Broad Peak 2022

 Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:

Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan.  Days 26-28. July 26-28. Via Gondogora Pass. Return to civilization. Part 2.

By 9-10 in the morning we came to the Huspang camp at 4600 in a picturesque place on the green near the lake. Then we had a snack, took a break and decided to go to the Saicho camp (3500). But instead of the promised 5-6 hours, we went 7-8 in the end.  But in places it was very picturesque: first, a glacier with ice-mushrooms, cracks and waterfalls; then a side moraine with grass and flowers. Then came herds of cows, goats and sheep. At some point, the Masherbrum (K1) suddenly opened - wow, a terrible mountain - beautiful, but it's scary to imagine how to climb there.

 At the end, almost Baltic landscapes began - sandy areas among coniferous forests (thuja, juniper) - aromatherapy is real!!!!

Closer to 6 pm we came to the camp. It feels like there was a cool campsite here, but during the recent heavy rains and floods on July 7, most of the camp was washed away by mudslides…

We had a quick dinner and soon went to bed to the sound of the beginning rain.

 In the morning, in a couple of hours, along a convenient (albeit blurred by floods) scenic trail, we moved to the village of Khushe. Everything is over – then Jeeps, civilization.

An hour later, we were visiting our chef Ibragim in the neighboring village of Kande (his sixth child was born just 3 weeks ago while he was in the exp).

We looked at the house of a real Pakistani, or rather a Baltistani - everything is very functional, unfurnished, women and men live in different rooms, pets on the first floor, people on the second. We tried real Baltistan tea. At first I thought that this tea was pink because of the Himalayan salt. By the way, there is a huge salt mine in Pakistan, one of the largest in the world. But it turned out that spices give this color to tea…

Hushe is also famous for the fact that there are a lot of snow leopards in these places. Even tours are arranged here specifically to watch at these animals.

An hour later we were at the palace. Here Serena also did her best - they made a hotel out of a hundred-ring palace in the town of Kaplu. And around - apricot orchards. We pick and eat apricots, recover, get vitamins.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:
Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan. Days 26-28. July 26-28. Gondogora Pass. Return to civilization. Part 1.
After resting in BC on July 24 and waiting for Israfil to return from Broad Peak, we planned to leave BC on the morning of July 26. We decided to go back not along the classics (as we were climbing up), but along a shorter path - through the Gondogora La pass. These are two overnight stays instead of 3-4 on the way, but tougher.

On the first day of July 26, we walked from BC Broad Peak 3 hours back to Concordia. And it's almost 6 hours from Concordia to Ali Camp, already in another gorge. We spent the night in Ali Camp at an altitude of 5000 m in an interesting place - under a rock near a glacial lake. And at one o'clock in the morning on July 27, we stormed the Gondogora pass in full uniform - cats, gazebos with zhumars and self-insurance, helmets. However, a third of the people went without it and even managed to pass the pass.

Two hours - approach under the fixed ropes with the crossing of the glacier. Two hours on the fixed ropes - and we are at the pass. There are stunning views here - K2, Broad, all Gasherbrums, in the other direction - Leila Peak and the entire Khushe gorge.
At the highest point we met Vova Kotlyar - he was walking with his SST group along the same route. We took a photo (Vova took timelaps) and began the descent. More precisely, at first we were horrified when we saw where and how to go down - steep and very long abseiling on the scree slope. While we were mentally preparing for the descent, just then a huge avalanche descended - at a fairly safe distance from us, but still impressed.
We descended normally, only a couple of times large stones came down from above, but it worked out.

Gondogoro La is a pass that we were a little afraid of (they tell us everything about it), but which we really wanted to pass.

By 7 pm, Alex came down to Camp 2 completely tired. It turned out that he took an active part in the descent of the victim. Chileans passing by, also exhausted to the limit, thanked Alex and called him their teacher.
Alex said he was wildly tired and wanted to stay overnight at Camp 2. I began to persuade him to go down to the BC, assuring him that in 2-3 hours we would do it even in the dark. As a result, for an hour and a half in the dark, we went down to Camp 1 and realized that there was no strength to go further and it was dangerous (the lower part breaks through most of all with stones).
In general, we spent the night in Camp 1 and went down to BC early in the morning on July 23. There were also enough adventures on the way - the ropes were half worn out, the station hooks fell out. And a suitcase stone whistled a meter away from Sasha (Sasha immediately remembered the story on Aconcagua with a girl whose leg was torn off by a stone). Fragments of this stone also reached me, but they hit the backpack and not much…
By breakfast we were already in the camp. Warm and cozy. By the evening of that day, George also went down to the base, accompanied by heroic Latin American climbers and several porters whom Akbar sent up.
In the evening, a festive dinner and barbecue were arranged in honor of the climbers and the miraculous rescue. Everything was fine. Only one thing worried - how was Israfil going alone to the top that night? It seems like no one else was going to storm this night...
P.S. - this morning on July 25, Israfil was already in BL - he came down late last night!!!
July 25. Today we went to BC K2 to say goodbye (tomorrow we go down through Gondogora Pass). We congratulated Volodya Kotlyar on the summit of K2, listened to his stories about this difficult ascent. Stones are flying, stones… He was going to Gasherbrum-2 after Chogori, but it didn't seem to work out.... We'll probably go down together tomorrow. We talked to Nims and congratulated him on the successful ascent of his entire team to K2. They not only climbed in, but also shot a movie! We met Dava, the head of SST in our T-shirt (the three of them - three brothers - went to Antarctica with us this year) - it's nice. They also have a large part of the team going to the top of K2. We caught a glimpse of Harila - she was climbing K2 on the same day with Vova. Now she will go to the Broad and Gasherbrums - the Iron lady!
The weather has deteriorated sharply today. Most of the expeditions are being curtailed. Good luck and patience to those who still continue their ascents here!
Well, we ... into the hustle and bustle of cities and traffic....
Until the future mountain!

