Everest 2023

 On May 21, 2023, an unprecedented event for Russian mountaineering took place: "Snow Leopard", climber Vitaly Lazo became the first Russian to use skis to descend from the highest point of the planet. He started from a height of 8845 meters, which is only three meters below the top.

The ascent, organized by the 7 Summits Club, was made by Vitaly together with the Snow Leopard Anton Pugovkin, his friend of the Freeride in the Death Zone project (climbers storm the highest mountains of the planet, followed by skiing). Everest became the fifth eight-thousandther.

The team climbed on the summit with a special mission, which you can learn about by watching the documentary "Oxygen 2. Everest", which has been shooting for more than three months in partnership with Gazprom-Media Holding and its companies: Central Partnership and Red Media.

On the descent, Vitaly Lazo needed medical help, he was evacuated from Camp 2 to a hospital in Kathmandu. Anton Pugovkin feels well.

⠀Vitaly Lazo (VK): Hello everyone!  Our latest news is on May 22, I was evacuated from a height of 6500 meters to Kathmandu. Now I am in the hospital with a diagnosis of "cerebral edema" ... I am much better... I am on the mend, I will be discharged in a day and on the 26th, in the morning, I already plan to be in Moscow…

Yesterday, the participants of the project "Deathzone Freeride" Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin climbed to  the top of Mount Everest and safely descended to Camp 2.  And today, together with their entire team, they flew by helicopter to Kathmandu. This year, all the climbers who have been declared by us and received permits have made successful ascents to the top of Mount Everest!

Congratulations to Alexander Abramov on his twelfth ascent to the highest peak of the planet! And also with the successful leadership of the group with one hundred percent summits!   This time, most of the ascent took place during daylight hours and the filming turned out to be more than usual. Watch and listen…

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

So, today the Everest team of the 7 Summits Club flies from BC to Kathmandu. I want to sum up. A difficult expedition. Everyone was sick. Not everyone was able to recover. 6 people at the top. 11 people have already died this season. 100 got frostbite.

Our expedition is the best. Not a single injury. Probably due to the colossal experience of the organization. I have the 12th ascent of Everest. I was even praised for it. We will continue to work. And ahead of K2, where our team of 17 participants is starting in 3 weeks.

Anton Pugovkin:  There are 44 days of the expedition behind me and we already want to put an end to it. Therefore, after 6 hours we go to Camp 2, at 6300. Then, according to the plan, on the 19th C3 (7100), on the 20th C4 (8100), on the night of the 20th to the 21st we go out to storm the summit, well, there's a matter of technique. What we need, yes, in principle, everything is there, except that a little bit of luck definitely won't hurt. See you later!

Friends, we received a message via satellite that Alexander Abramov's team has climbed Everest!  Alexander Abramov became a 12-time Everest summiter today!

Now there is a descent, so detailed information will be later.

 The president of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The whole team has climbed 8100m. We are going to storm at night. At 22:00 local time (19:15 Moscow time), the team starts to climb the highest mountain on our planet!

 The Assault Team of the 7 Summits Club:

 Alexander Abramov - head of the expedition

Ilya Alyoshkins

Andrey Golov

Kazbek Gulmagomedov

Alla Mishina

Andrey Polyakov.   

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

We are in Camp 2. View of Camp-3 at an altitude of 7100 m, the crest of Mount Everest and the summit of Lhotse.

The second day of good weather, which is promised for at least another week.  And the second day of climbing to the top of Mount Everest. Our group is going up to Camp-3 tomorrow. Everything is according to plan and without haste.

Sergey Bogomolov went down yesterday from Camp 3 to Base Camp. Full of emotions. Alexander Abramov shot a video with him, who had not yet had time to take off his overalls.  Sergey Georgievich climbed to a height of 7100 meters. "It doesn't happen easily", ahead of the continuation of preparations for the summer expedition to K2.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Our vacation is over. Yesterday, the whole team returned to the Everest Base Camp.  The wind was blowing hard. The wind has calmed down today. And today, the Sherpas have posted a route to the top. And already the first climbers set off on their way to the top of Mount Everest. Our team does not want to get into traffic jams on the mountain. According to the forecast, 10 days of good weather are ahead. Therefore, our exit is scheduled for May 15 and according to the plan, the top is on the 18th. While the whole team is in the ranks. We are preparing for a heroic assault.

Guide Alexander Abramov, Lena Abramova, Andrey Selivanov.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

 The little holidays have passed. Several trekking groups passed through our Base Camp. 50 people exactly. Not counting numerous friends and members of the 7 Summits Club. All this time the team was resting down the valley. The wind was at the summit of 50-85 km per hour all the days. Clouds raced across the sky like torn "Crabs".  And now our prolonged rest is coming to an end. The wind has weakened.

From 6 to 12^th of May we warmed up in loggias and ate from the belly. Everyone was able to recover and overcome the cough. The whole team is healthy and ready to go. Now that's it: the last stage of the expedition begins. Climbing the summit of Everest. The plan was approved.

On the 12th we fly to BC.

13th and 14th preparation.

On the 15th, Camp 2. 6400m.

On the 16th, Camp 3. 7100m.

on the 17th, Camp 4 - The South Col 7900.

