Lenin Peak 2022

For the fifth year in the summer, our friends from Nepal come to the mountains of Central Asia to work on our seven-thousandth Lenin Peak and Khan Tengri. These are different students of the 7 Summits Club, employees of our Himalayan expeditions. At one time, we recommended them to our partners at the seven-thousandth. Now they no longer need recommendations. We are a little proud of it! And the fact that we are not forgotten, from time to time they are sending greetings for us  from the mountains!

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Our group made a second attempt to climb the peak of 7134 m. The forecast has not been very good for several days! A chance to climb to the top is possible for a sports-trained group. On August 15 at 3:30, when the wind is least according to the forecast, we leave Camp-3. Many groups went out to climb on this day. But around 7-8 in the morning, the groups turn around, we try to go further. The wind, about 35 km / h, does not knock you down, but you have to fight, snowfall, creating visibility of no more than 25 meters. Experience and patience - let's move on. We pass the knife by 11-12 o'clock in the afternoon, everything is covered with fresh snow, we have to trail...

By 13:30 we reach the beginning of the ascent to the plateau, the height is 6850. Visibility is even worse, we are guided by rocky chain. We make an informed decision to turn around and go down, for a number of significant reasons. Tired, exhausted, we got to Camp-3, moved into tents and sleep.... Today we went down to Camp-1, the participants got acquainted with the avalanche danger closer than we would like, a small board came down over the "Frying Pan"... It's snowing in the Camp 1 now. The mountain shows itself! Treat the mountains with respect and awe...

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Our group made an attempt to climb Lenin Peak. The wind forecast for 6500 promised 30 km/h, but in real life at 6200 the wind was so strong that we were thrown down the slope.  We decided to go down to the third camp. Tomorrow the forecast is a little better, we will try again.  But the gap in the weather for the next few days is not visible at all! The weather changes every day and what we see on the websites, unfortunately, does not correspond to reality! And now we're playing a guessing game. The mountain shows character and does not allow climbers.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The group of the 7 Summits Club climbed to Camp 3 at a height of 6100. The assault on Lenin Peak is planned depending on the weather.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The team of the 7 Summits Club climbed to the Camp-3 at a height of 6100. This is the final rotation before the summit assault.  The weather is sunny but windy. We are resting now in tents. Tomorrow we will return to Camp-1 for rest and preparation for the ascent.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Camp 1 Lenin peak is in touch! Today  we held much-needed classes on ice this season! We learned how to use the jumar and the "basket", mentally thanked the French for these devices! We have worked out the movement in crampons on the glacier and now we are deservedly resting, recuperating! At night we go out to Camp 2, there will be no connection there. The weather is windy, the mountain shows character! We can only hope for the best.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the first camp of Lenin Peak! Today, the group made an acclimatization rotation to the peak of Yukhin 5100. We caught the Internet at the top, and then learned how to climb down the snow-covered scree! The day passed productively. Everything is the same in the camp, the Internet barely smells, but at least the food is delicious! Tomorrow we have an important day, ice training!

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the first camp of Lenin Peak, from our group. We reached the height of 4400. We were lucky with the sun, the weather is starting to please! Tomorrow we are planning an acclimatization rotation, but for now we are resting and gambling.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Lenin Peak base camp, from our group! We got there! And apparently we are not alone... The camp is full of people, because it's snowing at the high slopes now and everyone is resting here. But if it's snowing there, what do we have? That's right, it's raining!!! Tomorrow we will try to catch the weather before lunch and go to the crest of Petrovsky Peak for acclimatization.

Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan: Greetings to all from Camp 1 of Lenin Peak! Another day of rest in the camp! At night we admire the stars and prepare to go out to storm the summit.
Our plan is as follows: July 21: Camp 2, July 22: Camp 3, July 23: summit day.

Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings to all from the slightly tired but satisfied group from the first camp of Lenin Peak! Yesterday we climbed to the peak of Razdelnaya 6140 m and for better acclimatization spent a night in the third camp, while spending the most wonderful sunset in my mountain memory! Emotions were off the scale even for me!!! Today we went down to the first camp, having overcome the very 100 meters of fixed ropes down, feeling like real climbers who had ice piton pulled out! Everyone is healthy, happy, we are starting the main part of the program - a two-day rest. While everything is going according to plan, the weather is pleasing, we are basking in the sun! Tomorrow we are planning an easy weekend walk! It's July 18 and we don't know what's going on in the world, how good it is! All the best, follow the news!

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Nikita Slotin from the slopes of Lenin Peak:

Hello everyone from the height of 5700!  Yesterday our group went up to the Second camp! At first there was a difficult section of the 100-meter fixed ropes, where the participants had to exert all their strength. Then, on the "Frying Pan", we walked hard in the heat and got to the camp for lunch! We were greeted by a comfortable camp, with a large dome tent as a dining room. Now we are already moving to the peak of Razdelnaya! The strongest participants are ahead, the girls and I are having fun slowly, dancing, going up, admiring the butterflies flying by.

Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings to all from the camp-1 Lenin Peak! Today we conducted an important part of the program, namely ice training! We walked with ropes on the glacier, learned how to overcome cracks, climb on fixed ropes with jumars and descend on a "glass". The weather is sunny. Tomorrow we plan to go to the second camp.

Guide Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings from the group "All on 215" from the Lenin Peak base camp! Today there was a sunny but extremely windy day! During a walk to the crest of Petrovsky Peak, everyone was blown away! But this did not prevent us from climbing to a height of 4018 meters, admiring the still surviving hanging glaciers and taking beautiful photos. For tomorrow, the Internet does not draw rosy weather, but we will move to the first camp! Soon there will be no normal communication...

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "All on 215"!  We are here and we are happy!  Along the way, we admired marmots carrying their mortal carcasses into their burrows... We saw the northern slope of the mountain, were pleasantly stunned by the views and went to dinner.  We are well placed in comfortable large tents, picked up the missing equipment and smoothly depart... Not what you thought, let's go to rest! It's windy in the camp. Tomorrow, according to the plan, an acclimatization rotation to the crest of Petrovsky Peak at 4000.

Guide Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:
Greetings to all from the city of Osh! Our program of climbing Lenin Peak begins! Today the participants arrived, and before lunch they were recovering from a sleepless night on the plane. We checked our equipment, got acquainted with the peculiarities of the local mentality, and went to the pool! Then there was dinner, we celebrated the meeting! Tomorrow we are scheduled to move to the base camp at an altitude of 3600 meters.