Elbrus 2025

Alexander Abramov, leader of the "Super Dogs on Elbrus" expedition, reports from the Elbrus region:

 The Super Dogs project on Elbrus. SUMMIT!!! Today, October 18th, a historic event took place. Three Sherpa dogs, Mingma, Pemba, and Lhakpa, reached the summit of Elbrus, working as sled dogs. They pulled climbers Alexander Abramov, Viktor Simonov, and Ilya Gladkikh.

As a result, the team of three dogs and three climbers ascended from an altitude of 5,100 meters to the summit in 3.5 hours. It's interesting that these dogs pull sleds in winter, but they've never been to the mountains. So, Elbrus is their first summit as dogs. The weather was terrible. After the summit, we descended in a blizzard and 50 km/h winds.

The route was in rough firn conditions, with some ice in places. The dogs proved themselves heroes.

The 7 Summits Club President Alexander Abramov flew to Moscow for 24 hours. Our captain took part in the 7 Summits Club's 18th anniversary celebration and was back at the Elbrus Refuge this morning. The weather is excellent and sunny, but windy, and the slopes are icy. Temperatures at the summit are forecast to be -30 degrees Celsius with winds of 50 km/h. Tonight, the group will attempt to climb Elbrus on dogsleds.

Alexander Abramov, leader of the "Super Dogs on Elbrus" expedition, reports from the Elbrus region:

 Today, the 7 Summits Club Super Dogs team climbed to our Refuge ("National Park") on the slopes of Elbrus at an altitude of 3,800 meters. Everything was covered in snow. They were digging out the cabins. The dogs were the main attraction on the cable car.

We settled into the shelter. We were in the cabins, our Chukchi sled dogs were on the snow. Everyone was comfortable.

Today, we made a test hike with the dogs to Refuge 11. The dogs immediately started pulling up, just like they would in a sled on snow. The speed was actually twice as fast as without the dogs. They pulled even better on the snow than yesterday on the rocks at Cheget. And they're less distracted. So far, the experiment is going great.

Tomorrow we'll try to climb Pastukhov Rocks. The weather, frankly, is bad. A blizzard. But the dogs are used to it. In Chukotka, in winter, they pull sleds and sleep outside at -50 degrees. So, Elbrus is a real treat for them. It's like a resort. But they're not climbing alone...

Alexander Abramov, leader of the "Sherpa Dogs on Elbrus" expedition from the Elbrus region:

 Today, October 14th, we made our first acclimatization ascent with dogs to the slopes of Mount Cheget. The result exceeded all expectations. All four dogs moved briskly upwards and pulled reliably. The ascent speed doubled. We reached the Ai Café in an hour and a half. The dogs are all renowned. They've been on the North Pole, but this is their first time in the mountains. Well done!

Tomorrow we're climbing to the refuge at 3,800 meters. There, we'll acclimatize the dogs and the participants for three days. The dogs have protective goggles. They don't like them much, though, and try to rip them off. I hope they get used to them.

 And there's another problem: these are running sled dogs. They pull not only up but also down. And that's dangerous. So we're getting used to each other. And we're trying to agree that the dogs will walk down together and not drag each other down. We're filming a movie.

Alexander Abramov, Viktor and Makar Simonov, Ilya Gladkikh.

Alexander Abramov, leader of the "Sherpa Dogs on Elbrus" expedition from the Elbrus region:

 Today marks the beginning of a new and unusual expedition for the 7 Summits Club to Elbrus. We will be climbing with Sherpa sled dogs. The thing is, the Chukchi sled dogs have been given Sherpa names: Mingma, Pemba, Pasang, and Lakpa. Their owner, the renowned polar explorer Viktor Simonov, believes they are ready to climb Elbrus. We are once again breaking new ground in mountaineering. The hardest part today was checking the dogs in as luggage. It took all day. We rescheduled our tickets twice, thanks to Aeroflot for being so accommodating!

The expedition stayed at the Povorot Hotel and began preparing for the Elbrus climb. The hardest part so far has been figuring out how to train the dogs to wear glasses. They're still a novelty for them. The group is scheduled to summit Elbrus in a week.

Today marks the beginning of a new and unusual expedition to Elbrus by the 7 Summits Club. We'll be climbing with Sherpa sled dogs. The Chukchi sled dogs are named after the Sherpas: Mingma, Pemba, Pasang, and Lakpa. Their owner, the famous polar explorer Viktor Simonov, believes they're ready to climb Elbrus. We're exploring a new direction in mountaineering again. The hardest part today was checking the dogs in as luggage. It took all day. We rescheduled our tickets twice, thanks to Aeroflot for being so accommodating!

 It's now 9:40 PM. We'll arrive in Mineralnye Vody at 1:30 AM. So, I'll send photos of the dogs tomorrow. For now, just our exhausted faces.

We face a second problem: finding crampons for our dogs.

Alexander Abramov, leader of the "Sherpa Dogs on Elbrus" expedition.

 Mount Elbrus has always been a challenge — not only for physical strength, but also for willpower. In September, I decided to undertake an experiment: to climb both summits of Elbrus while completely fasting. Five days — only water, herbal tea, and a little honey.

