Everest(8848) - Page 21

Dо you want to know what other surprises have prepared tireless Alex Abramov for the upcoming expedition to Everest this spring? See below for sensational news!

Soon we are going to farewell an expedition of 7 Summits Club on Everest. We wish them good luck, that is, weather and health. And good service we must provide…

Lyudmila Korobeshko tells:

When Alex began bringing Sherpas to Russia 10 years ago to Elbrus for the purpose of teaching Russian language and mentality, it was unusual.

When Alex began to bring Sherpas cooks to Moscow to teach Russian and Ukrainian culinary delights - t was surprising, but also interesting and understandable.

After all the bortsch and cutlets in the base camp of Everest please everyone.

But when Alex said that he had invited a professional chef to his expedition this year... and  from Chile!!!, I ... hardly surprised ... after all these beds in camps, bar tents, yoga studios, Jacuzzi and masseuses...

By the way, those who were in Antarctica should remember Patricio. This cheerful cook, swearing in Russian.

Colorful Chilean Patricio. He has been working for many seasons in Antarctica at the Union Glacier and worked for several seasons on Russian cruise liners, where he learned expressive Russian.

In General, it should be a lot of fun and very tasty!

Less than a month remains before the departure on Everest of the team of  the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. It will be our 15th expedition, and it will be the largest in terms of quantity, almost 40 people.  But equally important are changes in quality of service. Experience shows that the percentage of successful ascents in expeditions directly depends on the conditions in which the participants are placed, how comfortable is their rest, on the quality of food and service in general.

 Therefore, from year to year our base camp is becoming more and  more comfortable, we come up with new types of affordable services, new forms of leisure, trying to improve communication and so on. This year, for the first time in the history of Everest base camps, the 7 Summits Club will provide members of our expedition with individual tents equipped with full beds, lighting and a separate room with a work desk. In addition, we will again improve our places of social pastime, we will have a full bar, sauna and massage salon…

Listen for yourself head (for the 16th time) Everest expedition Alexander Abramov (in Russian):

Everest "luxury camp»

Luxury camp

In the base camp we will have large heated tents, at the rate of one per person. In the first room there will be a table, a chair, lighting, a charge for gadgets - you can sit and work on a computer. In the second room - a bedroom, which is an elongated (210 cm) bed with a 12 cm mattress, and a wardrobe for storing personal belongings. Floors are covered with carpets, and oil heaters will contribute to a comfortable rest.

Also on the territory of the camp will be installed "pub" - a huge 12-meter tent with a pool table, poufs and drinks.

According to comments, some climbers dream of Everest about massage in the base camp. Well - the impossible – is possible! This year the team of the 7 Summits Club  will organize a small salon of sports massage!

Less than a month remains before the departure on Everest of the team of  the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. It will be our 15th expedition, and it will be the largest in terms of quantity, almost 40 people.  But equally important are changes in quality of service. Experience shows that the percentage of successful ascents in expeditions directly depends on the conditions in which the participants are placed, how comfortable is their rest, on the quality of food and service in general.

 Therefore, from year to year our base camp is becoming more and  more comfortable, we come up with new types of affordable services, new forms of leisure, trying to improve communication and so on. This year, for the first time in the history of Everest base camps, the 7 Summits Club will provide members of our expedition with individual tents equipped with full beds, lighting and a separate room with a work desk. In addition, we will again improve our places of social pastime, we will have a full bar, sauna and massage salon…

Listen for yourself head (for the 16th time) Everest expedition Alexander Abramov (in Russian):

Everest "luxury camp»

Luxury camp

In the base camp we will have large heated tents, at the rate of one per person. In the first room there will be a table, a chair, lighting, a charge for gadgets - you can sit and work on a computer. In the second room - a bedroom, which is an elongated (210 cm) bed with a 12 cm mattress, and a wardrobe for storing personal belongings. Floors are covered with carpets, and oil heaters will contribute to a comfortable rest.

Also on the territory of the camp will be installed "pub" - a huge 12-meter tent with a pool table, poufs and drinks.

According to comments, some climbers dream of Everest about massage in the base camp. Well - the impossible – is possible! This year the team of the 7 Summits Club  will organize a small salon of sports massage!

