Aconcagua 2011

During 2010/11 season six climbers were killed in the "Roof of America." Along with the2008/09, both hit a record of fatalities. So far were about 6,500 climbers who visited the Aconcagua Park from November 15, 2011, 300 people more than when last season ended.

According to estimates, 3,500 were those who paid for climb and almost 3 000 opted for the short and long trekking. Number of resque evacuations reached 195, of which 170 were routine, 25 with some difficulty and 5 with an imminent threat.

The only case that could break the zero is the Spanish climber David Markaida Mendibe (42), who attempted to summit alone despite his expedition had 4 other athletes. Since the rescue team said their last sighting was 24 days ago and found no traces of him.

February 22 a group of guys from the 7 Summits Club were at the top of Mount Aconcagua . Here are the names of climbers: Alexander Kolomiets, Vitaly Kolomiets, Nicholas Ostapov, Andrey Ternavsky, 7 Summits Club Guide - Dmitry Yermakov. One member Maxim has not reached the top quite a bit. The ascent was not easy. Climbers, after reviewing the weather forecast, they decided to go a day earlier than was planned. And to start from the camp Nido de Condores (5500 meters). That is, they had to overcome the drop in the 1,400 meters, and in the distance is about 7-8 miles. Judging by the happy faces, all efforts were not wasted ..

Dmitry Yermakov rang almost from the summit of Aconcagua. One hour before, his team started to descent from the summit. His clients asked to name their as heroes of Ukraine. That's right, today was a very hard day. According to the plan they will climb tomorrow, but the forecast was good only for today. So they decided to start from 5500 meters, from the camp Nido de Condores. And they have managed to climb to the top. Six climbers and guide Dmitriy Yermakov.

Ludmila Korobeshko, Ivan Dusharin and Maksim Shakirov from Expedition “Alpari - Seven Summits in 300 days”, on this day climbed to the Cholera camp at an altitude of 6000 meters. They plan to climb tomorrow. At noon, they met a group of Sergei Bogomolov, the team of project "Ingushetia on the tops of the world." They all descended from the summit. All members, all seven persons were on the top.

Constantin Tsybunov a head of the group Extreme Planet (Planet Fitness Company), sent a historical photograph. February 20, 2012 14:00 Planet Extreme Team at the top of Aconcagua 6962 m.

9 people led by the guide of 7 Summits Club Victor Bobok. February 21 the team went down to the camp Plaza de Mulos.

Planet Extreme is a team of fitness professionals and amateurs, it's an image project of company Planet Fitness. We have 10 years. We invent and organize extreme fitness journey around the world. Now we carry more than 10 trips per year. We visited over 45 countries and made 70 trips.

Dmitry Yermakovs’ group descended to the base camp. All is okay. They have a rest before going on the climb.

Here, there is also a team of climbers from Ingushetia. Her head coach Sergei Bogomolov informs: "Good day! All, all is in order. We are working according to plan, completed acclimatization. Good wishes to the people of the republic! Best regards, Sergey Bogomolov. "

The group guide Vladimir Korenkov, climbers Visa Yusupov, Aznor Hajiyev, Moussa Hadzi, Leila Albogachiev, Magomed Aushev are ready to go to the climb.

Hello from Argentina! Four our groups two days ago landed in Mendoza, that is almost entirely occupied by it. Someone came before. Someone later. Everyone was very fun to everyone. Evening, 25 people sat in a restaurant. The next day the team "Planet Fitness" flew in from Bolivia.

Yesterday, four buses were carrying members of the Seven Summits Club in Penitentes. A caravan of mules left in the morning today in the direction of the Plaza de Mulos with our things. Group of "Bolivians" from Planet Fitness with Victor Bobok was put into a helicopter. The remaining members went on foot toward the confluence camp.

Words are not necessary. All you can express in images. And it will be much more accurate. In the words it is difficult to avoid an official tone, and even some falsehood. We see what it was. We see feelings and emotions, and this is more important. And also we want to soar above humdrum and reality.

Victor Bobok sent photos from his freshest climb the highest peak in South America.

According to Victor call, all team came down to Camp Cholera. Today, they plan to be in the base camp on Plaza de Mulos. We will wait for more information.

