Everest(8848) - Page 30
XVI Moscow International Festival of Mountaineering and Adventure Films Vertical
Everest.
XVI Moscow International Festival of Mountaineering and Adventure Films Vertical will take place in Moscow, Russia, 26-27 of April 2013. The aim of the Festival is to present international production of mountaineering and adventure films ...
XVI Moscow International Festival of Mountaineering and Adventure Films Vertical will take place in Moscow, Russia, 26-27 of April 2013. The aim of the Festival is to present international production of mountaineering and adventure films and to encourage development in this branch of film making.
Expedition Everest: an international billiards tournament at an altitude of 5200 meters
Today, the day of rest, we had a competition in billiards. This is probably a world record on the height of billiards tournament. Participants (all members of Everest climb). Russia: Sergei Dudko,Dmitry Krasnov,Sasha Apalko,Sergey ...
Today, the day of rest, we had a competition in billiards. This is probably a world record on the height of billiards tournament.
Participants (all members of Everest climb).
Russia:
Sergei Dudko,
Dmitry Krasnov,
Sasha Apalko,
Sergey Ponomarev,
Vladimir Rychenko,
Vitali Simonovich.
Kazakhstan:
Yaroslav Sabirbaev.
Ukraine:
Konstantin Morozov.
Poland:
Zigmund Berdychovski (failure to appear at the start).
US-Russia-Azerbaijan
Murad Ashurly (failure to appear at the start)
Head Judge:
Catherine Pozdeyeva.
Main organizer:
Alex Abramov.
Result:
First place - victory went to Yaroslav Sabirbaev ofKazakhstan.
Second place - Sergey Ponomarev -Russia.
Third place - Konstantin Morozov -Ukraine.
Small Bronze (4th) Sasha Apalko.
Everybody is happy and participants and spectators.
Tomorrow we will start for great things, spending the first night at 5800m and .... birthday of Vitalik Simonovich!
The first record of the Everest expedition of 7 Summits Club: billiards at an altitude of 5100 meters
Alexander Abramov: Today - the second day, as our team is to base camp. Initially, in the morning all members went down to the Old Rongbuk Monastery. And then all together we started for an installation of billiards. Yes, billiards. We have ...
Alexander Abramov: Today - the second day, as our team is to base camp. Initially, in the morning all members went down to the Old Rongbuk Monastery. And then all together we started for an installation of billiards. Yes, billiards.
We have a large tent, which we call the "Sports". There is a table tennis table inside it. And now the table for billlierds. We hauled slabs of marble. 3 plates - each up to 150 kg. Then pulled the cloth.
In general, everyone is happy with the result.
This is probably the first pool table at an altitude above 5000m.
The first played were the guides: Sergei Larin and Noel Hanna.
The deal is done: now we can think about the mountains.
Alex and his favorite motorcycle
Murad Ashurly is hungry after a walk
In our dining room we eat a traditional borshch (beetroot and cabbage soup a Russian - Ukrainian dish)
Billiards epic story
Night came to BC
Photonews from 7 Summits Club Everest expedition
Two parts of our expedition met before starting to the final part of route to the base camp. But their bus was suddenly broken. Members end guides were trying to push it. We are here ! Everest and his brothers or ...
Two parts of our expedition met before starting to the final part of route to the base camp. But their bus was suddenly broken. Members end guides were trying to push it.
We are here ! Everest and his brothers or Quomolungma and her sisters.
Two separate group of our expediton goes to Everest base camp
One group (main) under leadership of Alex Abramov started from Lhasa. The second group with Noel Hanna (guides and sherpas) goes with a baggage via Nialam and Jangmu.
One group (main) under leadership of Alex Abramov started from Lhasa. The second group with Noel Hanna (guides and sherpas) goes with a baggage via Nialam and Jangmu.
The main part of the Everest expedition came to Lhasa
Thank you Nepal. We had busy days and wonderful evenings, we had fun in our beloved Kathmandu. But now we are landed in the capital of Tibet, at a new altitude. The journey to Everest begins. Photos of Denis Provalov ...
Thank you Nepal. We had busy days and wonderful evenings, we had fun in our beloved Kathmandu. But now we are landed in the capital of Tibet, at a new altitude. The journey to Everest begins.
Photos of Denis Provalov
Arrival of the expedition and the first day
Everest.
In the airport. for the beginning of a briefing. A speech of Alex. General and official photo: 31 members and guides. Dinner in the Royal Palace Alex with employees of the Russian ...
In the airport.
for the beginning of a briefing.
A speech of Alex.
General and official photo: 31 members and guides.
Dinner in the Royal Palace
Alex with employees of the Russian Embassy in Nepal
The first victim of Everest....
Everest.
KATHMANDU: An “icefall doctor” has died after falling into a crevasse in Mount Everest on Sunday, the Annapurna Post reported. Mingmar Sherpa (45) who died after a fatal fall while returning from Camp 2 was one of the six ...
KATHMANDU: An “icefall doctor” has died after falling into a crevasse in Mount Everest on Sunday, the Annapurna Post reported.
Mingmar Sherpa (45) who died after a fatal fall while returning from Camp 2 was one of the six icefall doctors assigned to set and maintain the safest path in the world’s highest peak for this season.
They were returning to Camp 1 after laying down a series of ladders across the crevasses yesterday. The site is said to be 200 metres away from the Camp 1.
According to Captain Siddhartha Gurung of Simrik Air, who was involved in the rescue operation, five others in the group are safe.
Sherpas who maintain the safest path in the mountains for other climbers are regarded as icefall doctors.
The deceased hailed from Goratapting of Solukhumbu and was currently residing in Dingboche of the district. He was into the profession for nine years and was regarded as an experience icefall doctor.
He is survived by his wife and a son.
Captain Gurung informed that Sherpa’s body could not be lifted from the incident site due to unfavourable weather conditions.
