Everest(8848) - Page 22

 Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the slopes of Everest.

 Our team Abramov Alex, Briman Daniil, Kravt Eugene, Tebiev Valery, Akkaev  Aznaur – all climbed to 7800. We feel excellent. The weather is a little windy. With us four Sherpas are going up. We already camped in tents, ate, everything is OK. Tomorrow at 10 am we go to 8300.

 In the base camp staff and friends prepare to meet the heroes, the team of Sergey Larin  shall be back tonight.

 Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the slopes of Everest.

Hi! From the North Col at 7,000 m. Today, our group climbed up the Saddle, with a plan to climb the summit at 22th May. Today Andrei Starikovsky at 6:00 am climbed up to the top of Everest. Later the rest of the first team headed by Sergei Larin (Alexander Sidyakin and Oleg Savchenko plus Sherpas) reached the summit. It happened around 12:00. Now, at 16:00, the whole team went down to the camp 8300...

See route on

https://yandex.ru/everest/

Alexander Abramov, leader of the expedition, from the slopes of Everest.

Day 32. May 18. The Expedition of the  7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

Today, the team of Alexander Abramov moved to camp ABC at 6400m. Hence it is a hand... the foot of the mountain

Today the group under the management of Sergey Larin moved from camp 7800 to camp 8300. On the ridge today there was a heavy wind. But as usual,  in the evening the wind abates. We hope that tonight our friends could start to a summit bid. My team tomorrow plans to move from the camp at 6400 to the North Col where we will wait for the descent of the team of Sergey Larin from the summit. They are OK now,  physical conditions are excellent, in a group there is 6 Sherpas on three participants and one guide. And a lot of oxygen.

The route on

https://yandex.ru/everest/

Alex Abramov from Tibet.

Day 31. May 17. Expedition the 7 Summits Club “Everest 2017”.

Today, our well-rested team (3 days we were recovering at the base camp) again came from the base camp towards the summit. The plan: to climb to the top on May 22th. We are now on the 5800 camp. Tomorrow – ABC. Now our second team, Sergey Larin with three members is in the camp at 7800 meters. Tomorrow they go to 8300 and  next night – assault.

Day... May 17, 2017
7 Summits Club Everest 2017 Expedition.
Yesterday, Lakpa Sherpa returned to Base Camp after summiting Everest for the 8th time! New World Record for women!
Our second team is starting today from the Base Camp. With summit day set for May 22nd! Yanush Khohansky is in this team. He is going for the record as well - 7 Summits in 129 days.
Our first team spent the night on North Col (7000 m or 23000 ft) and moving today into 7800 m Camp (25600 ft). Summit day is set for May 19.
Weather is great, condition of the rout is great. All team members are eager to go up! Battle up!

May 14. Yay! Hooray For The 7 Summits Club!!!! There is the first ascent on Everest in 2017!

This is the team of the 7 Summits Club:  Nima Dorji Sherpa (9th time on the top) and the Female World record holder Lhakpa Sherpa, climbed Mount Everest 8th time!!! According to her story, the weather was terrible. Fixed ropes were inundated with 50 cm of snow and climbers had to pull out  it from under the snow. Near the summit there was a very strong wind and as a result Lhakpa has moderate frostbites on both cheeks.

Our second team under the leadership of Sergei Larin now  is preparing  to summit climb in the camp ABC 6400 m.

The group under the leadership of Alex Abramov  (first team) went from ABC  back  to the Base camp at 5100 m to recover and after 2 days again to start for the summit.

 The weather on Everest is now not good:  waist-deep snow and heavy wind. From the Nepalese side there is no one summit. From our side we have just a team of Sherpas who fixed rope to the top, a small team from India and our heroic deuce, headed by World record holder - Lhakpa Sherpa...

The leader of the expedition on Everest Alex Abramov from Tibet.

 Day 26. May 12.

The expedition  of the 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

Friends, we go up to the assault of Mount Everest in about an hour.

The first group is under the leadership of Alex Abramov. Daniil Briman, Eugeny Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Valery Tebiev, Janusz Kochanski. Here's the plan: today, May 12^th  - Middle Camp, 5800. Tomorrow, May 13^th  – camp ABC. The next day, 14^th of May – the North Col, 7000. Then May 15^th  - camp 7700. Then, May 16^th  – camp 8300. Then on 17th of May, the summit bid and descent to 6400. The second group under the leadership of Sergei Larin will go after us, a day later. Wish us Luck!

The leader of the expedition on Everest Alexa Abramov from Tibet.

 Day 24. May 10^th .

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning, the Chinese called us to the feast of cleaning debris. There were a lot of journalists. Then all dispersed. And I happily went to the village Tashijong 4200m, to the other members of the expedition. I slept all day, because there is incredibly much oxygen  here .

Day 25. May 11^th .

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning we decided to go back to the Base camp as the weather like getting better. And many of the expedition had moved to the ABC camp. And here we are at the Base camp. First we were reported that today the Sherpas fixed the ropes to the top. Probably tomorrow we will go up to Middle camp.

Alexander Abramov has sent photographs illustrating previous posts. It was the second acclimatization exit, during which the team climbed to the camp on the North Saddle (North Col) and spent a night there. Everything goes according to the plan, and today our team is celebrating the Victory Day in the base camp...

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the North Col camp:

Day 21. May 7. The Expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

In the morning our whole team was ready to quickly run to the North Col for acclimatization. But then from the heaven came the order came to organize Puja. All expeditions have a mortar, but we do not. Therefore, only 9 am for Nepal time we were able to get out of ABC in the direction of the North Col, 7000 metres. The team was in good condition. Sometimes, though, the criticism sounded in the address of the leader: why go fast, why stand, why not stand, why not go… Difficult to satisfy all 12 people. But I think I managed – experience of old-school.

And here we climbed to the Saddle. Immediately it began to snow. Generally, there is snow falls afternoon every day. Now the wind is almost off, but the crazy snow is predicted for all next week. On the North Col at 7000 meters, we have a cook. And large tent with tables and chairs is installed. Thanks to this comfort, members feel more free. There is even a tent as a toilet. In short, we have a full camp. We all sleep surprisingly  good and excellent. In the morning, the Sherpas got coffee in bed. Now we have a long way down to the base camp. And tomorrow is a Holiday on May 9. We want to organize a Super-Party, which has already become traditional.

Alex Abramov from camp ABC: Day 20. May 6. The expedition of the 7 summits Club Everest-2017.

 By the way, I slept on my 5800 fine, which indicates a good acclimatization. Yesterday to the Middle camp I came in 4:50. Today, from Middle camp to ABC - 5:30. A good time, given that it was snowing, and the strong wind on the path. Weather was not the best. But in the camp ABC it is cozy. At 6400 – cozy, unbelievable! But it's true. Excellent food, heaters in the tents.

Today  there was a joyful event,  Janusz (Kochanski) join us, our Pole. He just went from Mount Denali, that climbed in the "off season" in April. And already he is here. He is now doing the program "SevenSummits" a second time, as the first in Poland. He also currently completing  by Everest the program "Seven summits" for 4 months. This must be a new world record for speed. All his predecessors beginning with Mount Vinson in late January, and finally climbed Everest in May and then go on Denali in June. And Janusz decided to go to Denali before Everest. And he has a chance to finish high-speed version of the "Seven summits" already on May 20-21. Here are our recorsmen. As Lhakpa Sherpa, who  goes to Everest with our team for the eighth time. And may set a new world record among women.

 I'm going to sleep... Tomorrow we will exit to the North Col for the purpose of acclimatization. And on May 9th we have planned a festive evening in the base camp where we would like to invite all 14 expeditions.

Day 19. 5th of May. The expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest 2017.

 First day of second acclimatization. The report from the height of 5800 meters. We will again rise to 5800, 6500 and then to 7000 meters. I reached Middle camp in 4:50.  On the way I spoke with many leaders of expeditions. 7^th of May there will be a meeting on the organization of the route, securing fixed ropes above 8300 meters and to the top. No one wants to do it. The Chinese took it upon themselves last 5 years. But they are always scolded that they do it late. And they don't want to take responsibility now. I also don't want to. And nobody wants that.

I think it is a simple money question. And the Chinese will do as in previous years, but for more money than usual. I can bet!

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the base camp:

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

It was the second and final rest day in BC.

On this day for everyone it was not recommended to wash and itch. So everyone just crowded in the Base camp. Cards, table tennis, billiards, TV, internet, beer, coffee well different conversations.

 The day today off,  and  it is good. Tomorrow, we exit to the Camp ABC (6400m) and then to the North Col. Probably there will be no connection for 4 nights. Please wait for more information on return.

Alex Abramov reporting from Everest!
Day 17th, May 3, 2017
7 Summits Club Everest Expedition 2017.
Legitimate and well deserved rest day.

