Everest(8848) - Page 17

According to the information received: The first group of the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alex Abramov in the morning continued the descent and is now approaching the North Col. Artem Rostovtsev's group (second) successfully reached the top of Everest and started the descent.

According to the information available to date, the group took the route around 1 am. About 7-8 am in Nepal time they were halfway (passed the Second step). Go slowly. Hard traffic. Strong wind.  At 10:30 the whole group stood at the top. Now the team is on the descent.

 Heroes of the day: Alexander Abramov, Irina Zisman, Dima Ghinkulov, Arno Ter-Saakov, Andrey Polyakov, Ivan Pominov, Bartholomey Paczoski. And our Sherpa friends.

A group of Tibetan climbers who hang and fix ropes now is  on the snow triangle. It's 8700M. So they have to finish line to the top by afternoon and reach  the summit!

Today we continue our ascent to 8300 m. And in the evening, almost at night, probably at 9 PM we will go to the summit bid.

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from Everest.  Now the first team is staying for the night at 7700. All members came to the camp for 4.5-5 hours.  Everything is OK..  But here is too many people. At least 150 people are going to the summit at the same time…

Our second team  with Artem Rostovtsev climbed to the North Col…

 Wind is strong. We're coming to 8300 tomorrow. But there are still no fixed ropes to the top .

Alexander Abramov from Everest. The height of 7000 meters. North col. Today we climbed  from ABC, for 3-4 hours.  We used oxygen, now the team sleeps in tents. Tomorrow's - 7700. And through day – 8300 and immediately  the summit bid, start at night. The whole team feels great. The weather forecast for the 23rd and 24th is good.  I hope we will succeed.

Dear Friends!  We decided on the plan of our climbing schedule on Everest.  Tomorrow morning, the Chinese "Rope Team" goes to Camp 2 and begins to fix the rope. 21st and 22nd they have to finish work on fixing ropes to the top.

The first team of the 7 Summits Club (leader Alex Abramov) should be on following schedule. May 20 – North  Col. May 21 - 7800. May 22 - 8300. 23 of May, a summit bid and descent to ABC.  May 24 -  descent to the Base Camp.

The second team (leader Artem Rostovtsev)  May 21 – North Col. May 22 - 7800. May 23 - 8300. May 24 - the summit and the descent to ABC. May 25 - descent to the Base Camp.

 On May 25 in the morning yaks take all the members ' belongings to the Base Camp.

May 25th in the evening there will be a farewell party.  May 26th morning departure of the entire team of 14 people in Shigatse.  May 27 move to Lhasa. May 28 - flight to Chengdu and then on the flight home.

Buses and yaks are all booked!

Alex Abramov, the expedition leader:

The first Everest 2019 team, 6 members and Abramov as guide, came to the ABC Advanced Base Camp. The mood is cheerful. One problem, the Chinese still haven't fixed the ropes to the top of Everest. So probably tomorrow it will be a Day of rest in ABC at 6400 m. Waiting for a miracle.

 By the way the ABC camp we have a very comfortable, warm and dry. There is satellite Internet, gas heaters and even jacket potato…

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the expedition:

The second team starts from the base camp towards the summit. We are promised good weather and fixed ropes to the top. We hope and believe.

 Standing: Igor Smirnov, Mircea Baciu, Vadim Vokriachko, Sergei Larin (will work in a camp on the North Col), Eugeny Staroselsky, Pawel Janczarski, Artem Rostovtsev (guide).

Alex Abramov, expedition leader:

Hello from Everest!  The first team left the Base Camp for the summit assault:  Alexander Abramov, Irina Zisman, Dima Ghinculov, Arno Ter-Saakov, Andrey Polyakov, Ivan Pominov, Bartolomiej Paczoski. According to the plan, the summit bid for the first team is scheduled for May 22 or 23. The second team led by Artem Rostovtsev leaves the base camp tomorrow. Plan – the summit for 23 or 24 May.

