Everest 2010

Namaste and warm greetings from Nepal

The 2010 Spring Mountaineering season from Nepal side has been very successful. My son, Dawa Steven Sherpa, Leader of Eco Everest Expedition 2010 and his team members returned to Kathmandu at the end of May safely and in good health.

Total Number of Climbers on Mt. Everest

This Spring 2010 season we saw a slightly lower number of expeditions attempting Mt. Everest. On the Nepal side 157 foreign climbers and 190 High Altitude Sherpa climbed Mt. Everest. Though CTMA has not been able to provide us exact numbers, during this same season I predict the total number of climbers on the Tibet side to be around 165.

The latest information from the office of Ms. Elizabeth Hawley, chronicler of all Expeditions in Nepal, gives some very interesting facts. Between 1953 and 2009, the total number of ascents was 4557 by 3163 individuals (some having summited more than once).

Adding this year’s spring total of 513 ascents, of which 268 are new summiteers and the rest are repeat summiteers. In summary, the total number of ascent until today is 5070. Whereas, the actual number of persons having summited Mt. Everest is 3431 till date.

Eco Everest Expedition 2010

In 2008, Eco Everest Expedition team brought down 965 kilos of garbage, including 75 kilos of human waste from above base camp. Similarly in 2009 Eco Everest Expedition brought down 6000 kilos of garbage under the “Cash for Trash” program which excluded 115 kilos of human waste produced during the expedition. The same year wreckage of an Italian Army helicopter was also recovered from the edge of the Khumbu Icefall (5486m). The helicopter had crashed between Camp I and Camp II (approx. 6200m) on Mt. Everest during the Italian Everest Expedition in 1973. The Eco Everest Expedition team brought down 700 kilos of wreckage of the helicopter. Since 2008 until today Eco Everest Expedition brought down more than 12,000 kilos of old garbage and more than 300 kilos of human waste produced by Eco Everest Expedition from Mt. Everest for proper disposal. The main sponsor of the garbage collection for 2008 and 2009 was Asian Trekking and for 2010 were Asian Trekking, Reinhold Messner, The North Face and The Alpine Convention.

At the same function Honorable Minister for Tourism and Civil Aviation Mr. Sarat Singh Bhandari presented the Tenzing-Hillary Award to Ms. Junko Tabei (the first woman to summit Mt. Everest) for her support in developing mountain tourism. Similarly the national and international summiteers of Mt. Everest in 2010 were honored with medals regarding them as Goodwill Ambassador for Nepal Tourism Year 2011.

The 16th SAARC summit recently held in Thimpu, Bhutan has endorsed Nepals’ proposal to appoint Apa Sherpa as SAARC Goodwill Ambassador for Climate Change for two consecutive years. On a program organized on 31st May 2010 he was handed over the certificate of SAARC Goodwill Ambassador by the Deputy Prime Minister of Nepal, Sujata Koirala.

Free Entry Visa for Nepal to Mt. Everest Summiteers:

On the eventful day of Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest), Minister of Tourism and Civil Aviation Mr. Sarat Singh Bhandari declared to provide free visas for Nepal to Mt. Everest Summiteers. He also said that the Mt. Everest Day will be celebrated in all of the Nepalese Embassies abroad from 2011.

The event was organized by Government of Nepal, Nepal Mountain Association (NMA), Nepal Toursm Board, Civic Society of Kaski , Myagdi,Baglung and Parbat District. The Honorable Minister for Tourism and Civil Aviation, Mr. Sarat Singh Bhandari was Chief Guest. The Guest of Honour was the renowned Austrian mountaineer Kurt Diemberger, the first summiteer of Mt. Dhaulagiri and the only remaining person alive to make first ascents on two 8,000 meter peaks.

Also present at the event were representatives from various organizations and many veteran mountaineers like renowned Climber Ang Rita Sherpa, Serap Jangbu Sherpa, Kuniko Yagihara- climbing leader of two successful Dhaulagiri Expedition on 1978 and 1982, and leader of Yeti Research Expedition around Dhaulagiri.

Groups and individuals from Pokhara as well as from outside Pokhara performed presented cultural performances. During the programme, the Government of Nepal and the Civic Society felicitated Kurt Diemberger and other mountaineers who were present. At the function, Kurt Diemberger shared his climbing experiences and his visits to Nepal.

