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The expedition team of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club left the K2 base camp and began the journey home!

This morning our team left the base camp and began the long journey back home. They will have to walk the familiar path along the Baltoro glacier to Ascole, the first settlement to which the highway approaches. We remind you that on July 27 ... read more

This morning our team left the base camp and began the long journey back home. They will have to walk the familiar path along the Baltoro glacier to Ascole, the first settlement to which the highway approaches. We remind you that on July 27 and 28, two teams of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club ascended to the top of K2 in the number of 8 participants, 2 high-altitude operators and 10 Sherpas. There are 20 people under the leadership of Lyudmila Korobeshko. The ascent took place in bad weather, with a poor condition of the route. A lot of material has been shot for the future film "The H Altitude Gene 2. K2". We are waiting for the heroes at home!

 

 

 

 

 

And now CONGRATULATIONS! The participants of the third group of the expedition, summiters of K2, safely descended to the base camp. Happy victory!

Group No. 3 consisting of Lyudmila Korobeshko, Daniil Briman, Valery Tebiev and Arno Ter-Saakov safely descended to the base camp today. The weather on the mountain predictably and finally deteriorated, the descent against the background of ... read more

Group No. 3 consisting of Lyudmila Korobeshko, Daniil Briman, Valery Tebiev and Arno Ter-Saakov safely descended to the base camp today. The weather on the mountain predictably and finally deteriorated, the descent against the background of incredible fatigue was not easy. But now when everyone is assembled, you can celebrate, receive awards and congratulations. And get ready to go home in a good mood. We are waiting! The participants of the first-second group have already started the trek down the glacier.

 Photos and videos from the RD Studio team.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A little more to wait... The first two groups of climbers on K2 descended to the base camp. The third spends the night in Camp-2

There is still a little time left before the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 will be completed. It is necessary that the third team (Lyudmila Korobeshko, Daniil Briman, Valery Tebiev, Arno Ter-Saakov and their ... read more

There is still a little time left before the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 will be completed. It is necessary that the third team (Lyudmila Korobeshko, Daniil Briman, Valery Tebiev, Arno Ter-Saakov and their escorts) descend safely from Camp-2, where they stay after reaching the summit, to the base camp. The happy winners from the first two groups, Ekaterina Safronova, Maria Oglobleva, Dmitry Moskalev and Bartolomey Pachosky, have already been welcomed at the base. Before relaxation, there is a little patience and a little luck left. We are waiting for the heroes!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alexander Abramov on the first results of the expedition to K2: 20 people from our expedition reached the top

On July 27 and 28, two teams of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club ascended to the top of K2 in the number of 8 participants, 2 high-altitude operators and 10 Sherpas. There are 20 people under the leadership of Lyudmila Korobeshko. The ... read more

On July 27 and 28, two teams of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club ascended to the top of K2 in the number of 8 participants, 2 high-altitude operators and 10 Sherpas. There are 20 people under the leadership of Lyudmila Korobeshko. The ascent took place in bad weather, with a poor condition of the route. But we did it. The start was from the Camp-3, as the weather did not allow the route to be fully processed before the start. 

Nevertheless, the whole team of climbers reached the top.

This is a great achievement, since Mount K2 is the most difficult eight-thousandth mountain in the world. And this is the most massive ascent of K2 in the history of Russian mountaineering.

 

 

 

 

 

The third group of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club went out to storm the summit. The participants of the first two groups safely descended with a victory!

Tonight, third part of our team started for the summit push. The group consisting of: Lyudmila Korobeshko, Arno Ter-Saakov, Valery Tebiev, Daniil Briman and our high-altitude operator Luis Lopez. The summiters of K2 of the first wave ... read more

Tonight, third part of our team started for the summit push. The group consisting of: Lyudmila Korobeshko, Arno Ter-Saakov, Valery Tebiev, Daniil Briman and our high-altitude operator Luis Lopez.

The summiters of K2 of the first wave Ekaterina Safronova and Maria Oglobleva safely descended to the Camp-2.  Dmitry Moskalev and Bartolomey Pachosky stayed overnight at Camp 3. Everyone is resting. Tomorrow they plan to go down to the Base Camp.

