All news: July 2023

 The guide of the 7 Summits Club Olga Rumyantseva reports from Tanzania:

Greetings to all from the slopes of Kilimanjaro from the Kiliman 23 group! Today we had a very long day, and a rather difficult march. From the Shira camp, we climbed the Lava Tower, which is located at an altitude of 4600 meters, had lunch, felt the altitude a little and went down to the Baranko camp at an altitude of 3900 meters.

On the way, we admired armfuls of flowers, a carpet of clouds under us and a view of the summit of Kilimanjaro. Fortunately, the weather welcome us with beautiful views, without dragging them into clouds.

And after lunch we went down to the forest of wonderful senecia plants, which impressed everyone. And there was also a view of the Kilimanjaro wall, which impressed no less.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Greetings to all from the slopes of the Pamir mountains from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we actively rested. We went for a walk to the lakes, swam and played a little with pebbles, and also fried potatoes... Tomorrow is another day of rest and, according to the plan, on the night of 19-20, we will go to the second camp.

July 12. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!  The most persistent celebrated the meeting on the Elbe all night - the meeting of our expedition and trekkers. In the morning it snowed again.

The trekkers decided to try to pass through Gondogoro La after all and left our camp at 11 am. And we just got some not very good news from above - our entire Camp-2 was blown away by the wind. 8 tents are missing. 5 seem to have remained. The gas is all gone.

In general, we decided to postpone the exit for one more night. 

 July 13.

Due to the lack of tents, we decided to go out in two groups. The first is 9 participants and 6 Sherpas. This morning, immediately to Camp-1, overnight, then to Camp-2, overnight, then exit to Camp-3 and immediately down. The second group of 3 participants and 2 Sherpas - ABC, C1, C2, down.

 The hurricane raged all night. Our tents were almost torn in the camp. The toilet was torn after all. We got up at 4 in the morning. They tried to put a toilet. In vain. Let's go wake up Vladimir Kotlyar and congratulate him on his birthday. He seemed pleased. At 5 a.m. we went out with a strong wind. By 7 in the morning they came to ABC. We rested a little and went to the first camp. In 4-5 hours we went from 5300 to 6100. There's a problem with places here. There is nowhere to put tents - about 10 tents were barely huddled over the abyss. We were accommodated in 3 tents for 3 participants. And two more Sherpas.

We rest, eat, acclimatize. Tomorrow we will go higher.

 July 14th.

The night in Camp 1 passed quietly. The wind died down. It was even hot. In the morning, everyone woke up long before 7 o'clock - it was at this time that the general rise was planned. We had breakfast and left before 8 am. On the way, we admired the views, who could. The ascent became steeper, there were many rocky areas and mixed. By 11-12 days we came to Camp-2 under the fireplace. It was hardly possible to place 5 tents here. The toilet is a quest again - on a steep slope you have to somehow manage to do something.

After lunch, we decided to make an acclimatization rotation. We climbed 300 meters vertically. On the way, I had to climb the chimney  - everyone was impressed here - 50 meters of almost vertical mixed climbing with flowing ice. But the rest of the route was much simpler and the views are very beautiful - both Gasherbrum, Broad Peak, Masherbrum, Chinese Summits were opened…

We went down to dinnertime to our Camp-2. Having dinner, getting ready for bed at 6600. Tomorrow morning we will go down to the BC to rest and prepare for the decisive assault on the summit.

 July 15th.

We woke up at 6600 in Camp-2, again earlier than planned. At 6 o'clock there was a start according to the plan, but most did not sleep well at this height and at 5 in the morning they were ready to go down. The weather in the morning was not very cloudy and windy.

Around 7 a.m., the descent began. Near the first camp we met our second group with Sergey Bogomolov, Dmitry Moskalev and Volodya Kotlyar. They walked briskly up. By 10 a.m. we were at ABC. We drank tea and rode to the sun for lunch. Kristina was waiting for us here with a film crew, Coca-Cola and - most importantly - with compote!!!

We returned almost whole and healthy.  Only Arno was slightly touched by a stone on the descent, another whistled very close to Daniil, and I managed to fall into a crack not far from BC - I got off with one wet foot!