Due to bad weather we forced to stay over in Febiche today, he told the Annapurna Post, “We will head to the site tomorrow morning (Monday) along with a team of experts for the rescue operation.”
Mountaineers are heading to the Everest base camp for the upcoming climbing season.
www.thehimalayantimes.com
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As the border with China was open we sent a first track to the base camp
Our Guides arrived in Kathmandu, and there - a strike
Everest.
On Sunday in Nepal there is a general strike. The strike almost paralyzed the country's life. Maoists so begin preparation for the general elections to the constituent assembly of the country. Meanwhile, we need to work. In Kathmandu, all ...
On Sunday in Nepal there is a general strike. The strike almost paralyzed the country's life. Maoists so begin preparation for the general elections to the constituent assembly of the country.
Meanwhile, we need to work. In Kathmandu, all expedition guides arrived: Sergei Larin, Denis Provalov and Noel Hanna. Preparation enters on the final stage.
Leila will take on Everest a flag of Olympic Games in Sochi
Everest.
Leila Albogachieva from Ingushetia last year climbedMount Everestin the expedition of 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. This year, she decided to try to climb a different route - from the south. 7 Summits-adventure ...
Leila Albogachieva from Ingushetia last year climbedMount Everestin the expedition of 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. This year, she decided to try to climb a different route - from the south. 7 Summits-adventure Co has been organizing this climb.
Leila Albogachieva brought with flag Olympics in Sochi, which she was given in the Olympic Committee in Moscow with a request to place it on the summit of Everest. Russian Ambassador to Nepal Sergey Velichkin received a delegation of 7 Summits Club …
In the airport Leila was met by Alex and Mayla, her partner from last year expedition
Alex came to Katmandu
Everest.
Alex was met by our Nepal chief Mingma (7 Summits Adventure Co) and his friends Nima and Pemba. This will be the 10th in a row, that is, the jubilee expedition, it will join a record number of participants. 27 clients and 5 guides ...
Alex was met by our Nepal chief Mingma (7 Summits Adventure Co) and his friends Nima and Pemba.
This will be the 10th in a row, that is, the jubilee expedition, it will join a record number of participants. 27 clients and 5 guides will be at the base camp at Rongbuk Glacier. Our subsidiary 7 Summits Adventure Co has been involved in the preparation of the season.
In the expedition of 7 Summits Club 13 members will climb with permits for the summit of Everest, 4 guides will work with them, 7 pax have permits for Changtse, 2 – for North Col (1 guide), 6 persons have the right to go up to camp ABC.
Besides the main ascent, Alexander Abramov plans to re-try a new route: traverse Changtse - Everest.
James Wilde: MOVING MOUNTAINS, a book about seven summits and Global H2O
Everest.
MOVING MOUNTAINS: How the dream to climb the seven summits transformed in the charity Global H2O According to his publisher's site, Outskirts Press, the summary is as follows: Publication Date: February 12, 2013 Number of pages: 410 MOVING ...
MOVING MOUNTAINS: How the dream to climb the seven summits transformed in the charity Global H2O
According to his publisher's site, Outskirts Press, the summary is as follows:
Publication Date: February 12, 2013 Number of pages: 410
MOVING MOUNTAINS "The story of how my dream to climb the seven continental summits transformed into providing clean drinking water to the people of northernUganda. In 2010, I set out to climb Everest from the north side and to complete the seven summits (climbing to the summit of the highest peak on every continent). During my training in theHimalaya, I discovered the water crisis and it changed me. It was then in 2009 when I fell ill with dysentery onCho Oyu, forcing me to turn back on my attempt to reach the 6th highest peak on the planet. During the time I was sick, I encountered what most people without clean water experience on a regular basis. Upon my return home toMunich, I dedicated my climb of Everest to the water crisis and founded a 501(c)3 entity in theUSA. I focused an entire year of my life on reaching the highest point on the planet and creating an all-volunteer organization with the goal to provide clean drinking water to the people in northernUganda. What was originally a personal goal became a quest to deliver clean drinking water to the thirsty millions in war-stricken northernUganda. Through this story, the charity, Global H2O, was born." http://outskirtspress.com/moving_mountains/
James DeWitt Wilde V (born September 24, 1970) is an American sportsman, explorer and philanthropist living inMunich,Germany. On October 19, 2010, Wilde climbed Kosciuzsko inAustralia, completing his quest to climb the seven summits, becoming number 216 on the all-time Kosciuszko list.
Currently, James is working on the restructuring project of a major telecommunications operator inAngola, originally as the Head of the Finance Team and now the Executive Director of Strategy.
Apart from his native language, English, James speaks German, Portuguese, French and Russian. James has an MBA in International Business and Finance and Bachelor degrees in Journalism/Marketing as well as Business Administration.
James founded the charity Global H2O in 2009, helping to establish a means to bringing clean drinking water and developmental progress to theNorthern provincesof worn tornUganda. Since its inception, James has worked tirelessly to help the needy in his free time and most notably has completed the book, MOVING MOUNTAINS, documenting this amazing journey.
Wilde's seven summits
Aconcagua, 12/01/2006
Elbrus, 30/04/2003
Everest, 23/05/2010
Kilimanjaro, 04/11/2002
Kosciuszko, 19/10/2010
McKinley, 02/07/2004
Vinson, 02/01/2009
On Everest
Jim has participated in two expeditions 7 Summits Club on Everest. In the first one, in 2005, he could not reach the top. But he got a lot of Russian friends and a new name - "Dikiy", which appeared only as a translation of his surname. Then, in a warm international company of 7 Summits Club, headed by Lyudmila Korobeshko and Sergey Kofanov, Jim met new 2009 inAntarctica. Then he climbed to the top of the Mount of Vinson. And in 2010, he managed to make the main dream - to climb Everest. It happened on May 23, in the company of Noel Hanna, Steve Berry, Mikhail Turovsky, Andrey Filkov, Sirdar Mingma and four other Sherpas.