Summit! The first members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club reached the top of K2

Message from RD Studia: There is a K2 summit! Maria Oglobleva, Ekaterina Safronova and high-altitude operator Vladimir Kotlyar just now have climbed to the top of the most difficult eight-thousandth mountain in the world! Good luck to them ... read more

Message from RD Studia: There is a K2 summit! Maria Oglobleva, Ekaterina Safronova and high-altitude operator Vladimir Kotlyar just now have climbed to the top of the most difficult eight-thousandth mountain in the world! Good luck to them on the descent!

A little bit later. Dmitry Moskalev and Bartholomew Pachosky are on top! The weather is getting worse, they are waiting for an unsafe descent. We pray!

 

The first group of our expedition went out to storm the summit! They are right behind the team of Sherpas opening the route

Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition on K2, reports from Pakistan, from Camp-3: At 18:00, the first team left the third camp to storm the summit. Right in front of them is a team of Sherpas hanging ropes. There is a lot of snow. ... read more

Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition on K2, reports from Pakistan, from Camp-3:

At 18:00, the first team left the third camp to storm the summit. Right in front of them is a team of Sherpas hanging ropes. There is a lot of snow. The Sherpas failed to set up Camp 4 due to bad weather. The season on K2 is very difficult. Weekly snowfalls. Short windows of good weather. Now the weather is average lousy. It's snowing at Camp 3. Although all the surrounding peaks are open. We pray for the friends. Good luck today!

The second team is planning an assault tomorrow evening.

 

Camp-3

 

Today, the third group of our expedition went up from Camp-2 to Camp-3. In the photo, overcoming the Black Pyramid

 

 

 

Photo from RD Studio. The weather is good below, all the mountains are open, except K2

 

 

 

The decision was made to go on the assault! The first two groups went up to Camp-3, the third to Camp-2. Good luck!

Well, the ascent continued. The first two groups spend the night in Camp-3 (7400), the third in Camp-2 (6600). The path to Camp 4 has already been trodden and equipped with fixed ropes. Tomorrow, the leading team of Sherpas will continue ... read more

Well, the ascent continued. The first two groups spend the night in Camp-3 (7400), the third – in Camp-2 (6600). The path to Camp 4 has already been trodden and equipped with fixed ropes. Tomorrow, the leading team of Sherpas will continue processing the route in order to reach the top on July 27.

 Lyudmila Korobeshko (Group-3):

They went out to storm, moving to Camp 2 on 6600. There was no good weather for a week. It seems to be getting better now.

Now at lunchtime on July 25, we came to Camp 2 on K2.

 

 

 

Vladimir Kotlyar, high-altitude operator (Group-1):

Today, according to the forecast, there should be bad weather, but to our joy, the forecast has not yet been justified.

At six in the morning, we got out of the tents, put on the crampons and harness, then and climbed up in the hope for the best.

If this weather lasts for four days, then we have every chance. There is a mountain, you have to climb!

 

 

 

 

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2. July 24. The third group went up to Camp-1

We haven't waited for good weather yet, but there is still hope. Today our third group went up to Camp-1. And groups 1 and 2 continued to "sit out" in Camp-2. Tomorrow is a key and decisive day - either up or down to rest and wait for ... read more

We haven't waited for good weather yet, but there is still hope. Today our third group went up to Camp-1. And groups 1 and 2 continued to "sit out" in Camp-2.

Tomorrow is a key and decisive day - either up or down to rest and wait for the weather window.

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2. July 23. Bad weather on K2 everyone stayed in their tents

Bad weather has descended on K2 again. Rain in the base camp, snow along the route. The first and second groups are together in Camp-2, and the third remained in the ABC Camp. While waiting for news. There is a very strong company of ... read more

Bad weather has descended on K2 again. Rain in the base camp, snow along the route. The first and second groups are together in Camp-2, and the third remained in the ABC Camp. While waiting for news. There is a very strong company of Sherpas on the route, whose task is to make a route to the top. And it is possible that they will succeed.

 

 

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the Club 8000on K2. July 22. The third group went on the ascent, the first two are in Camp-2

Today, the final, third group headed by Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko set off on their way to the summit of K2. They will spend the night in the ABC camp and tomorrow they will presumably go up to camp-2. The first and second ... read more

Today, the final, third group headed by Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko set off on their way to the summit of K2. They will spend the night in the ABC camp and tomorrow they will presumably go up to camp-2.

The first and second group are in Camp-2. Everything is fine with them, tomorrow they will go to the Camp-3.