The idea of a “hunger ascent” was not accidental. I wanted to test the possibilities of the human body, to better understand how the respiratory system works at high altitude, and finally to overcome my altitude sickness. In previous expeditions, I noticed that eating consumed too much of my body’s energy: digestion drained my strength, food pressed on my diaphragm, and breathing became harder. Without food, however, I felt the opposite — lightness, full and easy breathing, high oxygen saturation, and no headaches. This contrast became the key discovery of my experiment.

The idea was not reckless: Alexander Abramov, the founder of the 7 Summits Club, once carried out a similar experiment, reaching the 5,642-meter Western Summit, and his experience inspired me. Abramov supported my decision and gave me recommendations, while the leader of our expedition, Alexander Dorojukov, agreed to oversee my attempt.

Diary of the Hunger Ascent

Day 1.
A group of 20 participants gathers at a long table. Hot dishes, aromas, laughter. I sit with only a cup of tea and honey in my hands. Physically, there is little hunger, but the habit of “eating together” becomes the main temptation.

Day 2.
The body begins to adapt in the mountains. Breathing becomes easier, as if my lungs have expanded. Walking feels comfortable, energy is steady. Hunger only shows up when I look at others eating.

Day 3.
Oxygen saturation — 97. I feel clear-headed and energized. No signs of fatigue. The main struggle is mental: not with hunger, but with habit.

Day 4.
A rest day before the summit push. My mind is filled with thoughts of food. I dream of homemade dumplings. But my body feels strong, light, ready for the night climb.

Day 5. Summit Push.
Sleepless night.
03:00 a.m. The start is slow because of groups ahead of us. This works in my favor: my body warms up gradually. Later the pace increases, and I feel incredible lightness.
• Eastern Summit — 5,621 m. Oxygen saturation — 96, which is a personal record (normally at altitude my readings were only 85–90).
• Western Summit — 5,642 m. The traverse took 1.5 hours, including a break for rest and changing clothes.

Not a single sign of altitude sickness: no headache, no weakness. My lungs breathe freely, and I am full of energy.

Experiment Results
• Complete absence of altitude sickness.
• Clear breathing and ease of movement.
• High oxygen saturation (96) at the summit.
• No fatigue or muscle pain, even after the climb.
• Plenty of energy, mental clarity.
• The body coped without any medication, vitamins, or supplements.

Achievement

I became the the first American woman to complete a hunger ascent of Elbrus, reaching both summits in a single push.

The greatest result for me: I finally overcame my “altitude sickness.” For many times it had ruined my expeditions, lowering my oxygen saturation and forcing me to retreat. Several pulmonary edemas, reanimation. But here, on Hunger Elbrus, I proved to myself that I could go farther and higher.

Conclusion

This hungry experiment was not just a sports record, but a way to unlock new possibilities of the human body. Elbrus showed me: strength does not always come from feeding the body — sometimes it comes from freeing it instead, and trusting its hidden reserves.

Facts About the Ascent
• Mountain: Elbrus (Caucasus, Russia)
• Summit altitudes:
• Eastern Summit — 5,621 m
• Western Summit — 5,642 m
• Summit push start: 03:00 a.m.
• Traverse time between summits: 1.5 hours (including rest and clothing change)
• Oxygen saturation at summit: 96
• Nutrition: water, herbal tea, honey
• Additional: no medication, vitamins, or supplements
• Unique feature: first female hungry ascent of both Elbrus summit.

The 7 Summits Club guide Alexander Dorojukov sends from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region to the "Boldly with Mel" group! On September 12, our group climbed the Western summit of Elbrus (5642 m) as a whole team. And then the participants Yulia and Andrey, together with the guide, also climbed to the Eastern summit (5621 m). The weather was great, thank heavens! The group members prepared very seriously for the ascent and everything worked out for them. Congratulations! In the evening at the hotel, all the participants received commemorative medals and diplomas. And we discussed further plans.

The 7 Summits Club Guide Sergey Onufrienko reports from the Elbrus region:

Everything is calm on Elbrus! Good day to all! Our last VIP group "Vysotniki" reached the summit of Elbrus in full force at 8:30 am. The weather was a windless sunny day. Thanks to everyone who contributed to our achievement!

The 7 Summits Club Guide Alexander Dorojukov sends from Elbrus:

Greetings from Elbrus! The "Boldly with chalk" group has completed its acclimatization program. Yesterday we walked to Pastukhov Rocks, we were very lucky with the weather. Today we held training in self-arrest on the slope, which we couldn't do the day before yesterday due to bad weather. Tomorrow night we start on the mountain. Good luck to us!

The 7 Summits Club guide Sergey Onufrienko reports from Elbrus:

 Good day to all! Everything is calm on Elbrus. The 7 Summits Club group "Vysotniki" moved in a Ural Truck (the cable cars are not working) to the refuge. Then we went on the final acclimatization ascent and reached the top of Pastukhov Rocks in 3:50. We returned to the area of the Refuge of Eleven and conducted training snow and ice exercises. We worked with an ice axe, there is a lot of fresh wet snow, you can't get going on your butt. So we didn't manage to work everything out. But the group is strong, no problem. At 18:30 we returned to the hotel. All the participants are cheerful and happy. We are resting before storming the summit. Guide “Hedgehog”.

