Aconcagua(6962) - Page 14

On January 27, 2019, Alexander Abramov climbed the highest peak in South America, Mount Aconcagua,  it was a part of “Seven summits in seven months” project. Artem Rostovtsev, also the guide of the 7 Summits Club, was his climbing partner.  Climbing took place in difficult weather conditions, the summit was not easy.

Svetlana Kotlyar from Argentina:

Hello 7 Summits Club from "Aconcagua-3"!

 Yesterday we had a great day of rest here: we had time to sunbathe, and walk to the waterfall, and pass the medical check.

 At Plaza de Mulas there is almost summer — by 10 am the sun comes out and a cool breeze blows.

 For lunch, our Alpine chef Anya cooked us mushroom soup of real Russian mushrooms, for dinner there was fried potatoes with mushrooms! The team members were thrilled!

 Everyone feels good! Now we have breakfast and prepare to go up. Today again we spend a night at 5500 m in Nido de Cóndores, tomorrow we rise to 6000, and from there we will try to storm the top of Aconcagua!

 Wish us luck!

Svetlana Kotlyar from Argentina: Hello, 7 Summits Club!  Group Aconcagua-3 with you!

Yesterday we made quite a difficult marsh up to the camp Nido de Cóndores, gaining more than 1000 m in height.

The weather changed.  Already in the morning the summit of our "stone guard" was tightly tightened dark gray clouds, and we were blown by unpleasant wind.

 We left Plaza de Mulas at 10: 00 am, less than three hours before we reached Canada Camp.  And then a strong wind came up, by feelings up to 30-35 km/h, and after a minutes it started to snow.

But even in such difficult conditions the group reached 5500 m in six hours! Our super guides say it's a good time!

  In the upper camp there is a large tent-dining room (“Strong hall”), where we were waiting for hot soup and tea prepared by Andrei Berezin! We settled in large comfortable triple tents, walked around the camp.

In the late afternoon the sun came out and you could see how fast the clouds are running over the top of Aconcagua!

Today we spend a night at a new height and tomorrow we run down to the Plaza de Mulas!

Alexander Abramov from Argentina:

 Today  there was a day of rest and preparation for the ascent. Tomorrow morning I and Artem Rostovtsev go to Nido de Condores.  And today we walked through the camps, went to the Studio of Miguel.

 There we met a Japanese guide Hiro (Kazuya Hiraide). He brought 86-year-old Yuichiro Miura and his son. Son ascended the summit, but Old Miura would not reach 300 m to the summit.

Svetlana Kotlyar from the base camp under mount Aconcagua:

Greetings from the group "Aconcagua-3" from the base camp Plaza de Mulas!

 Yesterday we made a long trek: we gained almost 900 m in height and walked more than 20 km. The whole trekking took about 8.5 hours with snacks and rest stops.

We left the Confluence camp at 8: 00 am. Just a couple of minutes the sun came out and warmed with its rays.

Trekking can be divided into two segments: the first,  so-called "frying pan", a fairly long (about 13 km) area of almost flat surface. Second — is the steep  path to the  base camp.

The weather is good. At these altitudes become warmer — the previously frozen streams melted, and several times we were looking through them the crossing.

The idea that the Plaza de Mulas is waiting for us helped made the way warmer! Anya Ershova (mountain chef) and guide Andrey Berezin have prepared everything for our arrival: what could be better than a hot lunch after such a hard day?

 Service at height level: members of the group live in separate tents, we have our own kitchen and a large tent-dining room, where it is warm and cozy to gather together. Food, drinks, vegetables, fruits, sweets - all this in abundance!

 Today, the plan is a small acclimatization walk.

Alexander Abramov, President of 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

The team of «7 Summits in 7 months” decided to make a new project: "Each of 7 summits in 7 days".

I and Artem Rostovtsev go to Aconcagua for 7 days. Today is the second day. We came to the Plaza de Mulas, height - 4300 m. Health - so-so. But we finally saw our Russian camp on Aconcagua. Perfectly. Super camp. Cheerfully. The neighbors came: Irina Galai, Dasha and the rest…

Today began the adventures of our team. Having collected all things, in the morning we went to the mountains! Friends, what a beauty here! Majestic Andes of all shades of red and brown against the blue sky-stunning scenery!

By lunchtime, we got to Penitentes, checked into the hotel. Our guides Vladimir Kotlyar  and Viktor Ershov led the first acclimatization  trek to the altitude of 3000 m.

The sun is shining bright, and from the mountains blows soft and cool — perfect conditions for walking!

Team members feel great. Now we are having dinner and gaining strength! Tomorrow we will go to   Confluencia camp at a height of 3400 m, where we will meet again with Alex Abramov and Artem Rostovtsev.

