Our Club's friends expeditions

In a very hard conditions our friends from Tyva Republic made the legendary Kora around Mont Kailash. Not many of piligrims were so lucky. Just some Tibetians. Among them the youngest Muchu Amo who is just two month old. May by it a world record?

Our friend Vladimir Doronin has climbed the Mount of Giluve in  Papua New Guinea. It is the highest volcano of the continent of Australia.

It was very rainly weather. Huge shower every days. Take care! -  it is for next climbers.

Real adventure:

In April of 2013, Fedor Konyukhov and a native of the Republic of Karelia, Victor Simonov will undertake a unique expedition of crossing the Artic expanse by dogsled. The uniqueness of the expedition is in the route itself. Fedor and Victor are planning to dogsled from the northern part of Karelia up to the North Pole and all the way down to the southern coast of Greenland. During the four month expedition they will have to overcome four thousand kilometers of ice, drift-ice, snow and permafrost. This is the longest route in the Arctic, which will become an extreme test of human possibilities for both explorers.

Back in the 70s, the legendary Japanese adventurer Naomi Uemura defied northern latitudes and paved the route for his dogsled from the coast of Canada to the North Pole, and then back via Greenland. However, he was not able to complete his undertaking. After that, explorers from different countries (Norway, Italy, USA, and Denmark) were trying to conquer the Arctic ice by dog sledding. None of the expeditions succeeded. Fedor Konyukhov and Victor Simonov plan to dog sled the Naomi’s route completely.

This expedition should enhance the credibility of Russia as the Arctic state power. Also, it will contribute to the development of dog sledding as a sport which has already gained popularity in the Republic of Karelia. One of the main objectives of the expedition, in the run-up to the Winter Olympics in Sochi, is to draw the attention of the Russian Olympic Committee and International Olympic Committee to this sport. The goal is to see that dog sled racing is included in the Winter Olympic Games.

The Republic of Karelia was intentionally chosen as the starting point for this expedition. Apart from being the “Russian gates to the Arctic”, the Republic of Karelia is actively developing mushing that is becoming one of the attractions in sport tourism in the region. Today Karelia is the only region in Russia, where the World Cup of dog-sled racing takes place, as well as the other major international competitions in this sport, both for the short and marathon distances. Thanks to its entertainment dog sled racing is gaining popularity and great interest among the athletes and spectators in Karelia, Russia, and its European neighbors. The expedition “Karelia - North Pole - South of Greenland” will only have dogs raised in the kennels of the Republic of Karelia and trained specifically for this expedition.

Fedor and Victor plan to take off in April of 2013 under the auspices of the Russian Geographical Society and the government of the Republic of Karelia. The expedition is supported by Artur Chilingarov, a special representative for the Artica and Antarctica to the President of the Russian Federation. Mr. Chilinagrov is the vice-president of the Russian Geographical Society.

The expedition is scheduled to finish in August of 2013.

February 9, 2013 One of the greatest expeditions of the 21st century has quietly started on the perrone of the Yaroslavskiy train station in Moscow. YEMELYA-team: all seven members of the next Marine Live-ice Autmobile Expedition-2013: Makovnev Afanasy, Elagin Vasily, Vankov Andrey, Obikhod Vladimir, Shkrabkin Alexey, Kozlov Nikolai, Isaev Sergey.

MLAE-2011. On March 4, 2011 Marine Live-ice Automobile Expedition is scheduled to leave Urengoy, Russia and, under the flag of the Russian Geographic Society, to traverse the Arctic and the North Pole reaching Resolute Bay, Canada by June 15th 2011. The expedition is organized by Russian Center For Arctic Exploration and carried out under the patronage of the Special Representative of the President of Russian Federation In International Cooperation In The Arctic and The Antarctic the First vice-president of the Russian Geographic Society A.N. Chilingradov. The expeditionary crew will be traveling in two custom built amphibious vehicles "Yemelya-3" and "Yemelya-4" following the route: Urengoy - Dudinka - Dickson - Ostrov Russkij, Kara Sea - Ostrov Sredniy, Severnaya Zemlya archipelago- The North Pole - Ward Hunt, Canada - Resolute Bay, Canada.

Previous expedition MLAE-2009. In 2009 Marine Live-ice Automobile Expedition successfully traversed 2033 kilometers of the Arctic waters and ice between Ostrov Sredniy island of Severnaya Zemlya archipelago and The North Pole. The route took 38 days between 20th of March and the 26th of April 2009. The expedition was carried out under the patronage of Russian President's Special Representative for The International Cooperation in The Arctic and The Antarctic A.N. Chilingradov. The support and safety monitoring of the expedition and the crew was provided by the aviation department of Federal Security Bureau. Expedition was headed by the decorated Master of Sport V.I. Yelagin. Expeditionary crew consisted of seven people. Vehicles used to traverse the ice and water en-route were two custom designed and built vehicles "Yemelya-1" and "Yemelya-2" with three axels and 6x6 wheel drive equipped with diesel engines, low pressure tires and cargo trailers.

