Ecuador 2023

Anastasia Kuznetsova, guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club reports from Ecuador:

I remind you that there are 10 volcanoes in Ecuador above 5000 m and only one of them above 6000 m, it is also the highest peak of Ecuador and the furthest point from the center of the Earth - Chimborazo volcano (6310 m). Chimborazo is a project mountain and the dream of many climbers. I must admit that recently, for one reason or another, the groups on Chimborazo remained without the summit, to our great regret. One of my tasks was to figure out what is wrong and why the participants fail to reach the top.

   I received a certain acclimatization, although the group and I did not climb 2 of the 3 peaks, but high-altitude overnight stays were made and acclimatization rotations were made. The logistics at Chimborazo is built in this way. First you come to the administration of the National park. You show your permit and the residence permit of the guide (you can climb according to the rules only with licensed guides), you draw up the necessary documents. Then you go to the parking lot at 4800 m, where there is a shelter, but few people use it, because now local residents are responsible for it and it is sparsely populated and uncomfortable.

   Basically, all climbers make the march from a parking lot at 4800 to a high-altitude camp at 5,300 m. Moreover, as a rule, everyone goes at once in assault boots and carries all their belongings on themselves. And although the move to a high-altitude camp is considered easy (like 2-3 hours on a gentle path), but the drop of 500 m and the height itself above 5000 m has not been canceled. Most climbers come to the camp already tired, and after a few hours they go to the assault, so it is a great recommendation to negotiate in advance about the services of high-altitude porters. We immediately include this in all our national team programs, and I used this service myself, which allowed me to come to the camp light and not get tired on the way.

The start was scheduled for 23.00, so that there was a reserve of time, and so that there was an opportunity to go at your own pace. The sunset was excellent, but at the exit the weather was so-so (strong wind, intermittent precipitation and lack of visibility, but in Ecuador the weather changes every 15 minutes, you can't guess in advance and it's almost useless to look at forecasts). The guide called the weather a bad word, but decided to go anyway.

 We dressed warmly and went. On Chimborazo, first there are approaches to the slopes of the volcano along rocky ridges with elements of climbing, then several long snow-covered steep slopes with cracks (it seems that this will never end). Then the last steep part ends and it seems that here it is the top (marked with an inconspicuous rod), but this is only the second peak (6200 meters with something), and there is still an hour's journey to that cherished one along the next hard part, and there is no sign at the very top, nothing. Only snow on the rounded top!

To say that I would not have ascended without a guide is to say nothing! Edgar Parra understood everything and did everything to get me up. He carried all my heavy things, dressed and took off my mittens when I was no longer able to do it myself, said that I was walking very well when I was almost unable to move, smeared cream and gave tea, dragged me on a rope when I periodically fell into a semi-comatose state after 6000 M. On the other hand, if I didn't have such a goal and motivation to go to the top, then he alone would hardly have brought me there. That is, it was still a team effort - my desire and his experience.

When we were descending and I was impatient to get to the camp as soon as possible with shaking legs and hands, Edgar decided to show me another cool thing – via ferrata, which he and the guides from the local mountaineering federation punched. "Just show" did not work! He strapped me to it with a rigid safety harness and told me to get down. I realized that until I descend from this cliff in boots with cats on my arms and legs shaking after the mountain on iron brackets and a stream flowing down from above, there is no chance to reach home. What can you not do to just let them let you go!

Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Ecuador:

News from Ecuador, climbing the Cayambe volcano. Hello everyone! Today, the culmination of the program is an assault on Ecuador's Cayambe volcano (5790 m), the only volcano with a glacier located on the equator line.

The day before, we arrived at the Olea Ruales shelter later than planned, but went to bed early. We decided to go out in two teams with an hour difference. As a result, everyone met about 4 hours after the start of the first team.

A lot of teams started from the shelter that night, there was not a single empty seat in it. As a result, somewhere in the middle of the route, team after team began to turn around due to avalanche danger. We stayed the longest, left the main route to the ridge, where the ascent is more difficult, but safer from the point of view of avalanches. We climbed up to 5400 m by dawn, 300 m remained to the top of the most difficult section - a steep glacier with open and closed cracks. The steep climb took more time and effort. We decided to stop, fix the altitude and start the descent back until the hot equatorial Ecuadorian sun melted the glacier like butter. For most of the team members, it was the first experience of such a height! Everyone is very impressed!

After the mountain, we moved to a hotel on the shore of the picturesque volcanic lake San Pablo in the area of the town of Otovalo.

Today there will be a farewell dinner and tomorrow departure to the airport and then who goes where. The guys are flying to the Galapogos to get acquainted with Ecuador in all its manifestations.