Everest expedition 2010
Site of James
Global H2O
!
http://www.facebook.com/GlobalH2O.org
7 Summits Adventure Company is preparing for the start of new season, for our giant expedition on Everest
In two days Alexander Abramov will fly to Nepal to Kathmandu to do on-site preparation for the great expedition of 7 Summits Club on Everest. This will be the 10th in a row, that is, the jubilee expedition, it will join a record number of ...
In two days Alexander Abramov will fly to Nepal to Kathmandu to do on-site preparation for the great expedition of 7 Summits Club on Everest. This will be the 10th in a row, that is, the jubilee expedition, it will join a record number of participants. 27 clients and 5 guides will be at the base camp at Rongbuk Glacier. Our subsidiary 7 Summits Adventure Co has been involved in the preparation of the season.
In the expedition of 7 Summits Club 13 members will climb with permits for the summit of Everest, 4 guides will work with them, 7 pax have permits for Changtse, 2 – for North Col (1 guide), 6 persons have the right to go up to camp ABC.
Besides the main ascent, Alexander Abramov plans to re-try a new route: traverse Changtse - Everest.
Generally 7 Summits Club sends toNepalthree large groups: forIslandPeak, for MeruPeakand for the classic trekking to Everest base camp.
7 Summits from Google Maps
Kilimanjaro.
Google has been doing a lot to make Google Maps more about exploring the world, including places few will ever be able to see with their own eyes. Today, the company announced that it has added more locations to Maps, including Street ...
Google has been doing a lot to make Google Maps more about exploring the world, including places few will ever be able to see with their own eyes. Today, the company announced that it has added more locations to Maps, including Street View-style access to some of the highest peaks in the world.
Via the official Google Blog, the company revealed the introduction of new Street View features for some of Earth’s most celebrated mountains, including Everest, Mount Elbrus, Aconcagua and Kilimanjaro. They belong to the famous Seven Summits, an elite collection of the highest mountains on each continent. You don’t even have to acclimatize to high altitudes to check out these locations on Google Maps.
There’s a lot of detail in the virtual tours you can take of these peaks, including images of base camps set up by actual explorers. Google set out with a fisheye lens and lightweight tripod to capture the images, and will be detailing the whole expedition in a Google+ Hangout which is set to kick off at 10 AM PT today.
Google has been doing a lot to build out some amazing views of the more remote corners of the world, including its recent introduction of Street View tours of the Grand Canyon, Antarctica and other far-flung locations. Google’s remote tourism is actually an incredibly cool way to attract eyeballs to the Maps product, while helping the company build out an even more comprehensive database than it already has.
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Aconcagua. Summit
Everest. Base camp
Kilimanjaro. Shira camp
http://maps.google.com/intl/en/help/maps/streetview/gallery/the-worlds-highest-peaks/shira-camp.html
Elbrus. Barrels Refufe
http://maps.google.com/intl/en/help/maps/streetview/gallery/the-worlds-highest-peaks/shira-camp.html
Your day job, not to mention fitness level, will probably keep you from ever ascending the mightiest peaks on Earth. Don’t worry. Google’s done the hard work for you and released the stunning panoramic images needed to make you feel like you’re on top of the world.
Google, which seems determined to map every square inch of the planet, on Monday released Street View images from four of the seven tallest mountains on earth. One lucky engineer, who happens to be a passionate mountaineer, led the Google Mountain Enthusiast team during a project that was strictly a labor of love for all involved.
“There’s a social benefit to using these tools to tell the story in these environments. A chance to really connect to whats on the ground with a rich imagery so they can see what it looks like and feels like to be there,” says Dan Fredinburg, who is a technical program manager for security and privacy when he isn’t scaling summits.
Fredinburg’s teams — which included four to seven people, depending upon the trip — used a lightweight tripod and digital camera with a fisheye lens to visually map Aconcagua in Argentina (22,841 feet), Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania (19,341 Feet), Mount Elbrus in Russia (18,510 feet) and Everest South Base Camp in Nepal (17,598 feet). It’s the same setup the Street View team uses for the Business Photos program. They opted to use that rig instead of the 40-pound, 75-megapixel Google Trekker backpack.
“When you’re going expeditions in the alpine style environment, every gram, every ounce, every pound counts,” Fredinburg says.
Fredinburg says Google has been very receptive and supportive of his blending together work and play. Beyond slaking his thirst for adventure, the excursions — made over the course of 18 months — helped make Street View more accurate, vivid and useful for his fellow adventurers, as well as those happy to explore Earth from the comfort of home.
His passion for climbing almost got the better of him while climbing Everest. He really, really wanted to go all the way to the top, but the team arrived just before the summit window in October.
“It was only planned to go to the basecamp,” says Fredinburg. “I did try to convince my guides to take me further up. I was very excited when I got to basecamp.”
His enthusiasm led to an awkward conversation with the guides, who refused to take him any higher than base camp. He pressed the issue, and offered to pay them for their trouble. Still, they refused. It eventually dawned on him that perhaps it was too risky. So he asked about the odds of dying.
“Certain,” came the response. “100 percent.”
Dan Fredinburg on Elbrus
Vladimir Shataev on the 7 Summits Club meeting
South Pole.
Vladimir Shataev: secrets of the mastery of the legendary climber. The legendary mountaineer domestic Vladimir Shataev came Received Yoki.ru personally than not a little surprised. It's no joke, our guest this "Snow Leopard". The idea is we ...
Vladimir Shataev: secrets of the mastery of the legendary climber.
The legendary mountaineer domestic Vladimir Shataev came Received Yoki.ru personally than not a little surprised. It's no joke, our guest this "Snow Leopard". The idea is we must have to go to him at the meeting, armed with a tape recorder and camera. However, Vladimir Nikolayevich, a modest man, democratic, open and "star does not suffer from the disease." Conversely, a lively interest in what is happening and willingly share their experiences, memories and experiences.
Vladimir Nikolayevich, we know that your "mountain" experience includes 46 years of almost continuous practice. And how you came to climbing?