Group members: Lily Telenkevich, Andrei Alexeev, Igor Tsepkov, Sergey Dmitriev, Vitaly Simonovic, Mary Dyachenko, Irina Salov, Cyril Muraviev. Guide - Victor Bobok.

International brand Alpari begins a conquest of the seven tallest peaks of continents. Project starts in February with a climb of Aconcagua (6,960 m) in the Argentine Andes. Further Alpari plan to climb on Africa's highest point Mount Kilimanjaro (5895 m), Everest (8848 m), Mount McKinley (6194 m) in Alaska, Elbrus (5642 m), the highest peak in the Australian continent Kosciusko (2,228 m) and the highest mountain in Antarctica - Vinson (5140 m).

Alpari team intends to set a collective world record and to climb all the peaks in a calendar year or even less. Thus, the company seeks, above all, to draw attention to the development of mountaineering in Russia. "Climbing - this is the highest achievement of spirit; record ascent - a symbol of commitment to an absolute success - director of corporate communications Valery Tarasov said. – We understood climbing spirit. Alpari is a right leader in the Forex market, there are no such vertices, which we will not submit ".

In the history of Alpari we had already a few climbs. In 2010, company's employees planted a flag of Alpari on Mount Kilimanjaro, we climbed alpine peaks, Breithorn and Mont Blanc."It's a good tradition – be all together to climb the mountain, overcoming difficulties, cold and difficult conditions. We still can do it!" - The chairman of the Supervisory Board of Alpari Andrey Dashin said. Alpari plans to expand the horizons of their presence - and now on the highest peaks of all seven continents. After climbing, on each of peaks will be officially put up the special flag of "Alpari on top of the world."

The official partners of the project "Alpari on top of the world" will be the "7 Summits Club ", the Federation of Russian Mountaineering, a popular sports media web site www.risk.ru, as well as several manufacturers of specialized clothing and equipment for mountaineers.

Hello! Olga Rumyantseva from Mendoza. Today our expedition to Aconcagua started. This is the first group of 7 Summits Club in this season. Most of the participants arrived in Mendoza by different ways. Now we get together and go try local wines and meat. When the other members arrive, we'll go to the entrance to Aconcagua National Park.

He said that his team: Alexander Apalko, Natalia Nozdrina, Vladimir Rychenko, Victor Serebryakov and Landysh Khafizova – are staying on the highest peak in South America, Mount Aconcagua. The weather is normal, they have extra time and they hope that the descent will take place without problems. The first attempt to assault, which took place on February 24 has been interrupted at an altitude of 6,800 meters. Our group just stopped by Rangers. The wind was very strong and cold wind, so that they were generally right. Not all participants were able to stay and decide on a second attempt, the team dropped to four. Still uncompromising mountain forced to surrender their tenacity ...

02/27/2011. Letter from Nikolay Zakharov. Krasnoyarsk (Siberia) team

After two days of rest 22 and February 23 at the base camp at the "Plaza de Mulas" team of 10 people on Feb. 24 came out on the ascent.

Unfortunately, the evening of February 23 the weather turned bad - started snow, which continued the next day. We decided not to wait for better weather, climbed to an altitude of 5500 meters, stayed the night. The next day, Feb. 25, after a snowfall and strong winds reached the height of 6,100 meters, where, setting three tents, sleeping.

February 26, coming on climbing at 6 am, all team members to the 13 o'clock reached the highest point of America - the top of Aconcagua, 6,962 meters above sea level. At the top were raised flags of Russia, Krasnoyarsk region, Krasnoyarsk and Krassporta.

At the top were:

Antipin, Sergey

Bakaleinikov Eugene

Karlov Alexander

Kozyrenko Eugene

Kokhanov Valery

Peshkin Alexandr

Smetanin Nicholay

Taranenko Natalia

Filippov, Arkady

Hatnyuk Ivan

The first attempt to climb Aconcagua by he group of 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Victor Bobok was failed. Inclement weather forced our climbers to turn back, not reaching the top. According to preliminary information, five climbers Alexander Apalkov, Natalia Nozdrina, Vladimir Rychenko, Victor Serebryakov and Landysh Khafizova plan to make another attempt. Together with guides Viktor Bobok and Mara Barbeyra. Although little time is left. But surprisingly, the first time this season, the weather forecast is favorable. Three climbers Konstantin Beirat, Ilya Kovalev, Pavel Kostrikin already gone down, the exact reasons yet unknown to us. Sick before Konstantin Tsybunov already sent greetings to the Iguassu Falls.