Vladimir Kotlyar, high-altitude operator: We are in the second camp, altitude 6550. The weather is bad, for the second day in a row. A lot of snow has fallen. Yesterday there were several avalanches along the route, but we were not hooked, almost. We are idling in a tent, baiting stories. Tomorrow we will make our way to Camp-3.

 

 

 

 

 

The second group of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 began the ascent

The RD Studio team reports from the base camp: Yesterday, July 21, the second group, consisting of: Maria Oglobleva, Ekaterina Safronova and Bartek. They went out into the rain. And higher it is already snowing. Bad weather again on K2. ... read more

The RD Studio team reports from the base camp: Yesterday, July 21, the second group, consisting of: Maria Oglobleva, Ekaterina Safronova and Bartek. They went out into the rain.  And higher it is already snowing. Bad weather again on K2. The news from the first group is good. They are already in the first camp, the height is 6100 m. They are doing well!  Today, the third group headed by Alexander Abramov is going up.

 

 

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2. July 20. The first group went on the ascent!

July 20. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! The suspense with the fixed ropes is already pretty boring. Therefore, in the morning we went with Abramov to the ... read more

July 20. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!  The suspense with the fixed ropes is already pretty boring. Therefore, in the morning we went with Abramov to the camps to talk with the leaders. We had a very productive conversation with Ozzy (an Ecuadorian from SST, we had just been to Makalu with him). As a result, at 14.00 in BC K2, a general meeting of all the leaders was held, at which a new team was assembled for hanging the ropes and the release dates of this team were determined - July 22 so that they would come to the top on July 24.

 Based on this, we have developed our plans.

  1. Team 1 - Bogomolov, Moskalev, a high-altitude operator and 3 Sherpas are released on July 20. The peak is July 25.
  2. Team 1.1 - The twins and Bartek are released on July 21. The peak is July 25.
  3. Team 2 - all others are released on July 22. The summit is scheduled for July 26.

By the evening, the first three were on their way.

 The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2. July 18. Trekkers and Valdis Pelsh came to the base camp

Deputy head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan: All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "H Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! After breakfast, Alex Abramov arranged oxygen ... read more

Deputy head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "H Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!

After breakfast, Alex Abramov arranged oxygen classes. Refreshed our memory of how to use oxygen equipment. And after lunch, the second group of trekkers, led by Sveta Kotlyar and Sasha Spirin, came to visit us. Yead of the RD Studia Valdis Pelsh also arrived with this group. He plans to stay with our expedition and make some live broadcasts for Channel One. The way to us was not easy - 6 long marches under the scorching sun and rains. But the team  overcame it!

In the evening, a "Guitar in a circle" evening was held in a large tent - the trekkers brought with them a guitar bought in Islamabad. We knew that Sveta sings well. But the fact that Dmitry Moskalev has a good voice and a cool repertoire has become a revelation for many.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

 

 

 

 

 

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2. July 12-17

July 12. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! The most persistent celebrated the meeting on the Elbe all night - the meeting of our expedition and trekkers. In the ... read more

July 12. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!  The most persistent celebrated the meeting on the Elbe all night - the meeting of our expedition and trekkers. In the morning it snowed again.

The trekkers decided to try to pass through Gondogoro La after all and left our camp at 11 am. And we just got some not very good news from above - our entire Camp-2 was blown away by the wind. 8 tents are missing. 5 seem to have remained. The gas is all gone.

In general, we decided to postpone the exit for one more night. 

 July 13.

Due to the lack of tents, we decided to go out in two groups. The first is 9 participants and 6 Sherpas. This morning, immediately to Camp-1, overnight, then to Camp-2, overnight, then exit to Camp-3 and immediately down. The second group of 3 participants and 2 Sherpas - ABC, C1, C2, down.

 The hurricane raged all night. Our tents were almost torn in the camp. The toilet was torn after all. We got up at 4 in the morning. They tried to put a toilet. In vain. Let's go wake up Vladimir Kotlyar and congratulate him on his birthday. He seemed pleased. At 5 a.m. we went out with a strong wind. By 7 in the morning they came to ABC. We rested a little and went to the first camp. In 4-5 hours we went from 5300 to 6100. There's a problem with places here. There is nowhere to put tents - about 10 tents were barely huddled over the abyss. We were accommodated in 3 tents for 3 participants. And two more Sherpas.