On the 18th, the Assault on the summit of Mount Everest 8848.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The team is resting at the Rivendell Hotel, which is located at an altitude of 3800. We met the Makalu team. They celebrated Igor Smirnov's birthday and the Victory Day May 9. Fry The Potatoes. And we celebrate the release of the book by Luda Korobeshko "The High Altitude Gene 2. A woman's look".

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Yesterday, our team, having completed the 2nd acclimatization rotetion, flew to Namche Bazaar for a rest.  Here, at an altitude of 3600 meters, we have planned to spend 4 nights. Everything that was and will be in Namche will remain in Namche. In the meantime, watch photos and videos from acclimatization and with helicopter flights.

The members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club are on the second, final acclimatization rotation. At this time, the head of the expedition, Alexander Abramov, is at the base camp and supervises the preparatory work for the upcoming assault on the summit of Mount Everest.

Alex Abramov:  Today is the day of preparation for the ascent in the BC of Everest. Food for high-altitude camps. For each day, for each participant, a package with food. The same was considered and planned to supply  oxygen. Tents and everything you need. Tomorrow our team will fly to Namche, where they will spend 4 nights to recover.  On May 10th, return to BC and on the 12th, the start of the ascent.

While we relax.

Team "Masala Tim"

Guide Alex Abramov

Doctor Andrey Selivanov

BC manager Elena Abramova.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The team of climbers of the Everest of the 7 Summits Club reached the Second Camp at an altitude of 6400m today as part of the second acclimatization rotation. Plans to spend the night here. Tomorrow the team is expected to go to Camp-3 7100m to complete the acclimatization program. It's snowing now, but good weather is expected tomorrow.

Then the team is scheduled to descend to Namche Bazaar for a rest and prepare for the final climb to the top of the world, Mount Everest. The ascent is planned for the period from May 17 to May 25.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Today, on May 2, the team is quietly preparing for a new exit. Tomorrow at 3 am we will start for camp-1 6100m. The plan is to climb to Camp 3 at 7100m in 3 days and then descend to Base Camp on May 6th.  On May 7th, the team will fly to Namche Bazaar for a vacation.  And the ascent is scheduled for May 12-13.  Today, the Cats team, led by Artem Rostovtsev, came to visit. Cats turned out to be models, so we temporarily postponed our men's classes. A game of chess and cards. It's a pity, but at 2 a.m. we leave the Base Camp. The weather is good.

Today our friends, Everest climbers Igor Demyanenko and Jamila Murtayzina also came. It was a good meeting. Our Base Camp is turning into a Noah's Ark. Not a day without new guests.  Another good news. Sergey Bogomolov was discharged from the Hospital. And he's flying to Lukla tomorrow.

Vitaly Lazo:  And again, greetings from the Base Camp at 5300! Yesterday Anton and I came down from Camp 3, from the acclimatization rotation. We also met blue ice, and stones were flying — but everything is fine with us, and we even went skiing.

This downhill skiing was the most exciting in our output: fresh snow, good skiing. Tomorrow we are preparing to descend 1 km below, to rest in Pangboche.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Hello everyone!  Our team moved from Camp 1 (6100m) to Camp 2 (6400m). Everyone feels good. The camp is comfortable. Everest looms right over us. The weather is brilliant today. Tomorrow we will descend to the base camp. And one participant of our team goes through the program "Touching Everest". This is Elina Lazarevskaya.  Tomorrow she goes out with a sherpa and with extra oxygen to Camp 3 (7100 m), touches it and happily flies by helicopter to Kathmandu and home. And on May 2, the "Cats" team comes to us with a guide Artem Rostovtsev.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The Masala Team is already in the First Camp. At 6100. With heroic efforts, for 11 honest hours of work, we stumbled into a snow-covered camp. We experienced a lot of stress on the way. When such people climb vertical ropes.  It seems, they have never seen climbing equipment. It's funny when 10 Sherpas pull a woman along the wall on a rope. And she doesn't even help. Moreover, I am sure that in 30 days she will be standing at the summit with the flags of her beloved country and sponsors.  And our camp is great. Even at 6100 we have internet.

Hello everyone Massala Team!  The Internet has dropped. But we have a backup channel- pigeons. We write through space pigeons. Yesterday, Lyudmila Korobeshko's Makalu team came to our camp. We made everyone welcome and gave them the Bar for temporary use. There are 11 people in Makalu's Team! In jackets of colors Club 8000. Yellow-black-gray. They entered the camp with a flag, scaring the Yaks. We also visited the camp of the 8000 Club team going to Everest under the leadership of Vitya Volodin. Everyone is very active and positive.

Tomorrow our team goes to the first rotation. Camp 1 - 6100m and camp 2 - 6400m. Everyone is cheerful. Today, according to the plan, there is a lecture on oxygen and a gala dinner. We live like kings in the best camp! The food is varied. There was trout the day before yesterday. King prawns yesterday. It is impossible not to ascend. We have big tents, beds, a bar with a projector. And the best chef there can be.

On April 25, our team held ice classes. All participants showed good readiness.

Greetings from Everest, Alexander Abramov. Lena Abramova. Andrey Selivanov.