Everest 2022

The night at the camp 2 was a bit hectic.

The first time I woke up at about ten o'clock in the evening from the fact that B. was hopelessly crying out in the next tent:

- Oxygen! Bring me oxygen! Will someone eventually bring me oxygen?!

And from another nearby tent, Dr. Larin answered melancholically:

- Yes, I'm coming, I'm coming. I'm already putting on my shoes.

Then all night I woke up from a terrible thirst, it's good that there were water supplies at hand as usual. And also from unpleasant sensations in the throat, which began the day before and now turned into some kind of sleep-disturbing cough.

In general, so-so night.

By the morning it turned out that B., who took off his glasses every now and then during the descent, burned his eyes and now sees nothing. A helicopter was about to arrive for him.

The rest of the members of the Khumbu Walking Club gradually woke up and crawled out of the tents.

Whole text is in Russian. Detailed description of the ascent on Everest…

 Photos of Olga Rumyantseva. Everest expedition. The Summit! The Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club has ended. Eight participants, two guides and 11 Sherpas have reached the summit! Read more in our chronicle…

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest. Day 28. May 16. Move to the camp on the South Col. The height is about 8000 meters.  Climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4. Olga Rumyantseva, who usually works as a guide for the 7 Summits Club company, is on the expedition as a participant this time. She reached the South Col with her personal Sherpa Nima at three o'clock in the afternoon.  And at eight o'clock the start of the decisive attempt has already been scheduled…

 Source: Life as an Adventure… (detailed diary of the expedition in Russian)

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 That's the end of our Everest-2022 expedition. Today we had the last presentation of medals to those members who have not yet left Nepal…

 And today I have already discussed with the 10-time Everest climber World record holder Lhakpa Sherpa a new project - The World Woman Everest Expedition WWEE.

Olga Rumyantseva, a team member, Everest summiter:  The morning was unfairly early. At half past six I was woken up by passing yaks, and immediately the morning  wake-up-tea, which I refused as usual. Getting out of a warm sleeping bag into an ice tent was especially disgusting. The consolation was that it had to be done for the last time.

And it also had to be done quickly. Because by seven-thirty in the morning it was necessary to pack all things in bags and prepare for a possible departure.

The first helicopter was expected at eight in the morning. However, looking out of the tent in the morning, we found that the promised bad weather seems to have happened, and the helicopter cannot fly, neither the first nor the second. Everything was shrouded in dense fog.

But a miracle happened, and at nine in the morning, a small yellow helicopter flew to us through a veil of advancing and retreating clouds.

And then, even more miraculously, along the route Base camp - Periche - Lukla - Kathmandu, we teleported to a completely different world.

And already at one o'clock in the afternoon we were sitting in the hotel restaurant.

However, only half of the participants were so lucky. But I hope that the second half will also reach us today.

By the way, part of our team acted even more cunningly. They arrived at the second camp, boarded a helicopter, flew to the base camp. And they were in Kathmandu yesterday, while we were stomping on the Khumbu glacier.

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 The expedition is coming to an end. The entire program of acclimatization and climbing Mount Everest was completed in 30 days. It's fast. Firstly, it is an experience of organizations. The 7 Summits Club has organized more than 30 Himalayan expeditions. Secondly, we had a great team this year. And of course, we were lucky with the weather, the weather window on Everest lasted more than a week.

You can say as in a joke: "just lucky!"

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

That‘s all! The final descent on the Khumbu icefall. And the whole team is already in the Base Camp. The evening turned out to be a great party. Participants and Sherpas gathered. The summit cake was served. Tomorrow we plan to fly by helicopter to Kathmandu.

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 Today, on April 17th at 4:00 am, 8 participants, 2 guides and 11 Sherpas were standing on the top of Mount Everest. Daniel Wolfson and Dawa Sherpa also climbed to the top of Lhotse at 2:30 a.m. 

Immediately after the descent, at 9 am, the weather deteriorated sharply. That's what we were counting on.

Also today is Natalia Bykovskaya's  birthday. Let's congratulate her!

Daniel Wolfson, a member of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club, left the assault camp yesterday at 20-20 (May 16th) together with the guide Dawa Sherpa.  At 2-20 local time May 17th, they were at the top of the fourth highest mountain in the World, Lhotse (8516 m).  Congratulations to our friend, an Israeli mountaineer born in the USSR!

 At 4:10 Nepal time, a message from Alexander Abramov came over the radio:

 Everyone who came out of the saddle (8 participants, 2 guides and Sherpas) reached the top!!!  There is a descent ahead - congratulations are accepted only at the base camp.

List of climbers:

Alexander Brychkin

Natalia Bykovskaya

Veronika Zaripova

Kovalenko Lilia

Kuprichenkov Fedor

Manevich Boris

Motorkin Sergey

Rumyantseva Olga

Guides:

Alexander Abramov

Artem Rostovtsev.

Dmitry Ermakov and Mikhail Kozlov did not go on the ascent for health reasons.