The 7 Summits Club Guide Sergey Onufrienko reports from Elbrus:

 Good day to all! Our last VIPs of the Elbrus program, called "high-altitude climbers", rushed to the "Ai" cafe in 1:30. We got wet in the rain, drank tea, and ran down. After lunch, we got dressed at the rental, and at the hotel we had classes on adjusting crampons and systems. And we also found time to walk between the pines, practice fixed ropes climbing. Everyone is cheerful and happy!

The 7 Summits Club Guide Alexander Dorojukov reports from Elbrus:

Greetings from Elbrus! The "Smelo s melom" group has begun its program of climbing Elbrus. This is our final group of the season. Today we walked along the slopes of Mount Cheget. We climbed up to the cafe "Ai". The weather is already cold, autumn is felt. According to the forecast, precipitation is promised every day. But it is what it is. Our task is to get up and down.

Tatyana Posokhin, representative of the 7 Summits Club in the USA:

Hello everyone! Day 5 of my Hungry Elbrus. The day of the ascent. The night was sleepless. The start was at 3 am. I feel great, cheerful, in anticipation!

The start of the route was a bit drawn out, we walked slowly because of the previous teams ahead, which basically gave the body time to warm up, so that it could run up later!

 The result of the hungry experiment:

You also need to take into account that I had not trained for a whole month due to illness (and I arrived on the expedition not having fully recovered yet):

- I quickly recovered from the illness: the cough and nasal congestion went away;

- the ascent itself was very easy for me;

- breathed deeply the whole way;

no altitude sickness or its symptoms;

- no headache;

- no fatigue;

- lots of energy and strength;

- no hunger;

- saturation at the very top 96;

- no clouding of consciousness either;

- climbed two peaks at once (if there had been a third peak, I would have run to it too), the journey from the East to the West took 1.5 hours, taking into account a stop for rest and changing;

- even without taking any medications or supplements, dietary supplements, vitamins, my body feels better than ever and there is no muscle pain after the climb.

It turns out that I became the first Russian and the first American woman to climb Elbrus on two peaks at once without food.

 And my main result: I overcame my altitude sickness. Those who know me, I have had enough defeats, both because of my lungs and failed ascents precisely because of altitude sickness. I have never had saturation above 86-90 at altitudes under the best of circumstances. I have done a colossal amount of work on myself, on my willpower, on all the difficulties.

But the result amazed me and brought me to new heights!

The 7 Summits Club guide Alexander Dorojukov sends from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region! The 7 Summits Club group "Ne Gipsony" finished their program with a successful 100% ascent to the top of Elbrus. The weather was gorgeous, sun and calm all day. Although the nights are already cold. I would also like to congratulate our Tatyana, she went on the "hungry ascent" program and climbed two peaks. At the gala evening, all the climbers were awarded orders and diplomas. Until next time in the mountains!

Greetings from Elbrus! The 7 Summits Club guide Georgy Bushuev is on the line. It looks like an ideal end to the season. 09/05/25 went with the "Very organized group" to the Western summit of Elbrus with 9 out of 10 guests. Light frost at night, clear horizon and complete calm on the descent. Thank you all! See you in the mountains!

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorozhukov sends from Elbrus:

 Greetings from Elbrus! The 7 Summits Club group "Ne Gipsony" continues its acclimatization. Today we went to Pastukhov Rocks. It got very cold. The weather was borderline, but before the precipitation we managed to go down to the refuge for lunch. Tomorrow is a day of rest and then - into battle. Although the forecast promises good weather on the day of the ascent.

Hi! Today with the "Very organized group" we went on the final acclimatization climb in the direction of Pastukhov Rocks. We reached about 4630m, 50 meters from the final point we decided to turn around due to the weather. Taking advantage of the opportunity, we worked on our skills of moving in a thunderstorm and high-speed descents in crampons. Without excesses, but there were enough impressions for everyone.

Now we are in the rest phase and preparing for the assault on Elbrus.

Group guide: Georgy Bushuev.

The 7 Summits Club Guide Alexander Dorojukov reports from the Elbrus region:

 Greetings from the Elbrus region! The 7 Summits Club group "Ne Gipsony" continued their acclimatization on the slopes of Mount Elbrus. In the morning we were dropped on the refuge and settled into comfortable trailers. Then we started to trample the ice, since there was no snow to be found in the area. We walked around on crampons for confidence. We clicked not only our faces, but also the carabiners on the rope. We returned to the refuge and had a tasty meal. Tomorrow is a new day, new challenges.

09/02/25 - Good evening! Today, with the "Very organized group", we went to the National Park refuge, using cargo equipment (the cable car stopped for maintenance). We brought up the equipment and went to Refuge of 11, where we conducted snow and ice training in a very organized manner. We are resting. Group guide: Georgy Bushuev.