Similarly, Golden Jubilee of the first ascent of Mt. Dhaulagiri was celebrated with much enthusiasm at Beni (Myagdi District), Baglung (Baglung District), and Kushma (Parbat District) on the 14th of May 2010. The events at Pokhara, Beni, Baglung, Kushma were a tremendous success in showing the concern towards the mountains and promotion of mountain tourism in Nepal.

50% Reduction on Mt. Dhaulagiri Royalty Fee:

On the occasion of Mt. Dhaulagiri Golden Jubilee, the Government of Nepal has decided to reduce the royalty of Mt. Dhaulagiri by 50% as well as to provide free entry visa to Nepal for Mt. Everest and Mt. Dhaulagiri summiteers for 2010 and 2011.

Beat the GLOF Action Run and Save the Khumbu Festival 2010:

On 4 June 2010, Beat the GLOF Action Run and Save the Himalayas-Khumbu Festival was organized for the second consecutive year in Khumjung Village in the Khumbu region. The one day event started off at 7 am with Beat the GLOF Action Run.

112 runners, out of which 79 were males and 33 were females, participated in the Action Run. The run route started from Khumjung (3790m) and passed through Kyangjuma (3550) –Namche (3440m)-Phurte (3390m) -Thamo (3842m) - back to Phurte (3820m) – Syangboche (3720m) – Khunde (3840m) and ended back in Khumjung (3790).

The first male runner Karma Sarki Sherpa completed the run route (16 kilometers) in 1 hr 59 minutes and 10 seconds whereas the first female runner Ang Phuti Sherpa completed this distance in 2 hrs 34 minutes and 45 seconds. Ten first male and female runners were awarded cash prizes at the Khumbu Festival.

Locals from Khumjung, Khunde, Phortse, Pangboche, Thame and Namche had participated in the festival which showcased traditional Sherpa culture. The various villages partook in the Sherpa dance exhibition. Students from Khumjung School presented a Drama highlighting the issues of climate change. The drama was titled “Message from the Doctor.” Youth groups performed songs and dances and entertained the audience. National and international dignitaries, media and press trekked up to participate and cover the event.

The event was organized by iDEAS in collaboration with Sherwi Yondhen Tshokpa (Sherpa Students Network). The event was sponsored by The North Face, Asian Trekking and Nepal Mountaineering Association. Agni Air and Tara Air provided complimentary air tickets to the participants and media personnel flying from Kathmandu. Himalayan Eco Resorts, Paradise Lodge and Hotel Camp de base provided complimentary lodging and meals to the dignitaries and members of the media and press. The event was supported by Sagarmatha National Park Buffer Zone Management Committee, Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation, Nepal Tourism Board, Nepal Tourism Year 2011, WWF Nepal and Khunde Hospital.

This Event which will take place annually in the month of June aims to draw the attention towards the risks of potential GLOFs in the area. I welcome all our friends to come and support us by participating in this event.

Tibet Expedition Spring 2010 Summary:

The 2010 Spring Mountaineering season has been very eventful as well as filled with tragedy and sorrow.

I am saddened to report that there were four fatalities [3 who were on 'expeditions'] on North side of Mt. Everest this season. Among them was our Hungarian friend Laszlo Varkony climbing with Hungarian Everest Expedition 2010.

Please join me in praying for eternal peace for the departed and for strength to the bereaved families.

New Regulation on Tibet Expedition from Autumn 2010:

“In order to promote the organization of expedition, improve team quality and avoid waster of resources, China Tibet Mountaineering Association has implemented some additional provisions for future permit applications, size and reception.

Now the expedition must apply the climbing permits in one month before. If the climbers required applying visas in their own country, they must mention in one month before. As per this new regulation the size of the team for three major peaks (Mt. Qomolangma, Cho-oyu and Shishapangma) must be above 5 pax (can contain Nepalese staff) and the ratio for clients with Nepalese staff should be 6:4. The age bar for the climbers has been limited between 18 – 60 years and if the climbers’ age is not within this provision, must provide proof of special health-related applications.”

Lastly, it is my pleasure to keep you all up to date as to our activities here in the Himalaya. If you have any questions please let me know. I thank you for your support in the past and look forward to our cooperation in the future.

