All news: April 2024

Greetings from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp! Irina Zisman reports: We are healthy. We sleep well, we eat even better, we keep the oxygen level in all possible ways. Today we are getting ready to go out again, we have adjusted the equipment, cats, prepared sausage, cheese, other things and a reasonable amount of toilet paper.

We also did not forget the traditional photo of the entire team, including Sherpas, a Dandy cook with assistants and an electrician (perhaps he has other functions).

 Today's aperitif at 6.30 pm was more restrained than usual: we decided to refrain from raising the already high tone. Then everything is according to plan: SPA treatments with hot towels, a hearty dinner. It started snowing again ... We hope he won't interfere with our plans …

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste from Nepal!  On April 23, the group of the 7 Summits Club "Himalayan fox cubs" climbed to the top of Mera Peak, with a height of 6470 m. The weather was perfect, 5 eight-thousand-meter Summits were visible from the top: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kanchenjunga and Cho-Oyu. After climbing, we descended to Khare, from where we took off by helicopter to Lukla the next day. 

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition, reports from Nepal:

News from Everest. From the team of Alexander Abramov. Our team is acclimating. There was a puja yesterday. The opening of the camp. Many friends come to us every day. There was Valera Babanov, Maksut Zhumaev and the team. Our team has ice classes today. Life in the camp is gradually returning to normal.

While the head of expedition Luda Korobeshko is recovering in Kathmandu, the team continues to work according to plan and send reports on the work done. Irina Zisman and the Team reports:

 23.04. Today we were preparing for tomorrow's exit to the first camp. Part of the team took a walk in the neighborhood, the rest were saving up resources. But the sunny weather turned to snowfall and after lunch we decided to cancel the exit, because the passage of some sections becomes unsafe.

After a short afternoon rest, everyone traditionally gathered at 6.30 pm for an aperitif with lard to maintain tone, morale and oxygenation. After a video call with the head, the spirit, tone and oxygen increased significantly. Our chef Dendy, as always, indulged in gastronomic delights, after dinner with chicken soup and momo it is difficult to reach the tent, so for now we are sitting in a warm, quiet family circle!

The 8000 Club guide Viktor Volodin reports from the Everest Base Camp:

Greetings from Nepal!  Today there was not just a busy day, but a very busy one. So, everything is in order, first we had ice classes. On them, we remembered and fixed the work with the jumar on the ascent and descent along a fixed rope with a trigger device.  We also practiced moving up the stairs through the cracks. Then we had a puja, a blessing ceremony for good and great things. After the puja, ice classes were held again to consolidate the material.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition, reports from Nepal:

Today, the team of the 7 Summits Club has safely reached the Base Camp. Alex Abramov led the column, riding a white horse with the flag of the 7 Summits Club. We were greeted with champagne and red caviar.

The camp shocked all participants with its comfort. We went through other camps. Compared it. We have the best one. We'll take off the camp tomorrow and show you everything.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

Greetings from Nepal from the participants of the expedition on Dhaulagiri! Today we spent the first night at a new altitude - 4700 in the Dhaulagiri valley. On beds with sheets and pillows. However, some participants decided that they did not want to relax too much, and put mattresses on the floor for themselves - this is more familiar. 

We have established a good Internet connection in the camp. In the morning, I realized that I was completely ill. I decided to go down to Kathmandu for rest and recovery. I handed out instructions to the team members. Well, they are all experienced - each has 3-5 eight-thousanders. We decided that the first rotation (overnight at C1 at 5800) they would go without me. But under the strict guidance of our most experienced sirdar Lakpa Makalu. Now our Sherpas have installed C1 and made a cast of C2. The fixed ropes are hung up to the assault camp C3.

After breakfast, the participents walked to the beginning of the route - to the crampons point (where the glacier begins and the crampons put on). And after lunch they put me in a helicopter. So I'm already in Kathmandu. I'm trying to recover. And get back in line.

The 8000 Club guide Viktor Volodin reports from the Everest Base Camp:

Good afternoon, everyone! Today, the 8000 Club team was settling in the base camp. We have a rest day, we check our equipment, admire the beautiful views, make small walk, take care of ourselves, so acclimatization takes place. After lunch, the team of the 7 Summits Club, led by Alexander Abramov, came to the camp. All participants feel well. Dr. Andrey Selivanov also came to the camp and he is already distributing pills for prevention.

Ivan Dusharin was an amazing man. He is always friendly and considerate, and at the same time an outstanding organizer, an authoritative leader. An engineer-inventor, a technician, and at the same time the author of books full of poetic attitude to mountains, to nature, to the fate of man. He has never been among the stars of mountaineering, but any athlete can envy his achievements.

 The 7 Summits Club has always been proud of its friendship with this outstanding man. And especially by the fact that he worked for us periodically as a guide.  We also remember our joint ascents of Mount Everest, Ojos del Salado and Vinson. And, of course, our joint record-breaking campaign "Seven Summits - in less than a year”, in 292 days. This is still the record for the speed of climbing all the highest peaks of the continents by one team. Only singles walked faster.