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Saturday, February 23, 2013We are at Golomyanny Polar Station on Severnaya Zemlya Archipelago ten days already. It is normally -30 degrees Celsius. Daylight hours are not very long. The sun showed up above the horizon only two days ago. It means the end of the polar night. Here we are living in a warm house, eating homemade food, working in a warm garage and in a warm workshop, preparing our two cars "Yemelya-3" and "Yemelya-4" for the long trip across the ice. Panasonic has sponsored me with a new video camera Panasonic AG-AC90. I have to learn a lot about the way it works, as it has many adjustments for a high quality picture and professional sound Dolby 5,1ch.zoom. Now I am sewing a warm coat for the camera, because it has to work at -30 – -40 degrees Celsius. During the first try of filming here at such low temperature I could hardly press the On/Off Manfrotto external button through my gloves, so small the button is. I had to make a wooden addition to that button about 1 inch square, so I will be able to press it with big mittens on my hands. Now one car - green Yemelya-3 is ready, now it has a double insulation layer of foam inside. The red Yemelya-4 is in the garage now. The work is going for more than 12 hours every day. We also need to prepare 6 trailers; each of them will carry 400 liters of Diesel fuel and plastic drums with food and personal staff.
And now a short geography lesson about Severnaya Zemlya Archipelago. This year it is 100 years since it was discovered by s/v "Taymyr" and s/v "Vaigach". Its first name was The Land of Nicolas the Second (the last Russian tsar). It was the last geographical discovery on our planet. It is the biggest polar bear sanctuary in the Arctic. Posted by Afanassi Makovnev.

Wednesday, February 20, 2013Congratulations!!!
Happy birthday to MLAE-2013 expedition leader Vassily Yelagin!!! We wish you luck. We wish you to find the right way in the ice fields in the dark polar night and reach the cherished point. We root for you and your team and believe in the success of the expedition. Your Friends

Wednesday, February 20, 2013. Severnaya Zemlya, Sredny island.It does not happen often when you have three holidays in one day. The first one is The Rise of The Sun. We could watch its red glow every day, but today it must have shown us its upper edge above the South horizon at noon. But at the record temperature of -36°C it was cloudy and we did manage to see it. The second holiday is a jubelee - Vasily Elagin is 60 today! This is him who we could see the whole working day (more than 12 hours), in the garage and in the workshop, where we continued to work on green "Yemelya-4". In the evening gathered round the festive board we congratulated the hero of the day on his birthday, wished him in this final year of the decade to achieve all what he sought the latest ten years. After greeting toasts Vasily called his home and told us the news, which appeared to be the third holiday - the Canadian Embassy in Moscow granted visas for us to enter Canada, and this entry we are allowed to do at its northernmost village Resolute Bay.
Posted by Afanassi Makovnev.

Wednesday, February 13, 2013An early wake up at 5 o'clock allowed us to make a very long charter flight by twin engine Antonov-26 from Vorkuta to Norilsk and then to Sredniy Island of the Severnaya Zemlya Archipealgo. While the plane stood still on the runway of Norilsk airport (Alykell) Father Georgiy, the head of Taymyr eparchy, came on board to give us his blessings. Each of us was also greeted by our old friend and the most loyal expedition supporter Igor Uzdin, the head of NorNikel Transportation Department. Another very good friend of the expedition Victoria Koriukina came from Norilsk, but was not allowed to reach the plane by the airport security, that was a pity, as we brought a gift for her today's birthday. Then right in the plane our foreign passports were stamped and we filled in customs declaration. Russian border was officially crossed. Immediately after that the plane was airborn agin; and three hours later in the polar darkness lit only by the crescent moon, several stars and runway lights we landed on 3000 meter long airstrip of Sredniy Island. Miracles do happen sometimes, and it was one of that sort.
Posted by Afanassi Makovnev.

March 1. Olga Rumyantseva reached the summit Uhuru on Kilimanjaro,Africa's highest volcano. She climbed the route Umbve. It was not easy, because the plan was allocated to climb at 5 days. This is the second ascent on the highest volcanoes in the project “7 continents in one year alone” initiated by the Kaspersky Lab. Mount Sidley was the first, it is the tallest volcano in Antarctica. Next –Mt.Giluveon theislandofPapua-New Guinea,Australia's highest volcano.

More details:

http://7summits-club.com/newssections/all_1/newssection_151_1/item_3766/

Valentin Bozhukov is 80 years old. And he wants to continue his mountaineering career and fulfill his cherished dream: to climb Mount Everest. Valentin has high physical condition, strong will, a great experience and he is able to reach the summit of Everest. Sponsors have already collected an initial payment, but the money is still missing. Please help the veteran.

Valentin Bozhukov started climbing a 50-s. He holds a record for the number of gold medals in the championships of the USSR. He climbed many times all five Soviet Union summits above 7000 meters. Valentin is an aeronautical engineer who has worked all his life in the design office. In the 80-s years Bozhukov became one of the first in Russia, who have mastered the paraglider. In recent years, he was worked on upgrading the oxygen equipment, repeatedly visited Nepal and Everest Base Camps.

Videopresentation:

Support group: "Andrey Krylov" and Valery Bagov

E-mail: bagovval@mail.ru

E-mail: vamibo@hotmail.ru Valentin Bozhukov

rrgrv@yandex.ru - Olesya Vodinskaya, manager

On Facebook :

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Expedition-Everest-Fly/291551754229291

The famous Russian high-altitude climber Gleb Sokolov visited the Moscow office of NPF BASK company, his lead sponsor. He spoke to the press about their plans. This year Gleb will be under Everest with the expedition of 7 Summits Club. He plans to made a new route via the middle of Kanchung face in alpine style.

