Nepal - Page 28

News from the Manaslu expedition led by Sergey Larin.  Project guide.8000 (14 eight-thousandths). Today our expedition in full force reached the high-altitude camp 3 (7000 m). All participants feel well. Tomorrow, according to the plan, the team will move to Camp 4 (7400m) and on the same night they will start for the final summit push. That is, the assault on the summit is planned for the morning of September 22. Wish good luck to our team!

Sergey Larin, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Manaslu reports from Nepal:

News of the project 8000.guide.  Our plans have changed once again due to the change in the forecast and the actual weather.  Today, 17.09, we held training with oxygen equipment. We're going up tomorrow after all. There will be no communication for several days.

 Our friend Tashi Sherpa sent photos and videos from the Manaslu base camp, where in total there is also a section of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Sergey Larin. On the eve of the traditional puja ceremony took place under the incessant rain and the climbers received a blessing for a successful ascent and descent.

Sergey Larin, leader of the expedition on Manaslu, from Nepal:

News of the program 8000.guide.

13.09. Day of rest at the base camp. Puja, as it turned out, is scheduled for 15. 09. And this makes adjustments to our plans. Now we can start further acclimatization only on September 16. Going out without puja is not good for karma. We decided not to spoil karma.

14.09. We held ice classes in the rain. We are already used to rain and fog.

Simone Moro flew into the base camp, but he can't fly down yet because of the weather.

He participated in the rescue work here. In difficult conditions, he removed a climber from Dubai from the route, who became ill at 6400.

News of the Project 8000.guide.

10.09.  A day of rest at the base camp.

11.09. Acclimatization rotation to Camp 1 (5650m) with overnight stay. The base camp stretches along the slope for 150m, we are at an altitude of 4860m at the very beginning of the camp. There is a wet corner here, there is less precipitation below and above, but there is no better place for a camp. It rains every day, sometimes turning into sleet, most of the time we are in a cloud. But our tents are adapted to this climate, completely waterproof, insulated, with beds and mattresses.

12.09. All participants went down to the base after acclimatization rotation. It's all good. Everyone tolerates high altitude well.  We had shower and rest.

Sergey Larin, leader of the expedition on Manaslu, from Nepal:

News 7 Project 8000.guide. Since the Internet was turned off for several days due to clouds, news has accumulated, which I am sending now. 

7.09. Acclimatization rotation from the loggia in Samagaon to the lake, and then to the village of Samdu.

8.09. Acclimatization rotation to the monastery and the place where the hermits live at 4100m. A unique, little-visited place.

9.09. Move to the base camp at 4800m. All participants feel well. So far, everything is going according to plan, according to the program. Our tents are located first at the entrance to the base camp.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Larin reports from Nepal: 

News from the 14x8000 project team. Today, on September 6th, as planned, we flew by helicopter to the village of Samagaun, Moonshine according to Russian (3800m), to the starting point for the start of the ascent to Manaslu. The weather was  good for flying, we were lucky. Moonshine is not made here for some reason, but Ruslan vodka is sold. The Ruslan vodka bottling plant was built in Nepal under the USSR with the assistance of the Moscow Crystal Plant. We plan to spend three nights here for acclimatization.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Larin reports from Nepal:  A new project “8000. Guide”. It begins with the expedition on Manaslu (8156m) and continues along the list, which, as you know, includes 14 items. The first participants have already arrived in Kathmandu. There are 5 people in the climbing group with me and one person with a permit to the base camp. The climbing permit has just been received. I signed the papers on 10 sheets. It seems that the monsoon has not completely left Nepal yet. Such weather is common for September. But the ascent on Manaslu is carried out at the end of September, Because, despite the abundance of precipitation, it is still warm at altitude and not such strong winds.

The night at the camp 2 was a bit hectic.

The first time I woke up at about ten o'clock in the evening from the fact that B. was hopelessly crying out in the next tent:

- Oxygen! Bring me oxygen! Will someone eventually bring me oxygen?!

And from another nearby tent, Dr. Larin answered melancholically:

- Yes, I'm coming, I'm coming. I'm already putting on my shoes.

Then all night I woke up from a terrible thirst, it's good that there were water supplies at hand as usual. And also from unpleasant sensations in the throat, which began the day before and now turned into some kind of sleep-disturbing cough.

In general, so-so night.

By the morning it turned out that B., who took off his glasses every now and then during the descent, burned his eyes and now sees nothing. A helicopter was about to arrive for him.

The rest of the members of the Khumbu Walking Club gradually woke up and crawled out of the tents.

Whole text is in Russian. Detailed description of the ascent on Everest…

 Photos of Olga Rumyantseva. Everest expedition. The Summit! The Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club has ended. Eight participants, two guides and 11 Sherpas have reached the summit! Read more in our chronicle…

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest. Day 28. May 16. Move to the camp on the South Col. The height is about 8000 meters.  Climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4. Olga Rumyantseva, who usually works as a guide for the 7 Summits Club company, is on the expedition as a participant this time. She reached the South Col with her personal Sherpa Nima at three o'clock in the afternoon.  And at eight o'clock the start of the decisive attempt has already been scheduled…

 Source: Life as an Adventure… (detailed diary of the expedition in Russian)

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 That's the end of our Everest-2022 expedition. Today we had the last presentation of medals to those members who have not yet left Nepal…

 And today I have already discussed with the 10-time Everest climber World record holder Lhakpa Sherpa a new project - The World Woman Everest Expedition WWEE.