As it turned out, during the three days of our absence from the camp, the popularity of our expedition doctor Andrei Selivanov increased significantly - a Pakistani princess began to come to his office - that's how we dubbed her. In fact, this is a famous Pakistani climber from the family of a Pakistani government official, Naili Kiani. She has already climbed 8 out of 14 eight-thousand meters. Of the Pakistani ones, only Broad Peak remained to her.  And the next morning news came that rescue work was underway on Broad Peak…

 July 16.

In the morning, everyone slept off after a difficult acclimatization exit. Although the weather forecast was expected to be good, it started raining in the morning. By lunchtime, our second group - Sergey, Dmitry and Vladimir - came down to the camp. The guys worked out their program well and returned satisfied with the results.

After lunch, Alina Pekova came to visit us. This modest girl has gone 5 eight-thousand meters in three months and tomorrow she goes to the sixth - Broad Peak. And then - it looks like K2 and further on all 14. What to say? You can only take off your hat!

A beaming doc came to dinner and boasted that he had just pulled out a tooth of one of the Sherpas, who had been suffering with a bad tooth for a long time. In general, our expedition doctor Andrey is a resuscitator. But here in the camp under K2 he has to face various problems to restore the health of participants in fact of all expeditions:

Yesterday I did a blockade to a Pakistani who fell and got a compression fracture; I was struggling with the asthma of a participant from Estonia who went 4 eight-thousandths without oxygen and now wants to go to K2 without oxygen too…

 July 17.

The morning began at 4.00, when a messenger from the trekking group from the Goro II camp came running and said that oxygen and a doctor were urgently needed, as one of the group was ill. Oxygen was sent urgently, and the doctor came down later.

There was a lot of fuss and commotion, but when mobile communication appeared, it turned out that our group of trekkers was already doing well and they were moving normally to Concordia.

In the afternoon, we held talks with our sirdar about plans for installation of high-altitude camps. So far, the ropes are only up to the Camp-3 (7400 m), plus 8 tents and gas flew away from us in the last bad weather, so it's difficult to plan the upper camps. And according to the forecast, the weather will worsen again soon.

But in the evening, the twin sisters pleased us - they cooked stuffed peppers and mimosa salad!

In touch - the leaders of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko.

 Dasha Sivova, guide of the 7 Summits Club:

Already in the capital of Pakistan, we summed up the results of this incredible journey in numbers:

 ⁃ More than 130km has been covered;

 ⁃ Maximum height reached: Gondogoro Pass 5480m;

⁃ Longest crossing of Khuspang-Khushe: 26km.

But the most important thing is the team that has come all this way together!

We discovered the most beautiful places in Pakistan, which took your breath away. We have passed paths that only a few people have walked. Wild and pristine.

Now our team has finally agreed that you need to go trekking to the K2 Base Camp at least once in your life! And this is the most beautiful trekking in the world!

 The group "Me and my young team" led by the highly experienced guide Viktor Volodin entered the walking part of the route on July 6, 2023. First day - transfer to Jula camp (3300 m). The route ran along the Braldu River.

July 7. Transfer to Paiju Camp (3383m). A rocky, sometimes dusty trail rises from the riverbed to the Paiju Glacier. Along the way, there is a view of Paiju Peak (6,600 m) and the Cathedral Towers (6,017 m).

July 8. Exit to the glacier and trek to the Urdukas camp 4050m. The longest march. Rain and lack of visibility prevented seeing the famous Trango and Muztag Towers.

July 9. Trek to the other side of the glacier to the Goro II camp. The weather has improved, some views have opened (Broad Rick, Gasherbrum -IV) M. Goro II is located at an altitude of 4382 m.

July 10. Not a very long walk to the Concordia camp (4600 meters).

July 11. March to the Base camp K2 (5100 m). Meeting with the participants and guides of the expedition on K2.

July 12. Day of rest at Base Camp K2.

July 13. Трек to Ali Camp. At night, exit to the Gondogoro pass (5480 m).

July 14. Descent from the Gondogoro pass. Descent to Huspang.

