All news: July 2023

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 8. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altittude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Happy holiday to all - the day of family, love and fidelity! We continue to have the heaviest snowfalls. Today the snow is even stronger than yesterday. And continues to sweep.

For breakfast, to somehow cheer up, I took out  the last pack of coffee. This is a big deficit in Pakistan. We drank in the morning and cheered up. We hope that in a couple of days our trekking group led by Vitya Volodin and Dasha Sivova will come to us and bring us coffee. We are very worried about the friends - since we have such severe snowfalls here, they should now be heavily watered with rain at the crossings, plus the rivers could overflow their banks… But, hopefully, they will be able to get to us.

We were informed today that the Gondogoro La Pass has been closed for about a week. And there are a lot of groups in Concordia waiting for it to be opened. We hope that in a couple of days the snowfall will stop.

Today, after breakfast, our doctor Andrey Selivanov (he is also an instructor-guide) conducted rescue work classes in the mountains with improvised means. Very informative, interesting and useful. We also remembered some of the nodes and beat the situation, what to do in case of loss of equipment when moving along the fixed ropes.

There was a rumor that our tents in Camp 1 were blown away by the wind... Eh, the weather would have been nice sooner. Then we will go up to the upper camps and restore order.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region! The Victory group has successfully climbed to the top of Elbrus. The weather favored us throughout the journey. Stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains opened from the summit. Congratulations to all the participants of the ascent  and wish them new ascents! The group's guide is Andrey Berezin.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Hi! Today we are well done again, our group "Vertical" made an ascent to the Western peak of Elbrus (5642m.) The weather and our mood were great, we climbed to the top of Elbrus at a good pace. And the reward for this was unforgettable views of the Main Caucasian Ridge, and the vast expanses of the Northern Elbrus.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 7. All salams from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today was Groundhog Day. It snowed all night again and continued to fall all day. In the morning after breakfast we sat and composed poems about our base camp. For lunch, our chefs pleased us with pizza and PAKORA, a national Pakistani dish of potatoes, boiled eggs and onions.

After lunch, a quiet hour was arranged. And before dinner, guests came to us - Garrett Madison (the leader of Madison Expedition), two Frenchmen from Broad Peak (one of them has already climbed to almost 8000 on Broad - there are no fixed ropes yet) and our friend, who is now going to K2 with Nims. There is nothing special - very heavy snowfalls - it is impossible to go anywhere. So they go to visit each other.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Alexander Dorojukov, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings to the group "Franciacorta", going to Mount Elbrus! Today our gang-team walked to the Shelter of Eleven. There we held snow classes, we learned to distinguish sticks from an ice axe. The weather is gorgeous, we continue to go towards the goal.

Alexander Dorojukov, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the new group "Franciacorta", going to Mount Elbrus. Today our first acclimatization day was held on the slopes of Mount Cheget. We walked in good weather with beautiful flowers and views.

The team of the 7 Summits Club, led by the guide Viktor Volodin, "My young team and I” started today the walking part of the route to the K2 base camp. The group, overcoming the heat, climbed to the Jola Camp at an altitude of 3159 m. Tomorrow we have to go to Paiju. Today we celebrated the birthday of one of the participants Anton Smolsky.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus. The Victory group climbed up to the Pastukhov Rocks today. A light breeze and the sun accompanied us throughout the journey. Tomorrow we have a rest day before climbing to the summit of Elbrus.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 6. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!

Yesterday we came very tired after going to C1, so we slept without hind legs. Woke up covered with snow, barely dug out. The snow continued until lunch. Then it stopped a little and avalanches began to descend from K2 and Broad Peak. In the half hour that the snow stopped, the most hardened managed to wash in the shower.

In the morning, before breakfast, Kotlyar and I did exercises and brewed the last half-pack of coffee - we have to pamper ourselves with something. We enjoyed a cup of coffee with croissants. Instead of French croissants, we have Pakistani azoki.

Before lunch, we gave interviews on the results of yesterday's release. The RD studio team does not let you relax - they constantly take everything off. Today, even my morning yoga was filmed with a hidden camera. They also plan to take pictures of what each participant does in his free time in his tent. And how Louis (a high-altitude operator) draws pictures at an altitude of 5000.  By the way, Louis is not only an operator, but also a cool climber. He climbed K2 and other 8000. He worked a lot with Carlos Soria as a partner and high-altitude operator.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the slopes of snow-white Elbrus! Today was an important and responsible day for us.  Our group "Vertical" has made its first ascent to a serious height, and this is the top of the Pastukhov Rocks - 4700m. The weather was accompanied by a successful ascent, we walked at a good pace and the reward for this was wonderful views. Tomorrow we have a rest and a night out to storm the summit.