On March 2, Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko showed themselves to the St. Petersburg audience. At the invitation of our friends from the company "Red Fox" they performed in the store Planet Sport. The lecture was originally supposed to be dedicated to the speed record set by team Alpari, headed by Lyudmila Korobeshko in 2012. But Alexander Abramov at the last moment introduced the topic adjustments. "Seven Summits in seven weeks. The impossible is possible" - at first I thought that it was some kind of joke. But listen for yourself (in Russian):

The Federation of Mountaineering of Russia on December 2 held an annual gala evening devoted to summing up the results of the year. On it the president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov presented memorable signs "Summiter of  Everest" to the climbers who have climbed the highest point of the World in 2017 ...

Thanks to the organizers of the evening for the excellent opportunity to communicate with good, close in spirit people!

Photos of different authors from facebook:

On 2 December, the Federation of mountaineering of Russia (FMR) holds an annual gala evening devoted to summarizing the year. On it, in particular, the President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov will present a commemorative signs "Everest Climber". Climbers who have ascended to the highest point of the planet in 2017 first time, will receive this award. A list is provided below.

Gala evening of FMR will be held on 2 December 2017 in the hall of the Russian auction house (the building of Gostiny Dvor)

Arrival of guests at 18.00…

We invite all friends of 7 summits Club!

A list of reward climbers 2017:

Lyulyaev Cyril (38 years old) 16.05.2017 (Summit)

Dzeitov Mohammed (32) 22.05 2017

Telnov Alexander (39) 22.05.2017

Grushko Igor, Ukraine (42) 22.05.2017

Sadecki George (53) 22.05.2017

Kochanski Janusz, Poland (54) 19.05.2017

Tebiev Valery (46) 22.05.2017

Akkaev Aznaur (44) 22.05.2017

Briman, Daniil (46) 22.05.2017

Kravt Eugene (41) 22.05.2017

Savchenko, Oleg (50) 19.05.2017

 Starikovsky, Andrei  USA/Russia (52) 19.05.2017

Sidyakin Alexander (39) 19.05.2017

In the framework of the gala evening also there  will be held:

-  awarding of the Champions of Russia in the high-altitude and high-altitude-technical classes;

-  awarding  of the Champions among veterans;

- presentation of nominees and  awarding of Steel angel Award  for the best women's climbing of the year;

-  presentation of nominees and awarding of the Golden ice axe of Russia 2017 Award for the best climbing achievement of the year.

On December 1, there was a significant event - an evening dedicated to the famous Soviet, Russian alpinist Vladimir Bashkirov. Many thanks to the organizers of the event - companies BASK, Swell and MONT! Surprisingly a large number of mountain lovers, mostly not the youngest, managed to get together. Full hall! Everyone who knew Vladimir remembered the glorious pages of mountaineering of the past. If he were alive now, he would have walked with us along trekking trails, having already passed all 14 eight-thousanders a couple of times. But, alas, Bashkirov remained a 45-year-old, a master, a leader full of enthusiasm climber. Remained in our memory and became a legend ...

The main event of the evening is the premiere of the documentary "Vladimir Bashkirov. Love dissolved in the air. " Director - Natalia Makhanko, who completed the work begun by her husband, who untimely left us Leonid Mach.

On the stage, we saw the widow of the hero Natalia, the coach and teacher of Bashkirov - Vladimir Kavunenko, his partners from the team of Spartak and the team of alpinists of Moscow.

An active member of our Club Daniil Briman, Everest climber this year in the team under the leadership of Alex Abramov, made an unusual gift to us and to all climbers. He released a beer called “8848”…

 Beer is made from water from the glaciers of mount Everest (this is unconfirmed). As confirmed by the data: hops is from the USA, malt is from Germany, juniper and Goji berries – from the Altai. Design and production - Russia.

 The first informal tasting will be held tomorrow (Thursday) at the 7 Summits Club on the lecture of Olga Rumyantseva.

And the official tasting - December 2th, at the year meeting of the Russian Mountaineering Federation. Where Alexander Abramov,  8^th times Everest climber, will be presenting the medals to the climbers for Everest 2017.

We invite all mountain lovers!

The 7 Summits Club congratulates Ivan Dusharin happy anniversary! We wish our friend, companion on the mountain travel, teacher and example in life, a new sports and creative achievements, good health and joy! We hope of new joint projects and meetings in the mountains and on the plain!

October 20, Friday, the 7 Summits Club celebrated its 10th anniversary in the restaurant "Korchma Taras Bulba", at our friend Yuri Beloyvan. The evening passed very quickly and we can't believe we had so much to hear and see. Thank you friends who came to congratulate us! Thanks to those who sent greetings to other types of communication! Thanks to the staff of the restaurant!

Among other things, highlight the following presentations:

1. Opening remarks of Yuri Beloyvan (owner of Korchma Taras Bulba) with a story about his Seven summits and friendship with our Club.

2. The performance of Natalia Smirnova (our permanent participant in the most difficult and interesting, including "pioneering" expeditions) with the story of the campaign under Manaslu.

3. Video clip of our guide Vladimir Kotlyar about climbing Manaslu.

4. Congratulations from our partners and friends from around the world..

5. The performance of our guide and high-altitude doctor all Everest expeditions Sergey Larin with a story about our new project - 14 eight-thousanders. Next summer we organize an expedition to Gasherbrum-II

6. The story of Lyudmila Korobeshko with the announcement of our fall HELICOPTER expedition to the Karstensz.

Video:

And pictures:

Birthday of the 7 Summits Club – a traditional event that without a very good reason you have not miss! But this time – it will be our first big anniversary! 10 YEAR!

We invite all friends and those who want to be our friend, October 20, on Friday. Beginning at 19-30

The meeting place restaurant Korchma "Taras Bulba", address - Sadovaya-Samotechnaya 13/14

Prepare in advance, free evening for meeting friends!

Premiere of the documentary RD Studio of Valdis Pelsh "Gene of high altitude or How to get to Everest" is showing  by the First channel Russian TV. We saw the two first of three parts. Who could not, please see here:

Today  at midnight please come to the TV-screens to watch the sequel...

On  5 July 2017. Live from 23.55.

Do the rating, comment, praise or scold. This may influence on future joint projects of 7 summits Club and RD Studios.

A thousand people in the hall of the Cinema House with great attention watched the movie. And many times there was applause. Evaluation of authors - excellent!

Movie trailer:

  And now to the TV. Full version for the first time will be shown there. Premiere of the documentary RD Studio Valdis Pelsh "Gene of  high altitude or How to climb Everest" will be shown the First channel  Russian TV  at 3, 4 and 5 July 2017. Live from 23.50.

  Then, as promised in the evening Kristina Kozlova, the film will be posted on the website of RD Studio.

We continue the publication of photos of the Everest expedition from one of the members, Princeton University Professor Andrei Starikovsky, who was the first of our team reached this year the summit of Mount Everest.

 Third series: Ice training sessions and portraits of expedition members (206 photos)

 https://7vershin.ru/photos/all/section_946/

Here (below) are just a few favorites....

 Second series: base camp, acclimatization outings and the ritual Puja (100 photos)

 https://7vershin.ru/photos/all_1/section_943/

First series: Nepal, Tibet, the road to base camp (202 photos)

 https://7vershin.ru/photos/all_1/section_942/

Alexander Abramov: Congratulations Zhenya with the end of the program "Seven summits"! And the team are leaving Nepal ...

Alex Abramov, a leader of the Everest expedition:

Today, finally, we got to Lhasa and settled in the cool Intercontinental hotel. We need to give people a rest from the expedition life, it was difficult to live under field conditions for 40 days. A little about outcomes. We conducted an expedition in 39 days. This is probably the shortest of the Everest expedition for 10 years. The experiment was a success and showed that it is possible. Just do not economize , let more oxygen.

After all, all problems on the high altitude are from the lack of oxygen.

In our expedition there was records and remarkable achievements. And some of them we pointed out today.

Janusz Kochanski – world record of 126 days on all 7 summits.

Eugene Kravt successfully completed the 7 summits project.

Aznaur Akaev – 3rd Balkar climber who became a summiter of Everest.

Valery Tebiev – the first since 1995 Ossetian mountaineer who climbed Mount Everest.

Daniil Briman - made the ascent in sporty style.

Andrei Starikovsky, the first Russian American Professor on Everest.

Other heroes: world women record holder Lhakpa Sherpa, Oleg Savchenko and Alexander Sidyakin have already left home.

Sergei Larin – 6th time on the summit of Everest.

Alexander Abramov – 8 times – a new record for Russia and the CIS.

 Oleg Savchenko, Everest summiter in the team the 7 summits Club, a former Deputy of the Duma of the Russian Federation:

 Yes, we managed, as promised, to preserve fully but  the one body. This is the body of Lihteneker Marko from Slovenia. All dead climbers that are on the slopes, they are in different poses. I was just horrified. I thought when they announced this action, I saw pictures in internet but it was not so impressive. It's a terrible sight to see people who are 20 years, 40 years in that condition, with that expression on his face, with which they died. And we have not much time but did it.