Best Wishes,

Ang Tshering Sherpa

Chairman

Asian Trekking

Today, all our members and guides descended to the base camp. The expedition ends. Several people have already left for Kathmandu. The final result: 8 members, 2 guides and 10 Sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest. Thanks to the good work of Dr. Igor Pokhvalin, nobody was seriously ill. Thanks to all the guides, thanks to our Sherpa ! They have still a serious work on preservation of our equipment, tents and so on. Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny will lead this work. Others are already on vacation.

Dr. Igor Pokhvalin from Crimea - Everest Summiter, the first Ukrainien on the Seven Summits

The most stressful day of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition is coming to an end. All members, guides and Sherpas have found their place in the camps and rest. The first group completed went down to the base camp at 5200 meters. All are feeling well, vision problems, which are often at high altitude, as usual, during a descent were held without a trace. Most of the second group came down to a comfortable camp ABC. Only our women Malgorzata and Elena should spent night above, at 7700 m. With them stay our guides and Sherpas. Oxygen, drinking, drugs - all in abundance, until the morning all should recover and continue their journey. Now it will a way home. Let greetings for tomorrow. By the way, snow in the evening almost ended and in the morning it may be good weather.

At 9:30 a.m. local time, our second group reached the highest peaks of planet, through heavy snow and wind. Now they began to descend, everything is OK. In the area of North Col fell about 30 cm of snow. Perhaps the weather on Everest finally broke down and it was the last chance.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

At 7 a.m. local time, the second group  is in the "snowy triangle", an hour from the summit. Snow is strong, there is no wind at all. It seems that this is the first day of the monsoon. Alex Abramov.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

First climber of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the top of Everest at about 6:00 a.m.. As a result, today following climbers were on the summit: Noel Hanna (guide, Ireland), Steve Berry (UK), James Wilde (USA), Mikhail Turovsky (Russia, Pyatigorsk), Andrey Filkov (Russia, Moscow), Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and four other Sherpas. Total - 10 people! Unfortunately, Vadim Nadvodnyuk was forced to turn before reaching the summit because of problems with eyes. Currently, he and all the summiters have descended, they are in safe places. Some reached the camp ABC, some stay at the North Col. Our second group climbed the camp 8300 and is preparing now for a summit bid. Unfortunately, the weather is a little deteriorated, but there are chances of clearing in the night.

In the camp 3 at the altitude of 8300 meters there are about 100 climbers. In such situation, a turn on fix ropes could be a major obstacle for success. Therefore, our first group decided to go to climb before everyone else - in 9:30 p.m., before getting dark. It looks as a new word in tactics of Everest climb. According to our calculations, our group should reach the top of Everest in the 4-30 - 5-00 a.m. local time. The second group came to the camp 7700 meters, everything is OK.

First group: guide Noel Hanna (Ireland), Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky (all – Russia), Steve Berry (UK) , James Wilde (USA).

The weather is excellent! In the morning the "Group One" came to camp 3, at the altitude of 8300 meters. All members are committed to tomorrow's summit attempt. Group Two climb up from the North Col (7000 m.) to camp 2 (7700 m), Unfortunately, there is first loss. For reasons of health, Pole Krzysztof Ginalsky went down, he has very bad cough. This morning 13 - year-old Jordan Romero reached the summit. We are in anxiety about our American friends and are waiting for them on their way down.

Today, 21 May, as previously predicted, wind was decreased. It allowed the first group to climb to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters (camp 2). The second group climbed up to North Col (7000 m). Sherpas continued carry goods to upper camps. So, the expedition is going up with a lag of one day. And now dates of summit assault are defined, respectively, for 23 and 24 May.

Most of expeditions from the north and south moved to high-altitude camps. The summit wave on the south will be 22 May. On the north most of climbers are behind for about a day.

The first group of expedition 7 Summits Club is blocked at the North Col (7000 m) by strong winds. For the second day, no one could go up. Sherpas, who were unable to carry loads to the upper camps, are also sitting in the tents. The second group remains in the camp ABC. Waiting on Everest, tedious, anxious - it is a heavy need. The main thing is not to get sick, save a form. Wind is expected to become moderate already the next night. However, in the coming days are expected with snowfalls. Would it be a good window for climb ?

On the eve Sherpas and Tibetan climbers from a Chinese expedition completed the processing route of ascent of Everest from the north. As primary information, six people reached the summit. The expedition 7 Summits Club, analyzing weather and other factors, on general meeting, adopted a plan for decisive operations. The team was divided into two groups.

