Everest(8848) - Page 25

Today, all of our big expedition of the 7 Summits Club (and the 1st Russian women's expedition as a part)  arrived to the Base Camp of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5100.  

 Almost a week we went here. First, Kathmandu, checking gear, document, festive ceremony of the start of the expedition. Then we made the flight to Lhasa at the altitude of 3600 - we were in the capital of Tibet. Visit Potala - the Palace of the Dalai Lama. Moving higher and higher: Shigatse, Xegar (with acclimatization climb to 4700) and today finally arrive at our base camp. The camp is well equipped: individual tents for all members of the expedition, dining room, kitchen, internet club, a huge recreation tent with sports equipment. Well, a sauna, finally. But still, we know from experience, the first night at this altitude is not easy.

However, until now, all members feel  good. In the next couple of days we will be in the base camp to make radial trips to acclimatize.

April 18^th  a large team of members and guides of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club made an acclimatization ascent to the top near a small town in the district Xegar (New Tingri). During the ascent we made a lot of pictures, some of the photos, see the end of our posts. Or full ones here:

Gallery of Roman Reutov

 Gallery of Denis Provalov

BY THE WAY! During the movement of a group can be followed on-line via this link (thanks to Noel Hanna)

Yesterday, the main part of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club moved from the city of Shigatse in Xegar through the highest pass (5300m). At the same time, we continue to make short acclimatization outings and excursions to local attractions.

April 16^th the main part of the expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest moved from Lhasa (Tibet capital) in the largest city on the way to Everest - Schegatse. It is another 200 kilometers. Acclimatization continued, in particular in autotravel mode. Altitude presses, cool, a dull life, but it's useful to adapt ...

14.04. We started with the fact that before breakfast passed the luggage. Then we made a farewell photos from Kathmandu and went to the airport. Fly for about an hour. The plane was shaking terribly over the Himalayas. In Lhasa airport, we were impressed by the cleanliness and order. We lived in a comfortable hotel, fed a delicious lunch.

Here, the height of 2.5 kilometers higher than in Kathmandu, get used.

Next day, while the expedition leaders solve the problem with permissions, others commit sightseeing tour.

In a time when most Western companies have come to  Everest with  mini-expeditions, with 2-4 clients, Russian 7 Summits Club came with  22 clients and 4 guides! It is in terms of sanctions against our country and the uncertainty of the situation in Nepal and China!

11th of April. Kathmandu

April 12th in Kathmandu a big international mountaineering expedition on Mount Everest of the 7 Summits Club starts. Number of participants - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

1. Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.
2. Igor Demyanenko. Russia.
3. Janusz Kochanski. Poland.
4. Vladislav Moroz. Russia.
5. Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.
6. Liana Chabdarova. Russia.
7. Irena Kharazova. Russia.
8. Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.
9. Lay Kwai Chung. China.
10. Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

1. Denis Provalov. Russia.
2. Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

1. Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 ascents to the summit.
2. Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 ascents to the summit.
3. Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 ascents to the summit.
4. Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 ascents to the summit.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Lyudmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Group with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

1. Andrew Viktorson. Russia.
2. Nadejda Vosresenskaya. Russia.
3. Marina Gevorgyan. Russia.
4. Zbigniew Wolny. Poland.
5. Przemyslaw Simeon. Poland.
6. Maxim Shakirov. Russia.
7. Elena Abramova. Russia.

 A film crew of the RD studio with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

1. Christine Kozlova. Russia.
2. Alexander Kubasov. Russia.
3. Vladimir Kudinov. Russia.

During the expedition the group RD  studio will continue to shooting a film started last year for the main Russian television Channel One. Roman Reutov with help of experienced climber Maxim Shakirov continue to shoot the panoramic route of ascent for the Yandex company.

 The 1st Russian Women's Everest Expedition team will run independently of the other groups. Leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.

The team of the 7 Summits Club was invited to the gala evening, where the Prime Minister of Nepal honored the family of our Sirdar Mingma. They (he and two sisters) have three Guinness Recorda. In addition, Mingma  was eight times on Everest, and he is the first Sherpa on Mount Elbrus.

 The head of our expedition Alex Abramov was appointed to the company of champions and honorable citizens, who have made great contribution to the development of Nepal. And he said a good speech. We are proud of!

March 31th, the 7 Summits Club held a gala evening dedicated to the beginning of the Everest expedition. Vice-president of the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia (FAR) Ivan Dusharin said parting word to members of the 1st Russian expedition on Everest. He reminded that the expedition is officially supported by the federation and included in the calendar of events of FAR.  He  gave  members of expedition little flags for hoisting to the summit.