When I was 15 years old, I lived with my aunt in Kislovodsk and every day saw Elbrus. Of course - this spectacle thrilled boyish imagination, I found a partner and we both went to the foot of the mountain. Imagine that we had nothing with him except the blankets. When three years ago, I traveled by car to the places he himself was surprised. It is unclear how we as children were 70 kilometers without equipment. But the fact remains that at the breaking point we reached the glacier, though it nearly killed crossing a river. When we returned back, I'm his friend said that up to 25 years of age must climb Elbrus.
After this incident, I was seriously interested in rock climbing , began to study books. Realizing how difficult and dangerous this sport. By the time I was seriously engaged in athletics came in "Spartacus" and got a ticket to the base in the Caucasus. As a result, in 1922 I already had two climb Elbrus . And then have dragged on, eventually I became an instructor.
As you consider how much of modern Russian youth is interested in climbing?
Judge for yourself in the Soviet Union officially climbing involved 35,000 people. Today, such statistics are not, in my estimation are constantly traveling to the mountains around 5,000 climbers. And - this is a high-level athletes who are on the shoulder 6A level and above. In fact - they are elite.
But, unfortunately, they have about 40 years. That is, those who came to climbing back in the old days. Young people too. The last two or three years, the interest appears to be enhanced. Moreover, that the different committees allocate funds for the development of mountain sport. Therefore znachkisty and dischargers have the opportunity to travel to the mountains.
True, climbing still can not now be called a mass sport. The main problem is that actually stayed bases. Only in the Caucasus remained the camp. For young people had all been available, voucher worth 30 rubles. And now the system is completely destroyed, it is not restored.
However, for example, in Moscow there are about 20 clubs, where you can practice and mountaineering and climbing.
By the way, what is the difference between rock climbing and mountaineering?
Paradoxical. But those who engaged in rock climbing, mostly rocks themselves do not even see. Previously, indeed often the competitions among the climbers, athletes climbed to the natural topography. And now everything is being done in the halls, on the artificial surface.
Climbers imagine this can not. They need the mountains, a real relief, and nature. In addition, climbing expensive, because the necessary equipment. The same backpack, ice pick, crampons, all worth serious money.
p align = "justify"> climbing all over the world called sport climbing. In some countries, like France, it is taught as a separate discipline. Indeed, children like to climb, why not develop and does not pay for the benefit of the child.
Vladimir Nikolaevich, saying that you have conquered all "seventhousanders?
I have a 113 number in the "Snow Leopard" (laughs)
("Snow Leopard" - is official and an extremely rare title in mountaineering. For him the assignment it was necessary to conquer the all seventhousanders the former Soviet Union: Communism peak, Lenin, Victory Korjenevskaya. Then he added another of Khan-Tengri).
And outside the Soviet Union, where were you?
I was at eight-two.: Shisha Pangma and Everest. Also, I involuntarily participated in the program climb to the highest point of the continents: Everest in Asia, Elbrus in Europe, McKinley in North America, Aconcagua in South America, Kilimanjaro in Africa, Kosciusko in Australia and Vinson in Antarctica. Of these I have left to conquer only Vinson, though hard to get to Antarctica, this requires 30 thousand dollars.
Interestingly, the man leads in the mountains? "What kind of feelings he feels, being on top?
Some special feelings on the top of the conquered rarely feel. Usually not before. Although, if itineraries lighter lucky with the weather and see from the height of all this beauty, it certainly touches the heart. It would be desirable for an hour or half to stay there and watch. This gives a charge of vivacity that his missing almost a year.
Why do people go to the mountains ... all individually. One way to overcome this yourself, others want to demonstrate their power, others seek escape from the routine and bytovuhi that surrounds it. Fourth, for example, in the mountains can guide the groups, but in life to be ordinary clerical and invisible people. In the mountains, it changes, it is the head, depends on him a lot, almost every step. Not by accident earlier among climbers had a lot of physicists, chemists, scientists. People dumb distant from real life. Those who took a mountaineering school, many life situations are more easily overcome. Indeed, in the mountains, they face challenges that require a momentary solution: have the tent set and the food is cooking, and washing, and negotiate with the drivers of cars.
Sounds in the mountains ... What are they?
Silence. Than the quieter the better. I remember one of the most wonderful moments when we go on-Shisha Pangma. I left the base camp along a small mountain stream in which trout splashing and just two o'clock sat in that silence.
You meet a strange? Yeti, for example.
There are also strange, and luck, which then settle in mountaineering folklore. And that's not Bigfoot , or UFOs are not met.
Extreme situations are? After all, the group may consist of climbers to the preparation of various levels ..
Extreme sports in the mountains - it is a natural situation. Any bad weather, storm, already fraught with troubles. Security depends on the manager. Sometimes "gornyashka" (mountain sickness) is such that people have to bear. From lack of oxygen a person can be either a lack of energy, apathy or irritability.We had a case where people just sat down and decided not to go any further, I had to take his backpack and get to follow her footsteps. It is true, then he crossed himself and walked to the summit - 6100
And what more difficult to climb or descend?
Fifty-fifty, although some believe that to go down harder.
What's in your future plans?
Just a few days we will travel to Turkey on Ararat . This will be My sixth ascent of the famous mountain.
On this expedition Yoki.ru tell our readers a later date.
Vladimir Shataev:
Born May 1, 1937
Awarded:
The medal "For Labour Valour - 10/05/1972 city (¹ 165197);
The Order of Honour - 01/09/1990 city (¹ 1524514);
Medal "Veteran of Labour" - 5/22/1985 city;
Medal "For the glory of Ossetia" - June 1995;
Commander of the Order "Edelweiss", 1 st degree (¹ 09);
Anniversary medal "Golden Jubilee of Mount Everest (Nepal).
Began athletics in 1955 - two-Union junior record in the relay 4 ? 800 meters.
Went to the mountains in 1959: the first peak in the Caucasus - Gumachi (3,805 m).