Each of them will be accompany by Sherpas climbers.

First group: guide Noel Hanna, Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky, Steve Berry, James Wilde. Exit at the North Col - 19 May. 20.05 - camp 7700 m, 21.05 - camp 8300 m, 22.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Second group. Guide Sergey Larin, three Poles (Krzysztof Ginalski, Malgorzata Piezh-Penkala, Daniel Mizera), Elena Gorelik, Zdravko Dejanovic.

Exit at the North Col - May 20. 21.05 - camp 7700 m, 22.05 - camp 8300 m, 23.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny on the situation will be in camps 7700 or 8300, run by the ascent and descent. We get confused weather forecasts from different operators. But for all the senses, the monsoon will come soon.

Today, May, 16 in the morning, leader of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition Alexander Abramov, Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and two mountain porters Nima Wangdi and Pemba Nurbah climbed Northern summit of Everest (Changtse, 7550 m) along the Southern Ridge. The climb took 6 hours, the route was quite difficult, according to our classification 4B - 5A category of difficulty. Alexander Abramov has compared it with classic route on Khan-Tengri from the Saddle . A lot of mixed climbing using ice tools, ice screws. "Difficult climb, we are tired. But I'm happy. I admired this summit since 2000. In 10 years no one climbed it. But it is also Everest, although Northern ! "

The group descended on the North Col (7000 m.), the expedition continues.

Today the whole team, led by Nicholas Cherny, went into the Tillman’s Glade for additional acclimatization. I and Mingma tomorrow go to the Middle Camp and the day after to the ABC. 16 – 17 of May a weather "window" is expected and our Sherpas plan to finish supply of goods and equipment to the camp at 8300m. And we (Alex and Mingma) probably go up to the Changtse in this brief moment of calm. Weather forecast promised after 22 May good conditions and we plan to climb the main Peak on these days ...

Alex Abramov

Thanks to Alex there was a meeting of generations: 13-year-old Jordan and Nicholay (a legend of Mount Everest, aa  www.jordanromero.com)

Changtse, South Ridge

We rested three days in Xegar and Tashidzong, where we fished for trout in mountain river, and from where we brought a fresh lamb. Then the whole team gathered on May 9 at the Base Camp. And the holiday began.

We invited all expeditions, which were in BC (15 expeditions) and staged a party in honor of the Victory Day. This is the traditional celebration here. Almost everyone came, because now in the camp has nothing to do, there is too strong wind above ABC camp. Guests were interesting to look at the camp of "7 Summits Club", especially at a big new tent, named a space station. Inside that big tent more than fifty people sat around the table.

The party was fantastic. People eagerly communicated with each other, drinking beer and other beverages. Climbers from different expeditions tried to know each other better. In the focus, of course, were women, only seven for hundreds of men.

Everything was going so well that the official part was not required. But one time Alex Abramov told about the Victory Day. The people happily agreed, that is all, and they continued their conversation.

Soviet and German military marches sounded, someone even danced. In the next tent somebody was singing with a guitar. The guests were reluctant to finish, joy and communication. The party lasted from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. .

People sometimes have to relax. Such an unusual event memorable!

About plans of our team: for May, 15 forecasts promise a small window for 1-2 days.

But we are a big and serious expedition. We want to wait for a good stable weather for climbing. We hope the good weather will come after the 23rd May.

Best regards,

Alex Abramov

President of "7 Summits Club"

In 2008, the year of the Olympics in Beijing, the Chinese announced that they provided cell phones to camp ABC (6500m). This was called "China Mobile". So it was - they put on from BC to ABC 4-5 powerful repeaters. All repeaters except one, are on the slopes of the mountains surrounding the valley and it is hard to pin down. Therefore, up to the Middle Camp there is a very good mobile connection.

But above the Middle Camp, we found on the trail broken by someone, probably by Tibetan yaksmen, amplifying station (repeater). Solar pelted with stones, antenna and cables were plucked out of touch. Who do it ? Now there is no mobile in the ABC camp, because the signal is fed from the amplifier to an amplifier, and now the chain is broken.

Training in the area of the camp ABC.

During the acclimatization ascent, we surveyed the route of ascent on the southern ridge of the North summit of Everest (Changtsze).