I'm going further along the rest of the volcanoes, there are 78 of them in Ecuador!  I will tell you the details in the next issues!

The news was written by Anastasia Kuznetsova, manager of the Ecuador direction. Photos and videos from the team's super-guide Boris Egorov. We are not saying goodbye!

Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Ecuador:

Hola from Ecuador! Today we said goodbye to the beautiful hacienda La Cinega and its eucalyptus groves and headed closer to our main goal - Cayambe volcano. But, along the way, we will have another stop for the night in a beautiful place - the thermal springs of the Pappayakta Valley, originating from the Cayambe and Antisana volcanoes. Cascades of baths with mineral water of different temperatures in a blooming garden and views of volcanoes are very similar to a paradise where you want to stay longer.

On the way to Pappayakta, we wanted to taste a local delicacy - "kui" in one of the local "kui", but something stopped us, in the end we decided to abstain and have lunch at the hotel.

Tomorrow there are extensive plans - the birthday of one of the band members (the author and ideological inspirer of this trip) and moving to the shelter of the Kayamba volcano, from where the group will have to storm this key peak.

Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Ecuador:

 In the morning, we left the capital of Ecuador - Quito early and moved towards Machachi (local Chamonix), where there are many volcanoes large and small around. Today, the plan was to continue acclimatization on the next volcano - Iliniza Norte (5127 m), with a height comparable to Ararat. We have to get to the refuge at 4800 m, spend the night there and go out on the mountain in the morning.

On the way to Iliniza, we stopped for rent and had lunch at one of the authentic Machachi restaurants, which turned out to be very useful before going to the shelter with a 900 m climb (the march from 3900 to 4800 m). On the way to the refuge, panoramas of the volcanoes of Cotopaxi, Antisana, Cayambe, Corazon (translated as heart) were opened. At sunset we reached the Nuevos Gortzontas shelter at 4800 m. For many members in the team, this is the first experience of a night in a mountain shelter and the first night at such an altitude.

We got up early in the morning to go to Iliniza. But, the weather did not please. A cloud hung over the mountain and all the slopes were wet and dusted with snow. We decided not to go to the top along the rocky route along the ridge, but to walk along the saddle in order to acclimatize better.

As soon as we left the refuge in the direction of the valley, the weather began to improve, the clouds dispersed, the sun came out and all the snow on the slopes instantly melted, as if nothing had happened.

 After a night at the refuge, we had lunch in a traditional Ecuadorian restaurant and rest in the ancient hacienda of La Cinega. The hacienda itself is a unique atmospheric place with a rich 400-year history. This estate has been owned from generation to generation by one family, starting from Marquis Mateo, that is, from 1695 to the present.

This estate has witnessed important events in the history of Ecuador, establishing itself as one of the oldest and noblest mansions in the country. Important people stayed here, including Alexander Humboldt, the founder of botanical geography.

And now our group is resting before moving on towards the Cayambe volcano.

Hola from Ecuador! How can you start the day so that you have enough energy for the whole day? For example, go to a yoga studio early in the morning. There, Master Santiago will quickly teach you how to do all the asanas deeply and correctly.

But, the main info-reason, of course, is not this one. The group finally reached the volcanoes and made their first acclimatization climb on the volcano Ruco Pichincha, which overhangs Quito with its slopes. For most of the members, this was the first high-altitude experience. Everyone did a great job! Although, for many it was not easy at all! We were very lucky with the weather! As soon as we got back down, a couple of minutes later a heavy downpour began.

On the way we saw parama (high Andean steppes), the famous "Ecuadorian Edelweiss", a lot of Andean rabbits and, of course, a bird on the top, which has already become a symbol of this place.

Tomorrow we leave Quito and go towards the next volcano Iliniza Norte.

 Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Ecuador:

Today we continued our acquaintance with the capital of Ecuador - Quito, which means, of course, "the center of the world". And the name of the country Ecuador, as it is not difficult to guess, means "equator".

The morning began in the Gothic cathedral, on the Condor tower, from where you can see the whole of Quito and its symbol - the statue of the Virgin Mary with wings towering on top of the hill.

Then we got lost in the colonial streets and squares of Quito, looked into the Franciscan monastery, where an ancient brewery still exists and operates, got to a local festival, had lunch in a traditional restaurant overlooking the main square of the city. And at the end of the day we stood, of course, on the equator line with one foot in the Northern Hemisphere and the other in the Southern Hemisphere.

Tomorrow we climb the mountains! Our first volcano is Ruco Pichincha.

