Everest 2012

The whole team crossed the border. Now we're sitting having breakfast in Kodari. Here we met Vladimir Zaitsev, who came to make a film about Fyodor Konyukhov. In the evening we will be in Kathmandu. May 28 the first part of the expedition arrives inMoscow. Alexander Abramov and the group of Alpari arrives May 31.

Camp 8300 м

Up to 8300 м

North Col

Alex

Aznor Khadjiev

Sergey Larin

Gulme and Luda

Max Shakirov

Luda next morning

Fyodor Konyukhov

Famous Russian traveler Fyodor Konyukhov ascended Mount Everest at the age of 60, for the second time in his life, his son Oscar said on Saturday.

"Fyodor Konyukhov as a member of the Seven Summits Club team climbed to the top of Everest in 6:15 local time on May 19, 2012," Oscar Konyukhov told RIA Novosti.

The current climbing is timed to a 20-year anniversary of Russians' first ascent of Everest in May 1992. The famous traveler was among the first Russians who reached Everest top in May 11 twenty years ago.

An extensive traveler, Konyukhov has reached the North Pole three times, the South Pole, the Pole of Inaccessibility. He has set world records by crossing the Atlantic Ocean in a rowboat in 46 days, as well as crossing Greenland on a dogsled in 22 hours. He has also made several round the world trips alone on yachts.

Today, the second group of 7 Summits Club expedition reached the summit of Everest. Joe Pratt and Noel Hanna were the first, followed closely by Leila Albogachieva and Vladimir Korenkov (team of Ingushetia). Sergey Bogomolov and Igor Kadochin reached the summit after about half an hour. Now they are going down. We are waiting for them at thecamp ABC.

Seven climbers of 7 Summits Club expedition reached the summit of Everest. It happened at about 5.30 Tibetan time. Alekandr Abramov (4th ascent of Mount Everest), Sergei Larin (5th, it seems), Ivan Dusharin (65 уеars, 3rd time), Fyodor Konyukhov (60), Maxim Shakirov, Ludmila Korobeshko (for all 2-nd), Aznor Hajiyev (1 - s ascent, the first Ingush – north Caucasusmountain people). They were with seven Sherpas. Also, two climbers from Donetsk (Ukraine) went with them in the group.

The second group of our expedition is preparing for summit push next night.

Hello! Alexander Abramov from the camp at an altitude of 8300 meters. We are OK, a few hours later we're going to start our summit bid. The entire first group of seven members and seven Sherpas is here. All are feeling well. There are about 100 climbers are preparing for climb here. Now it would be a meeting of guides in Chinese camp.... We will decide who, when will start. It is necessary that pushed the crowd.

--

According to Max Shakirov, the group will start at 8:00 p.m. Nepal time.

The first group of 7 Summits Club expedition reached the camp 7700 meters. Everyone feels good. Sunny, calm, no wind. Beautiful scenery. We drink tea.

This is our team; Alex Abramov, Sergei Larin (guides), Fyodor Konyukhov, Aznor Hajiyev, Luda Korobeshko, Ivan Dusharin, Max Shakirov and seven Sherpas. Sherpas start tomorrow very early, to set a camp at 8300 meters. We follow them starting about 4 hours later.

The second group stay to the North Col. This is Sergey Bogomolov, Noel Hanna (guides), Leila Albogachieva, Vladimir Korenkov, Joe Pratt, Nathan Schneider and Igor Kadochin.

The route

The first group of 7 Summits Club expedition climbed the North Col. This is Alex Abramov, Sergei Larin (guides), Fyodor Konyukhov, Aznor Hajiyev and the team of Alpari (Luda Korobeshko, Ivan Dusharin and Max Shakirov). The weather is good, no wind.

The second group will climb to the North Col the next day. This is Sergey Bogomolov, Noel Hanna (guides), Leila Albogachieva, Vladimir Korenkov, Joe Pratt, Nathan Schneider. Igor Kadochin may join them if he will feel better. Unfortunately, Kyril Muraviev fell ill (temperature 39 degrees) and he was sent to the base camp.

The summit bid for the first group is scheduled for 19th of May, for the second - on the 20th of May. The weather forecast is good enough. Almost everyone who is on the north side, plans to climb the summit of Everest for these days.