Sherpas guides:

1          Lakpa Gelu Sherpa

2          Lakpa Sherpa

3          Lakpa Ongjuk Sherpa

4          Ngima Dorchi Sherpa

5          Dawa Sherpa

6          Ngima Nurbu Sherpa

7          Dawa Temba Sherpa- LHOTSE SHERPA

8          Rinjin Wongel Sherpa

9          Ngima Thindu Sherpa

10        Nima Dindu Sherpa

11        Nima Ungdi Sherpa

12        Ngima Ongda Sherpa

13        Dawa Chhiring Sherpa

14        Lakpa Gelu Sherpa

15        Mingdukpa Sherpa

16        Milan Sherpa

17        Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa

18        Ngima Ongdi Sherpa

19        Rinjen Sherpa

20        Pemba Nurbu Sherpa

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

The group climbed to the assault camp at an altitude of 8000 meters.  This is the South Col. The participants are resting and preparing for the decisive assault.  The start is scheduled for 21:00 local time (in Moscow it is 18:00, soon). Wish us good luck!

Alex Abramov from the slopes of Mount Everest:

The group got to Camp 3. The tents are standing well. We have eaten well and are resting. Tomorrow at 7:00 the exit to the assault camp at 8000m. Wish us good luck!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

Today, the whole team safely reached Camp 2. Everyone feels good, everyone is determined. After lunch, we plan classes on interacting with Sherpas while moving on a fixed rope and using supplemental oxygen. Tomorrow we move to the Camp 3.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

We are already in the Camp 1 at 6000 m. We walked fast, someone for 8 hours, I - for 9.5. The first time the group went 13-19 hours. This is probably the result of acclimatization, although the path does not feel easier. Heat. Not a little wind. I want to sleep now, but it's hot everywhere. It was a good lunch, we are waiting for dinner. I'm going to take a nap, tomorrow the move to the Second camp. We have satellite Internet with us. Expensive, but we are in touch.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

In the afternoon we arrived from Namche Bazaar. Looking at the forecast. The weather will be deteriorating since the 18th. We decided to leave immediately. It's 23:00 now. In 2 hours we get up and at 3:00 our team goes climbing.  The plan is as follows: on the 16th, climb to Camp 4 at 7900m and start for the summit at night. On the 17th in the morning we should be at the top.

Wish us luck! The connection will be episodic.

13 camp 1

14 camp 2

15 camp 3

16 camp 4

17 summit and descent to camp 2.

This morning Lakpa Sherpa climbed on the top of Mount Everest and became the first woman to do it for the 10th time!  She simply has no competitors.  Lakpa is our old friend, a participant of several of our expeditions. She is the sister of our sirdar, the representative of the 7 Summits Club in Nepal Mingma Gelu.  However, in expeditions Lakpa always works according to its own program. This is especially true of the current one, in which she is accompanied by a small film crew from the USA. Recently, Lakpa managed to "break through the wall", that is, to get to American sponsors. So now it will be necessary to report.

 By the way, Lakpa plans to climb K2 in the summer to "enter the history of mountaineering," as she claims. And there, I think, it will be necessary to add the "Seven summits". We will wait on Elbrus!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

What the Everest 2022 expedition has been doing for the last three days?  While Russia is celebrating May 9, we decided to rest and descended to Namche Bazaar at an altitude of 3600 m. Closer to oxygen. And in order not to get tired, we used helicopters. Upon arrival in Namche, oxygen literally fell on us. At first I slept for 24 hours. And I didn't want to wake up. 

But it's dangerous. I had to get up and go eat. Then there was a bar, billiards, beer....  The usual life of climbers on vacation in Namche Bazaar. Arrival of friends and relatives. Haircut, shaving, sauna and massage. Coffee, croissants, momos and cakes. Then shops, shops, pharmacies, shops. And all this in 2 days. All – we must stop. Tomorrow at 11:00 we fly to BC. The rest is over.

 The forecast changes every day. Today, the first teams of climbers spend the night at the 8000 m assault camp. And at night they go to the assault. According to the forecast, the wind is strong. We think we will be at the summit on May 18 or 19.

The main part of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club descended by helicopter to Namche Bazaar. The team will rest presumably for 4 days to fully recuperate before attempting to storm Everest.

 Olga Rumyantseva: Whoosh. And we are in Namche Bazaar. The air is thick and warm here. And trees grow.

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the group "Touching Everest"! It is all over, almost, except for a small nuance – the participants are waiting for a helicopter to fly to Kathmandu. And the helicopter is waiting for good weather, and the weather is not promised today. Yesterday we descended from the second high-altitude camp to the base camp without much difficulty. The burning sun and accumulated fatigue made it a little difficult to enjoy a walk along the majestic. And today all people are already at a low start towards big cities. Except for the guide, who goes up again at night.

The main team of the 7 Summits Everest-22 Club climbed to Camp-1. The second acclimatization rotation has begun.

Olga Rumyantseva: Today we got up at two o'clock in the morning and again climbed into the first camp through the Khumbu icefall. Well, what? We did it. But for a while there was such a terrible heat that everyone swam. Therefore, the second icefall cross turned out to be physically not easier, but even more difficult. Tomorrow we will go to the second camp.

Some photos from Mingma Gelu