Tibet - Page 9

On Saturday, December 3  a solemn evening of the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia (FMR) took place in the center of Moscow in the Telegraph hall. The action is devoted to summing up year and delivery of awards to the caused a stir athletes. The awarding the prize "Gold Ice Axe of Russia" for the best climb of year was the main event, of course. However evening began, and it was very pleasant, from a celebration of new summiters of Everest. Since 2012 FMR awards them with the special medal.

 The organizers caused on the stage of our heroes of Everest. Members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club: Vlad Moroz, Roman Reutov, Irena Harazova, Igor Demyanenko. And also Masha Gordon, who climed from the South and forgotten in 2012 (when awarded all, since 1982) Vyacheslav Skripko. A bit later the award found one more heroine – Tatyana Yalovchak from Ukraine. She just was late. Awards will also be transferred to two more participants of our expedition: Oleg Pimenov and Vladimir Kotlyar.

On Saturday, December 3  a solemn evening of the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia (FMR) took place in the center of Moscow in the Telegraph hall. The action is devoted to summing up year and delivery of awards to the caused a stir athletes. The awarding the prize "Gold Ice Axe of Russia" for the best climb of year was the main event, of course. However evening began, and it was very pleasant, from a celebration of new summiters of Everest. Since 2012 FMR awards them with the special medal.

 The organizers caused on the stage of our heroes of Everest. Members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club: Vlad Moroz, Roman Reutov, Irena Harazova, Igor Demyanenko. And also Masha Gordon, who climed from the South and forgotten in 2012 (when awarded all, since 1982) Vyacheslav Skripko. A bit later the award found one more heroine – Tatyana Yalovchak from Ukraine. She just was late. Awards will also be transferred to two more participants of our expedition: Oleg Pimenov and Vladimir Kotlyar.

We congratulate heroes of Everest!

And also the team of Moscow which won "Golden Ice Axe of Russia" for Thalay Sagar new route

and other winners of this evening.

Photos from Facebook from different authors:

Dear Friends,

 It’s not a secret that this spring, we organized an expedition to mount Everest from the North side, in conjunction with «7 Summits Club», «RD Studio», «RedFox», «Yandex» and «Toyota». The expedition was stopped in half way, due to an earthquake magnitude of 8 – We were lucky that nobody from our Expedition was hurt. We were forced to evacuate.

Despite this fact, we managed to create a panoramic view of our 19km route, right from Base Camp (5100m) to Advanced Base Camp (6500m).

The Panoramas were published before the release of the film "Everest".

In the autumn of 2015, inspired by the many positive responses from your side, we decided to finish the job and began to organize an expedition in 2016.

May 20, 2016, we managed to reach the summit (8848м) and completed the full route whilst picturing everything in 3D panoramic views from base camp to the summit. May 22, 2016, we returned to base camp uninjured and safe.

Early June 2016 when we returned to Moscow, we started going through all the raw materials and then commenced our work to ensure it was of the highest standard. We created a special interactive page dedicated to the climb. Now, because of our project, everyone will be able to travel our full journey right from base camp (5100m) up until the summit of Everest (8848м). You will be able to pass this scenic mountainous route without exposing yourselves to any danger. 

We wanted to make such beauty more accessible and wanted to share with you this joy and positivity.

And yes – we were the first in the world to do a full 3D panoramic view of route to highest point in World – Everest Summit!

Thanks to all of those who participated in the project. We really appreciated your support. We appreciated your selfless dedication and inspiring enthusiasm.

Special thanks to:

- Anatoly Topol and Konstantin Lysenko from Yandex team – without your enthusiasm and faith, this project would not have taken place

- Olga Bolotova from the team Neq4 – as the most energetic team member of our project

- RD Studio team, and personally to Valdis Pelsh, Kristina Kozlova, Alexander Kubasov, Vladimir Kudinov – for your support in the mountains – with you there was never a boring moment

- expedition team and to Alexander Abramov – for the excellent organization of the expedition and the feeling of tranquility

- Vladimir Kotlyar and Vlad Moroz – for their selfless help during the expedition, faith and dedication

- Max Shakirov, project partner – because you were always never far behind

- colleagues, to team and to management – thank you very much for the opportunity you gave ma and fot believing in me

- parents, relatives and friends – for their support

- and, of course, to the Toyota team – for «Always a better way»

Together we make the world better – thank you.