We slept like rolled over with asphalt paver)). I didn't ever roll or move. Canceled the Wake Up Tea! And we moved the breakfast onto later. Yeah, and out of nowhere... tibetans has started really loud music in the kitchen at the sunrise, like they missed the nepali music soooo much!

I was rolling over and over for 15 minutes and then went on and let the dogs out.... all of them... saved for 10 days. Music has gotten down. It was the most pleasurable half and hour under the sun.
We got Vobla (Sun dried salted fish) for breakfast! Without bear((. Vobla gave us salt and reminded of Motherland!

After breakfast the Monк came by from Rongbuk monastery and we had Pudzha ceremony, blessing of the Camp..

We have a terrific team! After spending serious time in Lotus poster, we finally covered each other with Dzampa flour))

The whole team went down to each chinese noodles and get the blessings from the Monks and we together with Sergey Larin were left in Base Camp to clean and prepare the shower and the souls.

Rest day in not complete without relaxing drinks. The whole team relaxed completely by the end of the day. It's understandable, and it's a necessity, when you are deprived of heat, O2, and overloaded with various irritations... Complete article about that is here http://7summitsclub.com/
Later on the snowfall came down onto Base Camp. Surprise)) The one thing that really makes the difference is our coffeemaker, which unconditionally makes Cappuccinos and Lattes))

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from camp ABC: Day 16. May 2.

Expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest – 2017.

It rumbled all the night. All members slept poorly:  because the first night sleeping without oxygen or because the wind was really strong. Snow flew into tents, the frost was falling from the roof. It was impossible to sleep. Dream was sticky ...

This morning I woke up and saw the camp covered with snow. Snow flags on the clear summit of Everest complements the landscape. Today, no one will  go up, was the first thought.

And then the Chinese started: 35 clients and 45 Sherpas. The picture is not for the faint of heart. Some Chinese go so slow that doing about one step per 30 seconds. And then stand, breathe. You know what's even more amazing... they will reach the top.

And today we will run down. To warmth and to shower, to the food that is digested. To warm tent and more with the fact that in everyday life you are not considered luxury items.

The first stage of our Oxygen Acclimatization is completed. 6 nights, three of which we  slept with artificial oxygen, rising to a height of ABC – 6400 meters. I want to say that after this test the whole team feels healthy. Nobody coughs and complains about the respiratory system. It is very unusual for Himalayan expeditions. So we will consider the first stage of the expedition successful. Now we have three legitimate days and nights to rest in the base camp.

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from camp ABC: Day 16. May 2. Expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest – 2017.

 Morning in the camp ABC was beautiful, the wind is not strong, the sun. All night we were breathing artificial oxygen. All of the participants feel great! Cheerful and fun. All  are ready for new challenges. Celebrate  May Day  by best acclimatization! In the morning, the Sherpas brought tea and coffee in the tent. It was very useful, you can lie still for half an hour, take a nap in a solar-powered tent. 7:30 – Breakfast. 9:00 exit to acclimatize. We reached Crampon point in 55 minutes. The altitude of 6,500 meters. Our team looked much fresher other teams who came up here without  sleeping oxygen.

 Just as we descended to ABC, started  a blizzard, that had filled the whole camp with snow. But we have a good basic tent. No one from the others expedition. So we quietly played cards, having dinner-supper. We talked about life and discussed the plans, in warmth and comfort. All trails were filled with snow. But, thank God, we have planned for tomorrow only the descent to base camp. In warmth and comfort. To the shower in which we are not bathed from the time of departure from Kathmandu. It was necessary to avoid getting sick with pneumonia on high altitude.

 All, once again, happy May Day!

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the camp ABC:

Day 13. April 29.

 The expedition  of the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

Saying goodbye to accompanying the expedition three girls who really didn't want to leave, we went in Middle camp, 5800. There were to continue our ACCLIMATIZATION OXYGEN. Everything was going as usual and 6 hours under the scorching sun we got to our comfortable camp Middle camp. 5800м. After the "water chicken" soup, all climbers feel better. Even played with playing cards. However, winning those who have indicators of oxygen in the blood above. Before bed all persons put on oxygen at 0.5 liters per minute and forgotten the sweet sleep.

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the camp ABC:

Day 14. April 30.