Namaste from Nepal!  The Himalayan Fox Cubs group continues to acclimatize and prepare for the ascent of Mera Peak. Today we had climbed to the Mera La pass with a height of 5,300 meters. We worked out the movement in ropes on the glacier. Tomorrow we will go to the assault camp at 5800, from where we will go out to storm the summit. The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Sergey Avtomonov.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 Greetings to all from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp at 4700! Today we made a long march from 3600 (Italian Base Camp) to the main Base camp at 4700. It took us 7.5 hours. The path is not the easiest - there are many ascents and descents. So we gained about 1,500 meters in total.

The valley leading to the Dhaulagiri Base Camp is absolutely wild. We didn't meet anyone at all on the way. And the terrain is very similar to Tibet. The route to the Middle Camp is moraines, steep cliffs, dust, waterfalls.

Our camp is very comfortable - large single tents with beds. We plan to rest and acclimatize in the base camp for the next two days.

Namaste from Nepal! The Himalayan Fox Cubs group climbed to a height of 5260 m in the morning. In the plans for acclimatization, and after lunch we mastered jumars and launching devices. Tomorrow we plan to climb the Mera La pass.  The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Sergey Avtomonov.

The team of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-24" under the leadership of Alexander Abramov, in good weather, made the march from the village of Periche (4,300 m) to the village of Lobuche (4,900 m). Everything is fine, everything is going according to plan.

 Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, transmits from Nepal by satellite phone:

 Good afternoon! This is Lyudmila Korobeshko from the expedition to Dhaulagiri. Today, April 20th, we are at the Italian base camp at an altitude of 3600, under the Western face of Dhaulagiri. We've been here for three days now. Yesterday, April 18th, we arrived and took a walk. On April 19th, we had a full-fledged acclimatization day. We climbed up the slopes to the Western Wall. We gained 500 meters vertically. And today is like our final day here, at this altitude, in this camp.

Today we decided to take a walk to several beautiful waterfalls, which turned out to be very close to the camp. However, the path to them turned out to be quite difficult. It was necessary to drop about 250 meters down steeply to the river. And then go to her and gain another 300 meters. We didn't reach the waterfalls, but we had a very good walk.

 We're having lunch now. The weather is not bad. However, clouds are coming up now. And tomorrow, according to the plan, we will trek to our base camp, directly under our route from the North. That is, tomorrow we have to walk 6-8 hours and about 12 kilometers. Everyone feels good. Nadezhda is flying back to Kathmandu tomorrow. And our six will continue their adventures and climb Dhaulagiri. At the moment, we are informed that the fixing ropes ends in the second camp. And even they were made to the third camp. But apparently there were snowfalls and they were a little bit swept up. We're supposed to be at Base Camp tomorrow night. Perhaps there will be more information. And we hope that tomorrow we will be able to connect the Internet. See you tomorrow!

Namaste from Nepal!  The Himalayan Fox Cubs group made themarch from Tagnaka to Khare, where we will spend a few days before climbing Mera Peak.  The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Sergey Avtomonov.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition, reports from Nepal:

 Today, the Everest-24 team of the 7 Summits Club made a march from the Tiangboche Monastery to Periche 4300m.  The weather is perfect. And that's why everyone is in a great mood. Everyone feels great!

Representatives of the 7 Summits Club Alla Mishina and Sergey Seliverstov flew to Kanchenjunga base camp yesterday. According to the plan, they should gradually acclimatize right on the route. However, the processing of the route by Sherpas was unexpectedly postponed. The fact is that the priest lama responsible for the consecration ceremony of the event (puja) has set the date for its holding on April 23. And to this day, the Sherpas do not agree to work on the route. So, our climbers just have to sit in the camp at 5,500 and limit themselves to exits up to 6,000 meters. For one thing, to train patience, the most important quality on eight thousand meters.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal by satellite phone:

  Hello everyone from Dhaulagiri! So, our team arrived at the Italian Base camp under the Western Face of Dhaulagiri yesterday, April 18. Everything is fine! We flew in by helicopter and set up camp here. And we even managed to take a walk yesterday to acclimatize a little higher. The height is almost 3700 meters. Everyone feels good. The night went well too.  In the evening, of course, we celebrated our arrival under a new mountain for us. And now it's a nice sunny morning. The entire Western Face is visible.

According to the plan, we will spend two more nights here. We will acclimatize today, tomorrow, and the day after tomorrow we are going to move to the main base camp. It's more than a kilometer higher. We will go around the mountain a little bit and approach from the north and our route will run completely from the north side of Dhaulagiri. Well, it's very beautiful, very wild. There are no villages here, the nearest village is two days' journey down. That is, everything is fine, hello everyone! All participants feel great.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition, reports from Nepal:

 The team Everest-24 of the 7 Summits Club rested in Namche Bazaar for two days. We have experienced all 33 pleasures of the Sherpa civilization. The group then moved to Tiangboche.

Namaste from Nepal!  News from the 7 Summits Club group "Himalayan Foxes", who are confidently moving towards the peak. We were out of touch for three days (repeater failure). During this time, we crossed the Zatrva-La pass, 4600m high. We went down to the village of Khote through a beautiful spring forest. And today we moved to the village of Tagnak. Tomorrow we will go up to the Khare settlement, where we will have a base camp for the near future.  The guides of the group are Andrey Berezin and Sergey Avtomonov.