Gleb Sokolov was a member of the Russian team on the north face of Everest, on the west face of K2, on the first ascent of Lhotse Middle. Plus he climbed also Makalu, Lhotse Shar, Lhotse Main, Cho Oyu and Manaslu. He became famous in Russia after high speed record climbs of Peak Communisma and Pobeda in late 80th. He is an author of two new routes on the northernmost seventhousander Peak Pobeda, made solo traverse of it. At least 40 times climbed peaks above 7000 meters. In short, Sokolov is the leading high-altitude climber of Russia. Gleb lives in Novosibirsk, this year he will celebrate 60 years anniversary, with four children, and at least one grandchildren.

"Last year for me was sad and unfortunate. Very people close to me left us: my friends, first Vitaly Gorelik February 6 on K2, then Ilyas Tukhvatullin and Vanya Lobanov October 7 at Annapurna. All my plans were broken….

Trek to Annapurna, with Ilyas

In April-June this year, I and Alexander Kirikov plan a new route on Everest on the east face and in the alpine style + without oxygen (photo 1). We will prepare for climbing with the great company of climbers from the 7 Summits Club. We will go up to the Changtse Peak (7550m), hike on the "northern classics route."

After acclimatization we get to the glacier Kanchung, to go climb the main goal. The descent we plan to the north side.
Summer - nothing serious. May be – Aktru mountaineering camp. For support of acclimatization, in July and August, I plan to climb Lenin Peak.

In September-November, we organize an expedition to Shisha Pangma. With Alexander Kirikov, and maybe with someone else, we want to go via a new route on the two peak of Shisha Pangma starting from a traverse of Molamenking peak (7661m) (photo 2). Remaining members of the expedition will follow the classical way, and will also try to climb the two peaks (8008m and 8027m).

Of course, plans are plans, and what you get is what you get. The mood is great, and then - let's see ... It better 10 times turn back, then ....

PRNewswire

Kaspersky Lab sponsors new project to conquer 7 volcanoes on 7 continents.

Kaspersky Lab, a leading developer of secure content and threat management solutions, announces the start of an adventurous new project: the Kaspersky 7 Volcanoes Expedition. Renowned mountaineer Olga Rumyantseva will become the first woman to solo-ascend the Volcanic Seven Summits, the seven highest volcanoes across the continents, within one year.

Supported by Kaspersky Lab, Olga will solo-climb Mt. Sidley (Antarctica), Kilimanjaro (Tanzania), Mt. Giluwe (Papua New Guinea), Damavand (Iran), Elbrus (Russia), Pico de Orizaba (Mexico) and Ojos del Salado (Chile/Argentina). Summiting these volcanoes is considered one of the toughest mountaineering challenges in the world, and the fact that Olga will be the first in history to ascend them alone in less than 12 months merely adds to the challenge.

Although Olga is going to set a record, the expedition is more about testing the spirit and personal achievement. Olga commented: "This has been my dream for a long time. I'm an adventurer; I like to explore and do things that have never been done before. The difficulty of this challenge makes it even more interesting for me! I'm so grateful Kaspersky Lab has helped me turn this plan into reality, and given me the chance to fulfill my dream."

Kaspersky Lab CEO and co-founder Eugene Kaspersky said: "In our company, the notion of personal achievement, of the will to win is one of the most important. We believe one person can do a lot if he or she is truly committed to the goal and to the dream. People like Olga are real winners. She is capable of following her dream and moving forward no matter what obstacles are in her way. That's what unites us with Olga and I believe that her achievements will inspire our whole team around the world! We'll be following her progress closely throughout 2013."

The Kaspersky 7 Volcanoes Expedition started on 11 January 2013 with the ascent of the highest volcano in Antarctica: Mount Sidley with a summit elevation of 4,181-4,285 meters (13,717-14,058 ft.). It is a massive, mainly snow-covered shield volcano which is the highest and most imposing of the five volcanic mountains that comprise the Executive Committee Range of Marie Byrd Land .

The Kaspersky 7 Volcanoes Expedition is a new step for the brand in collaborating with the world's highly recognised explorers. At the beginning of 2012, with the support of Kaspersky Lab, British explorer Felicity Aston became the first woman in history to cross Antarctica alone, having set a new world record. Another expedition dating back to November 2009 saw the company sponsor the Kaspersky Commonwealth Antarctic Expedition. This project brought together women from Brunei, Cyprus, Ghana, India, Jamaica, New Zealand, Singapore and the United Kingdom who skied more than 900 km from the coast of Antarctica to the South Pole to mark the 60th anniversary of the Commonwealth.

About Olga Rumyantseva

Olga Rumyantseva was born in the city of Tver, Russia. From an early age she had a keen interest in mountain trekking and mountaineering. What started out as a hobby scaling peaks in the Caucasus, the Khibiny Mountains and mountains in Central Asia later turned into a lifestyle. She received a first grade in mountaineering and became director of the Moscow State University alpinism club. In 2008 Olga started her dream job when she became a mountaineering guide. Throughout her climbing career she has ascended numerous mountains on every continent.

Kaspersky Lab Newsroom

Kaspersky Lab has launched a new online newsroom, Kaspersky Lab Newsroom Europe (http://newsroom.kaspersky.eu/en), for journalists throughout Europe. The newsroom is specifically designed to serve many of the media's most common requests, making it easier for journalists to find product and corporate information, facts and figures, editorial copy, images, videos and audio files, as well as details about the appropriate PR contacts.