Exploration on Broad Peak, Pakistan. Days 19-23. July 19-23. Part 3
About 2-3 nights (when Alex and I were trying to get out) at an altitude of 7800-7900, Canadian Andy, going to the assault, met a Romanian who had already spent the second night at this altitude. Andy gave him all his water and food and stopped his own ascent. Around 4 am, almost at the same height, the Romanian was discovered by Israfil Ashurli and a Chilean couple. As a result, Israfil decided to lower the Romanian and stop his attempt to climb. Israfil has long impressed me with his amazing human qualities - willingness to help, deep decency and correctness in everything. As a result, Israfil quite successfully lowered the Romanian alone to a height of 7300-7400. At 10 in the morning, he informed us that he was letting George down, but when Sasha asked if he needed help, he said that he didn't and that they would be at the camp in an hour or two. Then the connection disappeared.
At about 15.00, an exhausted Israfil came to Camp 3 and said that he had been fighting with a Romanian for the last 5-6 hours - he tried to give oxygen, which was brought from below, but he refused. I tried to lower the victim further, but he fell into an inadequate state. In general, the story began to look a little like the "Miracle on Everest" - the case of Lincoln Hall in 2006 in our Everest expedition.
At this point, Jorge from Chile stayed with George, but he, too, is already at the limit. I need help.
Alex and I said we were ready to go. To be honest, I thought that a group of high-altitude porters and strong climbers would gather now. But in the end it turned out that only three people were ready to go - Alex, Magda and I (a Polish climber, by the way, who attempted an assault that night and therefore tired). The rest were absolutely nothing after the assault attempt
Magda delighted me - she ran ahead to help an unknown climber, although she was very tired herself. I ran after her, or rather we crawled down the slope like snails. But stubbornly. Alex followed me out a little later. An hour later, the weather suddenly deteriorated sharply - a strong cold wind blew, a blizzard began. I realized that I had taken the rescue lightly - I dressed lightly (we went out at 16.00, when it was still hot).
Days 19-23. July 19-23. Part 4
Two hours later, two figures appeared on the slope. The closest to me was Jorge, who had already spent 5-6 hours with a Romanian and was very tired. When I got to the Romanian, I gave him some water and talked to him for a while. Soon Alex came up and we somehow lifted George to his feet and began to lead him down, he walked a little and sat down. Okay, Jorge came over and started helping too. Together with Alex, they very slowly pulled off the Romanian. Soon another Chilean came up from below. The three of them descended a little faster. I walked ahead and helped with fixed ropes, sometimes gave George tea. He refused Dex and oxygen …
In general, this story with the descent lasted for 3 hours. Already in the dark we came to the camp, where other Chileans warmly welcomed us, put the Romanian in a tent and thanked us for a long time for the descent of their comrade…
In this story, I was struck by the behavior of Chileans. In principle, George was not their friend, but they bought a tour from the same company and sat at the same table with him in BC. However, they did everything to save him.
By the way, the story didn't end there.
It is clear that we did not go on any ascent that night. And going to the rescue, I already understood that I was unlikely to have the strength to storm. In the morning Israfil came to us to talk about plans. He was determined to try again. We, after a little consultation, refused. I definitely did not feel the strength in myself, and the motivation somehow disappeared… We gave Israfil the leftovers of food and snacks, deciding that we would descend in a few hours and without food, and around 11 a.m. we began the descent.
And at the same time, a group of Chileans undertook to lower the Romanian further - the helicopter does not fly at such a height.
After seeing that the Romanian was being lowered by 5-6 men, I decided that I had nothing to push there and went ahead. After 2 hours I was already in Camp 2. I had a timid hope that Alex would not become a hero again - yesterday's rescues are enough, and he will soon catch up with me. But, of course, this did not happen. 2 hours passed, I heated the water, then two more, three more ... all hopes for a descent to the BC and a comfortable overnight melted.

