Khan-Tengri. We have come back. Impressions and memories.

We have just come back from Tian Shan. The trip has excited us and provoked strong feelings which are not easy to be described. Can you imagine the brightness of the greenery near Carcara river, the cold slopes of Khan-Tengri, walking ... read more

We have just come back from Tian Shan. The trip has excited us and provoked strong feelings which are not easy to be described. Can you imagine the brightness of the greenery near Carcara river, the cold slopes of Khan-Tengri, walking up to the Camp 2 on rimed fixed ropes, dodging from stones while rising to the Camp 3, 4-days exhausting waiting for good weather in the assault camp, the day of the ascent, descending to the South where the views were wonderful, the South Inilchek with its unique atmosphere, relax near the Issyk Kul lake…? During the way we have met the legends of alpinism like Kazbeck Hamitsaev, Nikolay Gilin, Aleksandr Koloskov, Dmitrij Grekov, Dmitrij Pavlienko, and we have also met our old friends and some new interesting people.

Two participants of our expedition, Sergej Shekoldin and Andrej Ulin, deserve to be respected especially. They have reached the summit in spite of big difficulties like bad weather conditions and loss of experience.

I’d like also to thank our guides, Ura Lyabin and Dima Ermakov.

In the middle of expedition we were left by Sasha Victorov. He had decided that he didn’t have enough experience for such difficult ascent. In my opinion, his decision was reasonable. However, he managed to reach the Camp 2, and anyway that's something.

As for me, I haven’t reached the summit this time. When we left the assault camp at 4 o’clock in the morning after long waiting, I understood that I really felt terrible and couldn’t walk fast enough. That was the mountain sickness probably. It was pity and difficult to walk down. I felt disappointment… I hope I’ll have another chance to climb this mountain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The whole group has safely climbed down Khan-Tengri

Long-expected news from Ludmila Korobeshko! All participants of the expedition have safely walked down to the side of South Inilchek. Yesterday they stayed in the base camp, and today they are going to fly away by helicopter. Then they will ... read more

Long-expected news from Ludmila Korobeshko! All participants of the expedition have safely walked down to the side of South Inilchek.

Yesterday they stayed in the base camp, and today they are going to fly away by helicopter. Then they will rest near Issyk Kul Lake for a few days.

Congratulations to all participants of the expedition! Their ascent has been successful.

Khan-Tengri Ц our adventurers are on the summit now!

We have just got a message from Ludmila Korobeshko who is on Khan-Tengri at the moment. Her group had been waiting in the assault camp since August, 6th at a height of 5800 meters. They had been waiting for good weather for 3 nights. The ... read more

We have just got a message from Ludmila Korobeshko who is on Khan-Tengri at the moment.

Her group had been waiting in the assault camp since August, 6th at a height of 5800 meters. They had been waiting for good weather for 3 nights. The weather improved at last and they started the ascent at 3 o’clock. Ludmila stayed in the camp, but she had communication with the group.

At 3 o’clock p.m. the group of 7 Summits Club reached the summit of Khan-Tengri. Four people took part in that ascent: Andrej Ulin, Sergej Shekoldin and guides Ura Liabin and Dmitrij Ermakov.

At the moment they are walking down to the camp. They are going to rest a little and then to continue descending to the side of South Inilchek.

We wish them safe descend!

Khan-Tengri: Acclimatization in the bad weather

July, 30th the group of the 7 Summits Club led by Ludmila Korobeshko went up to Camp 1 on the slopes of Khan-Tengri. The next day, we went to camp 2 (5600m). It was hard work: a real ice-wall, plus bad weather. Fixed ropes are iced ... read more

July, 30th the group of the 7 Summits Club led by Ludmila Korobeshko went up to Camp 1 on the slopes of Khan-Tengri. The next day, we went to camp 2 (5600m). It was hard work: a real ice-wall, plus bad weather. Fixed ropes are iced over, jumars not holding. The marsh took 8 hours. That night it was heavy wet snow. Everything was wet. The weather is not conducive to climbers on Khan Tengri. Only one group climbed from the north. We met our friends from Ecuador Edgar and Katie. They spent four days in the assault camp at an altitude of 6000 meters, but could not get through to the top. Generally, we meet a lot of friends: Kofanov Sergei, Vladimir Lavrinenko Nikolai Zhilin, Eugene Winogradsky. Now we are resting in the base camp. Unfortunately, our team fell by one participant: Alexander Viktorov decided to go back home.

Ludmila Korobeshko - guide of the group.

 

 

Khan-Tengri Expedition is in the base camp on the North Inylchek Glacier

Group of climbers from the 7 Summits Club, arrived by helicopter to the base camp on the Glacier North Inylchek. Ludmila Korobeshko is a head and guide of expedition, that includes three participants – Alexander, Viktorov Sergey ... read more

Group of climbers from the 7 Summits Club, arrived by helicopter to the base camp on the Glacier North Inylchek. Ludmila Korobeshko is a head and guide of expedition, that includes three participants – Alexander, Viktorov Sergey Schekoldin, Andree Julin. First, they must draw up a timetable of acclimatization climbs. And for this you need to know the weather forecast. An English source of information about weather in the mountains www.mountain-forecast.com argues that our climbers in the next three days to go through heavy rain, and on Friday - is also quite heavy snow. Most likely, the first days of acclimatization will be held in tents with no exits in the alpine zone.