 I am very grateful to the Sherpas who accompanied us, that they agreed to help us. According to their faith, they are forbidden to touch the dead bodies. I went in one group with Alexander Sidyakin, my friend and Deputy of the Russian State Duma. We were accompanied by two Sherpas.

We also managed to cover the "famous" green boots. Everyone knows that at the level of 8 500 meters... (said with heavy breathing - approx. ed.)... Sorry, I now the air is not enough... In 1996 there died one Indian climber Tsewang Paljor, he just lay down to rest and froze to death. His body had frozen into stone. He had a green climbing boots. And all the climbers began to determine the height to talk about the green shoes. This is the mark of 8,500 meters.

 We were able to do some semblance of the grave, covered his body with stones. Now there is no this reference. I think it's better to use gadgets for navigation than dead body.

 Another body of a climber from Ireland we tried to pull out, but were unable. He hangs on the ropes at the altitude 8600 meters. When we have been trying,  I have "flown" the glove, I ended up frostbitten hands. And then it was impossible to continue.

  Most importantly, all of the climbers in base camp have supported our initiative. It is about 600 climbers of all nationalities, from all over the world. From South Africa, India and to North America. Moreover, it was supported by the official Chinese…

 Marko Lihteneker (1959 -2005) was one of the first foreigners who took part in the ascent to Everest in the expedition of the 7 summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. He and his partner Viktor Mlinár positioned itself as an experienced, strong athletes who wanted  to make a quick ascent before to the top goes the main mass of climbers. And not to use the services of Sherpas.

  Marko was a member of the national team of Slovenia for ski-mountaineering and marathon runner, there was no doubt about his physical condition. And his friend Viktor had no doubt that there is something wrong in the fact that his comrade  goes behind. Just Marko all the time had small problems with the oxygen equipment he set up. Mlinár was afraid of frostbite and so I decided to go without delay. Be with them, someone from the Sherpas,  a misfortune most likely could have been avoided. Lihteneker died on the descent from the summit of Mount Everest, a problem with the oxygen equipment apparently played a major role in this. The frozen body of  the Slovenian climber, hung on ropes at a height of 8800 meters, more than 10 years the terror of the rising climbers. And now the body is covered. Hope for a long time. Will check in a year.

May 22 at 4: 30 am Nepal time the second team of the 7 summits Club reached the summit of Everest. These were: Valery Tebiev, Daniil Briman, Eugene Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Alexander Abramov (his 8th times). Now they have gone down to the base camp. All climbers feel fine. Tomorrow or the day after they are ready to go to Lhasa. And later in Kathmandu, and in Russia.

Once again, congratulations on a successful ascent!

See unique photos:

An hour ago, Alexander Abramov reports, that today, May 22th, at 4: 30 am Nepal time, the team reached the summit of Mount Everest. Have a good descent, guys!

 At 6 am in Moscow all members were already on 8300 and continued the descent.

 The summit was reached by: Valery Tebiev, Daniil Briman, Eugene Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Alex Abramov (8th times).

Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from camp 8300.

 Our entire team at 8300. Already above Cho-Oyu. In General, as this is our 4th outing, everyone is feeling great. All parts of the route: base camp – middle camp, middle camp – ABC, ABC– 7000, 7000 – 7800, 7800 – 8300 we passed exactly  in 3:45. All! I'm scared that we will do tomorrow. Again 3:45 to the summit?

Now the weather at 8300 is windless. And the forecast is the same. It seems, we caught a beautiful night for climbing.

 One thing upset. It looks like tonight or this morning, one climber died five meters below 8300. It is still unknown from which expedition. But he went without oxygen. It seems the dead man is just lying around the trail.

 The route on Everest

https://yandex.ru/everest/

Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the camp 7800.

 Today at 7500, we met Janusz Kochanski, our member from Poland, which is already the second time takes part in our expeditions on Everest. We let him go ahead of our group to make a world record. And he did it. After today's climb, the speed record for completing all of the "seven summits" is 128 days. Janusz began in Antarctica, it was January 13 or 14, with Mount Vinson. And he finished on 20^th of May, when he climbed Mount Everest.

Record of Colin O’Brady from 2016 was 132 days.