Aconcagua 2019 - 2020

Hello from sunny Argentina! The New Years 7 Summits Club group (5 members and 3 guides) climbed to the top of  Mount Aconcagua, at 12.45 local time. The weather was surprisingly beautiful, in contrast to the forecast. Today we are already resting at the Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. Tomorrow we go down to Mendoza. Guides of the group Alexander Abramov and Andrey Berezin.

The second in the season (New Year's) group of the Russian  camp of the 7 Summits Club camp under with guides  Alexander Abramov and Andrey Berezin climbed to the top of Mount Aconcagua! Now the team is on the descent. Details on returning to the base camp.

Alexandr Dorojukov, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina: Hello everyone from Aconcagua,  from the group “Un poco”! Today we walked to the camp Canada. We checked the high-altitude boots, lifted the crampons up. Tomorrow is our day of rest, and if the weather is fine, we will arrange a bathing day. All members feel great.

Today the New Year's group of the 7 Summits Club went on an assault on the summit of Aconcagua. First we go up to the camp on Nido de Condores, tomorrow - the march to the Colera camp, and in the night – a summit bid. Guides of the group Alexander Abramov and Andrey Berezin.

Alex Abramov from Argentina: Two days of rest passed quickly. We visited the artist Miguel and he gifted one of his paintings to our cosmonaut Mikhail Kornienko. And today, Nims and his friends came to visit us. Also, our new large group, 12 members and 3 guides, came up from below.

 Tomorrow, January 10th, we go on an ascent. The weather is so-so, a strong wind, but the snow has stopped falling.

 Pictured (left to right): Dava (director, co-owner of 7 Summit Treks, 14 eight-thousanders at 30 years and 9 months), Alex Abramov (President of the 7 Summit Club), Nims (14 eight-thousanders over 6 months), Mingma (the youngest at 14 eight-thousanders - 30 years and 5 months).

The third group of the 7 Summits Club with a guide Alexander Dorojukov yesterday went from the Confluencia camp to Plaza Francia. It was an acclimatization ratation. Today they came to the Base Camp. March was really difficult, but everyone coped. Three days there was bad weather, now the situation has improved.

 A special group of the 7 Summits Club with the guides Egorov and Kotlyar arrived at the base camp a day earlier. Today they explored the surroundings of Plaza de Mulas. In the morning they went to the glacier, and after lunch they climbed bouldering. Perhaps this is the highest bouldering area in the world! The mood is good, the appetite is good, acclimatization continues.

 Andrey Berezin, guide of the 7 Summits Club:

News from the New Year group of the 7 Summits Club on Aconcagua. Yesterday we climbed Nido de Condores, during our acclimatization rotation, with an overnight stay. Today in the morning, for more acclimatization, we went up to the Plaza Cholera. Now we enjoy the warmth and comfort in the Base Camp on the Plaza de Mulas. The weather turned bad, it's snowing.

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorojukov:

Hello everyone from Aconcagua National Park! Today we registered permits and started to the Confluence camp. The weather makes us happy. The group’s first meeting with the mountain also pleased ...

Alex Abramov from Argentina:

Today in the Russian camp on Aconcagua it was a rest day. And it was a day of the strongest wind. The wind reached a speed of 105 km per hour. And by the end of the day, snow began to fall. And we played cards all day. Tomorrow the forecast is better and we will try to do an acclimatization rotation on Nido De Condores ...

Today, guides of the 7 Summits Club  Boris Egorov and Vladimir Kotlyar met with their not numerous, but fervent and fighting new team. These are Aleksey Sivkov and Evgeny Lesnitsky, who have already traveled with the 7 Summit Club several times! And another guide, Alexander Dorojukov, met the following group. Everyone was met, luggage arrived in order. The guides checked the equipment, then there was traditionally drank some wine and Argentinean steaks. Tomorrow we get permits and move on up the mountains.

Today on Aconcagua  there was a day of acclimatization, rotation to Canada camp 5000m. The whole team, 10 people, climbed at a good pace: some in 3 hours, some in 4 hours. Tomorrow is a day of rest and the forecast promises a hurricane. Therefore, our two Sherpas went to 5600 and 6000 and strengthened the fastening of our tents. Tomorrow we decided to make a Sherpa Party. Fortunately, seven Sherpas are working in Aconcagua in different teams. And we are also waiting for arrival of Nims (Nirmal Purja) with his team.

Andrey Berezin a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

Our second Aconcagua (New Year's) group successfully reached the base camp of the Plaza de Mulas. There we were cordially greeted by Alex Abramov.

Today we practiced moving in crampons on ice. For this, a beautiful glacier with calgaspores was chosen. Guides of the group Alex Abramov and Andrey Berezin.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and leader of the group:

Happy New Year! We stormed Aconcagua for four days. And on New Year's Eve, the team climbed to the summit. All 15 people: 11 members and 4 guides.

   On December 31, 2019 from 13:30 to 14:00 Argentine time, all 11 members and 4 guides of the first team of the 7 Summits Club of the season climbed to the top of Aconcagua. Leader: Alexander Abramov, President of the Club of 7 Summits.

The Russian camp on Aconcagua offers a unique service, see the website of the 7 Summits Club ...

Video and photos of the day of assault on the peak...

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and the leader of the group:

Aconcagua!!! Today, December 31, 2019 from 13:30 to 14:00 Argentine time, all 11  members and 4 guides of the first team of the 7 Summits Club ascended to the top of реу highest peak of America. Happy New Year, everyone!

Andrei Berezin’s group arrived in Mendoza yesterday. They got permits for climbing Aconcagua and started  today to Penitentes.

Alex Abramov from Argentina:  Tonight there was a beautiful sunset over Aconcagua. And  plus Argentinean Asado - meat on fire. Life is really perfect!

Tomorrow at 11 o’clock in the morning we go on a climb. In order to stand on  the top of Aconcagua in 2 days.

Alex Abramov from Argentina: 

 Today there was a day of rest at Aconcagua Base Camp on the Plaza de Mulas. The team members washed, collected equipment, “cleaning feathers”. By chance today, the owner of the company, Kari Kobler, came into the camp. We work side by side on Everest base camp around for 20 years.

 I also met Hiro (Hiroyuki Kuraoka). He is the best Japanese guide. We worked a lot alongside him on all Seven summits. Hiro is on the right in the photo…

 And also, yesterday Czech skyrunner Martin Zhor set a new world record. He ran to the summit of Aconcagua from the Plaza de Mulas (4200 m) to the top in 3 hours 38 minutes 17 seconds. Moreover, he says that he kept a heart rate of 140 beats per minute. And only at the top of the pulse rose to 160. Probably, from the happiness that he became the owner of a world record.

Alex Abramov from Argentina: 

Yesterday, the group of the 7 Summits Club spent a night at Nido De Condores, at 5600m for acclimatization. Guides and sherpas brought all things in advance. They set up a large tent - a kitchen-dining room, other tents, brought public sleeping bags and rugs. Members brought only crampons and clothes. The night was fun. In the morning, the group went down, but four of the five guides went up to the Cholera camp at an altitude of 6000m. And they also set up there a kitchen-dining tents, 7 tents for members and guides, sleeping bags, rugs and food were also raised. Everything is ready for the ascent от Aconcagua, which according to the plan should take place on the night of December 30-31.

The 7 Summits Club team climbed into the Nido de Condores camp on the slopes of Aconcagua. Here, at an altitude of 5500 meters, the group will spend one night with the aim of acclimatization and will go down to the base camp.