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest 2017. It turns out that not all the participants breathed oxygen all night. Some of them economizeв oxygen and breathing just 3-4 hours. Moreover, in the morning, all climbers feel equally well. Even doubts began to arise in the need to breathe artificial oxygen in the night. But when we started moving up that those who spent the night breathing and recovered well, they were better than those who claimed that without oxygen they feel good. We came all the way from the Middle Camp to camp to ABC, it takes about 7 hours. Needless to say, it was not easy. But camp ABC immediately impressed everyone with its comfort. The main attraction - a big tent with a diameter of 8 meters, with a large transparent window with views of Everest. And equipped with heaters. Our camp is at the top of place, so yaks don't go near our camp. Tomorrow is May 1th Holiday, we will go to mention his drum lessons on the ice.

Alex Abramov,  leader of the expedition from base camp:

Day 12. 28 April. The expedition the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

The health state of members  is excellent. No one is sick. We attribute this to our Experiment the USE of OXYGEN DURING ACCLIMATIZATION.

All the participants were happy to take part in the first outing to the glacier with the use of crampons and fixed rope training.

This morning another 40 Yaks gone up, its carry oxygen and a lot of things  for the camp ABC (6400m) for the higher camps.

 Our world record holder Lhakpa Sherpa went up with the yaks caravan. She was already 7 times on the summit of Everest and this is an absolute record for women. Doctor Sergey Larin measured her pressure: 160/100. It seems a bit high.

But doctor Sergey said that all the Sherpas has  the high pressure and frenzied sexual activity.

 Tomorrow we are also going to leave up to 3 days. First, we will spend a night at Middle camp ( 5800м) and we will be there at night breathing artificial oxygen. Then, we will climb up to the camp ABC (6400m) and so we will use oxygen for  the first night. In the morning we will hold on-ice practice and the next night we plan not to use the oxygen for best acclimatization.

I'm afraid that the next 3 days we will have no connection... Although... we'll see.

Bye everyone!

Alexander Abramov, expedition leader:

Day 10. April 26 (evening).

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest 2017.

NEW OXYGEN POLICY OF ACCLIMATIZATION

Given the experience of last year, AND the EXPERIENCE of a 17-year-Himalayan expeditions of Alexander Abramov and doctor of  expeditions  Sergey Larin, we have developed a plan for "Soft Acclimatization in a short time."

This is a new feature of the 7 Summits Club on Everest. We  will sleep every time at a new altitude the first night with Oxygen. This is very unusual. No one does that. But, we believe that this helps to avoid sick the next morning. And the members of expedition will be more energetic and acclimatization will go more softer. Last year none of climbers who used this feature  did not get sick. I mean in the first days of acclimatization, the most critical.

And now we held classes for oxygen equipment and sleep with oxygen at the Base camp of Mount Everest. The altitude of 5100m.

And we do that when the first night we'll sleep in the Middle of Kemp 5800м and the first night at ABC 6400m.

For this purpose, we purchased enough additional oxygen.

This is a new word in acclimatization and we are ready to listen to criticism. Really don't promise to take it seriously. )))

Here is the list of climbers and trekkers:

 SUMMIT EVEREST

 Permit Everest

GREBNEVA Irina (33) Moscow

KOCHANSKI Janusz Mieczyslaw (53) Cracow, POL

TEBIEV Valery (46) Noginsk

AKKAEV Aznaur (44) Nalchik

BRIMAN Daniil (46) St.Peterburg

KRAVT Evgenii (42) Samara

SAVCHENKO Oleg (50) Moscow

STARIKOVSKIY Andrey (52) Plainsboro USA

SIDYAKIN Alexander (39) Moscow

Permit Base camp

GREBNEVA Anastasiia. Moscow

OSIPOVA Olga. Moscow

GUBINA Nadezda Moscow

Guides to Summit

ABRAMOV Alexander (53) Moscow

LARIN Sergei (57) Tver

Alexander Abramov, expedition leader: Day 10. April 26.

The expedition 7 Summits Club Everest 2017.

Today early  leaving Xegar, we went to Everest Base camp. On the way we stopped at a wonderful pass from which can be seen immediately 5 eight-thousanders. On that background we jumped. The base camp met us with good weather. And with our special soup (borsch) that are prepared by our Sherpas. They also prepared a cake and a plate of French cheese.

Tomorrow we will have an acclimatization day. We'll go near the camp. And now, in the evening, we held classes for oxygen equipment and  going to sleep with oxygen. This new feature of the 7 Summits Club. We will sleep every time at a new altitude the first night with oxygen.