Graduated from high school instructor in 1961 at the climber camp "Dzhantugan"
Currently, public office: President, Union of mountaineers and rock climbers from Russia on Feb. 7, 2000, Executive Secretary of the Mountaineering Federation of Russia with 20 November 1993, Executive Secretary of the Eurasian Association of Mountaineering and Climbing on December 1, 1996. Member of the Board of the International Union of climbing Associations (UIAA) - 1997-2000.
Everest News of February…
Everest.
1. History. Alpinist Magazine about 1962 adventure Everest expedition.... This is the true, almost unbelievable story of a daring attempt by four amateur mountaineers—a college professor, a school teacher, a lawyer and a ...
1. History. Alpinist Magazine about 1962 adventure Everest expedition....
This is the true, almost unbelievable story of a daring attempt by four amateur mountaineers—a college professor, a school teacher, a lawyer and a geology student — to climb the highest peak in the world—Everest.
Without Sherpas or other porters, and with a bare minimum of money, food and equipment, this small band of adventurers, led by Woodrow Wilson Sayre, set out to climb Everest's North Face, which to date has never been conquered.
Not even bottled oxygen, considered by most professional climbers as a necessity, was taken. To make the journey even more hazardous, the expedition had to make a secret dash throughTibetto reach the North Face, risking capture, imprisonment, or even execution by the Chinese Communists, who reputedly patrol the Tibet-Nepal border.
The type of terrain the party crossed is some of the roughest in the world. Sayre recalls that the trek fromKathmandu,Nepalto base camp at the foot of Gyachung Kang was 'like walking up and down ladders fromBostontoAlbany.' Immediately beyond base camp the glacier 'rises 3,000 feet in a tumble of crevasses and ice blocks, and it includes two nearly vertical cliffs of around 1,000 feet.' The route then crosses some 25 miles of untracked glaciers averaging 20,000 feet in altitude. Never before in a Himalayan climb has base camp been at such a distance from the mountain to be climbed. The North Face route begins with the ascent of theNorth Col, which itself is a 1,500-foot-high wall of ice and snow.
The task was grueling and torturous. Carrying every ounce of their supplies for 40 days on their own backs, they had to struggle towards the mountain day after day, gasping for oxygen in the extremely rarified air. At one point a huge ice block overturned and obliterated their intended route. Without medical aid, and three weeks from help of any kind as they were, the slightest accident or misjudgment could have brought immediate disaster. Sayre himself, in three falls, slipped an incredible 1,000 feet down the North Face of Everest—and still walked out.
Each man was driven close to the breaking point. Exhaustion became a constant companion. Food rations ran logs. Before the end of the brutal journey, there was nothing left to eat, and they faced starvation
But there are those treasured, never-to-be-forgotten moments during the expedition when Sayre tells of his feelings of pure exhilaration—'of being close to the top of the world, of taking in at a glimpse thousands of square miles of untouched country, of walking where only a handful of men have walked in the history of the world.'
2001. Last time together....
2. Alan Arnette about new season:
http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest-2013-coverage/
Dawes Eddy:
Q: Dawes, you are 70 and have already summited Everest. Why again?
I love adventure and a challenge and my Everest climb in 2009 provided me with both. The 45 minutes I spent on the summit watching the sunrise was a very moving experience, which I would like to repeat. Chronologically, I’ll be four years older, but my definition of aging is defined as loss of function. My loss of conditioning and aerobic capacity the past 4 years has been minimal and I want to demonstrate that with the proper lifestyle choices, all things are possible into a person’s 70?s and beyond.
David Tait
Q: Your 2013 effort will require extraordinary stamina. Can you share with us your plan?
Yes, my plan does demand exceptional stamina. i have it physically, but do i have it mentally is the question – i will take it slow, realise that this visit is a gift, and try to extract the most from it. I’m not going to set public targets….. I have one in my head [an extreme one], but we shall have to see.
David Liano
He will be attempting in 2013 something no climber has ever done on Everest – climb both sides separately in one season. David is no stranger to Everest with three summits on five different climbs, so he knows what he is getting into.
Q: Now you are looking at a double summit of Everest meaning you hope to summit from Nepal, climbing from the South, then move to Tibet to climb from the North. This has never been done in one season. What is your motivation?
My goals on Everest have evolved mostly due to permit, political and health issues. But my motivation has stayed the same through the years: to live unique and challenging adventures and never to settle for the ordinary.
North-East India Everest expedition. More than 20 climbers
3. Sherpa woman overcomes prejudice for Everest record
http://in.reuters.com/article/2013/02/28/nepal-everest-woman-chhurim-sherpa-idINDEE91R09O20130228
KATHMANDU | Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:50pm IST
(Reuters) - When Chhurim Sherpa was a child she was inspired to dream of scaling Mount Everest by the mountaineers heading to the Himalayan peaks which tower over her village in eastern Nepal.
But economic and social pressures stood in her way, including people saying she did not have the right to set foot on the sacred peak because she was a mere female.
Now the slender 29-year-old is celebrating her world record status as the first woman to climb Everest twice in one week.
"I am lucky to get sponsors and very happy that I have been able to earn a place of pride for our country," she told Reuters as she sat cross-legged in her second-floor Kathmandu apartment, wearing tight jeans and with a bowl of toffees in front of her.
Chhurim, who like many sherpas is called by her first name, climbed Everest, the world's highest peak at 8,850 metres (29,035 feet) on May 12 and 19, 2011. On February 25, Guinness World Records officially recognised her feat as a world first, making her an instant international celebrity.
The sixth of eight children, Chhurim was born in Ghunsa, a tiny village in the shadow of the world's third highest peak, Kangchenjunga, 8,586 m (28,169 ft) tall, in northeast Nepal.
As a child she was fascinated by tales of the historic climbs of Japan's Junko Tabei, who became the first woman to climb Everest in 1975, and Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, who was the first Nepali woman to summit in 1993 but died on the descent.