Exploration on Broad Peak, Pakistan. Days 19-23. July 19-23. Part 1. So, on July 19, Alex and I started from the BС (4800) at about 2.30 am. We also went straight up to the Camp 2 (6000). It took about 7-8 hours. After 10 a.m. we were already in the camp in our RedFox tent. It was unbearably hot during the day. We decided to leave our downy half-suits in Camp 2 (mistake! There are no warm eight-thousandths). By evening, a rumor had spread through the camp that a trio of climbers had fallen on the crest of Broad Peak. Then, however, it turned out that one person, an Englishman, broke down and fell towards China…

On July 20, we went out early so as not to walk in the heat - around 4 am. In 5 hours we reached Camp 3 (7000). This part of the way technically seemed easier to me than the previous - also quite steep fix-ropes sections, but more in the snow. But even here the camp is on a steep slope - it is dangerous to walk between the tents without crampons. On the way we met Polish climbers from our camp - they were already descending after a successful ascent the previous day. In general, many descenders said that it was better not to climb - there are no fixed ropes after the couloir (7800) this year + very dangerous cornices and a dangerous long summit ridge.
In the camp we met Israfil, who was preparing for the ascent next night. And Saulius, who went from the top, but it took him more than 26 hours (he says he hardly ate or drank and was very weak on the descent). On average, climbers go to the summit of Broad Peak from camp 3 to camp 3 in 16-24 hours. For comparison, on Everest, they go from the assault camp to the assault camp for 8-12 hours, but they do not stay in the assault camp, but descend to approximately 6400. Immediately, almost everyone barely crawls after the summit to the assault and spends the night here again.

They usually go out to start at 7-10 pm. Alex and I decided to go out around midnight, hoping for oxygen. We wanted to do some kind of "feint with our ears" - we arrived late and made only one acclimatization rotation up to 6000 (hoping that the lack of acclimatization could cover oxygen). All the others made 2-3 rotation exits with overnight stays at 7000 m .
We went to bed around 19.00. And then it began…

As soon as I fell asleep a little, a terrible delirium began, from which I immediately woke up and was already afraid to fall asleep again, so as not to fall back into this horror with a split or even a personality disorder. After all, the swelling of the brain caught up with me. Not surprising - the first night at 7000, and before that only one for 6000 is not enough for me.
At midnight, the alarm clock rang. I didn't want to eat at all, only I was tormented by an unbearable thirst. Somehow I got ready - it seems like it took forever. We took two oxygen cylinders, turned on 2 liters and went. Backpacks turned out to be 10 kg each. But mine seemed terribly heavy to me. I could barely walk. After about 40 minutes, I told Sasha that I wouldn't get there in this state. Since we initially agreed that if one turns, then the second one too, Sasha did not try to persuade me much and also turned down with me.
What happiness it was to lie down in a warm sleeping bag, turn on oxygen and sleep until the morning, until the sun at 9 o'clock lit up the tent. Breakfast also seemed divine to me.
In general, I felt good. To consolidate the result, I walked above 200-300 meters - my health and speed are normal. After going down, I discussed my plans with Sasha. We decided to make a new attempt tonight.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:

Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan. Days 14-18. July 14-18. The days of rest in the BC Broad Peak quickly passed after our acclimatization rotation. At first, the weather was just disgusting - snow, rain, fog. Yesterday (July 17) the weather improved and many climbers went to the upper camps with the hope of an assault in the coming days.
During the rest, we managed to walk under Pastor Peak in the side gorge, visited BC of K2 a couple of times, met Kotlyar, Nims, Garrett Madison. Israfil and Saulius with the Polish guys went to C2 Broad Peak last night. Today they have to reach C3 and tonight (Monday to Tuesday) - to storm the summit. We are leaving the base tonight, tomorrow July 19 - C2, the day after tomorrow July 20 - C3, July 21 - according to our plan, we are going to storm Broad Peak.

I walked today to BC of K2. It's about an hour up the glacier from our BC Broad Peak. Firstly, the views are amazing. Just as I was approaching the camp, the clouds began to disperse and Chogori appeared in all its glory. Secondly, the K2 camp site itself is very beautiful, there are a lot of Nepalese companies and as a result - a lot of stupas with flags (it can be seen that pujas were held). And thirdly, while I was wandering around the camps, Nims noticed me and invited me to visit. The elitexped camp is really the best here - a whole cozy town of large sleeping tents, several common tents, kitchens, flags and logos of Nims and his company everywhere. Even cups in the dining room with personalized logos.