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"I want to share with you the inspiring beauty of the world we live in."  Roman Reutov

The event will be held on October 13^th  on Thursday, beginning at 20:00. The 7 Summits Club celebrates its birthday and invites you to share the feast of all his friends and those who would like to become a friend. We invite you to our office ul. Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya, 7. Metro Prospekt Mira.

In the evening we will tell about our key expeditions of 2016, we summarize the results of several months of travel and climbing programs. You will find a meal and attention from the owners.

We present  main guests of the evening:

Oscar Konyukhov, the son and Manager of the greatest Russian traveler, tells about the organization of the expedition Fyodor Konyukhov  "balloon Flight around the world."

The participant of expeditions 7 summits Club, master of sports Alexander Yakovenko will speak about the project team's Vysota. Russian national team on high-altitude mountaineering, which this year closed the project "Snow leopard" five peaks in one summer.

We will also welcome the members of our expedition on Cho-Oyu this year, leader Sergei Larin. They had just come back from the Himalayas and will tell, how was the ascent.

We invited Natalia Kartashov our wonderful guide and instructor on the Crimean rocks. She's in the capital of many friends and we hope that they will not miss the opportunity to see her...

Natasha will tell us about the adventures of a team of 7 summits during the Big autumntrip to the Crimea. In particular, we share the impressions about participation in a unique race Crimea X Run - hard tests, an unforgettable experience!

Come, really looking forward to meeting You!

In 2006 Northern Irish adventurer Noel Hanna summited Everest for the first time in his life, one year after suffering retinal haemorrhaging on his first attempt.

Not content with climbing the world’s tallest mountain, after his descent Hanna then cycled down to sea level.

 In the following year the adventurer would complete the same feat on six different peaks; Mt. Vinson, Cartensz Pyramid, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Denali, Mt. Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua, each the tallest mountains on their respective continents.

 Hanna is the first and so far only person to complete this astounding challenge.

 “It was a good challenge so it was,” he chuckles, reflecting on the superhuman effort.

 Ten years after his first successful Everest attempt, the Dromara-based climber has returned to conquer the mountain a further seven times – twice with his wife.

Hanna’s Everest pet-hate is poorly prepared climbers not respecting the mountain.

He wants to share his wisdom for those looking to take on the unforgiving mountain – less the mountain disrespects them back.

 Training on the hills – then climbing another mountain Hanna’s background in running ultra-marathons meant that he was well prepared for taking on Everest. However, he suggests that we don’t all need to be at that fitness level.

“If you’re a person of regular fitness, running 10ks or half marathons and going to the gym two to three times a week, that’s the base and then it’s just about getting out to the hills and walking with a big rucksack.

“Walking at weekends, maybe a four hour-walk or a five-hour walk in the hills with a backpack on.

“It’s very beneficial if you go to a high mountain before you go to Everest. Somewhere like Aconcagua in South America.”

Noel Hanna and his wife Lynne at the top of Everest (Photo: noelhanna.com)

Training the mind

Hanna suggests that the fitter you are, the more confident you’re going to feel on the mountain.

 “If you’re the weakest on a team, mentally that’s going to bring you down; if you’re one of the fittest on the team, mentally that’s keeping you strong.

“Go at your pace, don’t try and keep up with someone else just because they’re on your team, you have to go at your own body’s pace.”