We rest, eat, acclimatize. Tomorrow we will go higher.

 July 14th.

The night in Camp 1 passed quietly. The wind died down. It was even hot. In the morning, everyone woke up long before 7 o'clock - it was at this time that the general rise was planned. We had breakfast and left before 8 am. On the way, we admired the views, who could. The ascent became steeper, there were many rocky areas and mixed. By 11-12 days we came to Camp-2 under the fireplace. It was hardly possible to place 5 tents here. The toilet is a quest again - on a steep slope you have to somehow manage to do something.

After lunch, we decided to make an acclimatization rotation. We climbed 300 meters vertically. On the way, I had to climb the chimney  - everyone was impressed here - 50 meters of almost vertical mixed climbing with flowing ice. But the rest of the route was much simpler and the views are very beautiful - both Gasherbrum, Broad Peak, Masherbrum, Chinese Summits were opened…

We went down to dinnertime to our Camp-2. Having dinner, getting ready for bed at 6600. Tomorrow morning we will go down to the BC to rest and prepare for the decisive assault on the summit.

 July 15th.

We woke up at 6600 in Camp-2, again earlier than planned. At 6 o'clock there was a start according to the plan, but most did not sleep well at this height and at 5 in the morning they were ready to go down. The weather in the morning was not very cloudy and windy.

Around 7 a.m., the descent began. Near the first camp we met our second group with Sergey Bogomolov, Dmitry Moskalev and Volodya Kotlyar. They walked briskly up. By 10 a.m. we were at ABC. We drank tea and rode to the sun for lunch. Kristina was waiting for us here with a film crew, Coca-Cola and - most importantly - with compote!!!

We returned almost whole and healthy.  Only Arno was slightly touched by a stone on the descent, another whistled very close to Daniil, and I managed to fall into a crack not far from BC - I got off with one wet foot!

As it turned out, during the three days of our absence from the camp, the popularity of our expedition doctor Andrei Selivanov increased significantly - a Pakistani princess began to come to his office - that's how we dubbed her. In fact, this is a famous Pakistani climber from the family of a Pakistani government official, Naili Kiani. She has already climbed 8 out of 14 eight-thousand meters. Of the Pakistani ones, only Broad Peak remained to her.  And the next morning news came that rescue work was underway on Broad Peak…

 July 16.

In the morning, everyone slept off after a difficult acclimatization exit. Although the weather forecast was expected to be good, it started raining in the morning. By lunchtime, our second group - Sergey, Dmitry and Vladimir - came down to the camp. The guys worked out their program well and returned satisfied with the results.

After lunch, Alina Pekova came to visit us. This modest girl has gone 5 eight-thousand meters in three months and tomorrow she goes to the sixth - Broad Peak. And then - it looks like K2 and further on all 14. What to say? You can only take off your hat!

A beaming doc came to dinner and boasted that he had just pulled out a tooth of one of the Sherpas, who had been suffering with a bad tooth for a long time. In general, our expedition doctor Andrey is a resuscitator. But here in the camp under K2 he has to face various problems to restore the health of participants in fact of all expeditions:

Yesterday I did a blockade to a Pakistani who fell and got a compression fracture; I was struggling with the asthma of a participant from Estonia who went 4 eight-thousandths without oxygen and now wants to go to K2 without oxygen too…

 July 17.

The morning began at 4.00, when a messenger from the trekking group from the Goro II camp came running and said that oxygen and a doctor were urgently needed, as one of the group was ill. Oxygen was sent urgently, and the doctor came down later.

There was a lot of fuss and commotion, but when mobile communication appeared, it turned out that our group of trekkers was already doing well and they were moving normally to Concordia.

In the afternoon, we held talks with our sirdar about plans for installation of high-altitude camps. So far, the ropes are only up to the Camp-3 (7400 m), plus 8 tents and gas flew away from us in the last bad weather, so it's difficult to plan the upper camps. And according to the forecast, the weather will worsen again soon.

But in the evening, the twin sisters pleased us - they cooked stuffed peppers and mimosa salad!