Guide and manager of the 7 Summits Club Anastasia Kuznetsova reports from Ecuador:

Finally, the whole group is assembled and we begin our acquaintance with Ecuador with a visit to the cloud forest of Mindo. Cloud forest is a zone of equatorial rain forest stretched along the western slope of the Andes at an altitude of about 2000 m. Moisture evaporates over the Pacific Ocean, rises and settles in the form of thick clouds along the Andes ridge at about these heights. A dense blooming lush forest with lianas, bromeliads and tree ferns among the clouds looks mysterious and mysterious.

Mindo is the closest nature reserve to Quito with such a natural area.

There are many different activities for every taste. Someone rafts on a local mountain river, someone feeds a hummingbird with sweet nectar, someone watches butterflies and orchids.

We went hiking through the rain forest to a series of waterfalls, reaching the starting point on the local version of the cable car through the blooming valley.

The highlight of the day was a visit to a local farm where handmade chocolate is made from cocoa, which is grown right here. Already on the way we were knocked down by the magical rich aroma of freshly made hot chocolate. Then we participated in the process of making chocolate from the very beginning, from tasting fresh coffee beans, a bit like lychee. Next comes their fermentation in special trays under the open sky. In small farms, fermented grains are fried over a fire in a large cast-iron frying pan, fried grains are peeled and rubbed with a stone in a stone bowl. It turns out 100% cocoa bean paste without any additives.

Next, the paste is heated, various incredible additives are added and poured into molds for chocolate bars.

Of course, we didn't leave until we tried all kinds of pure 100% chocolate and chocolate with additives of lemongrass, mint, coffee, dry tropical fruits, orange, black pepper. The husk also goes into business. It makes a wonderful tonic drink.

In general, the day was a success!

Greetings from Ecuador! News from the team of Rustam and Ivan. On November 6, 2023, the guys climbed to the high-altitude camp of the highest peak of Ecuador - Chimborazo volcano (6310 m). Rustam reports that, unfortunately, he felt ill here because of altitude sickness. There was a fever, weakness, low oxygen. It looks like there are enough mountains this time.

The first signs of weakness appeared already at the entrances to Chimborazo, but despite this an attempt was made to climb. The night at the base camp showed everything. It was decided to turn around. Rustam writes that he is generally satisfied with the overall results of climbing the third peak of Ecuador, but it would not be a wise decision to take risks and move on. It was a difficult but rewarding experience.

 Now Rustam has safely descended from the mountain and is preparing to return home. The main conclusion is that it is necessary to concentrate only on the main goal - Chimborazo, without climbing other volcanoes. They really take a lot of energy.

We draw conclusions. Let's move on.

News from Ecuador. The team of Rustam and Ivan are going according to their plan. Before Chimborazo, the guys will have to climb first Kayamba volcano (5790 m), then rest and only then climb Chimborazo. It is very important to find that line and balance between good acclimatization and physical fatigue. It is very important that before the main peak you are well acclimatized and full of energy and strength to perform the main task.

The guys reached the top of Kayambe volcano (5790 m). Congratulations to Rustam on his achievement! According to Rustam, it was a powerful challenge and he felt better this time!

Now it is very important to rest, sleep and gain strength for Chimborazo! The preparation stage is over, we are nearing the key moment!

Meanwhile, while the Alexander-Franklin bunch acclimatize and practice under the icy rain on the slopes of the Kotopaxi volcano, the team of Rustam and Ivan, only about 20 km away, ascends the neighboring Ilinitsa Norte volcano (5126 m) in excellent weather conditions (sun and light clouds).

But, despite favorable weather conditions, according to Rustam, if an unprepared climber goes to this mountain, he will have an "adrenaline shock".

The guys "took a normal walk to the top", the whole day was full of ascents and descents. That was awesome! Everyone feels good! In the photo and video we can see that the Cotopaxi volcano is still erupting.

And after a successful ascent, of course, a well-deserved rest and recovery before the next peak!

On the second day of your stay in Ecuador, for further acclimatization, you can choose a small volcano that you like more. One of the most popular volcano is the Pichincha Volcano (4696 m), which hangs directly over Quito itself and in clear weather from the top there are stunning views of the capital of Ecuador. From Quito, you can climb here first by the Teleferico cable car up to 4200 m and then walk along the marked trail to the very top. Many Ecuadorians and tourists like to spend time here on a good day.

Our Rustam continued his acclimatization here, accompanied by a guide Ivan. An unexpected (but hopefully pleasant) meeting with a representative of the local fauna took place at the top.

Alexander climbed another volcano, about an hour and a half drive from Quito, Guaga Pichincha (4776 m). He's a little taller and there are fewer people here. It was quite cloudy and a solid cloud cover began above 3500 m, so this time it was not possible to shoot stunning shots from the top. But the mood is excellent and the acclimatization process is going according to plan.

 And everything is still ahead!