of 4400 and the height difference of 1300 are passed! A beautiful peak and a beautiful route to it. Everything was here today: beautiful forest trails, fascinating views of the surroundings located at the foot of the mountain, and stone scree, and even had to climb a little on the rocks when reaching the top.  Tired and satisfied, we went down to the Hacienda. Tomorrow we are already going to the foot of Orizaba Peak, where we will spend several acclimatization days before the summit assault.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Mexico:

Buenos Dias! So we're in Mexico.  Where the highest volcano in North America is located - Orizaba. And our group is called Totonaki. From the capital city of Mexico City, we set off on a journey to this beautiful peak. We made a stop at the pyramids of Teotihuacan, where we got acquainted with the ancient civilization. After that we moved to Saltepec, from where tomorrow we will go on an acclimatization ascent to the summit of La Malinche.

Hola from Ecuador! How can you start the day so that you have enough energy for the whole day? For example, go to a yoga studio early in the morning. There, Master Santiago will quickly teach you how to do all the asanas deeply and correctly.

But, the main info-reason, of course, is not this one. The group finally reached the volcanoes and made their first acclimatization climb on the volcano Ruco Pichincha, which overhangs Quito with its slopes. For most of the members, this was the first high-altitude experience. Everyone did a great job! Although, for many it was not easy at all! We were very lucky with the weather! As soon as we got back down, a couple of minutes later a heavy downpour began.

On the way we saw parama (high Andean steppes), the famous "Ecuadorian Edelweiss", a lot of Andean rabbits and, of course, a bird on the top, which has already become a symbol of this place.

Tomorrow we leave Quito and go towards the next volcano Iliniza Norte.

 Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Ecuador:

Today we continued our acquaintance with the capital of Ecuador - Quito, which means, of course, "the center of the world". And the name of the country Ecuador, as it is not difficult to guess, means "equator".

The morning began in the Gothic cathedral, on the Condor tower, from where you can see the whole of Quito and its symbol - the statue of the Virgin Mary with wings towering on top of the hill.

Then we got lost in the colonial streets and squares of Quito, looked into the Franciscan monastery, where an ancient brewery still exists and operates, got to a local festival, had lunch in a traditional restaurant overlooking the main square of the city. And at the end of the day we stood, of course, on the equator line with one foot in the Northern Hemisphere and the other in the Southern Hemisphere.

Tomorrow we climb the mountains! Our first volcano is Ruco Pichincha.

Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Ecuador:

Finally, the whole group is assembled and we begin our acquaintance with Ecuador with a visit to the cloud forest of Mindo. Cloud forest is a zone of equatorial rain forest stretched along the western slope of the Andes at an altitude of about 2000 m. Moisture evaporates over the Pacific Ocean, rises and settles in the form of thick clouds along the Andes ridge at about these heights. A dense blooming lush forest with lianas, bromeliads and tree ferns among the clouds looks mysterious and mysterious.

Mindo is the closest nature reserve to Quito with such a natural area.

There are many different activities for every taste. Someone rafts on a local mountain river, someone feeds a hummingbird with sweet nectar, someone watches butterflies and orchids.

We went hiking through the rain forest to a series of waterfalls, reaching the starting point on the local version of the cable car through the blooming valley.

The highlight of the day was a visit to a local farm where handmade chocolate is made from cocoa, which is grown right here. Already on the way we were knocked down by the magical rich aroma of freshly made hot chocolate. Then we participated in the process of making chocolate from the very beginning, from tasting fresh coffee beans, a bit like lychee. Next comes their fermentation in special trays under the open sky. In small farms, fermented grains are fried over a fire in a large cast-iron frying pan, fried grains are peeled and rubbed with a stone in a stone bowl. It turns out 100% cocoa bean paste without any additives.

Next, the paste is heated, various incredible additives are added and poured into molds for chocolate bars.

Of course, we didn't leave until we tried all kinds of pure 100% chocolate and chocolate with additives of lemongrass, mint, coffee, dry tropical fruits, orange, black pepper. The husk also goes into business. It makes a wonderful tonic drink.

In general, the day was a success!

Polish climber Bartholomei (Bartek) Paczoski has climbed with the 7 Summits Club not the first time. Both on Everest and on K2, he proved himself a reliable comrade, a strong athlete, a friendly and sociable person of high culture. We are extremely grateful to him for his loyalty to our friendship, for the fact that he joined the Russian company without any apparent doubts. Well, for the photos! We didn't even expect such a gift! A great warm-up before the upcoming premiere of the film "The High Altitude Gene 2. The Mountain of all Mountains"

 The full gallery is here…

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste from Nepal! The trekking part of the program ended, then the climbing part of the program began. A part of members of the group "SpeakegsY" climbed the summit of Lobuche East. An interesting and technical route.  Lots and lots of fixed ropes. By which we have successfully ascended to the goal. The weather was just ringing today: sunny and windless. But we still had to work hard. Now we are already in the village of the same name Lobuche. Next, we plan to fly to Lukla, and from there to Kathmandu.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

Greetings from the group "I love PNG", from the other side of the Earth!  On November 8, we arrived at Betty's lodge, where we tasted delicious trout from her farm. On November 9, we moved to the base camp of Wilhelm Peak. The last part of the way we walked in boots in the pouring rain. We had dinner and went to bed.

November 10th. At 1:00 the start from the camp. The trail began through the forest along the lake, which we saw only on the descent. After an hour of walking, a sharp climb up and up the rocky trail began. The starry sky illuminated our path, everyone made a wish. At dawn, a stunning view of the surroundings opened up and with the first rays of the sun we saw our peak, on which we stood after half an hour. The last part was rocky, where we had to climb up, but it was worth it! At 7:00, the whole team reached Wilhelm Peak. At 12:00 we went down to the base camp, ate trout caught in the lake and went further down.

Betty had caviar from the farm waiting for us and congratulations. Today we are already at the hotel, celebrating the successful ascent of Giluwe and Wilhelm, by the way, according to some sources, Wilhelm Peak is the highest point of Australia (Oceania).

In the spring of 2024, an International Chess Tournament will be held on Everest with the support of FIDE.  According to the scheme "Mountaineering + Chess". The tournament will begin at the Everest Base Camp with 1/4 finals. Then each new round will take place in the next high-altitude camp. The finalists will play in the Everest assault camp and then will have the opportunity to climb Everest. The prize fund of the tournament is $ 150,000

If you want to participate, register on the website of the 7 Summits Club.

The organizers are "7 Summits Club" and "Security Code".

 The video shows the President of the 7 Summits Club Alex Abramov and the CEO of the Security Code company Andrey Golov.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste from Nepal! Our group "SpeakegsY" reached Gorakshep. We went to the Everest base camp yesterday, and this morning we climbed Kala Pathar. Now a group is already in Lobuche.  Part of the group completed the program and went by helicopter to Lukla, and from there to Kathmandu.  The rest of the participants will climb into the assault camp of the Lobuche East tomorrow.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

 Hello everyone from Wilhelm Peak from the group "I love PNG"! Today at 7:00 the group climbed to the top and watched the dawn there. Now we have already gone down to the lodge. I'll tell you more tomorrow.

The adventures of the 7 Summits Club team continue in Papua New Guinea, one of the most exotic countries in the world! After successfully climbing the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania, Giluwe, the group moved to the base camp of Mount Wilhelm, the highest peak in the country. Now the group is resting after the march. On the way, the members were caught in the rain, but the mood is optimistic, as is the weather forecast for the start of the ascent!

We wish our team good luck and are waiting for news!