Hanna’s kit list for Everest expeditions

Equipment for Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp: Duffle bag, sleeping bag, foam pad, gas lamp, gas stove, gas cylinders, personal items for washing, your favourite games, notebook

Technical equipment for ascent: Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12), rucksack 70-80 litres, rucksack 35-40 litres, harness, prussiks, karabiners with screwgate lockers – 3 items, jumar (ascender), telescope ski poles, thermos, rappel device, ice axe, head lamp, photo camera, video camera and assessors, accumulators, personal crockery for high camps

Equipment for body and feet: Trekking shoes, boots of “Everest” Millet type, down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls), Gore-tex jacket with wide hood, Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls), windblock jacket, windblock trousers, jacket “Polartec – 100”, warm underwear, personal underwear, Polartec gloves, Thinsulate gloves, Thinsulate mittens, warm woolen socks, balaclava, warm hat, windblock face mask, UV glasses, ski goggles (preferably), gaiters

Hone your ropework in the

Highlands Any technicals skills required to take on Everest can be perfected in the Scottish Highlands, or the Alps, according to Hanna.

“With Everest, there’s a technical side to it, but you don’t need to be super skilled on ropework for Everest.”

 Hanna says it is essential to religiously work on your ropework, be confident in rapelling (abseiling) and jumarring (climbing up a rope).

 Additionally, would-be Everest climbers need to be competent in clipping in and out of ropes, as well as passing anchors.

 “All of that could be done in the Highlands of Scotland or even in a climbing gym, but obviously it’s more beneficial to get in the snow with your crampons on and doing the training that way, or going to the Alps and doing Mont Blanc.”

Don’t rely on the sherpa

All climbers must be capable of doing the climb by themselves and there can be no over-reliance on sherpas.

 “A lot of people will think ‘Oh I’ve got a sherpa, if something happens to me he’s carrying me down’, but if the sherpa feels that his life is at risk he’s going to leave you.”

Tortellini and Coca-Cola

Hanna suggests that a drastic change in diet isn’t necessary for taking on the mountain.

“Some people take protein powders, but I don’t. I just eat normally, I don’t change my diet from home when I’m on the mountain because most good expeditions on the mountain, especially in the North side, get fresh stuff in all the way to base camp.

“We cook food all the way up to 7,000 metres and it’s really only on summit push at 7,700 and 8,300 that you use boil in the bag food, but normally we would have tins of tuna and foil packs of tuna.

“Ideally I like to put on maybe two or three pounds before I go to the mountain.

” Keeping yourself well fed even when your appetite fades is essential, says Hanna.

“A lot of people over 6 -7,000 metres lose their appetite. You need to force yourself to eat. It’s like a car if you don’t put petrol in it, it’s not going to go.”

 The Northern Irishman’s unconventional eating and drinking habits suggests there is room for a few home comforts when tackling the fearsome summit.

“The first year I was climbing there with a good friend of mine from Italy and he had taken tortellini pasta up with us and I had packets of tuna and we just made a lovely meal before we went to summit.

“I’ve always taken a bottle of Coke with me and I remember three years ago going for the summit – I had a small bottle of Coke – stopping to take a drink of it and as soon as I opened the lid it just exploded and 90% of the liquid inside just flew out of it with the pressure.

“I was devastated.” Noel Hanna (Photo: noelhanna.com)

 ‘There is no wall’

Hanna recommends running your own race and ignoring mountain literature that tells you exactly where you will struggle. Undoubtedly having strong mental fortitude is crucial to a successful ascent.

 “I went into climbing from endurance sports, like 100 mile runs. Somebody who has never done a marathon before, the first thing they will say to you is ‘when will I hit the wall?’ It’s a myth, it’s somebody else’s wall.

“If you’ve read a book that says you’re not meant to struggle till 7,000 metres and you’re struggling at 6,000 metres, mentally that’s going to affect you.

“I’ve seen people who struggle on their first acclimatization rotation, but once they get that sorted they’re the strongest on summit push. “I always said that 70% of it is in the head.”

 Bring a lucky charm

Making  physical, technical and mental preparations is empirical, but having a lucky charm is also of importance, says Hanna.

“My wife gave me a lucky black cat on a keyring and it’s gone to every mountain with me since 2004.

“I’m not superstitious or anything, but every single mountain that I go on, it’s attached on my rucksack.

