Alexander Abramov on the results of the season: Now there is a kind of fashion - to ascend to the edge of the Ojos del Salado crater and say that they have ascended the summit
The climbing season in Chile for Ojos del Salado 2023 has ended. This is the highest volcano in South America with a height of 6893 meters, which is part of the project "Seven Volcanoes", ascents of the 7 highest volcanoes of each continent. Thanks to this project, the mountain is popular and this year about 50 people from Russia rushed to it.
I want to sum up the results of the season of the 7 Summits Club. In total, 32 participants entrusted their fate to us, of which 30 people reached the top of Ojos del Salado. These are 4 groups with 6 guides. I want to clarify, they have reached the real top of the mountain. The highest point: 6893m.
Why I am writing about this: recently there has been a fashion not to reach the top of volcanic mountains and, having reached the lowest point of the crater, announce that the group has reached the summit. Like, geographers consider the entire edge of the crater to be the top. This is what has been practiced by many on Ojos del Salado in recent years. After reaching the edge of the crater, which is 150m below the summit, the guides tell the clients that they have climbed the summit. And the real summit is still the hardest and most dangerous 2 hours of work.
I want to state responsibly: mountain climbers have always called the highest point the summit of the mountain, and before reaching the highest point, you can not say that you have climbed to the summit. This is a deception of yourself and others. I myself climbed the summit of Ojos del Salado only in my 3rd expedition to this mountain. In total, I have more than 10 ascents to Ojos and each ascent is a very tough struggle with myself and nature. And most importantly, with the desire, having reached the edge of the crater and to turn down.
The mountain is deceptively simple due to the fact that the height of 5900 can be reached by car. A very treacherous mountain, on which two weeks of active acclimatization are required. The mistake of many teams and novice guides is underestimating the complexity of this mountain.
Every climber is free to interrupt his ascent at any height. You can even talk about "conquering" the mountain without reaching the highest point. But from the point of view of the implementation of the project "Seven Volcanoes", there can be no two opinions. Did not reach the highest point – "no credit"! So all those who have not climbed to the real summit of Ojos del Salado this year, we invite you to finish what you started next year. What do you think? Is it possible, without reaching the highest point of the mountain, to claim that he has ascended to the summit?
