Khan-Tengri 2023

In August 2023, a group of the 7 Summits Club, which called itself "Omatikayi", visited the Central Tien Shan with the aim of climbing the summit of Khan Tengri.  The team was led by our guides Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin.  On August 22, the group made an attempt to climb on the top of Khan Tengri. Due to the worsening weather (snowfall and strong wind), the only right decision was made to turn around and go down to the assault Camp -3. On August 23, there was a long and dangerous descent down through the so-called "bottleneck" to the southern side of the mountain range. The participants and guides were rewarded with beautiful views of Pobeda Peak and Khan Tengri.

The Omatikayi group made an attempt to climb to the top of Khan Tengri on August 22. As the weather worsened (snowfall and strong wind), the only right decision was made to turn around and go down to the assault Camp -3.

If we had stayed on the slopes for another couple of hours, we would have been hit by a squall wind that tore us off our feet. After the descent, the wind continued all night. Tents were torn. There was enlightenment in the morning, but the strong wind continued.

On August 23, there was a long and dangerous descent down through the so-called "bottleneck". The clouds did not allow us to see those terrible snow eaves that hung over us. A couple of hours and we exhaled, went down to a flat glacier. And then we walked 10 km along the glacier to the base camp on South. And there, finally, delicious food, a warm bed and a view of the beautiful Peak Pobeda (Victory)!!!

On August 24, departure to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek.

Guides: Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin.

News from Khan Tengri Peak (from August 15). "Greetings to all from the Khan-Tengri base camp from the Omatikayi group! We went down from the acclimatization rotation. We managed to climb up to the level of 6000 meters. Yesterday there was a strong wind on the descent. We felt like flying snakes on the fixed ropes, there was a feeling that the mountain wanted to throw us off its slopes. Today is our day of rest. The sun is shining again."

Guides: Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin.

News from Khan Tengri: Omatikayi Group sends greetings from Khan Base Camp! The sun is shining, the birds are singing, the streams are murmuring, apparently spring has come! Today we worked out the fixed ropes equipment for descent and ascent, learned what a carabine brake is on descent and slow gas on ascent. Everyone feels good. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will go to Camp-1 with an overnight stay. Wait for messages! Guides: Viktor Volodin, Nikita Slotin.

Greetings to all from the Northern Inylchek Base Camp from the team of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 CLUB!

"Yesterday we moved from Bishkek to Karkara. Our road ran along the Chui Valley past the beautiful Issyk-Kul Lake (translated as "hot lake"). Today, our team flew by helicopter to the Khan Tengri base camp. We settled into our comfortable camp, had lunch and dismantled the equipment. Today we are resting, and tomorrow, as an acclimatization, we plan to walk higher to the Camp 1. Congratulations to everyone on the International Mountaineering Day! Group guides: Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin".