Tibet - Page 10

Now the entire team of 7 Summits Club successfully descended from the mountains and now is preparing  packs.

 Tomorrow, on the 25th we leave by cars in Shigatse and the day after (May 26) we plan on the flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu.

And now for an hour to relax and to take stock:

27 people on the top of Mount Everest!

15 members and guides + 12 Sherpas.

Several Russian and World Records! About its - below ...

Decisions on the graphics  were  difficult this year. Weather did not allow to take unequivocal decisions. Always it was snowing and it seemed that the monsoon has arrived. But the state of the route for the ascent was terrific. All the rocky areas and sloping rock slabs were covered with a thick layer of snow and firn. This allowed the speed of movement along the entire route to be the fastest.

And, nevertheless, we note that the long experience of leadership helped us to choose the best two days for climbing. That led to such a great success!

Summiters of May 20:

Abramov  Alexander (7 times)

Korobeshko Lyudmila (3 times) woman,

Kharazova Irena woman,

Moroz Vladislav,

Reutov Roman,

Pimenov Oleg,

Kotlyar Vladimir (all – Russia),

and a woman Lakpa Sherpa, USA - Nepal (7th time at the top of Mount Everest)

plus 7 Sherpas.

Summiters on May 21:

Hannah Noel (8 times),

Hannah Lynn (2 times), woman both – Northern  Ireland,

Sergey Larin (5 times),

Provalov Denis (2 times),

Demyanenko Igor (Russia),

Kochanski Janusz (Poland),

Yalovchak Tatiana, woman (Ukraine),

Plus 5 Sherpas.

We have once again proved that the 7 Summits Club team was not only the biggest and well secured on the North side of Everest, but also the most experienced and most successful. 15 of the 16 members of the expedition reached the summit. One participant climbed up only to 8500 m, for health reasons.

And most importantly, that all are alive and healthy, cheerful and happy, and all remained friends.

The leader  of the 14th expedition on Everest  of the 7 Summits Club

Alexander Abramov

Record achievements of the expedition:

** Lhakpa Sherpa - the first woman of the 7th seven times ascended Mount Everest.

Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko - the first married couple, three times to climb Mount Everest.

Noel and Lynn Hannah - the first married couple to climb Everest by two routes.

Ludmila Korobeshko – new record of Russia and Europe in the number of ascents on Mount Everest among women.

Alexander Abramov - the first Russian in the 7th time to climb Mount Everest.

May 20th, 2016, 8 a.m.  Nepal time. The Flag of the 1st Russian women's Everest expedition raised above the highest peak of the planet.

Two climber of our women's team were able to climb to the top - Ludmila Korobeshko and Irena Kharazova. Liana Chabdarova is not reached about 300 m vertically.

The last days before the assault she was on analgesics, overcoming back pain. On the night of the assault, it became clear that if the whole team will go at the pace of Liana, the successful achievement of the summit can be jeopardized. Liana was able to take a courageous decision not to delay the group and turn back from the ridge.

On the day of a successful assault on the top of May 20, all participants descended in the evening into the advanced base camp ABC at 6400.

May 21th the second group of 7 Summits Club climbed to the top - under the direction of Sergei Larin and Noel Hanna. Today, May 22th, after almost some rest all members descended to the base camp at 5200  (some people are still on the way and will come in an hour or two).

All members feel well. Tomorrow, May 23th – for celebration. May 24th, we hope to go in the direction of Lhasa and 26 May  to fly to Kathmandu.

Space. We are at 8700 m, passed the third stage.

It is about an hour before the top.

The yellow-blue trousers - it is Irena Kharazova. She clearly knew that the Cosmos begins after the Second Step (a key part of the route) - here every man  is for himself, no one can save ...

Only after passing the SecondStep and approaching the Third, she accidentally discovered with horror that is already more than an hour in space, cruel and merciless ...

 The only thing she begged her Sherpa - in the event of her death, he did not leave her body there, among other bodies. So he will found the opportunity to bring the Sherpa team and to pull down her body.

Thank God - she is now healthy and very happy sitting in BC and enjoying life :)

As promised, we  took at the top of Everest a small icon, which we gave Fedor Konyukhov, blessing our expedition in Moscow before leaving. More Fedor said that he will continue to pray for us. I think, also thanks to his prayers, we all went well.

By the way!

Luda became  the record holder of Europe in the number of climbing Mount Everest!

She is also the only woman in the world twice to finish the program "Seven Summits".

 And with Alexander Abramov - the first three times the couple ascended Mount Everest!

The second group is at the top:

Dennis Provalov and Igor Demyanenko (at 6:20),

Noel Hannah (at 6:45),

Lynn  Hannah,

Janusz Kochanski,

Sergej Larin and Tatiana Yalovchak!

Successful descent!

 Members of the first group safely descended to ABC camp yesterday and today go to base camp: Liana Chabdarova, Irena Hazarova,  Oleg Pimenov, Vlad Moroz  and Vladimir Kotlyar. Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko will be waiting for the descent of the second group.

Roman Reutov stopped at the North Col for making pictures, and now  he  plans to descend to base camp ...

Today at 5 a.m. on Nepal Lhakpa Sherpa reached the summit of Everest. This is her 7th summit (the world record for the women). By 8 a.m., the first group  of  7 Summits Club expedition was standing on top of the world,  as follows:

Alexander Abramov (7th time at the top)

Lyudmila Korobeshko (3rd time at the top)

Alex and Luda - the world's first couple three times  climbed Mount Everest

Vladimir Kotlyar,

Roman Reutov,

Irena Kharazova,

Vlad Moroz,

Oleg Pimenov.

Liana Chabdarova was forced to stop climbing on 8500 due to a headache.

 Now all go down in order to reach to the evening camp ABC at 6400 ...

 Follow the progress of the second group on-line !!!

From Press release The 7 Summits Club Everest expedition:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Hello! This is Alex Abramov, from a height of 7700 meters. Our Sherpas have already left the camp and go up. Our team will start at 11 am up to 8300. Luda Korobeshko and Liana Chabdarova will go .... a little earlier. With them Vladimir Kotlyar will go, our operator. That's the plan. Next message, I hope to send from 8300.  Weather wow, a strong wind blows. That is all, Bye!

Hello! This is Alex Abramov. We pertly went to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters. The Weather is perfect. The team is in almost perfect condition. All participants seek for the summit. Tomorrow we go up to the camp at  8300 meters.

 Bye!

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from the North Col of Everest. The weather is beautiful, our first team moves up. Today, according to the plan we do clinb to a height of 7600 meters. Tomorrow – on 8300,    and the day after tomorrow, on May 20, should be a summit bid. In our first team: Alexander Abramov, Lyudmila Korobeshko, Irena Kharazova, Liana Chabdarova,  Oleg Pimenov, Vlad Moroz, Roma Reutov  and Vladimir Kotlyar. Eight people.  Everyone feels fine. The weather is beautiful, the prospects - excellent! Bye!

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Lhakpa Sherpa – 7th summit, world woman record.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

  https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

The Everest Team of the 7 Summits Club is in the ABC camp at an altitude of 6400 meters. All expedition members are healthy and ready for the ascent. As long as we have to wait. There is nothing strange happens - it happens every year. Chinese (Tibetan) climbers are going to go to complete the processing of the route, the expedition is expected in full combat readiness

Listen to audio message:

May 15^th on the first group going up:

- Women's Russian team (Irena Kharazova,  Liana Chabdarova and Lyudmila Korobeshko);

- Vlad Moroz;

- Oleg Pimenov;

- Roman Reutov;

- Vladimir Kotlyar;

- Alexander Abramov.

For  the summit bid in a window on May 20-21

May 16^th  the second group starts:

- Noel Hanna;

- Hannah Lynn;

- Janusz Kochanski;

- Tatiana Yalovchak;

- Igor Demyanenko;

- Sergej Larin;

- Denis Provalov.

For the summit bid in a window on May 21-22

With the second  group, but only to the North Col:

- Jamila Murtazina;

- Maxim Shakirov;

- Przemysław Simeon (Noel Group videooperator)

- Zbignew Wolny  (Noel Group videooperator)

- Alexander Kubasov (RD studio videooperator).

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Lying in the Base Camp in a sleeping bag  it is easier to think than at 7000.

What's happening? Yes, as usual, the Chinese pulled with a fixed ropes. The Weather is snowing. The route has more than 1 m of snow. Wind is weak. It does not blow away the snow.

We rest in the lower camps. Yesterday there was a concert of guitar music and singing. Moveв for cinema. They took as participants go to bed. What else to move?

At the Base Camp and other camps in the abstract there are several Ukrainian girls, each of whom wants to climb Mount Everest. But they have feeble chance. And girls are slender,  gaunt already by waiting. Our Tanya is full of strength and desire!

In general, all are alive and healthy. And ready to storm.

It is kaif - in the morning to lie in a tent and philosophize. ))

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our impulse to move sharply upward was stopped by snow and the lack of a fixed ropes. But this, in some sense, the audit showed the willingness of absolutely all the participants for the assault at any moment.

We now have probably the most difficult period of the expedition.  First of all psychologically – it is waiting with so many ever-changing introductory. The weather forecast  changes daily (or more accurately, no end of snowfall). Normal and good window is not visible.

 Information from the Chinese changed about when they will finish fixing ropes to the summit. So there are many reasons  to be fidgety. We are encouraged by the fact that no one in our team use it. Everyone understands that patience– it is a  part of successful expedition.

Almost all participants had been ill, stopped to wash (to not get sick again;), everything getting thinner and tanned, we got used to each other.

Today we go to the Middle Camp to 5800. While as on the trip, but we'll see ...

 Yesterday, almost all members of the team went to the Old Monastery Rongbuk ...