President of the Moscow Federation of Mountaineering Alexei Slotyuk gave them one, but a big flag for the entry to the top.

The next day, the famous traveler and the priest Fedor Konyukhov blessed the team in his chapel in the center of Moscow.

Press release of the "1st Russian Women's Everest Expedition"

Dates: from April 12^th  to May 31th, 2016.

Organizer: 7 Summits Club.

The film crew of Channel One studio RD Valdis Pelsh will take part in the expedition and to continue filming that started last year.

The expedition is supported by the Russian Mountaineering Federation, the Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing in Moscow and Red Fox company.

Information about the project and participating:

Seven women from Russia are taking part in the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition in 2016. This has never been and probably never will. The project turns out unique.

Members:

1. Liana Chabdarova - made 6 of 7 summits of the World and all the 7 volcanoes. She pretend to be  the first Balkar (Elbrus region)  woman climbed Mount Everest.

2. Irena Kharazova - climber on 5 of the 7 summits.

3. Marina Gevorkyan - media manager, general director of "Snob" project and an experienced climber, will attempt to climb the North Col (7000 m).

4. Nadezhda Voskresenskaya - more than 10 years in mountais, will attempt to climb the North Col of Everest (7000m).

5. Christina Kozlova - Director and producer of the film crew.

       Director-producer, executive producer at RD Studio.

6. Elena Abramova - the daughter of Alexander Abramov will attempt to climb the North Col of Everest (7000m)

7. Ludmila Korobeshko - two-times Everest summiter, two-times Seven Summits

Alex Abramov - expedition leader

Sherpas Team

On Friday, 1th April, a large group of members of the expedition 7 Summits Club Everest-2016 and their sympathizers came to visit our friend, great traveler and a great man Fyodor Konyukhov. They came for a blessing. And they got it. The action takes place in the Church of St. Nicholas in the Lower Sadovniki, the so-called house-museum of Konyukhov. Or, in other words, "a chapel in memory of the dead sailors and travelers" at the art workshop of Konyukhov. All participants are very impressed with what happened, from visiting unique places, to communicate with a tireless worker, an artist and a good man Father Fyodor.

March 31th  the 7 Summits Club held a traditional evening dedicated to the traditional spring event - the departure of the expedition to Everest. Traditionally, there were many people with different ages, experience and wealth. Traditionally, half of them listened to, and the other half talking to each other "in couloirs" (not in the mountain!). Traditionally, almost all left with regret,  and traditionally we did not have enough time to make the scheduled. In short, this is what we call a success of the evening!

At first (unplanned) audience watched film "Messner". Then Alex Abramov, the head of all, including the Everest 2016 expedition opened the festive evening.

Alexander Abramov. Opening the evening. Few words.

History.  Everest 2003-2005. Difficult experience and triumph of Sergei Larin (alone on the summit 50 years after Hillary and Tenzing)

Drama of 2006, and the success of 2007 - Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Abramov - Presentation of the Women's Team Everest. And the male part of.

Delivery of symbols. Ivan Dusharin from the Russian Mountaineering Federation

Delivery of symbols. Alexey  Slotyuk from Federation of mountaineering and rock-climbing of Moscow.

Alexander Yelkov: women on Everest (historical review)

Greetings veterans:

Nicholay Cherny

Vladimir Shataev

Yuri Tinin

Songs. Oleg Banar

Everest in 2012 and the program Alpari on top of the world. Ivan Dusharin

Everest 2014 Natalia Matusow. On a perfect team.

You could buy paintings of climbers Oleg Fedorov and Bogdan Sadowski

Our soponsor: Thule

Gala evening of the 7 Summits Club, dedicated to the departure of the expedition "Everest - 2016"

 The 7 Summits Club invites all March 31 (Thursday), beginning at 20.00

 Since 2003, we have organized 12 expeditions to Everest, and this year it will be a 14th expedition. All were led by Alex Abramov. This year we have 26 members.

On this evening:

- We remember all our Everest expedition, from 2003 to 2015;

- Participants of those expeditions themselves will talk about;

- We present the team of Everest in 2016;

- We present the 1st Russian women's expedition to Mount Everest;

- We listen songs, play a lottery, chat with friends etc...

Address: Moscow, Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya, 7

Metro Prospekt Mira

In early April our next Everest expedition will  start, as usual led by Alexander Abramov. We return to the highest mountain in the world, the most desired climbing object after the terrible disaster, earthquake, 2015. In some ways, this season will be unusual, something familiar. Our team will be the largest on the northern slopes, we traditionally put most comfortable, beautiful camp, we will do everything to succeed.