In the mountains to the stars can be reached by hand. Mountains fulfill dreams! Our climbing night started at 04:20, we started from the Base Camp at an altitude of 4200 meters.

The full moon illuminated the mountain peak of Demavend. Everyone was in anticipation and expectation. The weather favored us and our group "Deniski" went out to storm.

After completing one third of the climb, our team divided into two groups: fast and active, and measured and calm. 

The way to the top of the first group took 8 hours. The second group stood at the top of the Demavend at 12:50. Total: On July 4, 2023, the Deniski team of the 7 Summits Club in full force ascended to the summit of Demavend (5671m), the highest volcano in Asia!  The ascent was 100% successful!

Tired, but happy, we went down to the Base Camp at 17:00. There we were waiting for a hot delicious soup from our super chefs.  It is noteworthy that on the day of our ascent, Demavend Day is celebrated in Iran and in the evening we heard an ancient legend from our local guide Hamid and admired the fireworks.

Guides Valery Myasoedov, Evgeny Fedyunin, Olya Startseva.

Salaam from the group "Me and my young team" from Ascole!  Today we went to the alpine settlement of Askole at an altitude of 3300m. The journey was not fast — more than 6 hours on off-road vehicles on a serpentine through rivers. There are few places where you can get such an experience!

 The road ran along the Valley of the Shigar River. Dust and stones were replaced by a riot of green color. You drive along the serpentine, all around are sheer cliffs, rocks and the dirty Shigar River ... and roses from nowhere ... and then green oases of firs, apple trees and apricot trees.

Ascole is a place where civilization has not reached. In addition to well-equipped camps for climbers, the simple life of the Pakistani people flows here.

By the way, the people here are incredibly colorful. Men and children are happy to allow themselves to be photographed, but not women. Women hide and ask to pass by. We have set up our first tent camp and are preparing for tomorrow's march to Jola Camp. The transfer from Ascole to Jola Camp will take 6-7 hours, 17-18 km.  It's too early to say, but so far trekking to K2 can compete in beauty with trekking to the Everest Base Camp.

P.S. The GenKa2 climbing team is looking forward to us at the Base Camp, which is very nice!

Most likely, today we are the last day with a stable Internet. Wish us good luck and stay tuned!

Viktor Volodin and Daria Sivova are in touch.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 4 and 5th. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Yesterday we went to acclimatization in ABC. We walked briskly through the icefall 2 hours from Base camp. We ate and went to bed early.

It started snowing immediately in the evening. By midnight, we were specifically swept up. At 3 we woke up, had breakfast and at 4 in the morning went up in a complete blizzard. With each rope, the slope increased. I had to trail - 10-15 cm of fresh snow fell. Small avalanches were coming down the slope. After 8 a.m. we got out to Camp 1 at an altitude of 6100. There are 6-7 tents stuck here with difficulty. The wind increased almost to a hurricane. So we gratefully stumbled into the empty tents that the Sherpas allowed us to enter. We sat for half an hour, drank tea. We discussed the further ascent to Camp 2. To which our Sherpas shouted with one voice that it was extremely dangerous and it was necessary to go down while the force and the weather allowed.

As a result, we were dumped down into the ABC and then into the Base Camp. The snow never stopped. More precisely, it ended only on the approaches to the base. Here a snowman named Genka was waiting for us for lunch, carefully sculpted by our film crew to our delight.

Tomorrow and the day after tomorrow we rest.

Photos by Arno Ter-Saakov

Today, the team of the 7 Summits Club GenKa2 in full force climbed to the ABC camp (altitude -5300 m). They will spend the night there.  Everything is fine, everyone feels good.

Tomorrow all participants, together with the Sherpas, will move up early in the morning. And at 12:00 they will begin the descent, each from the height that he will take.

Photos by RD Studio (from puja):

Natalia Marinkevich, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Natalia Marinkevich's group "Snow-fish" together with Andrey Berezin's group "Victoria-Pobeda" spent the first day on the slopes of Elbrus. We have worked out the technique of self-arrest, including when breaking down upside down. Classes were held on steep slopes at an altitude of 4000. We also trained the technique of traversing in crampons and with an ice axe.