“When I’m leaving on an expedition I need to make sure that cat’s with me.”

What does Everest mean to Hanna?

For most who complete the summit, Everest will hold a special place in their heart. For Hanna it was just another mountain – until his German Shepherd Babu passed away last year.

 “Me and my wife have a German Shepherd pup who was ten and a half years old, he passed away 10 months ago. We said if anything ever happened to him we’d take his ashes to the summit of Everest.

“That’s what me and my wife did this year, we took his ashes with us and we sprinkled them a couple metres from the summit and had a wee tearful moment for him.

“When I think of Everest now, I think of my dog’s ashes. Everest is the most thoughtful mountain for me. We don’t have any children so he was the closest thing we had.”

Read more at: https://inews.co.uk/essentials/news/uk/girls-body-image-one-three-believe-not-pretty-enough/

Today is the anniversary of the Vasily Kernicky, Muscovite, climbers on Everest, Cho-Oyu, our 7thousanders peaks. The 7 Summits Club congratulates him with a birthday and wishes strong health, happiness, luck and new achievements! We hope to meet the 13th October at a gala evening in our office! Vasily is now returning with friends from the expedition to the sixth highest peak in the world Cho Oyu. This beautiful mountain is a great gift for the celebrant!

Sergey Larin, head of the expedition: So, on September 30th at 9 am 5 participants of the 7 Summits Club expedition were on the top of Mount Cho Oyu. "Turquoise Goddess" has taken the above-mentioned part of the team and almost let go. The composition of the group: Vasily Kernitsky, Dmitry Kuznetsov, Igor Smirnov, Zygmunt Berdychowski (Poland), Sergey Larin. With the support of four sherpas: Nima, Pasang, Doji, Mutuk ...

 On the same day we went down to 6400, and the next - in the ABC camp. Now organizational problems began at an early depart of the team and changing tickets dates.

 The second part of the team starts to climb 3 October ...

Sherpas Team

Today the team of the Seven Summits Club - five Members and four Sherpas - at 9 am Nepal time stood on the top of Cho Oyu. Some of us are still standing. Now we begin the descent. Team: Sergey Larin, Dmitry Kuznetsov, Dmitry Smirnov, Zygmunt Berdychowski and Vasily Kernitsky. I hope I did not forget any one. And four Sherpas. Congratulations are accepted only in the ABC camp. In our expedition team there are two more participants, but they work on a different route. Today, they do not climb. Sergey Larin.

25 th and 26 th of September - rest days in the ABC camp. We showered, had classes on oxygen equipment. It turned out that we have selected a strong company in preference.

September 27th. Out up to the C1 camp.

22.09. We went to the camp C1 (6400). In the morning there was a puja, a ceremony was held at ABC, we opened the camp and climbing program according the Buddhist tradition. The first day without snow.

23.09. Natalia Smirnova went to Lhasa, she has such a program. We are in C1. Weather forecast unstable and often changing. Therefore, we will not acclimate as expected on the theory, but on the basis of weather windows.

24.09. We went up to 250 meters from the C1 (6400m) and descended to ABC. The weather deteriorated again, this time coincided with the forecast.

18.09. We went from the base camp for acclimatization, we scored 500 meters.

19.09.We collected our camp and prepared for moving loads in the Middle Camp and ABC camp. When weighed to give a total weight - 2.5 tons. Participants left by foot, the goods had to leave later on a truck. But the truck will not allow by the police. Now we are sitting in the intermediate camp, Middle Camp at 5400 and forward to their belongings., who slowly drive up on  motorcycles. Everything else is good.

Sergey Larin, leader of the expedition. 

Diary of the expedition on Cho Oyu. 15.09 we arrived in Shigatse (3800), the second largest city in Tibet. We walked around the city and who wanted could buy  pillows. While there was not a single day without rain.

 16.09. In the morning we went to the monastery, the second largest in Tibet. There we worshiped the world's largest Buddha statue. Then we went to Tingri (4300).