It is the head of 7 Summits-Club Everest expedition Alex Abramov. For the last couple of days there were some events. First, we carried out, after all, a party, some kind of reception devoted to the Victory Day May 9th. About 50-70 people came in our camp. All guests were happy, thanked. Now, we consider, all expeditions of North side know each other, it will be easier to work on the slopes ofMount Everest. The party ended at about half past two in the nights. Really, it was cool. Yesterday we held a tournament on table tennis among members and guides of our expedition. There were six teams, played in pairs. The team ofUkraine, that means fromDonetsk, won. The Fight was hard.

And according to the plan, the first our teams leaves the base camp on 13 th of May. They go to the Middle Camp and farther to ABC. Within the next week our expedition will be is in full readiness for a summit bid.

PARTY

PING-PONG

Yesterday in Tashidzong we held a meeting of guides. The main decision was to break our command for 2 groups.

Assault exits on Everest we plan for approximately May 20 and 21st.

The first group (8 people).
Guides: Alexander Abramov, Sergei Larin.
Members:
Ludmila Korobeshko,
Maxim Shakirov,
Ivan Dusharin,
Fedor Konyukhov
Igor Kadochin,
Kyrill Muraviev.

The second group (7 people).
Guides: Sergey Bogomolov, Noel Hanna
Participants:
Joe Pratt,
Nathan Schneider,
Leila Albogachiev,
Aznor Khajiev
Vladimir Korenkov.

Ivan Dusharin

Kyrill Muraviev

Fedor Konyukhov on the route to North Col

and in Tashidzong

Acclimatization of our expedition is over. All members and guides, except two sick, overnight on the North Col twice. And now we booked a bus and go down to a height of 4200 meters, to the villageof Tashidzong.

We will rest there for three days. Our goal - to restore our lost power. The mood is good. Below we will eat sheep, just relax. Weather Forecast: Snow will continue till the 9th of May, then begin the wind. Normal condition will be only after May 19th. For this time we plan our ascent of Mount Everest.

According to the plan, we wanted to climb MountChangtse by two groups May 5th from different sides.
The first part of our team – from the North Col and the second part - from the base of the mountain, from altitude 6000 meters. This second group had to make a traverse of Changtse and descend to North Col.

May, 4 the first group under the leadership of Luda Korobeshko and Sergey Larin went to the North Col and reached the camp at 4 p.m...

These were:
Sergei Larin,
Kyril Muraviev,
Fedor Konyukhov,
Igor Kadochin,
Jo Pratt,
Luda Korobeshko,
Maxim Shakirov.
Ivan Dusharin

On the same day the second team went down to the bottom of the mountain Changtse. We started from the point 6000 meters.

In the group:
Alex Abramov
Gelu Sherpa Mingma
Noel Hanna
Pemba Sherpa Nurbu
Pasang Sherpa
Dorji Sherpa

By 3 p.m. the team came close to the ridge at height of 6 800m. Not far from this place (400 meters) we planned to put two tents and spend a night. To continue the route in the morning, climb to the top Changtsze (7 680M) and go down to North Col. But this time the weather began to deteriorate sharply.
This is in line with the forecast, but the whole plan of the expedition did not give us the opportunity to postpone the climb ..
In 4 p.m. the weather deteriorated completely. Visibility of 20 meters, snow pounding horizontally, to continue the ascent became meaningless. We began the descent.
Storm raged until nightfall.

May, 5 in the morning, the first team woke up at the North Col.
Bad weather did not allow them to go along the ridge on the Changtsze. For acclimatization, they climbed about 300 meters above the saddles. Wind, snow, cold, zero visibility ...

Both teams are now at an altitude of 6400m, in the campABC. It's cold ..
We drink tea and plan to go down to the Base Camp tomorrow.
We will return to ABC May 12.
And now down to rest!!

The second part of our expedition, the team of Ingushetia, headed by Sergei Bogomolov, climbed today the North Col. Tomorrow they will try to get high as much as possible and descend to Camp ABC.