About Kaspersky Lab

Kaspersky Lab is the world's largest privately held vendor of endpoint protection solutions. The company is ranked among the world's top four vendors of security solutions for endpoint users*. Throughout its 15-year history Kaspersky Lab has remained an innovator in IT security and provides effective digital security solutions for consumers, SMBs and Enterprises. The company currently operates in almost 200 countries across the globe, providing protection for over 300 million users worldwide. Learn more at http://www.kaspersky.co.uk. For the latest on antivirus, anti-spyware, anti-spam and other IT security issues and trends, visit: http://www.securelist.com/.

*The company was rated fourth in the IDC rating Worldwide Endpoint Security Revenue by Vendor, 2010. The rating was published in the IDC report Worldwide IT Security Products 2011-2015 Forecast and 2010 Vendor Shares - December 2011. The report ranked software vendors according to earnings from sales of endpoint security solutions in 2010.

© 2013 Kaspersky Lab. The information contained herein is subject to change without notice. The only warranties for Kaspersky Lab products and services are set forth in the express warranty statements accompanying such products and services. Nothing herein should be construed as constituting an additional warranty. Kaspersky Lab shall not be liable for technical or editorial errors or omissions contained herein.

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PR Newswire (http://s.tt/1yjiK)

The North Caucasian Mountain Club - is one of the organizations created by the North Caucasus Development Corporation. Its staff has organized the past autumn research and promotional jeep tours along so-called Alanian way. Alanian way - is, roughly speaking, a system of roads in a depression between the Lateral and Rocky ridges of the Caucasus Mountains. At different times, this communication system had known periods of revival and oblivion. If the project of system of mountain resorts in theNorth Caucasuswill become a reality, there must be laid normal roads. In the meantime, you can enjoy the pleasures of jeep adventure tourism. Route, by and large, can be maid from somewhere Gunib (Dagestan) to Adler (Black Sea), but now it is about standardizing of the way from Elbrus to Kazbek (central part). This year, journalists and representatives of tourism companies were invited in the tour.

For a short report on the trip from Alexei Orlov, please visit a site of Action Studio «WOOZILY» (un Russian)

During this trip some outstanding images of the Caucasus were made. Photos here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/woozily/

Studio «WOOZILY» promises for the New Year full version of a film aboutAlanian Way. While you can watch a trailer:

More about development of theNorth Caucasus. Construction of a multipurpose center near theairportofMineralny Vody. You could see the Director General of the North Caucasus Development Corporation Anton Pak.

Anton Pak’s Interview to TV ChannelRussia24

Site of the North Caucasus Development Corporation

http://krskfo.ru/

Missionand objectives

The North Caucasus Development Corporation (NCDC) was established in 2010 to develop the investment environment in the North Caucasus Federal District (NCFD) by attracting investors and participating in investment projects in the district.

Our mission is to create a successful investment business to stimulate the economic development of theNorth Caucasusregion.

Our top priorities are to support the implementation of the government development program for the NCFD, raise investment for the district and create new jobs.

The economic potential of the district, which is based on its geographic location, its favorable climate and its natural and human resources – along with the government’s long-term strategic regional interests – create a platform for social and economic development as well as growing investment opportunities.

The Corporation has the following objectives for 2011-2015:

- support at least 120 investment projects in the NCFD

- build its own investment portfolio consisting of 30-40 projects

- raise at least RUB70bn in private investment (both debt and equity), which will create up to 35,000 new jobs

To achieve these objectives we are developing our investment and advisory business.

The Corporation is a brand-new structure for theNorth Caucasusdistrict that combines the interests of domestic and international investors on the one hand, and government authorities on the other hand, in order to guarantee efficient project implementation and increase return on investments in the district.

Farewell ceremony with Ilyas Tukhvatullin and Ivan Lobanov, was held on November 15 in Tashkent. They were killed in an avalanche while climbing to the peak of Annapurna October 7, 2012. In the picture we see that same avalanche. The photo was taken by Alexander Bykov from Camp 2, where they were climbing. He came early and stayed alive.

One of the last photos of Ilyas Tukhvatullin and Ivan Lobanov, a few minutes before the crash. Ilyas is downstairs, he stopped to communicate by radio. A short time later, all this space will be filled with rubble of ice.

Unique photo by Gleb Sokolov, clearly visible location of the break area of snow and ice avalanche, which gives an idea of its real titanic scale.

http://www.racek-club.climberca.com/

On December 6th the team consists of: Pavel Shabalin (Kirov city), Alexander Abramov (Moscow), Ilias Tukhvatulin (Tashkent) and two supporters flight in the Laylak valley up to the most difficult wall of CIS Aksu (height overall is 1700 m, average gradient 76 grades). The ascent began on December 8th. After 4 days work, on December 11 the team stared to climb the route via the "cold corner" in capsulate style using the portaledge.

Climbed 45 pitches by the wall on the night 21st to 22nd December, they were on the top. After the cold night on the top, on December 23rd they descanted.

During the ascent the weather was unstable, there were snowfalls once in 3 days. There were no frostbite and hurts though the night temperature reached -20 grade and in the ridge climbers were met by hurricane wind.

Alex and Iljas on the summit

 A film about this expedition

Denis Urubko about Iljas Tukhvatullin

The information from http://www.russianclimb.com/russian/index.html :
8 October, 2012 Annapurna. The avalanche...Iljas Tukhvatullin group was climbing from C1 to C2 yesterday, when the huge avalanche headed down... It happened on 3 p.m. Iljas and Ivan Lobanov have been burried, only one climber was not caught. He tried to find his friends, but it was impossible... He ascended the rest 150 m to C2 - there was the safety place, the air wave only broke the tent... Then he descended to C1 and radioed to BC. Today Gleb Sokolov and his group are asceding from BC to the tragedy place to try to find somebody... It was not the serac crash, the whole icy slope fell down, perhaps as a result of earthquake...

«The engineer-physicist by a trade, ILjas has shown at once magnificent organizational skills. On his idea we have collected old canisters and bamboo poles from which have built graceful - in our understanding - a table and benches round it after district. Looked like the African bungalow. Masts for aerials and flags too were established under the guidance of the representative of sovereign republic Uzbekistan. Sometimes between times it taught us how to develop protection of space objects against defeat by laser beams.

- The most important deal was that IT worked Before an impulse will destroy a cover, but Not earlier, than it will undergo to influence. Do you suppose a problem? And we took this atomic metal inside the inert environment… the Great idea! …

Our engineer has the ten operating copyright certificates. And all has begun with the broken aerial in which Iljas intended to freeze water, to straighten and establish. Also began to tell to us about water dispersion in vacuum ».
It is a small part from my memoirs about Iljas Tukhvatullin. If to take an overall picture of THAT winter expedition on К2 with Poles for ever there will be its smile. He was practical and romantic simultaneously. Always thought of friends, and joked - not painfully, but sharply. It was the relation… so each of us knew that we are in sphere of his attention which could help during the necessary moment. When we established the Second Camp, and moved upwards incredible heavy backpacks, Iljas took the heaviest burden.

Now I look at northern slope of Annapurna with melancholy. To tell the truth, the mountain kind cuts heart, though… but why the mountain?!? Two months ago we talked with Dmitri Sinev about Annapurna. I did not know details of planned expedition. But has told eberything that remembered. And especially rested on thought as has had luck Simone Moro and me on this route. As it was terrible to run on avalanche paths under a greedy sight seracs from above.

And here - I sit, the computer keyboard is thrown, the screen has gone out… I recollect, how flied in an avalanche on slope Gasherbrum. What was I given by that failure? What for has survived? I think, the destiny had the full right to bury me there. But… the luck happened. Tukhvatullin with Lobanov have appeared are not so successful.

I am on the way to C2 on Annapurna (2004)
I do not wish to reproach, cut. But it would be desirable to avoid repetition of such failures further. Why the camp on slope Манаслу has been put in a place of blow of an avalanche? Why groups go on a mouth of Khan Tengri to the most dangerous time? Why on Annapurna’s slope the team has appeared after a mid-day? Why Simone, Cory and me crossed the bottom of Gasherbrum-5 during a snowfall? ask me about last situation as required at once…

The strange feeling arises on revolution of affairs from simple to the difficult. The life flies, as if a wind with aroma of a grass. The world is similar spring кружению flower petals in sun beams, the future is perceived… well, simply perceived! Future. Beauty and ease which boil in blood.
But… suddenly the bus stops, and is found out, that it has arrived into Autumn, and present ask everybody to leave on street. Finish! The route is ended, and an one way ticket. Because such are life realities. And you leave under a rain, go by pools, not representing than to be engaged where to submit a head. In the autumn we have lost friends. Year has stood out - my God! don’t let same other! But contrary to all I know, that will be further. Also I do not wish to turn off from a way on which am happy.

And knowing, that is necessary to me, I will extend from a pack one more card… and will stake everything, that is. Because the victory price costs risk. Because happiness which gives me mountaineering - a touch to cleanliness of the nature, dialogue with strong good people, purpose achievement by own forces, a step sharpness «for a side» and ecstasy freedom. As possible to say - game costs all wax candles.

- Denis, and you want, that your children were engaged in mountaineering? - People often ask at a meeting. - that went on difficult ascensions to «a death zone»?

- Don’t think about! - I avoid. – Not of course!

"Caro DENIS, condivido e partecipo al tuo grande dolore per i tuoi e nostri Amici morti
in monte Annapurna. Un forte abbraccio,
Paolo Valoti

"Le montagne hanno il potere di attirarci nel loro mondo è lì, per sempre, si trovano i nostri amici la cui anima grande aspirava alle alte cime. Non dimenticate gli alpinisti che non hanno fatto ritorno." (Anatolij Bukreev??)

I am nervous a lot for other people. For everybody who goes to mountains by dangerous difficult routes. Please, do not think, that I urge to be engaged in mountaineering in that kind which has chosen for itself. And in that kind which has chosen for itself Iljas Tukhvatullin. But oh, damn! When I hear, that during Civil war in Syria were lost twenty thousand persons, to me it becomes terrible for remained on plains. I am so nervous! It is much worse, than to be lost in mountains where you go at own choice. And it is very bad to read reports about victims on roads to Russia and Kazakhstan on thoughtlessness of the counter drunk driver. These game rules under the name "life" are imposed from outstanding community.

So the thought on death on slope of Annapurna or Gasherbrum restrains with the validity. THERE game rules under the name "life" are chosen by me.

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Another avalanche in Nepal kills one of the foremost CIS mountaineers

Posted by Lindsay Griffin on 15/10/2012

North Face of Annapurna. Light blue line shows the Dutch Rib (and camps) and link up with the Original French Route (red line with Camp 2 marked). Dotted dark blue line is the proposed direct.
The Uzbek mountaineer, Iljas Tukhvatullin, who famously climbed new routes on both Everest and K2, has died in an avalanche on the north face of Annapurna.

This incident sadly comes close on the heels of the Manaslu avalanche that killed, amongst others, notable French guides and accomplished mountaineers Ludo Challeat and Remy Lecluse.

There were only two expeditions attempting the north side of Annapurna this autumn. Tukhvatullin was leading a group of largely unknown climbers from Uzbekistan on the Normal 1950 French Route, while the accomplished Russian Gleb Sokolov, with a stronger team, hoped to share the same route as far as Camp 3 and then attempt a new direct line to the summit.

After a period of heavy snowfall, Sokolov and members of his Russian team managed to establish Camp 2 at around 6,400m on the 5th October. All climbers then rested at base camp before trying to push the route out to Camp 3.

In the afternoon of the 7th Tukhvatullin (54) and team-mate Ivan Lobanov (51) were moving between Camps 1 (around 5,600m) and 2, when they were hit by an enormous avalanche.

This side of Annapurna is notoriously dangerous, with much of the French route threatened by large seracs that have fallen on numerous occasions in the past, setting off avalanches, often with tragic consequences.

However, a third climber, who appears to have been around 150m below Camp 2 when the avalanche struck and was fortunate not to be caught, reported there was no serac fall; simply the slide of a vast section of slope.

Later, other members of the expedition searched the area but reported the depth of debris was huge. Both teams have now abandoned the mountain.

Tukhvatullin, from Tashkent, had notched up many impressive ascents, his name linked strongly with the ace Russian alpinist Pavel Shabalin.

Late in 1998, with Alexander Abramov and Shabalin, Tukhvatullin made the prestigious first winter ascent of the ca 1,500m north face of Ak-su (5,217m) in the Karavshin, one of the most famous rock and ice walls in the former Soviet Union. The three climbed the central line of Cold Corner (6A in summer).

This was Tukhvatullin's fifth ascent of the face at the time, though he would later add the demanding Nose Direct (5.9 and A5), again with Shabalin, in a 16-day ascent.

The following year he made an attempt on the true north face of Jannu, reaching 6,700m on this spectacular wall eventually climbed by Russians in 2004.

The spring of 2004 would find him in Tibet with a large Russian team. Their goal was a direct route up the north face of Everest.

The result was the first independent route put up on the mountain since 1983 and the first time the summit was reached in June.

From a final camp at 8,300m Shabalin, with Andrey Mariev and Tukhvatullin, tried to force the final vertical rock band at ca 8,600m. However, after two days work they decided to bypass it on the left, and were the first of the primarily-Russian team to reach the summit. A second summit party included Sokolov.

In the summer of 2005 Shabalin and Tukhvatullin made a ground-breaking ascent of the north face of Khan Tengri (6,995m). Their acclaimed climb of a direct line up this huge wall, linking three existing routes, was the first time the face had been climbed in alpine-style and the first by a two-man party.

They spent nine nights of the nearly 3,000m-high face, and a further one and a half days were needed for the descent, Shabalin sustaining frostbite. They carried only a single, one-kilogram sleeping bag that they both shared.

In 2007 Tukhvatullin climbed the hardest route on the world's second highest peak. With Shabalin, he made up one of the later parties to complete the first ascent of the west face of K2, a particularly notable effort as the pair had spent three nights at or above 8,150m before doing so.

By 2007 many climbers were rightly criticising the traditional Russian outmoded siege-style tactics, which although achieving staggering success on coveted objectives, did leave true alpine-style ascents of these routes more or less impossible for future generations.

However, on K2 the Russians did scorn the use of supplementary oxygen, and few would question the high levels of technical difficulty of the ascent.

Last winter Tukhvatullin returned to K2 in an attempt to make the first winter ascent. The expedition was eventually abandoned after he had reached ca 7,200m on the south-southeast ridge (aka Cesen or Basque route).

Redbull.com. by Jack Frost, Jun 5, 2012

Russian climber and BASE jumper Valery Rozov recently added another highlight to his incredible career in extreme sports by performing a wingsuit jump from the top of Shivling, a 6543m mountain in the Indian part of theHimalayas.

Valery Rozov is a superstar in the world of BASE jumping and wing suit flying, an extreme sport which involves jumping from objects such as bridges, buildings and towers. The 47-year-old Russian’s breathtaking feats, such as flying into an active volcano in Kamtschatka (2009) and jumping fromUlvetannaPeakin the Antarctic (2010), have made him famous the world over.

Thanks to his exceptional climbing skills, Valery recently took things to the next level by completing one of the most challenging BASE jumps ever performed.

After a 30-day expedition, including a six-day ascent, the ‘BASE climber’, as he calls himself, and climbing partners Alexander Ruchkin and Victor Volodin stood on the summit of Shivling in the Indian part of the Himalayas at precisely 13:30 on 25 May. After stopping to catch his breath, Valery found a perfect take-off spot at 6420mt. Just 90 seconds later, having hit speeds of 200km/h as he sped through the air, the Russian landed 2200m further down on the glacier.

The other expedition members took three whole days (!) to complete the descent.

“This was my first project in theHimalayas,” commented the two-time skydiving world champion after his record-breaking flight. “We had a few difficulties along the way, so I am really pleased that we were able to complete the jump successfully.”

By reaching the summit, Rozov, Ruckhin and Volodin also became the first ever Russians to successfully climb Shivling (literally the “phallus of Lord Shiva”, Shiva being the Hindu deity of destruction and transformation), a mountain renowned for its difficult and dangerous passages. Indeed, it was not until 1974 that the peak, which is often referred to as the ‘Matterhorn of the Himalayas’ due to its shape and is looming over the largest source of the Ganges River at Gaumukh, was conquered for the first time.

The group of climbers from Donetsk (Ukraine) climbed on March 2 the highest peak in South America, Aconcagua. A team led by the president of the Donetsk Regional Federation of Mountaineering, Sergei Kovalev has fulfilled all the objectives of the expedition. Near the highest point, they held a symbolic football match on honor of the future of the European Championships, which will be held Ukraine and Poland, with several matches in Donetsk. According to another tradition, Donetsk climbers left at the top a capsule with coal that obtained in the mines of their native land.

Ascent of Aconcagua was a preparatory stage for the conquest of the planet's highest point - Mount Everest, to be held in April-May this year.

As he stated earlier, Sergei Kovalev, the ascent of Mount Everest will be devoted to the European Football Championship-2012. At the highest point of the World Ukrainian climbers are going to make a symbolic blow to the soccer ball in support of the Ukrainian national team at Euro 2012 championship.

7 Summits Club hopes that the Ukrainian team will be our good neighbor for our expedition in the base camp of Everest.

February 22 a group of climbers of the project "Ingushetia on the tops" reached the summit of Aconcagua. We look forward to further cooperation with them to fullfil the next aim of the project -climb Mount Everest.

Summiters of Aconcagua: coach Sergey Bogomolov, guide Vladimir Korenkov, climbers Visa Yusupov, Aznor Hadzhiev, Moussa Hadziev, Leila Albogachieva, Magomed Aushev.

The team at the office of 7 Summits Club before flying to South America

The head of Ingushetia Yunus-Bek Yevkurov congratulated the team of climbers on the phone.

Yevkurov thanked the climbers for the fact that the conquest of the top has been dated to 23 February: "You have honored the memory of our ancestors who innocently killed during the deportation of those who defended with honor and protect your homeland."

The head of the region in a telephone conversation, wished success to the climbers, and noted that the country is waiting for the main ascent to the summit of Mount Everest, dedicated to the 20th anniversary of the Republic of Ingushetia.

We remind the team of climbers going to hoist the flag of Ingushetia in the world's highest peak Mount Everest to the Day of the Republic of June 4, 2012. Ascent of Aconcagua - the second phase of the project, codenamed " Ingushetia on the tops" January, 25 this year, climbers conquered the first summit on the way to Everest - Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 meters above sea level, Tanzania).

This year is an anniversary year for the country’s mountaineering: it’s been 30 years since the successful ascent of Mt. Everest by the USSR team (May 1982), and it’s been 20 years since the first Russian expedition to the top of Mt. Everest (May 1992). Fedor Konyukhov was a member of the latter expedition that consisted of four Russian mountain climbers. Paired with Eugeny Vinogradsky (Yekaterinburg), he ascended to the top of the world on May 14th at 13:15 Katmandu time.

Twenty years later, Fedor is planning to repeat the ascent of Mt. Everest, but this time, climbing the North Side, where the climb leaves from Tibet. As a partner for this expedition, Fedor Konyukhov has chosen “7 Summits Club”, the International Alpine Club that specializes in arrangements of all the necessary steps for the ascent of the eight-thousanders. (http://www.7vershin.ru/)

Fedor Konyukhov: “I turned 60 last December. It’s a good point in life to stop and reflect on all that has been accomplished in life including reaching the North Pole, Mt. Everest, and sailing around the Cape Horn. It’s been 20 years since my last expedition to the top of Mt. Everest with the “AVTOVAZ” team. I would like to try the ascent one more time and, God willing, to place a small Orthodox cross on top of the summit. (Author’s note: Fedor Konyukhov was ordained as a priest of the Russian Orthodox Church in December of 2010).

Alexandr Abramov is a professional mountaineer and President of the “7 Summits Club”. In the 1990s, he and I were working simultaneously on our goals of achieving The Seven Summits program, which consists of climbing the highest mountains on each of the seven continents. There are many organizations that specialize in this kind of mountaineering, but I would like to work with this Russian company, given the fact that “7 Summits Club” is one of the leaders in this area of expertise. In addition, there will be a large group of us, including a few of my friends, who will stay at the base camp. I want them to see the beauty of the Himalayas and Mt. Everest and to experience the spirituality of that place.”

Alexander Abramov: “Nowadays the process of putting together an expedition to summit Mt. Everest is different than back in 1992. After all, it’s been 20 years, but Mt. Everest remains Mt. Everest and no one can guarantee a successful ascent of the 8850 meters. We will have one guide per five climbers. Each climber is accompanied by a Sherpa. We provide six oxygen tanks of system “Poisk” per person. Our medical person works with us until the North Side. There are four fully established base camps at the 5100m, 5800m, 6400m, and 7000m as well as 2 fully equipped high-altitude camps at the 7800m and 8300m. The expedition will take place between April 10 and June 10, 2012. I am very pleased that Fedor Konyukhov will be a member of our team this year. I’ve known Fedor for 20 years, and I will be happy to help him realize his dream.”

January 10 at 7:45 am Karinn Mezova (young woman, pride of Kabardino-Balkaria republic in the North Caucasus) has climbed the tallest peak of Africa. Congratulations! In May 2011, Karina climbed Everest in the group of the 7 Summits Club. Meanwhile, a new Everest Expedition formed in other North Caucasian republics - Ingushetia. President Yunus-Bek Yevkurov personally spoke at a press conference. He arranged to finance the expedition from special funds. Four Ingush climbers are preparing to participate: Musa Hadziev, Visankirey Yusupov, Leila Albogachieva (woman) and Magomed Aushev. Experienced Himalaya climbers Sergey Bogomolov and Vladimir Korenkov invited to participate as leaders. Yevkurov also like to see in expedition Abdul-Halim Olmezov from Balkaria, who twice climbed to the summit of Everest.

Next week, the climbers will go to Tanzania to conquer the highest peak in Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m). Then the group will travel to South America to Argentina, to climb Mt. Aconcagua (6,960 m). In addition, Yevkurov ordered to organize a mountaineering school in Ingushetia for young people. As you know, it was recently decided to build a great country ski resort in Ingushetia.

Sergey Kovalev is the leader of climbers from Donetsk (Ukraine). In the big interview he declared the nearest plans. He intends to continue a program «Coal of Donbass at the highest summits of the world». Last year Sergey has finished the program of 7 Summits. In this autumn, he was a leader of expedition on Pumori and Ama-Dablam. Now Kovalev dreams to carry out a new expedition on Everest in the spring of 2012. The idea consists in the following: the representatives of four cities of Ukraine in whom European championship matches on football will take place, have together climb the tallest peak of the world. They should make the first kick on a ball at the top of Mount Everest. Cities: Kiev, Kharkov, Donetsk and Lvov. Now the main business is to get an interest of sponsors, and qualified climbers are in Ukraine.

On December, 9th the main part of winter expedition on К2 has taken off for Pakistan. Follow news on a the site k2-winterclimb.ru

Dec, 5 The team's press conference held in Moscow World Trade Centre. The expedition members, Victor Pleskachevsky (the Chairman of the Organizing Committee), Andrey Volkov (the President of the Russian Mountaineering Federation) and representatives of sponsors answered to journalists questions. Expedition Leader Viktor Kozlov and climbers: Evgeny Vinogradsky, Alexey Bolotov, Valery Shamalo, Vitaly Gorelik, Vladimir Belous said about expedition detailes.

Unfortunately, not all of the team were able to be at the conference - climbers were shipping at the Customs Office at the airport during that time. Guests of press conference congratulated with birthday 73-years expedition' senior coach - Nickolay Cherny. Questions asked to participants dealt with the various details of the project: the conditions in base camp, the weather conditions on the mountain, the line of the future route, the food, gear, how to reach the base camp, about the winter ascents, the complexity of the expedition organization as a whole. As the team as the sponsors showed a high faith in the success of the expedition. Video conference led by crew of NTV PLUS.

On December, 7th leaders of the Organizing Committee of Sochi-2014 has given a reception for members of the Russian winter expedition on К2. About hundred employs of the Committee of Sochi-2014 were present at a meeting. The president of Organizing Committee Dmitry Chernyshenko has handed over to the command of climbers an official flag of the Winter Olympic Games Sochi-2014. The team hopes to hoist the colors the Olympic Games on top К2.

Solemn moleben (prayer service) about members of winter expedition on К2 was held in Moscow in the Orthodox Temple of All Sacred on Kulishki. The command takes with itself an icon of Kazan Divine Mother which always was together with them in each expedition, since 2001

The Russian National Climbing Team is ready for their K2 winter ascent. The Russian alpinists are striving to become the world’s first men to complete a winter ascent of K2, the planet’s most challenging and northernmost peak beyond 8,000 metres.

The Russian National Team of climbers will accomplish their endeavour between December 2011 and March 2012 in Pakistan. The alpinists are scheduled to fly out of Moscow to Islamabad on 9th December 2011.

Their kick-off press conference is to take place at 12, Krasnopresnenskaya Naberezhnaya, 2nd Floor, Entrance 4, on 5th December 2011.

The ultimate success the climbers are seeking to achieve is of importance not only to them. The Russian National Team’s ascent is essential to the profile of Russian sports and the country at large. The Russian climbers are looking to hoist on top of K2 this winter the national colours of Russia and the official colours of Sochi-2014 Winter Olympics.

http://k2-winterclimb.ru/eng/

Sportsmen:

Alexey Bolotov Yekaterinburg

Vladimir Belous, Irkutsk

Eugene Vinogradsky Yekaterinburg

Nicholas Totmyanin St. Petersburg

Valery Shamalo St. Petersburg

Vitaly Gorelik Novosibirsk

Ilyas Tukhvatullin Podolsk

Andrew Mariev Togliatti

Vadim Popovich Nizhny Tagil

Leaders:

Viktor Kozlov, Moscow leader of the expedition

Nikolay Cherny Moscow head coach of the expedition

Victor Pleskachevsky St. Petersburg Organizing Committee Chairman of the expedition

Subsidiary of:

Sergei Bychkovsky Ekaterinburg expedition doctor

Igor Borisenko Moscow expedition cameraman

Vladimir Moscow Merchants Expedition Photographer

Yuri Dimchuk Moscow correspondent of TV

Sergei Gaidukov Moscow Expedition Photographer

The famous Russian traveler Fyodor Konyukhov was today a guest of the 7 Summits Club. He came to say goodbye before a long expedition to Ethiopia. In particular, Fedor and his team is going to climb all the highest points of this country. Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko discussed with him a program of trekking to the foothills of Mount Everest in April and May 2012. Fedor wants to organize a group with participation of Orthodox priests.

Fyodor Konyukhov, who was the first Russian climbed Seven Summits and reached two Poles. They have discussed various travel ideas, tell each other about their adventures and climbs, about Antarctica and Mount Everest.

Previous information

http://7tops.com/newsarchive/all_1/date_2011_2_9_1/item_2270/