Ama Dablam 2024

Ama Dablam. Yesterday I returned from the acclimatization rotation. I spent one night in C1 at 5800. In the morning, my Sherpa and I reached C2 at 6050 in two hours, there were almost no people on the ropes. The climb is not easy - many uncomfortable traverses and walls, and on the Yellow Tower we even had to sweat a little and hang.

By lunchtime we had already descended to the BC to rest. There was just a group of familiar guys led by Denis Aleksenko. In the evening, Katya and Masha joined us, who had climbed the summit of Ama Dablam in the morning at an incredibly fast pace. And a little later, Vika Bonya from the neighboring Nims camp came to dinner, bringing lard as a gift to Denis's group. You can tell right away - an experienced climber! In the mountains, lard is the most important and useful product. This morning, we saw off Denis's group to the assault. And a little later, the sisters flew to Kathmandu. Today is my day of rest. Tomorrow - the move to C1, the day after tomorrow - C3 and the assault at night.

Director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko from Nepal:

Ama Dablam Base Camp, 4600. Got here yesterday and immediately had several interesting meetings. I go into the mess hall, and there are our Borya Egorov and Alexey (Sivkov), who just came down from the summit of Ama Dablam, resting. They ran at a good pace from C2 to the summit and after lunch they went down to BC. And right there - the twins Katya and Masha - the heroines of the film about our expedition to K2. They ran in 2 days to Lobuche from Kathmandu and tomorrow they are running to the summit. "Speedy Squirrels" - what can you say.

My plan is to spend two nights at the BC and then an acclimatization hike to C1 at 5700. Borya and Alexey flew to Kathmandu early this morning.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Boris Egorov reports from Nepal:

And-and-and… there is the summit of Ama Dablam! We left the second camp 6000m at 11 pm, at 6 am we met the dawn at 6814m. The first rocky part was brisk, but the 500m of vertical firn was not easy. There is nowhere to rest there, you need to constantly move and try not to think about where we are and what we are doing, just moving up. But at the top, it is beautiful! Now a well-deserved rest. Today we still managed to lose two kilometers and go down to the base camp, where we were met by Lyuda (Korobeshko). After all, Nepal is a meeting place for our friends, ha-ha. Hello everyone!