Alex Abramov, Everest-2019 expedition leader: we have rest days now. We decided not to hurry, the weather is bad…

Today there was really strong wind on Everest…

The team of the 7 Summits Club celebrates Irina Zisman's Birthday on the bank of small river, where the team members catch trout…

The next two or three days, our team goes up to Everest…

Alex Abramov, expedition leader:

 Hello! Expedition Everest-2019 continues. Also my Project “7 summits for 7 months” continues.   But our vacation down in the village is over.   On May 9, we were already at the Base camp and celebrated the Victory Day there.  It was fun. About 100-150 people were visiting us. We danced, sang war songs. And the next day, on May 10, we rested from rest, restored the spent forces.

 Now a period of waiting for good weather is coming.  First of all, we expect the Sherpas to hang all the fixed ropes.

Greetings from Everest!  Today our recreation time is over. For three days we slept, ate, drank, fished and relaxed. Tonight we are holding a party in honor of May 9th at the Base camp.

 From April 15 to May 5, the team made three acclimatization rotations: 5800, 6400, 7000 m. All 17 members climbed the Northern Col of Everest and spent a night there in severe weather conditions: wind up to 90 km/h, avalanche-prone slopes, snow up to 0.5 meters. Dozens of other expedition tents were torn by the wind. For the 7 Summits Club 100% tents  were without any loss. All this thanks to the experience of guides Sergey Larin, Artem Rostovtsev and wise intuition of Alex Abramov  - it is his 20th expedition on 8000 m mountains and attempt for  the 10th ascent to the top of Everest.

Tomorrow morning all 17 members going on rest for 3 nights in the village  of Tashijong to a height of 4200m. And May 9 our expedition invites all 160 people from the base camp of Mount Everest  to celebrate Victory Day!!!

Alexander Abramov, leader of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club:

Greetings from 6400 – from the ABC camp on Everest! During the day we descended from our last acclimatization rotation, after spending a night on the North Col.  Altitude 7000m.  Yesterday in the evening the weather deteriorated.  All night long our camp (all members and guides) groaned and coughed under snow. But this was not heard, because of the strong wind and heavy snow.  In the morning we were forced to punch the trail down and pull the rope out of the half-meter layer of snow.  It wasn't easy. But no one tent of our camp was tumbled down. In previous days, dozens of tents were demolished and torn down by many expeditions. Tomorrow we go down to the Base camp…

Guide the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev:

Team Everest-2019. We have adopted for it the name of "Change the bottle!"  We'll climb up for acclimatization from Base camp to the North Col. Today there will be climb from ABC camp to the Saddle, there we will spend a night at 7000 meters. The wind is blowing very strong, which worries us.

Today there was the last day of rest in our comfortable Base camp.   And tomorrow we go to ABC camp and then to the North Col (7000 m) of Everest.

Also today it marks exactly 20 years since the wedding of Igor and Natalia Smirnov. We congratulate them!

 Artem Rostovtsev, guide the 7 Summits Club:

 The team returned to the base camp. The strategy of successful ascent is the same for all: consistently rotation after rotation to get used, as far as possible, to new heights. And then rest at base camp. So the day before we got used to the height of the Advanced camp (ABC) at 6400. We also got acquainted with our team of Sherpas, and conducted training with them using fixed ropes.  And now we will observe the forecasts and may have to speed up the climb to the North Col. It is exciting!

Alex Abramov, expedition leader of the expedition:

 Today our team rested in the Base Camp.  Official representatives of the Tibetan mountaineering federation came to us and took money for the arrangement of fixed ropes way. So far, the route is not equipped, even to the North Col. They say that avalanche danger exist.

 Life in the camp went on as usual: shower, massage, bar, visiting. The neighbors played Rugby, which was the first time here. And we were learning a new invention: “Sherpa rope”. So we called a short link between the membert and Sherpa. It was my idea to improve security. Now the responsible Sherpa will be connected to his member with a 3-meter rope.

Alex Abramov, the expedition leader from the base camp:

Yesterday our team climbed to the camp 5800 m. This is the so-called Intermediate or Middle camp. All members felt good.  It snows half a day, but this is usually in April.  We spent a night in the Middle camp and returned to the Base camp, in absolutely comfortable conditions.

Alex Abramov, the expedition leader from the base camp:

Today we climbed a little higher than the base camp and held training sessions. All members have worked well, we have mastered a new for many system climbing on fixed ropes. We checked the readiness of people and equipment.

Tomorrow early in the morning the team leaves to spend a night in camp 5800. The health of the members is excellent. The weather is bad, no visibility, periodically it snowing strong.