Like in our camp, everyone is waiting for the weather. In a couple of days, according to the forecast, there will be an improvement. July 19-20-21 are the approximate summit days for K2 and Broad Peak.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Today is July 15th. Broad Peak. Pakistan. 8056 m . Having successfully carried out acclimatization, we went down from Camp 2 to Base Camp on the 13th. It is on the 13th that Volodya Kotlyar, who performs a secret mission on K2, has a birthday. Two base camps, Broad Peak and K2, came to congratulate him. He turned 34 years old. The limit of youth that he had set for himself. Now adult life begins. Volodya, a great voyage for a big ship!
The weather in Pakistan does not allow us to think about the future yet. All the slopes were covered with snow. The snow has fallen even in BC. We are all sitting in tents. We read books, watch movies, make love. Who has what opportunities....

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
There is no Internet here, neither satellite nor mobile. The whole sky is overcast. It's raining. Luda and I spent a night in Camp 2. And today, under the roar of avalanches and the howling of blizzards, we were able to descend to the base camp of Broad Peak. Today is July 13th. Since July 17th, everyone here expects good weather. I have a different opinion. The weather in Pakistan this year is not encouraging. There are still no fixed ropes to the top of Broad Peak. And on K2 in general, ropes were hung only up to camp 3.

Now Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko are on acclimatization rotation on the slopes of Broad Peak.  We bring to your attention photos from trekking to the base camp.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, from Pakistan:
We came to the base camp of expeditions on Broad Peak. This is already good news. The bad news is that so far not a single person has climbed Broad Peak. Today, Furtenbach's team has already gone home after an summit attempt. It ended a little above Camp 3 due to the large amount of snow and no fixed ropes.
It looks like Lyuda and I came just in time. Everything is just beginning.... By the way, the food here is excellent. And the camp is very comfortable.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Greetings from Pakistan from Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko! Have you lost us? We were out of touch for 4 days. The satellite failed. And the local connection appeared only on July 7, in Concordia. So, from July 4 to July 7, we moved from Ascole (a village at 3050) to Concordia (a camp at 4500 with a view of K2 and other eight-thousandths). On the way we spent the night in the camps of Jola, Payu, Urdukas. The last two crossings were the longest - 9-10 hours on the Baltoro glacier. But the beauty is indescribable! Tomorrow we plan to make a short trip to the base camp of Broad Peak. Then - rest and acclimatisation rotation on Broad Peak.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Pakistan:
Exploration expedition on Broad Peak, Pakistan. Day 3. The third of July. Hurray! The documents are finally ready. In the morning we left Shigar in the direction of Ascole. On the way, we slowed down in almost every village - our driver greeted his friends and proudly showed that he was carrying foreign tourists. Two hours later we stopped to buy chickens. For the first time we saw how live chickens are put on the scales and discuss weight and prices for a long time, and chickens calmly flaunt on the scales. Around lunch, we had a snack with traditional food of the Baltu peoples - rice, lentils, vegetables and meat - essentially the same Nepalese dalbat. In general, the Baltu, Sherpa and Tibetan peoples are very close, languages and traditions are similar.
About two o'clock we stopped, before reaching Ascole a couple of kilometers - the road was washed out here. We had to move things to other Jeeps. We walked a little bit to Ascole - the views are gorgeous! The village is very picturesque, with sharp snow peaks all around.
This is the last major settlement on our way. There will probably be no further communication until the very BC - day 4-5. See you soon! Don't lose us!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:

Exploration at Broad Peak, Pakistan.  Day 1. The first of July. At 4 a.m. we landed in Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan, where we were warmly welcomed by one of the brothers Saed - Anwar. A few cups of Pakistani tea (mixed tea with milk and cardamom), a few photos for memory, and we are already flying further to Skardu (2450), a town in Baltistan, from where expeditions to the Karakoram mountains begin.

It's also hot here - about +25-30 (well, at least not +45, as in Islamabad). The road from the airport is blocked by strikers, we are going to detour. Half an hour later we arrive at the Summit Hotel in Skardu, give the documents to the military to obtain permits and fall asleep.

We wake up around 15.00, have a snack with mixed fried rice, which we have loved since Tibet, and go to buy gas and other small things. However, Friday evening is a Muslim day off - many shops close early. Therefore, we just decide to relax and go to the barber shop to clean up. Sasha shaves, I take pictures, five more locals just sit next to each other and talk to the hairdresser and us. The owner of our hotel brought us to the barbershop. On the way, he told me that three years ago in the winter, a Russian expedition to K2 stopped with him (apparently, it was with Artem Brown).

A short walk before going to bed - through the noisy streets of Skardu, very close to the noise of the Indus water ... Tomorrow, if the documents from the military are ready, we will go to Ascole. Or we'll wait here for another day.

P.S. We met Nims on the way to Pakistan. First on the poster, and then in person.  We agreed to meet again in a week under K2 and Broad Peak.