Elbrus 2016

Yesterday, July 27, a group named "Colorado" under  leadership of the 7 Summits Club guide Sergey Larin (there are  5 Americans in the group) climbed to the Western peak of Elbrus. And three of them are also on the top of the Eastern Peak later. And all  team went down to the North Side, thus making the "Cross of Mount Elbrus". Hooray! Now the whole group resting on the of Glade Emanuel.

Hello! It is a guide of the Seven Summits Club Andrey Berezin from Elbrus. Today, our group went to the Pastukhov Rocks, it was an acclimatization day. Yesterday we passed snow-ice sessions, practiced skills to use an ice ax and moving on fixed ropes. Tomorrow we have a day of rest, we have a rest tomorrow preparing for the assault.

It was only the day after tomorrow we plan to go climbing. Bye! Andrey Berezin...

Hello! There is a  guide of the Seven Summits Club Andrey Berezin from Elbrus. Yesterday to a new group of climbers on Elbrus came to the village of Terskol. Today we went to a waterfall “Girlish braids” and up to the Observatory. The weather was good, the group felt, in general, well during the climb. We are currently in the hotel Povorot, here we rest and prepare for the next day, to a rise in the shelter Leaprus.

 Bye! Andrey Berezin, Seven Summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko reports: Indonesian Samurai team successfully reached the summit of Mount Elbrus this morning  under our wise leadership. And then, now is the day we celebrate the victory ....

 The Colorado team began preparations for the traverse of Mount Elbrus from south to north through the Western summit. Team is cheerful, has a good appetite. Today they made acclimatization to the Observatory, while showing an excellent physical preparation. All participants live in the Colorado area, so the name had not come up for a long time.

Hi! Here is Vladimir Kotlyar,  a guide of the 7 Summit Club,  climbing program Elbrus with the Positive FM team. Today we went up to the Western peak of  Mount Elbrus by the full team of Positive FM , 11 people. At the moment, we go down on the "oblique shelf" already gone about 5250. So, in principle, to the house a little bit left. Adios!

Good afternoon! It is Ludmila Korobeshko, this time from the village of Terskol. Here we went yesterday to a little rest and ride out the bad weather, which is now on Elbrus -  two or three days. And now - a very strong wind is  at the summit, we can say it is a storm, blizzard. And at night, and lightning flashing, thunder. At this time in Terskol cut off electricity.

In general, the plans we are following: we rise up and try to go at night to climb the summit. In fact, for our Indonesian group  it is the last chance, they already transferred tickets. Because the next night, in tomorrow night, they already have to fly to Moscow.

And now they are together, the whole team, went to the local mosque. Because they are all Muslims, and Friday prayer - this is for the Muslims in general, probably, the most sacred. In general, they are now all pray. I think, in particular, for our successful ascent. Here are our business. And still in the team, we had a small exchange.  As the second guide it will be Alex  Abramov. Well, wish us luck! Bye!

Alexander Abramov. Report of Elbrus Climb blitz program from climbing team under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. July 18th a team of five members arrived in Mineralnye Vody. July 19th we went to the shelter Leaprus. The weather was terrible. It was pouring rain and thunder rumbled. We barely made it to the shelter. After lunch we hired a snow tractor and climbed to the Pastukhov Rocks. At 4600m. There we spend about half-hour to acclimatize, then under the snow and heavy wind began to descend to the Refuge Eleven, where he held a snow-ice training.

 At night, in terrible weather, we went to the snowcat at 5100 m. From there, in terms of visibility up to 10 meters and winds of 40 km \ h and snow, we began to climb. We have put an additional 50 marker stake. Its rescued us on the descent. We walked to the top of 6 hours. Only the skill and experience of guides Andrey Berezin and Sanya Melky allowed us to find the way to the top and walk down the mountain alive.

It was one of the most extreme ascents in my life. But good job of guides guarantee total confidence and safety. At the top we spent 5 minutes (10 beautiful minutes - according to Andrew Berezin). Then there was a long descent into the blizzard. On this day, only about 20 people  managed to reach the summit of Elbrus. Most of people turned down. Now there is bad weather on Elbrus. And all the teams are waiting for improvements. And my team has already flown home today. Here's a blitz program!

July 20. The group of Indonesian samurais. Here is Lyudmila Korobeshko, all with the same slopes of Elbrus. Yesterday the storm rattled all night. In the morning we tried to go to acclimatize three times, but soaked through, just before reaching the toilet. As a result, we decided to make a day of rest yesterday. Today, we have completed our plans - went for acclimatization to the Pastukhov Rocks. The wind was  terrible and with snowstorm. Tired but satisfied we went down to the shelter. Tomorrow we want to go down to rest in Azau, and the next day to climb the shelter and on the same night to go on climbing.

Bye!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Sergei Larin and a group of older, but cheerful Indonesian Samurais ...

Hello everyone! Here is  Vladimir Kotlyar and the team "Positive FM". Today we are at Leaprus, our shelter with panoramic windows with views of glaciers and mountains. In the afternoon we were acclimated to 4100. We work out with ice ax, jumped, rode on the snow. Wet and happy went back home. Now we celebrate the birthday of Alexander Lipatov, a full-fledged member of our group...

Yesterday, a large and friendly team from Indonesia acclimatized on the slopes of the peak Terskol, led by guides 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko and Sergei Larin. They rose to the Observatory and admired the wonderful view from there. The current outing was already on Elbrus itself, its slopes. There, our guides conducted the first training on how to behave on snow and ice slopes, new to many Indonesians as a relief.

Lyudmila Korobeshko: A large group of Indonesians (15 persons) arrived today at the airport Mineralnye Vody, by the program Elbrus. They brought the heat to + 35. We will  have fun. Guides of group: Lyudmila Korobeshko and Sergey Larin.

In general, our 7 Summits Club today has a "mega-check", the route begin at once three large groups.

Today, a large group led by Andrei Berezin climbed Western peak of Mount Elbrus. Then the main part of the group began to descend to the north and safely came down to the Glade of Emanuel. Alex Byakin and guide Vladimir Kotlyar split from the group on the saddle. They successfully climbed to the Eastern Peak of Elbrus, and caught up with a group already at the bottom, in the meadows of the North slope of Elbrus. That is, they did "Cross of Elbrus" in the full version.

Polish mountaineers led by a guide Sergey Larin climbed independently from the main group. The group consisted of Father - Bartek, Son - Maciek and Mother - Renata. They have successfully reached the Western Peak, and then the guide and climbed the Eastern Peak. Mama Renata (at her home she has three more children) went on their own to the refuge Leaprus where she waited for her husband and son.

As a result, all participants performed their target. We congratulate the climbers!

Hello! This is a guide of the Seven Summits Club Andrei Berezin, from Elbrus. Today our group got to the shelter Leaprus. After we were placed in the refuge and had lunch, we went to the snow training sessions ... In the group, all participants are feeling well. The mood is high. Tomorrow the plan is to go to the Pastukhov Rocks. Andrey Berezin.

Hi,  Seven Summits! Take the information from the Caucasus! Today at 6:30 am, a group named "Skolkovo" in full stood on the Western peak of Mount Elbrus. Now, time is 10-30, the entire group safely came down to the shelter Leaprus. All is well, all alive and well, except for some abrasions and blisters. Dmitry Tertychnyi, a young 15-year-old climber, also successfully climbed the top. The ascent was difficult due to the fact that there was a lack of acclimatization. A little time we had to acclimatize. But we decided to go to try to climb to the summit today. Since tomorrow the weather worsens and the window on Saturday - was not clear. Therefore, we decided to collect will in a fist. And we did it! You can congratulate us! Bye! Sergey Larin.

It is a guide of the Seven Summits Club Andrei Berezin. Yesterday the group "Wild boars" climbed to the both summits of Elbrus and went to the North Slope. The five-person, five people ....  Yesterday we went down at once to the Glade of Emmanuel ... and then today we moved to Pyatigorsk ... The temperature in the city was higher than we had on mountains. Approximately there are about 30 degree, we had about minus 10 at night on Elbrus. Therefore, we get warm after climbing. Hello! Andrey Berezin.

On the first day  climbers went for acclimatization on the slopes of Mount Cheget. The group is interesting in that 15-year-old Dmitry Tertychnyi takes part in it. With a little luck, Elbrus will be his third of the "Seven Summits" after Carstenzs and Aconcagua. It will also be a crucial incentive to continue the ascents on the program -  to become the youngest Russian, and perhaps European, completed the "Seven Summits" ...

Climbing was successful in fine weather. Mountaineers made wonderful pictures. The top was conquered by two Chinese climbers and their guide Sergey Avtomonov.

 Here is his message:

 "Today we went to the Western peak of Elbrus, successfully skiing and snowboarding down. Now we are waiting for a well deserved rest and recovery for the next climb."

Today, the guides of the 7 Summits Club Andrei Berezin  and Vladimir Kotlyar, together with a group of "wild mountain boars" climbed the Leaprus shelter. After that they went to the snow training sessions, work with the axe and  learning to make traverse on fixed ropes. The Group is strong, fighting, fun, all the participants - not for the first time in the mountains. Now the group plans to climb both peaks of Elbrus and the descent to the North ....

Hello! This is Andrei Berezin from Elbrus. Today our group, with its full complement of five, climbed to the top of Mount Elbrus. We started at 3 am, on the top were in the 7-50. First, in the second half of the night, the weather was clear. But about six in the morning the weather began to deteriorate, cover the top by  clouds.

 But we still managed, we climbed to the top, in a not very pleasant weather. All friendly team, the five of us. We are now in Terskol, in the hotel Povorot. The team is resting after a hard working day.

 To be continued tomorrow. Best regards! Andrey Berezin.