Actually climbing it herself seemed only a distant dream. While some 4,000 climbers have ascended Everest since it was first scaled by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa nearly 60 years ago, fewer than 400 have been women.
In addition, sherpas consider Mount Everest - known as Sagarmatha in Nepali and Qomolangma, or Holy Mother, in Tibetan - to be a deity.
"It was not easy," she said, recalling when she first said she wanted to climb Everest. "They were disapproving and said it is a god and why should a woman like you try to climb."
There were numerous hurdles to overcome. Maya Sherpa, another sherpa woman who has summited Everest, said expenses kept many women from the peak.
But Chhurim persevered, leaving school as a grade eight student and joining a climbing training course run by the Nepal Mountaineering Association. Sponsorship by a Nepali hiking group paid her fees for this and later climbing ventures.
After climbing two smaller mountains in the Everest region she began setting her sights seriously on Everest in 2010.
"Initially my parents were against the idea. They thought I might die," she said. "But I told them that other women had climbed as well and that I am well trained. Then they agreed."
Like other sherpa climbers, Chhurim performed Hindu and Buddhist religious rites before beginning the ascent, asking forgiveness for setting foot on the mountain.
"I bowed my head to touch the ground three times, offered khada (Buddhist prayer scarves) and planted prayer flags as soon as I reached the top," she said.
Chhurim now has a new goal - she wants to summit the highest mountains on all seven continents.
Attitudes are changing in the majority Hindu nation, and male climbers - including Pemba Tshering, who made headlines when he climbed the peak at 16 in 2001 - spoke with pride about her achievement.
"Nowhere has it been written that women should not climb mountains," he said. (Reporting by Gopal Sharma, editing by Elaine Lies and Paul Casciato)
4. Denis Urubko.
- Is an ascension on the verge, and the ticket for such ascensions is often bought only in one party is or you have come, or you do not have any chances, - Denis speaks. - but it also bewitches, it just that I always searched in the ascensions together with Sergey Samoilov, with Boris Dedeshko, that is it is the present mountaineering when all becomes only once, irrevocably, when the friend - it more than the brother, and a water - drink the greatest value.
5. Valentin Bozhukov
"At my age, to climb to such heights is dangerous - he says. - And especially dangerous - go down from such a height. Therefore, because of age, I'm going to use for the descent from Everest a glider. The main thing - not to be mistaken with the weather. "
6. Cinema.
Film based on 1953 Mt Everest climb to begin shooting
Shooting begins tomorrow at Aoraki Mount Cook for the film depicting Sir Edmund Hillary's conquest of Mount Everest.
The 3D film Beyond the Edge tells the story of the monumental 1953 ascent.
Interest is already building following the announcement last week that actors Chad Moffitt and Sonam Sherpa have been cast as Sir Ed and Tensing Norgay.
New Zealand Film Commission chief executive Graeme Mason is wishing everyone working on the film the best as they embark on the ambitious mountain shoot to recapture one of the country's most historic moments.
A Canada-born hypnotherapist with only a few minor acting credits willl play Sir Edmund Hillary in a 3D film recreating his 1953 conquest of Mt Everest.
Wellington-based Chad Moffitt, whose previous roles included playing a flesh-eating zombie, won film-makers over with a simple approach - he sent in a photo of himself holding a $5 note bearing Hillary's face.
His resemblance to the mountaineer has delighted Hillary's son, Peter, and family.
Hillary's granddaughter, Anna Boyer, said photos of the actor in the movie bore a striking likeness to her grandfather even though Moffitt is five years older than when Hillary topped the world.
"The photos look fantastic," she said.
"He's got the perfect craggy face, it's terrific.
"Peter met Moffitt last year and he was really happy with him."
Beyond The Edge producer Matthew Metcalfe said they deliberately did not want a famous face in the role.
"He's pretty much our most well-known icon, and everyone in New Zealand feels like they have a vested interest and connection with Ed.
"So we made a decision early on that we didn't want to use a ‘movie star'.
"There were various people floating around, but we made a point of saying the movie is bigger than the star, the story is bigger than the man."
Moffitt, who at 192cm is just 3cm shorter than Hillary, grew up in Nelson and is a keen mountaineer.
He says he is used to people telling him how much he looks like the late knight.
Moffitt has worked for Sir Peter Jackson's Weta Digital - but trained last year in hypnotherapy and works part-time for a Wellington clinic.
Moffitt will be joined on screen by Sonam Sherpa, who will portray Tenzing Norgay. Sherpa is from Nepal but is a New Zealand resident living in the Mt Cook region.
"Tenzing was described by everyone who met him as the most charming, charismatic man, with an amazing smile," director Leanne Pooley said.
"Sonam is exactly the same and while relatively new to acting he is completely relaxed in front of the camera. It just seems incredible I found my Tenzing in New Zealand."
Filming for Beyond The Edge is scheduled to start on March 3 on and around Aoraki/Mt Cook, which will double as the Himalayas.
The film, which will use footage from 1953, is scheduled to be released later this year.
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7
. Everest book celebrates climbing, publishing firsts "Coffee tablet" book, available now on itunes
Two skilled climbers and talented writers, two distinctly different expeditions and one very big mountain comprise the key ingredients of the innovative "coffee tablet" book, Everest: High Expectations.
Written by Pat Morrow, who summitted Everest as a member of Canada's 1982 expedition two days after teammate Laurie Skreslet became the first Canadian to reach that pinnacle, and Sharon Wood, who became the first North American woman to reach that same point in 1986 with teammate Dwayne Congdon via a difficult new and never repeated route, the book itself represents several firsts.
In a narrative sense, it's the first publication to tell the story of how the preparation, unfolding tragedies and successes of the 1982 expedition spurred the particular planning, execution and triumph of the 1986 expedition.
But its production as an electronic book designed specifically to take advantage of the iPad's unique technological capabilities sets a new standard for illustrated books by combining the tradition of splendid coffee table books with multi-media innovation.