The Everest-2016  team rested three days in the village Tashidzong. May 9^th, The Victory Day, we went up to the base camp. While our plans are not clear, it all depends on when the Tibetan climbers prepare the route. By tradition, the Victory Day was marked in the base camp, a reception, to which were invited guests from other expeditions...

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

 The  Team of the 7 Summits Club completed the acclimatization on Everest. All members, guides and video crew came  down to rest in the base camp. Members  who had a permit to the North Col, are ready to return home. Congratulations to those who established there their  altitude records!

 Unfortunately, due to the severe weather conditions, not all of them were able to climb the North Col. All participants with permits for Everest spent two nights at an altitude of 7000 meters at the North Col. And they made the climb  to an altitude  of  about 7500 meters. Everything goes according to plan the expedition. Although the snow conditions were more severe than usual. The expedition will rest first at the base camp, and then go down  in  the valley. Then the group will return to the base camp, then climb tj the ABC camp to wait for a weather window to climb to the summit.

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our group made a second acclimatization circle with one overnight stay in the Camp Middle and two overnight stays in camp ABC at 6400.

 The most difficult were two factors: a strong wind, which bent tents almost to the ground, and the presence of mice at the 6400, which caused extremely violent reaction of the Armenian part of the women's group.

 Ice and fixed rope training went according to the plan. I would especially like to note the debut of Christina Kozlova. It was the first time in her life she picked up jumar, descender, self-belay and carabiner. And she could confident use all for the first time at an altitude of 6400. Where the usual things hardly repeat. Christina - chief director RD studio, and theoretically she could just walk around the base camp and give orders.

 After two nights at the 6400 all rushed down with incredible speed: to bath, pool and cinema.

In the next three days the expedition will rest according the plan.

Today we have a day of complete rest,  we went down  1000m, drink thick O2 at 4200, eat tomatoes with sugar, catch fish, driving along the rivers by car, and  dance on the ruins of castles ...

Lyudmila Korobeshko:  the Puja ceremony  was hold today in our camp. It means a blessing of all participants for a successful ascent. Lama of Rongbuk Monastery performed the ceremony. Now we definitely ready for the 6400! Today we will climb  in the Middle Camp, tomorrow – to the ABC

April 24^th.   Yesterday we came back from a two-day acclimatization outing in  the Middle Camp 5800, where they spent the night. Despite the fact that the distance is not very large - 10 km, and the drop is only about 700m, it was not easy to us. We walked up about 8 hours, all time under blowing of strong wind. And the last two hours the snowstorm began. We almost lost the way. In the camp, we came up with numb hands and feet, and some even fall into the river. So 200 gram of vodka Beluga, which Irena prudently brought with her, really saved and warmed us.

 The night at 5800 was quite difficult - the wind was very strong, the strongest for the last week, only by miracle tents were not broken, although some stocks were bent.

 Early in the morning at first light, we rushed down. By lunchtime we were in the base camp.

 In the evening, Facundo Arana came to visit us. He is the star of Argentine cinema (singer and musician, as it later turned out), caused excitement of all our girls. We agreed that in September this year when Facundo will be in Moscow on tour, we will invite him to dinner together with all the participants of the expedition to Everest.

Today, April 24, we have rest day, as well as bath day.

Tomorrow, April 25th we plan for the 4 days  go up: Night at 5800 and two nights in 6400 on the ABC camp.

Together with the participants of the first Russian women's expedition to Everest, we (the team of autoexpedition Toyota - Eveerst) reached the base camp! Here we spend the day, and then start of climbing program. I'll go to the North Col of Everest (7020 meters), three members - to the top.

 Before the base camp we stayed at the Rongbuk Monastery, which is located at an altitude of 4980 meters. It is the highest mountain monastery in the world and an important place of pilgrimage for the Sherpas.

Today, all of our big expedition of the 7 Summits Club (and the 1st Russian women's expedition as a part)  arrived to the Base Camp of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5100.  

 Almost a week we went here. First, Kathmandu, checking gear, document, festive ceremony of the start of the expedition. Then we made the flight to Lhasa at the altitude of 3600 - we were in the capital of Tibet. Visit Potala - the Palace of the Dalai Lama. Moving higher and higher: Shigatse, Xegar (with acclimatization climb to 4700) and today finally arrive at our base camp. The camp is well equipped: individual tents for all members of the expedition, dining room, kitchen, internet club, a huge recreation tent with sports equipment. Well, a sauna, finally. But still, we know from experience, the first night at this altitude is not easy.

However, until now, all members feel  good. In the next couple of days we will be in the base camp to make radial trips to acclimatize.

April 18^th  a large team of members and guides of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club made an acclimatization ascent to the top near a small town in the district Xegar (New Tingri). During the ascent we made a lot of pictures, some of the photos, see the end of our posts. Or full ones here:

Gallery of Roman Reutov

 Gallery of Denis Provalov

BY THE WAY! During the movement of a group can be followed on-line via this link (thanks to Noel Hanna)

Yesterday, the main part of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club moved from the city of Shigatse in Xegar through the highest pass (5300m). At the same time, we continue to make short acclimatization outings and excursions to local attractions.