Providing expeditions
since 2005

The report of the guide Valery Myasoedov on the ascent to the Peak of Communism

"Greetings from the Base Camp in Moskvin's Glade, which is located in distant Tajikistan! We are already warm and safe, and on August 3 we stood at Summit of the Peak of Communism (7495 m) Ч the highest point of the Soviet Union! The ... read more

 "Greetings from the Base Camp in Moskvin's Glade, which is located in distant Tajikistan! We are already warm and safe, and on August 3 we stood at Summit of the Peak of Communism (7495 m) — the highest point of the Soviet Union!

The ascent was not easy: the Base Camp - Summit - Base Camp route takes 8-9 days, but successful acclimatization, competent planning, and most importantly, the weather factor were on our side. It was the right decision to unite with other groups on the day of the assault, snow this year is waist-deep almost all over the route, a small group cannot overcome such an obstacle.

19 people stormed out of Camp 4 under Dushanbe Peak at an altitude of 7000 m. Up to 7400 m we walked all together, and then our group, having passed the most difficult section first, reached the Crest and at 12.40 (local time) were the first to reach Summit!

The panorama from the Roof of the World, as the Pamirs are called, was amazing! Imagine, our 8000 Club flag didn't even need to be stretched, it was almost calm... This doesn't happen very often.

There was no limit to the delight and emotions of our Anastasia Panfilova!  She managed to make both peaks this season: the Peak of Korzhenevskaya and the Peak of Communism. The photos turned out great, for the first time I decided to number them so that our friends of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club could appreciate the beauty of each moment"

Guide Valery Myasoedov

 At the Peak of Communism on August 3

 

 

 Selfies on top

 

 

 The Passage of the Summit Ridge. Requires maximum concentration

 

 

 Descent from the Summit Ridge. The most dangerous place

 

 

 The beginning of the descent from the peak, 7495 m

 

 

 Exit to the Ridge, 7400 m

 

 

 Assault camp under the Peak of Dushanbe, 7000 m

 

 

 At the Base Camp, a few minutes after returning. Happy climbers

 

 

 Peak of Communism from the crest of Korzhenevskaya Peak

Summit! The 8000 Club group made a wonderful ascent on the peak of Evgenia Korzhenevskaya

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tajikistan: Greetings from Tajikistan! Sorry for the long forced silence, there was a problem with the Internet in a remote mountainous area on Moskvin's Glade. ... read more

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tajikistan:

Greetings from Tajikistan! Sorry for the long forced silence, there was a problem with the Internet in a remote mountainous area on Moskvin's Glade. It's time to call our group "In search of Wi-Fi". During this time, we completed the acclimatization program and on July 22 we climbed the Peak of Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m. Acclimatization went according to plan, the day of the assault was chosen correctly, almost the entire group successfully reached the top. Unfortunately, one participant felt unwell in the third camp at 6300 m and nobly refused the assault, saying that he would not prevent the main group from reaching the top. The first half of the day delighted us with fantastic landscapes at the Peak of Communism and the entire ridge route of Korzhenevskaya Peak. And in the afternoon, on the contrary, it was covered with clouds, which made it easier for us to descend. The team showed indomitable character and willpower. Together with six other climbers, we were practically the first commercial group of this season on the summit that day. Before us, only a team of guides and Aksai Travel porters came to the top. As communication improves, there will also be a video as a separate block. In the meantime, we are happy and enjoying our rest at the Base Camp.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 8000 Club group arrived in Tajikistan on the program of climbing the Summitss of Korzhenevskaya and Communism

Super-Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tajikistan: Greetings from Tajikistan! The first group in the history of the 8000 Club gathered in Dushanbe to pave the way to one of the most popular summits of the Soviet ... read more

Super-Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tajikistan:

Greetings from Tajikistan! The first group in the history of the 8000 Club gathered in Dushanbe to pave the way to one of the most popular summits of the Soviet Union, Korzhenevskaya Peak, 7105 m and Peak Communism, 7495 m, now called Ismoil Somoni Peak. The city greeted us with an unbearable heat of +39, even the Tehran heat seemed cooler. In this program, the helicopter drop-off to Moskvin's Glade, to the Base Camp for both Summits, occurs several times a season, with enviable irregularity.  Therefore, we can say that we were lucky, right now, at night, we are heading to the village of Jirgital, located 200 km from Dushanbe, and early in the morning we fly to the Base Camp.

A welcome dinner was held at the Iranian cuisine restaurant (again an association with Tehran!), next to the hotel. Delicious, satisfying and in huge quantities, we took the uneaten with us to lunch boxes, it will come in handy on the road! We also managed to congratulate our dear Olga, the manager of Aksai Travel, on her birthday. The next report, I hope, will be written already from the Base Camp on Moskvin's Glade, 4200 m.