Yesterday all members of 7 Summits-Club Everest expedition depart to Xegar on 4200 m for rest. Jeeps come only at 7 p.m., so we had time to put our new eightmeters-tent. The task was not simple, but interesting. Nicholay Cherny acted as foreman and as topman. Then the rest teammates enthusiastically joined in the work, including Sherpas. When it came time to raise the curtain, it was 15 people working together. ...

This is a real super-construction. Outside you can not understand the scope, but it towers high over our giant yellow tent. Inside the tent - everything looks like a cinema hall and recreation room for 20-25 people.

Today a team of our four guides and doctor Igor Pokhvalin, with a sense of accomplishment, go to Tashidzong at 4000 m, to rest for 2 nights. On May 9, we plan to return to the base camp and invite guests for celebration on the Victory Day in the new tent. .

Best regards !

Alex Abramov

In recent days, there was a peak of bad weather. In the morning, on May 5, as was predicted by forecast, there was heavy snowfall. We, four guides, Alexander Abramov, Nikolay Cherny, Sergey Larin, Noel Hanna, after consultation, decided to turn the whole team down from ABC to the Base Camp. Moreover, the forecast for today and tomorrow promises to bad weather and the forecast is justified.

Snow falls in the base camp too. We must wait till end of this attack of monsoon. Thus, the process of acclimatization is complete. We decided to organize rest for the team until May 9 holiday, and then plan the assault on Mount Everest.

Climb North summit, we also plan to climb after May 9. We are now 16 climbers and 12 Sherpas. Everybody felt fine.

Alex Abramov

May, 9  Russia celebrates The Victory Day, the  most significant holiday for our country. Nickolay Cherny, who last year turned 71 years old, is currently in camp ABC at 6500. He work as a guide of the  7 Summits Club Everest  International Expedition under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. Whole team of climbers is preparing for the second acclimatization climb to the altitude of 7700 meters. At that time, Alexander Abramov and Nickolay Cherny are going to take a new route to the North Peak  of Mount Everest, named also Changtsze,  7550 meters, via the Southern Ridge from the North Col.

Direct view on the ridge

Profile - right ridge

Nickolay Cherny

Alex Abramov

Alexander Abramov reports from the camp ABC. Our Everest expedition went to the ABC camp. Climbers successfully carried out an acclimatization ascent to the North Col. Guide Sergey Larin with three members Sergei Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov and Andrei Perepelkin stayed on an additional night at the North Col. After three nights of rest, we'll go for a second acclimatization ascent, this time to the height of 7700 m. All goes as planned, the weather is normal: with snow almost every day after lunch. And now it's snowing, in spite of the forecast.

ABC: when it is a good weather

The search for Laszlo Varkonyi has ended. Today morning according to the informations of the Hungarian embassy in Beijing, the Ministry for foreign affairs informed us, that by the report of the Chinese contact officer they finished searching for Laszlo Varkonyi. The local authorities will fill out a document on the lethal accident. The decision was made because after searching for two and a half they presumed that they won't find him dead or alive. In the area of the searching the ice is not stable and the weather was adverse.

David Klein told by phone that he would rather talk about his from Kathmandu. Now he only said: 'There was an avalanche accident, an icefall. My friend Laszlo Varkonyi has died, I was lucky, the safety rope held me.' David will start off to Kathmandu today afternoon or tomorrow morning and hopes to reach it tomorrow evening.

Statement of David Klein, April 27, 2010

Yesterday around noon we were on our way down from the North Col (7000 m) to the Advanced Base Camp (6400 m), when at half way, at a relatively easy area the ice started to fall, which means that the ice-wall above us fell down. The ice took Konyi and me off our legs. The ice threw me onto an ice-wall, cross an edge, and I stopped hanging at the vertical wall, on the fixed rope. I didn't know what happened to Konyi, he was behind me. I hoped that the avalanche missed him.

Later I was rescued from above, with the help of a rope, and I learnt that Konyi was missing. They searched for him yesterday and today with big teams, but they didn't find him. According to the eyewitnesses, while I was carried away by the avalanche, Konyi was caught by it 15-20 meters behind me, and the ice fell on him directly.

I have few bruises on my right arm, it was already reinstated by a Mexican doctor here on the mountain.

I will go down from the mountain the day after tomorrow.

I would like to emphasize that these are only the first impressions! I will give a more accurate description of what happened later.

Last photo from Everest