All participants feel well. Comfortable accommodation and delicious food 4 times a day pleasantly delight future climbers!

The group "Me and my young team" from Skardu are in touch! We got the permits! Hurray! Tomorrow morning we will start to Askole by jeeps. And the day after tomorrow — we have a transfer to Jola Camp.

Unfortunately, most likely tomorrow is the last day when we will have a stable connection. According to the plan, we should arrive at the K2 Base Camp on July 11.

And what happened today? To be honest, it's even good that we stayed in Skardu for another day, because today we visited the Deosai National Park.  Deosai, or the Shadow of a Giant, is the second highest high—altitude plateau in the world, 4300m. Acclimatization was successful! The climb is 2000 meters. In a word, we are well done!

We will not paint for a long time about the beauty of this place. Photos  will say everything for themselves!

Daria Sivova and Viktor Volodin are in touch!

The news is lightning from Iran. The group "Deniski" ascended today in full force the summit of the volcano of Asia - Demavend (567 m). We went up in two subgroups. Now everyone is already in the base camp at 4150 m, recovering from the assault. Tomorrow descent to Tehran. Details follow.

Guides Evgeny Fedyunin, Valery Myasoyedov, Olga Startseva.

Salaam from Skardu!

There is a team name! We are “Me and my young team”! We say hello from hot Skardu!

It's time to tell us what's going on. So, the second day we spend at the starting point of all mountain expeditions - Skardu at an altitude of about 2500m. Today we have not received the promised permits, and we are looking forward to them tomorrow. As the locals say, Inshallah!

   Today is an amazing day! We are celebrating the birthday of the soul of our company — Artem Kolomiets! Artem, we sincerely congratulate you and wish you more travels, your sense of humor and positivity will warm us all the trip!

   Another day and there will be no places left in Skardu that we have not visited. In the morning we went to the Kuchara lakes. And in the evening, Cold Desert was waiting for us, the Cold Desert in jeeps, incredible dunes and the most beautiful sunset. We felt like the heroes of the movie Mad Max. After, we made a short trek to secret waterfalls and apricot trees.

And the evening ended with a festive barbecue and a party in honor of our birthday. Separately about security. Pakistanis are very friendly and welcoming people. Always ready to help, welcome foreigners with great joy and an open heart. Today Pakistan opened up to us from a new side. We look forward to continuing!

Гид Клуба 7 Вершин Евгений Федюнин сообщает из Ирана:

Привет из Ирана! Сегодня у группы "Дениска" простой день, легкий акклиматизационный выход, 300 м над приютом по пути к вершине. Особое внимание уделялось дыхательным упражнениям. Во время привалов наш главный иранский гид Хамид показал ряд приемов для повышения работоспособности легких на высоте. Мы также слушали рассказы о Древней Персии и играли в веселые игры. Наш уважаемый гид Хамид, инструктор IMGA, не только мастер скалолазания, но и отличный организатор. Таких же добрых слов заслуживают наши повара Наргес и Марьон, оба профессионалы высочайшего класса. «Дениски» были приятно удивлены фуршетом, который нам накрыли. А на горячее - жареная форель! Наша любовь взаимна, мы всегда благодарим их от всего сердца и не забываем поздравить с праздником. На день рождения Наргес и нашего гида Париса подарили павловопосадские шали из чистой шерсти. Вот такой день - дыши, вкусно кушай, отдыхай. Завтра - финальный аккорд, рано утром выходим на вершину Дамаванд. Гиды Евгений Федюнин, Валерий Мясоедов, Ольга Старцева.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

 3 July. Salam to all from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gen - 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today we had a puja - the consecration of the base  camp and the expedition. We held a joint puja with our friends from the 8K company. A stupa with decorations stood directly opposite K2, which was almost completely opened at that time. At the end of the ceremony, we were tied with kats - white scarves, and Abramov, as the leader, was solemnly put on a Pakistani hat on his head. And they gave us something that almost all the participants of the expedition dreamed about, something that is not in Pakistan, but we really want it in the mountains and in the heat - consecrated beer!!!

After the puja, the film crew and I went to our kitchen to prepare a festive dinner. Kristina made cod liver salad, Ivan made mayonnaise, and I made borscht. The dinner turned out to be quite festive - we also added puja beer and dried fish brought from Russia to the table.

Tomorrow we go up for a rotation with an overnight stay. According to the plan - overnight in ABC (5300m), and then ascent to C1 (5500m) and above, then descent to the base camp.

Fotos of Arno Ter-Saakov