Nepal - Page 12

Alexander Abramov, Expedition Leader, President of the 7 Summits Club: We're all at Base Camp. And we are already waiting for the helicopter in Kathmandu. Everyone is happy. The team is great!

Dmitry Moskalev on Lhotse

The Everest climbers from the 8000 Club team with their leader Viktor Volodin safely descended from Camp 2 through the icefall and arrived at the Base Camp. A solemn meeting was arranged for the heroes here and in the evening they received diplomas on climbing the highest peak in the World. Alex Abramov's team descended from the summit of Mount Everest after successfully climbing to Camp 2 for the night. Dmitry Moskalev came down here from the summit of Lhotse.  We are waiting for everyone at the Base Camp tomorrow!

 This morning we received a message that Alexander Abramov's team climbed the summit of Mount Everest and began the descent. They reached the camp on the South Col.

Dmitry Moskalev reached the summit of Lhotse. He is also on the descent. We are waiting for further information.

 This morning, the ascent on the summit of Mount Everest was made by members of the 8000 Club group Adrian Ahritculesei (Romania), Denis Grachev, Sergey Mikhalev and Konstantin Simon. Now this group, together with Viktor Volodin, spends the night in Camp 2 at an altitude of 6500. Alex Abramov's group went up to the assault camp and was already supposed to go on the ascent. Dmitry Moskalev also went up to the assault camp. But he has a different aim and a different camp. He must go out to storm the summit of Lhotse. Good luck to everyone!

News from Everest. Viktor Volodin's group (8000 Club) is going to storm Mount Everest from Camp 4 on the Southern Saddle at 9 p.m. today. The wind, due to which there have been no ascents for three days, is subsiding. As it was predicted. Unfortunately, Leonid decided to end the expedition. He has already safely descended to the base camp.

 Alex Abramov's group (the 7 Summits Club) in full force went up to Camp 3 and is now resting.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

There's a very strong wind up there today, it's been blowing all night. Our team decided to spend another day at an altitude of 6500m in Camp 2.

Viktor Volodin's team went to Camp 4 on the South Col. I think there is a strong wind there now.

We will go to Camp 3 tomorrow. We are resting today.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 After a good rest, our team went out to storm Mount Everest. Many expeditions to 8000 meters were canceled or ended in failure. We hope that our experience will help us.

 So, our schedule:

May 14 - Camp 2

May 15 - Camp 3

May 16 - South Saddle

May 17 ascent and descent to Camp 2

May 18 descent to the Base Camp

On May 19th, wait for us in Kathmandu.

On May 8, 2024, a historic chess tournament was held at the Everest base camp, which was attended by professional chess players and amateurs, climbers and walkers, Russians and Nepalese. It is very important that the competition was held according to all sports rules, under the close supervision of professional referee Sergey Moiseev. The parties had a very strict time limit, but they were not only recorded, but also broadcast over the Internet. All possible difficulties were overcome, and in the end we got an event that we at the 7 Summits Club have the right to be proud of.

Full gallery (171 pictures)

Full tournament record from the Russian Mountaineering Federation

Fragments of a chess tournament

Awarding

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 May 11th. Greetings from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp! Yesterday, half of the camp went down. It was a fairly large Indian expedition (about 10 participants and the same number of Sherpas). They spent a month and a half on the mountain and after another unsuccessful attempt to hang the ropes (on May 8-9, the national team tried to do this, but only reached 7,400), they decided to curtail the expedition.

As a result, our team of 6 people remained at Dhaulagiri, and another international team of 7 people.

As of yesterday morning, the input data was as follows

  In fact, there are no fixed ropes. Those that the team re-(!) hung up to 7,400 a day ago are already under the snow. It needs to be re-hung, and from C1 - there are many cracks opened.

  The condition of the site from C2 to C3 is very avalanche-prone.

  The ropes are all used up, we need to bring new ones from Kathmandu.