Olga Rumyantseva, a team member, Everest summiter:  The morning was unfairly early. At half past six I was woken up by passing yaks, and immediately the morning  wake-up-tea, which I refused as usual. Getting out of a warm sleeping bag into an ice tent was especially disgusting. The consolation was that it had to be done for the last time.

And it also had to be done quickly. Because by seven-thirty in the morning it was necessary to pack all things in bags and prepare for a possible departure.

The first helicopter was expected at eight in the morning. However, looking out of the tent in the morning, we found that the promised bad weather seems to have happened, and the helicopter cannot fly, neither the first nor the second. Everything was shrouded in dense fog.

But a miracle happened, and at nine in the morning, a small yellow helicopter flew to us through a veil of advancing and retreating clouds.

And then, even more miraculously, along the route Base camp - Periche - Lukla - Kathmandu, we teleported to a completely different world.

And already at one o'clock in the afternoon we were sitting in the hotel restaurant.

However, only half of the participants were so lucky. But I hope that the second half will also reach us today.

By the way, part of our team acted even more cunningly. They arrived at the second camp, boarded a helicopter, flew to the base camp. And they were in Kathmandu yesterday, while we were stomping on the Khumbu glacier.

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 The expedition is coming to an end. The entire program of acclimatization and climbing Mount Everest was completed in 30 days. It's fast. Firstly, it is an experience of organizations. The 7 Summits Club has organized more than 30 Himalayan expeditions. Secondly, we had a great team this year. And of course, we were lucky with the weather, the weather window on Everest lasted more than a week.

You can say as in a joke: "just lucky!"

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

That‘s all! The final descent on the Khumbu icefall. And the whole team is already in the Base Camp. The evening turned out to be a great party. Participants and Sherpas gathered. The summit cake was served. Tomorrow we plan to fly by helicopter to Kathmandu.

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 Today, on April 17th at 4:00 am, 8 participants, 2 guides and 11 Sherpas were standing on the top of Mount Everest. Daniel Wolfson and Dawa Sherpa also climbed to the top of Lhotse at 2:30 a.m. 

Immediately after the descent, at 9 am, the weather deteriorated sharply. That's what we were counting on.

Also today is Natalia Bykovskaya's  birthday. Let's congratulate her!

Daniel Wolfson, a member of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club, left the assault camp yesterday at 20-20 (May 16th) together with the guide Dawa Sherpa.  At 2-20 local time May 17th, they were at the top of the fourth highest mountain in the World, Lhotse (8516 m).  Congratulations to our friend, an Israeli mountaineer born in the USSR!

 At 4:10 Nepal time, a message from Alexander Abramov came over the radio:

 Everyone who came out of the saddle (8 participants, 2 guides and Sherpas) reached the top!!!  There is a descent ahead - congratulations are accepted only at the base camp.

List of climbers:

Alexander Brychkin

Natalia Bykovskaya

Veronika Zaripova

Kovalenko Lilia

Kuprichenkov Fedor

Manevich Boris

Motorkin Sergey

Rumyantseva Olga

Guides:

Alexander Abramov

Artem Rostovtsev.

Dmitry Ermakov and Mikhail Kozlov did not go on the ascent for health reasons.

Sherpas guides:

1          Lakpa Gelu Sherpa

2          Lakpa Sherpa

3          Lakpa Ongjuk Sherpa

4          Ngima Dorchi Sherpa

5          Dawa Sherpa

6          Ngima Nurbu Sherpa

7          Dawa Temba Sherpa- LHOTSE SHERPA

8          Rinjin Wongel Sherpa

9          Ngima Thindu Sherpa

10        Nima Dindu Sherpa

11        Nima Ungdi Sherpa

12        Ngima Ongda Sherpa

13        Dawa Chhiring Sherpa

14        Lakpa Gelu Sherpa

15        Mingdukpa Sherpa

16        Milan Sherpa

17        Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa

18        Ngima Ongdi Sherpa

19        Rinjen Sherpa

20        Pemba Nurbu Sherpa

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

The group climbed to the assault camp at an altitude of 8000 meters.  This is the South Col. The participants are resting and preparing for the decisive assault.  The start is scheduled for 21:00 local time (in Moscow it is 18:00, soon). Wish us good luck!

According to Svetlana Kotlyar, her group climbed to the top of Lhotse (8516 m) directly from Camp 2, located at an altitude of 6500 meters. That is, without spending a night in two intermediate camps 3 and 4. An excellent achievement! We are delighted! Congratulations to our wonderful social media manager, our beauty with the first eightthousander! Svetlana made the ascent according to the program of the Gornyashka Club, in the group of our partner company "14 Summits Expedition".

Alex Abramov from the slopes of Mount Everest:

The group got to Camp 3. The tents are standing well. We have eaten well and are resting. Tomorrow at 7:00 the exit to the assault camp at 8000m. Wish us good luck!