With 142 full-colour photographs illustrating its 140 pages, the book contains chapters by both authors. Each describes their personal histories and apprenticeships that led to their inclusion on their respective teams in an era when the only people climbing Everest were highly skilled climbers invited by their peers.
Subsequent chapters detail their respective climbs, and the book concludes with afterwards by each of them, in which Wood and Morrow share insightful comments on the mostly lamentable state of Everest as overcrowded and disrespected, with Morrow writing, "Adventure tourism has turned one of the world's great mountains into a crowded playground. Admission is costly, and sometimes fatal."
Both Morrow and Wood's writing styles are engaging and captivating as they describe the adventures and experiences that defined and celebrated that particular chapter of each of their life stories.
At the same time, the book's equal triumph is in its multi-media 3D presentation facilitated by the iPad's technology.
A flick of the finger on any photo expands the image to fill the screen. Numerous photos have two, three or as many as 10-full colour and sharply textured images accessed as interactive slide shows, each bearing captions that share additional details about the climbs' events, personalities and state of the mountain.
Not stopping at still photos, the hybrid book also incorporates video and audio footage from both the '82 and '86 expeditions, which literally bring the story to life — including breathless commentary by Skreslet as he films an avalanche thundering down a not-very-distant slope, adding an extra dimension of drama and depth to the story.
You can feel the cold in Skreslet's voice.
--
The book also includes links to external resources including a one-hour documentary, as well as electronic footnotes providing valuable information about key people and story elements that can be accessed later without interrupting the text.
Beyond the high-tech bells and whistles though, Everest: High Expectations masterfully shares a story from a perspective that's never before been recorded — how the circumstances of the 1982 expedition, during which a large team intent on making a uniquely Canadian stamp on Everest by climbing a new, technically challenging route, fractured after the tragic deaths of three Sherpas and a cameraman. The team regrouped and ultimately succeeded in its goal of placing the first Canadian on the summit — which inspired and guided the planning and execution of the self-sufficient, smaller Everest Light 1986 expedition.
To produce the publication to coincide with the 30th anniversary of the '82 climb, Morrow teamed up with publisher Frank Edwards, with whom he first worked in 1975 when Edwards was editor of Canadian Geographic magazine.
For her part, Wood said she valued the opportunity to write about the '86 expedition from her perspective as one member of the team and to express how the '82 expedition influenced and inspired her.
"I really enjoyed writing about how I was very moved to witness my peers facing such hardship and rising to it, and also by how different individuals rose to those challenges in very different ways," Wood said. "The '82 trip was very much an inspiration for me, and I wanted a chance to rise to a challenge the way they did."
With both the '82 and '86 climbs being ground-breaking Canadian mountaineering accomplishments, it's only fitting that the book that links their connection should be too.
More than just a book, Everest: High Expectations is a well-written, introspective and thoughtful story artfully told in a 3D multi-media experience. As such, Morrow said he feels confident that while many fans of mountain literature may not own or use iPads, with 600 million current iPad users projected to rise to 100 million, he expected the book's captivating stories of adventure combined with its high production values have the potential to reach a large audience, including those who might discover mountaineering as literary genre. At the same time, he added, the book could potentially be made suitable for other electronic readers.
"Mountaineering is a natural fit for electronic books, so many expeditions have video and audio components," Morrow said. "Keep in mind; this is only version two of this software. We're just at the dawn of iBook publishing. The iPad itself is underutilized. Our book stands a chance of opening eyes to what's possible."
Everest: High Expectations is downloadable on the iPad by searching for the title, authors' names or at the iTunes book store for $9.99.
8. Tom Whittaker visited Kyrgyzstan
Kilian Jornet on the Red Fox Elbrus Race 2013
Elbrus.
We invite you on the May holidays to the Elbrus region. Terskol office of the 7 Summits Club will welcome you and provide you all possible assistance (equipment rental, consultation and climbing Elbrus). For several days here it will be the ...
We invite you on the May holidays to the Elbrus region. Terskol office of the 7 Summits Club will welcome you and provide you all possible assistance (equipment rental, consultation and climbing Elbrus). For several days here it will be the center of the mountaineering life inRussia. This is due to the competitions Red Fox Elbrus Race 2013. The level and the number of participants of the Race is growing from year to year. Here you can see a lot of outstanding climbers, both among participants, judges, organizers and fans. Including the best skyrunner and ski mountaineer of modern time Catalan Kilian Jornet. His goal – a new speed record on Elbrus.
Record now belongs to a Pole Andrzej Bargiel. It was set in 2010, in September, in more favorable than in May, conditions. The record is very good, to beat him will not be easy: 3:23.27 on the route Azau - Western summit. So it will be intriguing.
Last year Jornet announced his program of establishing speed records on the Seven summits (Summits of my life). The first year, 2012, was not successful, it began with a tragedy. At the end of an epic traverse ofMont Blancmassive, falling with a snow cornice, Stephane Brosse died. He was a close friend of Kilian and his teacher.
Now the plan of Jornet is as follows: 2013 - Mount Elbrus, Matterhorn and Mont Blanc, 2014 -Aconcaguaand McKinley, 2015 - Everest!
Record on the Matterhorn according to Jornet - 3:14:44 (no details), and onMont Blanc- 5:10:44 (from the church to the top and back).
In late February, Kilian Jornet went to theHimalayas. Its partners, and teachers are two of the leading high-altitude Catalan climbers Jordi Tosas and Jordi Corominas. No special plans were advertised, the main thing - to get the first experience with theHimalayas.
Jordi Corominas at a press conference of Jornet
A new clip about Kilian:
#
In the middle of February there was a World Championship on ski-mountaineering. Kilian won (third time !) in his favorable discipline - the vertical race. In the individual race Jornet was the third, he kept long the lead, but lost at the end of a minute to his friends, young Frenchmen William Bon Mardion and Matheo Jacquemoud.