  You will learn details of the expedition from the head, six-time climber on Everest Alexander Abramov. He will present the team, tell about the features of the current season. That, for the first time as part of our big event will be run purely female team led by Lyudmila Korobeshko. And also we will be able to communicate with the crew RD studio of Valdis Pelsh, which will continue its work on the filming of the movie for the First Russian TV Channel.

Address: Bol Pereyaslavskaya d. 7 Shop "Active Life".

March 31 ... Beginning at 20.00

And also you will be able to listen to reports on the climbing season 2015-2016 in the Southern Hemisphere. Our guides will talk about climbing in Antarctica, South America, Australia and Africa. We will introduce you to new projects, new programs coming summer season in the northern hemisphere. Come, you will find the atmosphere of companionship and a small treat from the 7 Summits Club.

March 16th, 2016  the board of Russian Mountaineering Federation formally endorsed the first women expedition to Everest from Russia.

This year's 7 women from Russia take part in the Everest expedition, and first time in the history. And probably  it never will be later. So the project turns out unique.

Dates of the expedition:  from April 12^th  to May 31th, 2016.

RMF Board Meeting

Project Organizer - 7 Summits Club, with the support of RMF, FAiS Moscow, Red Fox company.

The expedition will be filmed film by a crew of Channel One, namely by  RD studio of Valdis Pelsh

Project Manager - Lyudmila Korobeshko - 2-times Mount Everest summiter.

 Team's coach Alexander Abramov, the leader of expedition - 6-times Mount Everest summiter.

Alex and Luda:  the couple of recordsmen. The only family in the world, in which husband and wife twice fulfilled the program "Seven Summits". The only couple twice climbed to the top of Mount Everest together.

All Team members will be announced on March 31th  at the annual meeting (party) of the members of the  7 Summits Club.

October 29 (Thursday), beginning at 19.00. Next Thursday we will start a course of theoretical training on mountaineering. The first will be six time Everest summiter Alexander Abramov.

"How to climb Mount Everest." Beginning at 19.00
Address: Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya 7.

Alexander (Alex) Abramov has organized 17 Himalayan expeditions, 12 - on Everest.

We were treated by the ordinary people who never go to the mountains, to help them to climb Everest. And now, after the Hollywood film, it has become a common issue: could untrained novice climb the top of the World? Although the answer is obvious to us, but it requires clarification ....

Alexander Abramov believes that the top of Everest is available to any healthy person!
Everest is the scene of specific mountaineering, and now it may be reached by climbers of different levels of training.

Time - October 15 - Thursday 20.00

Location - Moscow, Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya d.7 (Shop "Active Life") m. Prospect Mira

By leading Russian climbers and direct participants of the events

In the Programme:
- The main guest of the evening - "Mr. Everest"
- Project 7 Volcanoes
- Mountain School of 7 Summits Club
- Climbing Mount Everest in Business

And:
- Crimea is Yours
- Alaska is still Ours
- How to climb the Matterhorn

And:
- Summing up 2015
- Awarding of the winners - climbers
- New projects and new plans to capture the mountains

The film is based on real events on the Everest expedition in 1996. About this tragedy has been written a lot. I think almost all person related to mountaineering read a book of Krakauer or Bukreev, partially representing the two different points of view. And it was interesting how it will be present the events of those long years.

In Russia as for whole World, the official premiere is scheduled for September 24.

Now, there were screenings for the press, private screenings for experts in climbing ...
So yesterday evening there was an event organized by the Mountaineering Federation of Russia special for climbers before the premiere of the film, and the presentation of a new book by Ivan Dusharin "Stalkers of highlands."

Ivan Dusharin as always been smart, cheerful and happy, signed autographs and took pictures.
We barely managed to distract him for a photo session.
And here we are - mountain guides related to Everest, if not direct, then to commercial mountaineering. Four of the seven – many times climbed Mount Everest. While we were with Dennis, and Artem not spoiled the statistics, we counted 11 Everest climbs for four.

And now about the film ...

Heavy film. It's not entertaining humorous "Vertical Limit", not the usual Hollywood action.

Yes, there were certainly hacks. Not going to climb to eight thousand for half an hour. For half an hour that only for shoes lace does. Yes, there are some inaccuracies in gear and clothing. But the general that does not change the main.

In the film, there is no good and bad persons, there are no heroes and villains. There are the organizers of commercial climbing Everest, guides, Sherpas, the clients and the mountain, which does not care about all these human ambitions.