July 15th. Descent to Saicho, transfer to Skardu. Completion of the trek.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

 News of the Elbrus region. The group "We do not change habits" began acclimatization on the slopes of Cheget.  We went to the Ai cafe.  We drank mountain tea, ate local hychins and chebureks. We took lots and lots of photos and went down to the hotel. In the afternoon we took the necessary equipment.  Tomorrow we will go to the National Park Refuge, where we will spend three days and continue to acclimatize. 

The second trekking group of the 7 Summits Club came very close to its goal – the K2 base camp. They're spending the night at Camp Concordia tonight. Tomorrow is not a very long climb and a meeting with the main team of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2. There will be a celebration!

 The guide of the 7 Summits Club Olga Rumyantseva reports from Tanzania:

 Greetings from Tanzania from the slopes of Kilimanjaro from the Kiliman 23 group!  Today we went up to the Shira Cave camp.  The first night in the tents passed perfect, and at six in the morning everyone woke up and began to get ready to go. The way to the Shira camp is not long, but very steeply climbing up. However, we walked it at a good pace.

On the way, we admired the amazing nature and plants, fried in the sun, took thousands of beautiful photos, drank tea and sang songs. After lunch we went for a walk. See the very cave after which the camp is named. As well as other beautiful landscapes.

When we returned to the camp, we had an introduction ceremony with the team, which everyone remembered. Everyone sang and danced. And this is almost at 4000 meters. So acclimatization is going well.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Dasha Sivova reports from Pakistan:

Salaam from Islamabad from the group "Me and my young team"!  Well, we did it! Trekking to the Base Camp K2 and return through the Gondogoro pass has been completed!

Today in the capital of Pakistan, we summed up the results of this incredible journey: in numbers:

 ⁃ More than 130km has been covered

 ⁃ The maximum height has been reached: Gondogoro Pass 5480m

⁃ The longest Khuspang-Khushe crossing: 26km.

 But the most important thing is the team that has come all this way together!

We discovered the most beautiful places in Pakistan, which took your breath away. We have passed paths that only a few people have walked. Wild and pristine.

Now our team has finally agreed that you need to go trekking to the K2 Base Camp at least once in your life! And this is the most beautiful trekking in the world!

We are happy to share the long-awaited photos and videos! And we heartily congratulate all participants! We did it!

P.S. We spent today in Islamabad, resting from a long journey. A meeting with representatives of the Russian Embassy in Islamabad was also a pleasant surprise. We continue to build friendly relations with diplomatic missions in the countries where we send large expeditions, and we sincerely thank you for a pleasant acquaintance!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Olga Rumyantseva reports from Tanzania:

Greetings to all from Tanzania from the Kiliman 23 team! Today we left the hotel, having previously sorted things into those that we will take with us on a hike and those that will not be useful to us yet. After a short drive with the songs of our guides, we arrived at the beginning of the route.

The documents were issued, things were checked - at the entrance to the national park, the trunks and backpacks of the participants are checked so that nothing forbidden is brought. After that, we hit the road.

We walked 11 kilometers with a climb of 1100 meters and came to the Machame camp, where we had a view of the summit of Kilimanjaro. The road was very beautiful. We passed through the jungle, where the trees, shrouded in moss, were carried up, and tree ferns covered the sky.

Nikita Slotin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The group "Everything goes according to plan" safely descended to the first camp of Lenin Peak at noon. The third acclimatization rotation is completed. Now rest and wait for the weather. A few days... and for the final assault.

Alexander Dorojukov, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the group "International team"! We did it! We went to the top ahead of time, without a day of rest. We decided that we had enough strength, and saved a little time. The weather was constantly changing, there was wind and snow, but it didn't stop us. The program is over, the order has been awarded!