In touch - the leaders of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The expedition team of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 quickly and safely descended from Camp-2 to Base Camp

The expedition team of the 7 Summits Club on K2 spent the night in Camp-2 at an altitude of 6560 meters. Starting early in the morning, all participants went down to the base camp by 13 o'clock. At this point, the acclimatization rotations ... read more

The expedition team of the 7 Summits Club on K2 spent the night in Camp-2 at an altitude of 6560 meters. Starting early in the morning, all participants went down to the base camp by 13 o'clock. At this point, the acclimatization rotations are completed, the team will wait for a favorable weather period to storm the summit.

Alexander Abramov: Mount K2 is exhaustingly difficult and heavy. It seems there are no direct difficulties, but the whole day the climb is at 45 degrees and the relief is mixed. Snow, rocks and ice at an altitude above 7000 m.  In the photo, Camp 1 is perched on a rocky ledge. All night there's ice flying from above, well not rocks. Stones were flying on the ice that year.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on K2. The main part of the expedition went up to Camp-2 at an altitude of 6600 meters, and will spend a night there

On July 13, at 5 a.m., the group of the 7 Summits Club "GenKa2" left the base camp. After 2 hours we came to the ABC camp. Then, at 8 o'clock, we started climbing and at 12:30 we reached Camp-1 at an altitude of 6100. The weather was ... read more

On July 13, at 5 a.m., the group of the 7 Summits Club "GenKa2" left the base camp. After 2 hours we came to the ABC camp.  Then, at 8 o'clock, we started climbing and at 12:30 we reached Camp-1 at an altitude of 6100.  The weather was sunny, but there was a strong wind.

 After the rest, on July 14, the group continued climbing at 8 a.m. and by 12 o'clock reached Camp-2 at an altitude of 6550-6600 meters.  Everything is going great so far. Tomorrow, a small ascent up, presumably to the end of fixed ropes and descent to the base camp. And then there will be preparation for the assault on the summit.

 

Camp 1

 

 

 

 

We drink teas with sherpas in C2 for 6600. 

 

The final acclimatization rotation of the 7 Summits Club team on K2 has begun

The participants of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 went out early this morning for the next, according to the plan, final acclimatization rotation. The whole team safely ascended to Camp-1 at an altitude of ... read more

The participants of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 went out early this morning for the next, according to the plan, final acclimatization rotation. The whole team safely ascended to Camp-1 at an altitude of 5500 meters.  Everyone feels good. The combined team of the best Sherpas continues to equip the route. Tomorrow our group goes up to Camp-2, where it will spend the night and on July 15 everyone should go down to the base camp.

 

 

Kristina Kozlova: We didn't sleep all night today. There was a strong squally wind, even the toilet was blown away. But this did not change our plans, and early in the morning the team went to the last acclimatization rotation!

 

 

 

The diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on K2. The first sunny day, the day of decision-making and meetings with the first trekking team

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan: July 11th. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today was an eventful day. ... read more

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 11th. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today was an eventful day.  First, finally, the weather has improved. The sun came out (although it was snowing all night, which was not in the forecast).

Secondly, we held a meeting of the leaders of all the expeditions to K2 about the joint hanging of the fixed ropes. We agreed to join our efforts. So according to the general plan, a joint team of route workers will start above Camp 2 on July 14.

Thirdly, our first group of trekkers arrived in the evening. We thought they would be completely exhausted after so many transitions in the rain and snow. And they turned out to be cheerful. We arranged a joint buffet and dancing. Many were previously familiar with joint expeditions. And some people have just met. Uncle Vitya (Viktor Volodin) brought a rare copy of moonshine of his own production. Dasha brought us the most long-awaited - coffee and a little tequila.

Tomorrow we go up  for three nights. Trekkers will most likely go towards the Gondogora La pass in the hope that it will be opened (the weather has improved after all).

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on K2. The weather is stabilizing life is getting better, but there are questions

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan: July 10th. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! The weather has improved ... read more

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 10th. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!  The weather has improved slightly today. But clouds and gusty winds still prevail. K2 in the clouds in the morning. After breakfast, we rearranged the tents after the snowfall and attended a puja at Gareth Madison. Then we had a bath day

We had burgers for lunch. Last night they brought two beautiful bulls.... Today, as a women's team under the leadership of Kristina, we cooked a great dinner - soup with meat, Potato Crumbs with minced meat and Greek salad.

It is unclear whether it will be possible to get out tomorrow - the weather is still very unstable and the slopes are avalanche-prone…

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.