  And the main thing is the weather. Snowfall is expected daily for the next 8-9 days…

After weighing all this, we decided to wind down. The members of the international team said they were waiting for our decision (they have almost no Sherpas for making the route). And they were very happy when they found out that we were winding down. They said that everything was correct. By the way, there are very interesting characters in the national team. Anna Tybor from Poland, who planned to ski down from the top of Dhaulagiri.  Arjun is a Hindu who became the youngest climber to descend Lhotse and Everest in 2010. He is making a 14X8000 project. He says that he has agreed on the possibility of entering Pakistan, and this is the main problem for Hindus. He hopes to become the first Indian to climb all 14 eight-tiers. Aiden is a climber from Turkey who has climbed 10 out of 14. This is his third time on Dhaulagiri. And some more interesting characters. We've become friends here.

After making a difficult decision, we had a farewell dinner.

We've been waiting for a helicopter to fly to Pokhara all morning.   By 13.00 he almost reached us, then everything was covered with clouds and heavy snow began to fall.

We hope to leave tomorrow morning now… Some participants have ideas to try to rush to Kangchenjunga and Lhotse. But first we need to get to Kathmandu.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

The Everest-24 team, led by Alexander Abramov, finished their vacation in Namche Bazaar.

On May 12th, we all fly to the Everest Base Camp. On May 13th, we have rest and preparation. On May 14th we will start at Camp 2. On May 15th - Camp 3. On May 16th - Camp 4 on the South Col and on the night of May 16th to 17th we go out to storm Everest. Wish us good luck!

Valery Babanov and Eduard Kubatov also rested here in Namche Bazaar. Valera plans Everest without additional oxygen, Eduard – Lhotse, also without additional oxygen.

Alla Mishina conveyed the following information.

Kangchenjunga, 05/11/2024.  Message from Sergey Seliverstov:

"Yesterday at 19.30 everyone went out to storm the summit. We turned around from 7700m - a lot of snow, avalanche danger. We went down to the Base Camp".

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 Yesterday, on May 9, our team was able to fly from Everest Base Camp to Namche Bazaar with great difficulty in very bad weather. The flight was extreme. In conditions of very poor visibility, we flew very low. We are currently vacationing in Namche. Bars, massages, food and sleep.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 8000 Club, reports from the Everest base camp:

Good afternoon! Today, the 8000 Club team went up to the helipad from morning to early, after a rest, hoping to fly to the base camp. At first, there was no light and no hint that we would get to the base camp today. But less than an hour later, our yellow helicopter loomed in the sky. And within an hour, the whole group was delivered to the Base Camp. Here, as usual, we were warmly and well received, and accordingly, we were well fed. Then we held another class on the use of oxygen equipment. Each participant independently tried this wonderful device on himself. Tomorrow we have a day of preparation and training for entering the high-altitude area.  And on the night of May 12th, we go out to storm. All feel good. Wish us an easy and safe road, and an easy descent to the base camp, and then home!

Nepal, Base Camp Everest - Lukla - Kathmandu

Hello everyone from cool Kathmandu! Yes, it's not hot in Kathmandu right now either, just like in the Everest base camp, as well as in Moscow!

Today was a busy day, it's also a holiday on May 9th.

The trekker team spent their reserve day at the Everest Base, watching the chess "tournament of the century" and getting to know the life of Everest expeditions closer and deeper.

But, there are no reserve days left, we need to get out to civilization, and the weather is so-so. We decided not to take any chances and go out early in the morning towards Feriche, where there are more chances to catch the summer weather. A little bit of hassle, expectations and our team, as well as the chess team, were in Kathmandu in the evening, by the pool in Hyatt. Although there was no doubt about it.

In the evening, there was a festive farewell dinner at the delicious La Sherpa restaurant, where the participants were awarded and many warm words were said.

It's nice to realize that in such a short period the team has rallied, received a lot of unforgettable (in a good way) impressions and the participants take with them only bright and positive memories.

Have a good trip home and see you again!

Yours are Valery Myasoedov, Andrey Berezin, Anastasia Kuznetsova

Nepal / Kathmandu 2024.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 Greetings from the members of the expedition from BС Dhaulagiri! Today we had a double holiday - Victory Day and the Birthday of Igor Smirnov, a member of the expedition.

Our morning started with the song "Victory Day" and active holiday exercises.

At breakfast, we congratulated Igor with a cake, deciding that we would arrange a more serious celebration later in the evening. But then the participants of the neighboring expedition came to our dining room with congratulations and gifts for Igor. So we opened the champagne and started celebrating all at once. Then the male half of our exp went for a walk, and Ira and I had a bath day.