A clip about the World Cup ski-mountaineering
Red Fox Elbrus Race 2013
We wait your application on the V anniversary International Festival of extreme sports Red Fox Elbrus Race 2013!
Red Fox company together with Russian Mountaineering Federation conduct V International festival Red Fox Elbrus Race on May 6-11, 2013.
The competition will take place on the Elbrus peak, the highest top of theEuropeand the most popular Russian mountain region.
Program includes:
- 2013 Vertical Kilometer® Series: Elbrus Vertical Kilometer®, 2450-3450 m. Men, women.
- 2013 SkyRace® Series: Elbrus Vertical SkyMarathon®, 2350-5642 m. Men, women.
- High-speed run to theWestElbrusPeak(3750-5642 m). Nonprofessional class. Men, women.
- Elbrus Open Ski-mountaineering Cup: team race. Men, women.
- Snow-shoes race. Red Fox TSL Challenge. Men, women.
The Red Fox Elbrus Race will take place for the fifth time in 2013. Every year more than 200 best mountaineers, skyrunners, skiers, climbers and multisportsmen from Russia, USA, UK, Austria, Australia, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, Sweden, Poland, Greece, New Zealand, Kirgizia, Kazakhstan, Latvia, Ukraine, Georgia come to compete in the Festival.
This festival provides an opportunity to reach the highest peak ofEuropeand creates a special occasion for communication and an exchange of experience between the Russian and foreign professional sportsmen and amateurs.
Organizers - Red Fox Outdoor Equipment Company and Russian Mountaineering Federation
Race director - Evgeniy Kolchanov
Official Festival's web site: www.elbrus.redfox.ru
The preliminary applications can be sent by e-mail in the attached excel file. E-mail: elbrus@redfox.ru. It's obligatory to indicate last name, age and discipline of the competitions and qualification.
The preliminary applications are accepted until 25th April 2013 with obligatory confirmation.
You are welcome!
Program
6th May
11:00-19:00 Registration. Glade Azau.
19:00 Briefing of the Elbrus Vertical Kilometer®, 2450-3450 m (2013 Skyrunner® World Series).
7th May
9:00 2013 Skyrunner® World Series: Vertical Kilometer® - Mt Elbrus 2450-3450 m. 2nd stage of the Russian Skyrunner Cup. Glade Azau (2450 m) - Mir station (3450 m).
14:00 Inauguration of the Festival. Awarding ceremony of the winners of the Elbrus Vertical Kilometer®.
15:30 Press-conference.
19:00 Briefing of the ski-mountaineering team race.
8th May
9-00 Elbrus Open Ski-mountaineering Cup: team race.
15-00 Awarding ceremony of the winners of the ski-mountaineering team race.
16-00 The participants of the high-speed run (Nonprofessional class) and the judges go up to the "Barrels" (Garabashi).
19-00 Briefing of the Elbrus Vertical SkyMarathon®.
9th May
7-00 Elbrus Vertical SkyMarathon®. Russian Skyrunner Championship.
20-00 Briefing of the RedFox TSL Challenge (snow-shoes race).
10th May
11-00 RedFox TSL Challenge. Snow-shoes race.
16-00 Awarding ceremony of the winners of the Elbrus Vertical SkyMarathon® and of the snow-shoes race.
Closing ceremony of the Festival.
11th May
Reserve day.
The event is held under the support of the Kabardino-Balkaria government
New Georgian authorities promised to put Gia Tortladze imprisoned for the project Seven Summits
Everest.
Agency Information Agency REGNUM. Investigation Service of the Ministry of Finance of Georgia chapter of suspected non-profit organization "Center for de-occupation" Gia Tortladze of improper spending of budget funds. This former deputy of ...
Agency Information Agency REGNUM. Investigation Service of the Ministry of Finance of Georgia chapter of suspected non-profit organization "Center for de-occupation" Gia Tortladze of improper spending of budget funds. This former deputy of Parliament, member of the Democratic Party of Georgia could face 7 to 11 years in prison, according to the information of radio "Voice of Russia".
"Center of de-occupation" of Tortladze stated that his non-profit organization is going to "convince the international community to establish for Russia conditions under which may be established economic and political sanctions."
To do this, in September 2012, the Ministry of Culture of Georgia Center contributed approximately $ 200 thousand, which he had spent on the project "Georgia without occupation," and donated SUV Toyota Land Cruiser, worth about $ 60 thousand, which in January was sold by Tortladze for $ 50 thousand, putting money in his pocket.
Tortladze used the money to organize mountaineering expeditions. He raised the banner "Georgia - no occupants" to the top of Mount Everest, Aconcagua and Kilimanjaro. It may be also estimated as improper spending of budget funds.
80 years old Valentin Bozhukov is ready for Everest ...
Everest.
Valentin Bozhukov is 80 years old. And he wants to continue his mountaineering career and fulfill his cherished dream: to climb Mount Everest. Valentin has high physical condition, strong will, a great experience and he is able to reach the ...
Valentin Bozhukov is 80 years old. And he wants to continue his mountaineering career and fulfill his cherished dream: to climb Mount Everest. Valentin has high physical condition, strong will, a great experience and he is able to reach the summit of Everest. Sponsors have already collected an initial payment, but the money is still missing. Please help the veteran.
Valentin Bozhukov started climbing a 50-s. He holds a record for the number of gold medals in the championships of the USSR. He climbed many times all five Soviet Union summits above 7000 meters. Valentin is an aeronautical engineer who has worked all his life in the design office. In the 80-s years Bozhukov became one of the first in Russia, who have mastered the paraglider. In recent years, he was worked on upgrading the oxygen equipment, repeatedly visited Nepal and Everest Base Camps.
Videopresentation:
Support group: "Andrey Krylov" and Valery Bagov
E-mail: bagovval@mail.ru
E-mail: vamibo@hotmail.ru Valentin Bozhukov
rrgrv@yandex.ru - Olesya Vodinskaya, manager
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