  The second part of the project "7 summits in 7 months" begins. Today Alexander Abramov and Artem Rostovtsev bought permits for Aconcagua. Tomorrow is the start of the expedition!

Victor Yershov, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

We climbed to the top of Aconcagua yesterday!!! Very harsh weather conditions, temperatures down to -40 ° C, strong winds up to 60-70 km / h. But most of the group with guides Viktor Ershov and Zhenya Staroselsky, 9 people, climbed to the top! A real storm! And we're the only ones in 7 days who could get in. We started from the camp Nido De Condores, 5500 m, and in 16 hours climbed the mountain, and for another 5 hours – went down. Today we have reached the Base - Plaza de Mulas, tomorrow we run to the entrance to the Park and to warm Mendoza!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

Aloja, dear! Merry Christmas, everyone! We celebrate it at the height of 4400 and we have the right weather, Christmas!

 And this is the current situation in the base camp Plaza de Mulas!

Guide the 7 Summits Club Vladimir Kotlyar from Argentina:

 Hello dears!!! Our friendly fighting detachment Las Heras went to 5500 for acclimatization. And we did not just go, and even stayed for the night. The team proved themselves well, went up quick and cheerfully. Advanced team under the leadership of Viktor Ershov and Eugene Staroselsky has climbed for five and a half hours. The rearguard (group of Hedonists) under the leadership of Vladimir Kotlyar ascended in six and a half hours. The acclimatization program has been completed, now we will wait for a weather window and pray for good luck!

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Vladimir Kotlyar from Argentina:

 Hi, The 7 Summits Club! Group Las Heras continues to acclimatize. The whole group we went to 5000 m. the weather was great, but a little wind blows. The heads of members, of course, still ache, but this does not prevent us from being on the wave of positive and enjoy the surrounding beauty!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

 Holidays are holidays, but you can not miss the acclimatization day. Today we walked on the glacier Horcones and went to visit to our friend painter Miguel! And in the evening we congratulated our Julia on her birthday!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

Hello, 7  Summits!!!!  I wish everyone a happy New Year on behalf of the Las heros team! Today we all moved to the Plaza de Mulas, in our base camp.  Our staff Anechka, Andrey and Valery have already prepared everything for the holiday!!! Hurrah!!!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

 Hello, 7 Summits Club! We've finally gone to the mountains! Today our base is a small ski resort of Penitentes, at a height of 2700 meters above sea level. Having reached this place, we prepared our simple belongings for transportation on mules, and went for acclimatization. The whole group went to the height of 3100. When I looked back at the group, goosebumps ran on the skin: after all, such a detachment can capture some medieval city!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

 Aloja, 7 Summits!!!! All members of the group “Los Heros” gathered in the capital of Argentine winemaking! Finally, all the luggage got to Mendoza after the participants, paid and received permits for the mountain, purchased products and resolved other domestic issues. Tomorrow we will move to the mountains together! Wish us luck!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of  the 7 Summits Club:

Four members and one guide of the 7 Summits Club climbed to the top of Aconcagua! There was no one else on the mountain that day. The climb took 24 hours and the locals called us crazy.

Victor Ershov, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

Hello! Justified the name (Double Victor - that is a Double Victory!) and today at 14.15 we stood at the top of Aconcagua - one of the first this season in general and the first from the Russian camp of the 7 Summits! The ascent took place in difficult conditions - in the morning and at night there was a strong wind with small grains, then for a few hours it spread and was relatively warm. And on the descent we were covered with a thunderstorm with fog – we were a little beat static.  There were four forecasts, which I compared before the ascent - none was justified! But this did not prevent us to successfully ascend and no less successfully descend immediately from the top to the base camp of Plaza de Mulas! Season's open! Hurray!

Andrey Berezin, Guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

Today, a group named as a “Gypsy camp” leaves, but not in the sky, but for acclimatization overnight in the camp Nido de Condores. Yesterday there was a day of rest, so we could gain strength. Tomorrow at evening, we are scheduled to return to the base Camp of the Plaza de Mulas.  Your guides: Kotlyar, Berezin, Miasoedov.

Guide the 7 Summits Club Victor Ershov:

Greetings from the group "W"!  We reached 5800, then went down to the base camp  Placa de Mulas.  We are now resting one day and tomorrow we go back up the slopes  of Aconcagua, already with an eye to the top!

 Vladimir Kotlyar, a Guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

 Hello dears!!!! For two days we have accumulated a lot of photos and emotions!!! Group  is worthy of overcoming difficulties and gaining kilometers in height! Separately I want to note our girls!!!! They are beautiful and not inferior to men!