Before lunch, the fix-ropes team came down. They barely managed to climb from C2 to C3 in a strong wind and snowfall in 14 hours (usually 5-7 hours). Avalanches swept by several times, one even slightly touched them. At night, they even made an attempt to climb above Camp 3, but quickly turned around due to the avalanche-prone situation and bad weather.

Besides us, there is only one more expedition here near Dhaulagiri - a team of Indians with Pioneer company. But after these events, they decided to curtail the expedition.

In general, we are still looking at forecasts - but there will be snowfall in the next 8-10 days. Tomorrow we will gather a consultation and decide how to live on.

The weather in BC is average - either snowfall or wind. But sometimes the sun comes through. All the participants of our expedition are cheerful and hope for the best.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Nepal:

 Greetings to all from the slopes of Mount Lobuche!  We had no communication while we were in the assault camp. In the morning, we left the village of Lobuche and went up to the assault camp in three hours. The weather turned bad there, and we held training sessions in a tent under the snow! We rested before going out. At midnight we had breakfast and went up. Due to the snowfall, the road was very slippery and heavy. By dawn it got better, we went to the beginning of the ropes and ice. We put on the crampons and started climbing the ropes. As a result, we climbed to the top in 9 hours. Then we had a long descent to the Lobuche Lodge. We didn't get there until 9 p.m. And now we have gone down to Lukla by helicopter and are waiting for a flight to Kathmandu.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

Today, the first ever chess tournament was held at the Everest base camp – Ever Chess. Chess players from Russia and Nepal took part in it. Grandmaster and mountaineer Alexander Ryazantsev won.

 Official information about the Russian Chess Federation tournament

The results of the Ever-Chess tournament have been summed up.

According to the results of the additional games, grandmaster Alexander Ryazantsev became the winner of the tournament, beating Yuri Kalinichenko by only half a point. Vladimir Shumilin won the bronze medal.

The prize fund was also divided among themselves in descending order: Andrey Minkov, Yulia Kholodnova, Andrey Fedorov, Peter Minkov, Alexander Abramov, German Koshelev, Gennady Dutov.

Ever-Chess was the first tournament that was successfully held at the highest point in the world (5360 meters, Everest Base Camp).

The tournament was held in a friendly and fun atmosphere. Among the spectators were citizens of Japan, Russia, the USA and Nepal.

The tournament was organized by the 7 Summits Club with the support of the Russian Chess Federation.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 Greetings to all from BC Dhaulagiri from our cheerful team!

Today we had a day of preparation for the summit assault. In the morning, we did exercises with elements of Turkish breathing exercises, which was conducted by our Turkish friend from the neighboring expedition. After breakfast, high-altitude meals were distributed by day and personal belongings were collected.

But by lunchtime, the advance fix-ropes team got in touch. They reported that the weather is bad (snow and wind) and the condition of the route is very difficult - deep dry snow. In 12 hours they did not manage to get from C2 to C3…

In such a situation, it was decided to postpone our exit for a few days. According to the forecast, the nearest window is probably May 14-15.

But we were very pleased with the video message from our friends from Transglobal Car. They even dedicated poems to us! So we try not to lose heart and wait for the weather to improve.

Official publication on the website of the Russian Chess Federation:

In total, from the city of Lukla to the base camp, the chess players had to overcome 50 kilometers and climb from a height of 2,860 meters to a height of 5,364 meters during seven days of the hike.

Tomorrow, from 8:15 Moscow time and 11:00 Nepal time, the chess tournament starts at the highest natural altitude.

The chess players will have to play 9 games according to the Swiss system with a control of 10’+3”.

Recall that the competition will be held at the highest altitude, not counting the chess games played in space. The tournament will feature a prize pool of 7 million rubles.

The games will be broadcast on the channel of the Russian Chess Federation.

Hello everyone! Koniyaki group is in touch! Tonight, part of the bravest group conquered the panoramic peak of Kala Patthar. After that, our friendly team went down to the village of Lobuche, where it was time for us to split up.

The trekkers went down Dingboche, and a group of climbers to the summit of Lobuche East stayed in the village of Lobuche.  They wanted to hold training classes, but it started snowing heavily and they decided to postpone it. Tomorrow, the climbing team ascends to the Lobuche base camp and there will be no contact with them for several days.