 17.09. After breakfast we drove to the base camp. In Tingri Chinese began to build housing estates and road towards Cho Oyu. Therefore, after 1.5 hours we were in base camp (4900). On Cho Oyu - it is rather an intermediate camp, than the base, as we plan to spend only two nights here. All the rest of the time camp ABC (5700)  will be our base. Everything goes according to plan, the members feel good.

September 6th an expedition of the 7 Summits Club on the 6th highest mountain of the World Cho Oyu (8201m) begins. Leader - Sergey Larin, many times Everest summiter.

The legendary mountaineer, basejumper, skydiver and holder of numerous records - Valery Rozov is taking part in the expedition. He plans to establish another world record!

Members of the expedition:

- Valery Rozov

- Nick Lebanidze (Georgia)

- Zygmunt Berdychowsky (Poland)

- Dmitry Kuznetsov

- Igor Smirnov

- Natalia Smirnova

- Vasily Kernitsky

September 6th, Sergei Larin flies from Moscow to Kathmandu. And all participants will gather in the capital of Nepal, Sept. 11^th. Then - they will go to Lhasa and then to the base camp of Cho Oyu.

Climbing Mount Everest in the spring of 2016. The 7 Summits Club expedition. Filming of the RD Studio of  the Russian TV 1 Channel led by Valdis Pelsh. Yet the teaser. Total film will be released in autumn 2016.

 Public Speaking Ukrainian Summiter of Everest, expedition member of the 7 Summits Club, Tatiana Yalovchak visited Moscow. She paid tribute to the teachers in mountaineering Sergei Kovalev and Elena Kovaleva, who now live and work in the capital of Russia. Surprising  it took place almost in the form of a dialogue with the audience, which is not often. We can call it a success and a credit to both sides. The audience was curious, and Tanya spoke easily, but at the same time emotionally and honestly.

You are free to listen to excerpts of her speech

Subjectively, we note four points:

(1) Tatiana has been climbing for about 8 years. She went into the mountains as an amateur. It  is her climbing teacher Sergei Kovalev, who suggested the idea - to become the first Ukrainian Everest woman summiter. On his initiative and this meeting took place.  Many Thanks!

(2) From the beginning to the end of the expedition Tanya felt as a child.  It means full service, excellent living conditions and the best provision -  full opportunity to be focused only on their own physical condition. Quality of service 7 Summits Club praised.

(3) From the first to the last minute, Tanya had no doubt of success, never appeared  the idea that you can give up and retreat.

(4) At the urging of Alex Abramov, Tatiana decided not to make the race for the "Ukrainian championship" with another contender - Irina Galay. Tatiana went to the summit climb a day later to  avoid someone's haste. After all this haste would not only prevent the summit ascent, but also lead to more dire consequences. It's  some kind  of a moral victory of Tatiana Yalovchak.

(5) And there are no plans connected with the mountains. Rest, watch football at the European Championship, to get married and give birth...

Happiness to you Tanya! We will be still hoping to meet on a mountain trail.

May 20, 2016 Irene Kharazova raised the Armenian flag on the highest point of the world. Irene - the first Armenian, climbed Everest. In an exclusive interview, she talks about his emotions, about what attitude and preparation are needed to overcome such obstacles as it responds to her mountaineering interest  with the family and many other things.

When did you start one of the most extreme sports - rock climbing?

The desire to conquer the heights appeared at me exactly 5 years ago. I returned from Zanzibar, where she spent the holiday, and the pilot said, "And now, look to the left, it is the legendary Mount Kilimanjaro, the one who wants to afford something to prove conquer it." After arriving to Moscow, I first organized climbing. I liked it and I was involved in the project "7 Summits" - 7, the highest points on 7 continents that need to conquer. Everest – is the sixth....

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN

Tatiana Yalovchak climbed Mount Everest in the team of the 7 Summits Club. She reached the summit with one of the symbols of Ukraine – an embroidered towel.

"I am happy that I brought the rushnyk with me. Our symbol of strength, goodness, beauty and peace And a part of my soul with him. Hope for prosperity and peace in Ukraine"

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oleg Pimenov climbed Mount Everest as a member  of the first group of  the 7 Summits Club. He published a collection of photos on Facebook, that we remade in the report ...