The film does not answer the question "Why". Rather, as the options are three different answers from the participants of expeditions: because there is a project of the 7 Summits, and it remained as the last; because at home it's not nice, but here is a happiness; because one realizing his dream you could inspire children in a small town ...

I think all this is nothing and explains nothing.

The film simply shows how it all happens. The streets of Kathmandu, mountain slopes, narrow hanging bridges - we have all seen it, the way it is. It shows how Buddhist flags fluttering in the wind; How is the snow; as people move jumars along the rope barely moving the legs. How to crawl to the top; how guides sign his own death warrant, choosing between what they must do and the desire to bring the person to the top. How does a man become a rag doll, unable to take a step; those who were at the bottom, understand everything, but can not do anything; and how, in the end, to die: at one point making a wrong move or slow freezing ...

It shows all the way as it is.

The company 7 Summits Club, where I work - one of the few in the world that has for decades organized annually commercial ascents of Everest.
Over the years I have seen a lot of things. People who have never been in the mountains, in two or three years carried out their dream to climb Everest. Adventurers who have asked to take them on an expedition without any experience. And this annual tension in the two days of climbing: how is it? did it? no? went down? what is the prognosis?

And there were those who died during the climb. And those who were miraculously saved. And the guides who did everything that people were on the top. And the same situation when climbing continued despite the fact that all the possible time limits have been exhausted.

This film is about us. About what all this could turn. Yes, normal companies are now much more seriously organize the expedition. More guides, sherpas, enough oxygen, fixed ropes. But the man - only a small dot on the mountain ... It is only here, on the plain, all of us - the universe. And there, on Everest - a speck of dust. The wind blew, and there was no man ...

Of course, it will be interesting to know opinions of people that are far from the mountains, after watching this movie.
On the evening there were mostly mountaineers. And if in the beginning, everyone was cheerful and animated, after watching they left the hall in silence and a bit depressed.

And I ... I had a strong desire for the next call, "Hello, I want to go to Everest" answer: "What? You are crazy? Do not go there ..."

ROMAN REUTOV: It’s not a secret that this spring, we have organized an expedition to mount Everest from the North side, in conjunction with «7 Summits Club», «RD Studio», «RedFox» and «Yandex». The expedition was stopped in the middle, due to an earthquake magnitude of 8 – We were lucky that nobody from our Expedition was hurt. We were forced to evacuate. Despite this, we managed to create a panorama of a 19km route on the way from Base Camp (5100m) to Advanced Base Camp (6500m).
For the First Time everybody can pass this scenic mountainous route without exposing themselves to any danger.
Panoramas are published in advance of the film "Everest" coming out in cinemas on 24 September 2015.

A special page dedicated to panoramas is located at – http://yandex.ru/promo/everest.

Panoramas themselves you can easily find using this link – http://maps.yandex.ru/-/CVgTfJ3G.

Special blog link - http://blog.yandex.ru/post/98038/

Alexey Ovchinnikov wrote on Facebook: "The screening film "Everest" for a hall full of the press was a great success. In the end - there were deserved applause for Trofimich (Dusharin), Sania Abramov and Vladimir Nikolaevich Shataev. And, the Universal responded to our request and included in the final credits a large photo Bukreeva description of his achievement.

My personal assessment of the film - a solid four. Good movie, looks with interest, unusual for Hollywood open final with no happy ending. Climbing life is shown authentically, without gross distortion.

Russian Mountaineering Federation September 17 (Thursday) organizes mountaineering evening.
Location - Moscow, Novy Arbat, 24, a cinema "October", the beginning - 19.00

The evening program:
- Meeting friends
- Presentation of the book "Stalkers highlands" and autograph session Ivan Trofimovich Dusharin
- Pre-screening of the film "Everest" (IMAX).

Tickets for film session - 500 rubles.

Collected at the party funds will be used to help the families of the dead climbers.
Number of seats in the theater is limited.
Pre-registration and booking tickets - alpfederation@gmail.com
We are grateful to Universal Pictures for the opportunity.
The official website of the film - www.everestmovie.com

Partners in the evening:
RED FOX
VENTO
GORE-TEX
7 Summits
CLUB LEADERS
HIGH MOUNTAIN SCHOOL

As many already know, because of the earthquake in Nepal, Everest this season has been closed. Our expedition had to abandon the climb and the film crew to interrupt the work on the film. Mountaineers have belief in this respect: Everest rarely let climb for the first time ...

But we are pleased to inform you that, despite all the difficulties, we will return to Everest next spring. And in the autumn of 2016, our film about the conquest of the highest mountain in the world will be screening on Channel! Russian TV…
And while see the trailer from already made footage.