The first part - North Col

Luda Korobeshko

The second part - Changtse

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition. Today we begin the last acclimatization phase. Alex Abramov, Noel Hanna, Mingma and two other Sherpas, we will try to climb Changtse from the base, from the altitude of 6000 meters. We will overnight somewhere in the middle of route. Today, the second part of our team goes to the North Col. They will spend the night at the North Col, and there also they will climb the summit of Changtse 7580 meters.

In general, tomorrow our two teams should meet at the top of Changtse. And then, the first team, together with the second part will go down to North Col. Thus, it will be Mount Changtse traverse. Probably the first in history. Most likely, such route was not done. And it will be our first step toward preparing traverse Changtse - Everest. Weather ... Weather, frankly, again, is not very good ... The last week there was a very strong wind, even broke some our tents. Now, on the contrary, the wind died down, but it starts to snow. We'll see. While the forecast for today quite good. But tomorrow, the day of the assault - is already bad. There an idea of how it all around: maybe we go at night. Because nights there are usually less snow, colder and less snow. After two days we contact and describe how it was. Good-bye!

From Jan Kielkowski "Nount Everest Massif"

Hello! This is  Alex Abramov from Everest. Today we spent a night at the North Col (7000m). I do not remember  last few years such a heavy night. A very strong wind was, beater, very cold. The North Col, we climbed in the feather suits, and nobody wanted to take them off. Even at night. Now we went down. In the advanced base camp several tents is broken down. A very strong wind was here. But in general, all is as always, I mean according to plan. Before the ascent, we have about 20 days, all things will changed to better. Today, our second team, the team of Ingushetia, goes up to sleep on the North Col for acclimatization. Next in two days, we must once again climb the North Col. Then try to climb the summit of Changtse. This is North Peak of Mount Everest. The height of 7550 meters. Good-bye!

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from camp ABC. For three days we are in the advanced base camp of Everest. Wind is very strong and, in general, such a trap it is. We will not go down, still we want to go to acclimatize to the North Col and Changtsze. Up, but, we could not  go, because in the horizontal field before a beginning of steep slope at the North Col  there is a real hurricane 

Photo of the Alpari Team from alpari-life.ru

It is Alex Abramov from Everest. A few days ago we went down to the base camp, and then our team went on vacation 50 kilometers below the base camp at 4200 meters altitude. There we rested well. We stayed two nights in Tashidzhong, we ate mutton meat, useful for mental activity.

And finally, we reached the ABC camp at the height of 6400 meters. There are very strong wind, then we spent the past two days, two nights here ... Today, the second team comes from the bottom up.
Today our first team conducted studies on the natural ice. On the ice slopes we climbed up, then traverse across the ice, using ropes and went down. So a several times. It was quite useful.
Now on the North Col, where we're going to go to sleep, it is very strong wind. Half of the tent is broken. Our tents are all, because Sherpas have put them down in order to not break. Well we'll see. Well, until we have a plan to spend a night on theNorth Col.

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from Everest. We are now at an altitude of 6400 meters in advanced base camp. This is the first team. The second team is in the intermediate camp at 5800 meters. Weather, in general, it is not bad. The sun is shining, however, the clouds in the afternoon. Today we made a reconnaissance, we want to make a new route across the top of Changtse ascent on Everest. Today we made an exploration ...

Puja ceremony was held this morning. It was a prayer for the success of the expedition. Wind was blowing to the top - up the hill. So, it is time to go up. Now cooks prepare our traditional borshch (beet-root soap). The first group goes up to an intermediate camp, and tomorrow to the Advance Base Camp at 6400m altitude. Today, Semion Deyak has to come back from Dzhangmu. We sent him down with symptoms of acute mountain sickness. We think it is all good now. Alex Abramov.

A trip to Tibet inevitably ends up arriving at the base camp. As the most exciting moment in which we remember the first sight of Everest, from the pass. Here, each participant would like to part with the old life and makes a decisive step into the future.

The Everest expedition 7 Summits Club Everest meets the Easter holidays in the heart of Tibet. We spent a day in the city of Shigatse (3900m). It was very successful day. Nice sunny weather favored sightseeing tour, acclimatization, food intake and religious reflection on the eve of Easter. Next stop is Xegar (4200m).