…

We decided that the best window will be on May 20-21

15th May we come in midlle camp. Everest was clean

On the morning of the 16th Everest began to smoke.  Getting worse...)

16th of May. In the advanced base camp (ABC) there were classes on the basics of survival. The technical part of the oxygen equipment and work with it

In the palm there is your life. Regulator. Wear near your  heart!

May 17th the familiar path to the saddle of Mount Everest to 7000m. Ahead - a string of Chinese expedition. Ropes on top yet not fixed. All hopes for Chinese

North Col

On the morning of May 18ер the Chinese have moved to the top of ...

We go after (for the Chinese)

Centered under stones  there is our advanced base camp – yellow spots

5 and a half hours, it took  the way to the camp 7,700.  Without oxygen it would  be all 7-8. Someone put in a poor tent

Here I am at home. 7700m. Behind, our goal looms

May 19th morning Sherpas moved to put the last camp. We have further 5 hours of relaxation

I admire climbers  by the window

It blows, however. Abramov said that the weather was perfect. Although sometimes difficult to resist

Traces of the past

That last camp 8300. The summit meets with flags

Everyday life above the clouds. All a bit nervous

The start is scheduled for an hour in the morning on 20 May. We skip ahead only Chinese. They go out at 11 pm. Breakfast

Half an hour later we reached the crest. The first stage of 8564m passed in the night,  not noticed, green shoes covered with snow. IPhone had  made 2 photos of second  step and had cold.

View of the third step, a pyramid and Chinese

Stylish design

Go along the ridge. Abramov said that it is just a walk.

The oxygen plan was to climb with two cylinders, and  one for the descent. One cylinder at maximum flow gives life for 4 hours. Before the third step  we  are changing the first balloon

The third stage and slow Chinese

We have passed the third step, 8710m. In front of the pyramid. With Irena Kharazova

A snowy field in front of the pyramid. With Vladimir Kotlyar and Roman Reutov

I go on the field ...

Fixed or non-fixed ropes

My Sherpa Mingma, he was on Everest 3 times from both sides

On the Everest  better  to climb at night. Pyramid

Sometimes it blows. A bit....

With acrophobia  it will be hard on Everest. Pyramid, 70 meters from the top.

What's the first thing you need to do at the top? Smoke break (Sherpas)

So how it looks. 8830

Group photo. 8848m - with Irena Kharazova

In the background, a group of climbers is coming from Nepal. 8848m

Guides, video operator and my friend makes a proposal to his girlfriend. 8848m - Vladimir Kotlyar

Abramov think, in what direction to go down, Tibet or Nepal. Lyudmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov

Like the portrait. 8848m

No higher point is on the planet. - Vladimir Kotlyar

We rest under the roof - with Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko

Everest crest

Fixed rope on the crest

Changze, the northern peak of Everest.7680m

A short rest on the descent.   No sleep here - the greatest risk  not to wake up

Saddle or 4th camp on the horizon

Yet we have to descend from the saddle. To stay alive and healthy, you need to go down to the 4 day go up to 8848 down to 6410m. If the ascent took 6.5 hours, descent – 11! Without food and water - with Vladimir Kotlyar, Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko

At the bottom of the North Col. By tradition, the climbers on Everest left here poles - Ludmila Korobeshko

Well, 18 hours later I'm in advanced base camp

May 21th - it is  too early to relax to us . There was a run 23 km on the glacier to the base camp. Savings oxygen cylinder on top to be my sail -   with Vlad Moroz

  May 20^th , Igor reached the summit of Everest. This is the best way to complete the epic of ascents on the highest peaks of all continents.

 And great when there is your spouse next to you. By the way, we congratulate her. Not only to the achievement of her husband. Jamila Murtazina on May 18^th  climbed to the North Col, setting his personal altitude record. Congratulations - congratulations! Have new goals and new victories!

 Igor’s  photos from the expedition on Everest: