Boris Egorov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, sends from Argentina:
Greetings from Patagonia! We have great news, we have climbed our summit! And this is the first mountain in Patagonia for Alexey. We had a great adventure.
The first day was a very beautiful trekking of 13 km to the base camp. Overnight in a tent on a small area between the rocks and exit at dawn. We went under the wall along the glacier and began the ascent itself. Moreover, Alexey was in the lead for the first half of the route, confidently moving along the cliff and reliably belayed. Here you need to do everything yourself, the rock is clean, not prepared, use special equipment (camalots). And we were calm for the leader, the training was not in vain.
That's just before the very top, we ran into a local rope that was slower, but there was no way to overtake them. We were roasting in the sun for 40 minutes, and did not wait for their descent.
As a result, 14 hours from camp to camp. It may not be fast, but it is safe and calm.
We decided to spend New Year's Eve down in the village and practically ran down, and the change of the year caught us 4 kilometers from the finish line on the shore of Lake Capri.
Now we are resting, waiting for the weather window for the main ascent.
Happy New Year to all!
Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.