The 7 Summits Club guides Svetlana Kotlyar and Alexander Spirin: Salaam from Pakistan!  Today we are another 20 km closer to the goal of our trip – the K2 Base Camp! The day turned out to be difficult, but the most intense for emotions and impressions! We walked to the Urdokas camp on the Baltoro glacier, crossed mountain streams and rivers. Today it was a little cloudy and not so hot. The views surrounding us never cease to amaze with their beauty. In the evening, we celebrated the birthday of our participant Yulia Kotova with a festive dinner. Our local assistants baked the chicken and made a cake, and we cooked buckwheat. In the evening we looked at the stars from a height of 4000 meters……

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Camp-3 on Lenin Peak, from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we left our cozy dome at 5350 and climbed 6100 in 5.5 hours. The morning turned out to be sunny and hot, but after arriving at the camp it began to snow. After a little rest and eating pilaf and solyanka, we went to the summit of Razdelnaya 6140. We are waiting for the sunset and cooking borscht for dinner. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will descend to the first camp. They promise snowfall.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Turkey:

Our group - on summit of Ararat, we went all right! The mountain let go and let go down. The weather was great: the sun, almost no wind. The road was not easy, but we mastered the ascent. Alas, not all of them. But ten people were standing on top of the mountain. Now everyone has gone down to the hotel, we are resting. Part of the group goes further by car to Russia, and tomorrow we will go to Akhtamar Island. And this is the end of our journey. 

The expedition team of the 7 Summits Club on K2 spent the night in Camp-2 at an altitude of 6560 meters. Starting early in the morning, all participants went down to the base camp by 13 o'clock. At this point, the acclimatization rotations are completed, the team will wait for a favorable weather period to storm the summit.

Alexander Abramov: Mount K2 is exhaustingly difficult and heavy. It seems there are no direct difficulties, but the whole day the climb is at 45 degrees and the relief is mixed. Snow, rocks and ice at an altitude above 7000 m.  In the photo, Camp 1 is perched on a rocky ledge. All night there's ice flying from above, well not rocks. Stones were flying on the ice that year.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region.  The group "From dream to reality" in full force climbed the Western peak of Elbrus, 5642 meters. After several days of the cyclone, the weather improved, and from summit we saw stunning views of the Main Caucasian Ridge, as well as the mountainous regions of Georgia and the foothills of the Caucasus from the Russian side.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Dmitry Semenov reports from the Elbrus region:

  Greetings from the Elbrus region! Today our super-group "Height", in full force, made an ascent of Mount Elbrus (5642m.). This was our second attempt, the first time the weather, namely the wind, turned us from a height of 5280m..  But we used this unsuccessful exit as another acclimatization, but to the higher altitude. This gave us an advantage when climbing.  The weather on the second ascent was excellent, the moment of sunrise and the view of the Main Caucasian Ridge simply amazed with its splendor and fascinated with cosmic colors. The team members got a lot of positive emotions and are now ready for the next adventures.

On July 13, at 5 a.m., the group of the 7 Summits Club "GenKa2" left the base camp. After 2 hours we came to the ABC camp.  Then, at 8 o'clock, we started climbing and at 12:30 we reached Camp-1 at an altitude of 6100.  The weather was sunny, but there was a strong wind.

 After the rest, on July 14, the group continued climbing at 8 a.m. and by 12 o'clock reached Camp-2 at an altitude of 6550-6600 meters.  Everything is going great so far. Tomorrow, a small ascent up, presumably to the end of fixed ropes and descent to the base camp. And then there will be preparation for the assault on the summit.

Camp 1

We drink teas with sherpas in C2 for 6600. 

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello to everyone from from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! At night we managed to enjoy the starry sky. And today is another sunny day, which means that soon there will be no weather, just for our acclimatization.  But we are not discouraged and are preparing to go out! Today we held ice classes, remembered how to use descenders and jumars correctly. We walked in crampons on slopes of different steepness and learned to work as a single rope. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we go to the second camp, there will be no connection, unless the crazy Internet suddenly breaks through, but we use it to write to our relatives! Wait for news after the descent.

The participants of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 went out early this morning for the next, according to the plan, final acclimatization rotation. The whole team safely ascended to Camp-1 at an altitude of 5500 meters.  Everyone feels good. The combined team of the best Sherpas continues to equip the route. Tomorrow our group goes up to Camp-2, where it will spend the night and on July 15 everyone should go down to the base camp.

Kristina Kozlova: We didn't sleep all night today. There was a strong squally wind, even the toilet was blown away. But this did not change our plans, and early in the morning the team went to the last acclimatization rotation!