Valery Kokhanov and Eugene Kozyrenko, the first team from Krasnoyarsk climbers, reached the summit of Aconcagua. They started climbing on February 21 at 6 am акщь the assault camp, situated at an altitude of 6,100 meters. At 13 am local time they reached the summit - 6962 meters. Two more climbers Sergey Antipin and Arkady Filippov all this time were in the assault camp, providing insurance for climbers in case of bad weather. Severe frost and wind could not prevent climbers from Krasnoyarsk fulfill their mission: to explore and a route for the whole team. A team ascent, in which Kokhanov and Kozyrenko and will also participate, is scheduled to begin February 24 and end on February 27.

Valery Kokhanov: "Way up was much harder than I thought”.

Acclimatization of our third group of Aconcagua ended. Victor Bobok appeared in skype from the Plaza de Mulos. Nothing good has happened with the weather: still snowing, blizzard. Even worse. An exit at Nido de Condores was not easy. Unfortunately, Constantine Tsybunov fall ill and now he is already in a warm Mendoza. The remaining climbers Alexander Apalko, Constantine Beirat, Ilya Kovalev, Pavel Kostrikin, Natalia Nozdrina, Vladimir Rychenko, Victor Serebryakov and Landysh Khafizova with a guide of 7 Summits Club Viktor Bobok will wait for bearable weather at the base camp. Prognosis is not good. Our friends from Krasnoyarsk today tried to break through to the top, do not yet know how it happened.

According to a report from the site TOCHKASTRAHOVKA.RU two athletes from Krasnoyarsk Valery Kokhanov and Eugene Kozyrenko started to the summit

Victor Bobok and his team, Alexander Markelov, Igor Pchelyakov and Sergey Chernyshev climbed yesterday the highest peak in South America Mount Aconcagua. Now they have descended to base camp Plaza de Mulos and having rest. Everything went almost perfectly, they expect soon to be in Mendoza.

 A little more detail. The team starts on February, 3 in 2 a.m. from the camp Nido de Condores (5500m). Several groups, together with our group, began to climb. However, most of them soon turned back. The strong wind did not seem to give any chances. Our foursome team also questioned the advisability of continuing climb. In the area of Independencia (6500), they sat down in a relatively sheltered place and waited. A couple of hours later they decided to go up. Only two Americans, followed by our group. Visibility was good, so our group is also stretched during the ascent of Canaleto. The last of the group was on top at 5 p.m.. At 9 p.m. all group came down to the camp at Nido. extremely tired, but happy, as it should be. The next morning, they descended on the Plaza de Mulos in just 1:20, where they waited for mules. And as they went into the gallery to our friend the artist Miguel.

Eight members of the expedition reached the summit: Denis Abuev, Igor Barabeshkin, Alexey Boutin, Alexander Viktorov, Igor Kadochin Pavel Laktyushkin, Boris Pavlov, Igor Cherkashin. As well as our guides: Victor Bobock and Olga Rumyantseva. Plus one local guide Mara Barbeiro, thanks to her ! Weather conditions are very heavy, strong winds, but it was the same all season. The average success rate on Aconcagua at this moment is around 20%. We have - 70% !

Video

Victor Bobok went from Mendoza to Aconcagua with a new group. Due to cancelation of several participants, the team arrived in Argentina only partly - 3 persons: Alexander Markelov, Igor Pchelyakov and Sergey Chernyshev. Bad weather is a sure sign of a good one. We wish to make this sign worked and the ascent of our team will be with shining sun, with no wind at all. Old-timers under Aconcagua can not remember such a bad season. Occasional gaps between storms need just be caught. According to the National Park information, 117 people have received assistance from the rescuers, they were helped down from the slopes of Aconcagua.