Lenin Peak(7134) - Page 2

Valery Myasoedov, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Greetings from Kyrgyzstan! Another group from the summer season of the 8000 Club arrived at the Lenin Peak Base Camp today. On the way, we got stuck in a traffic jam for an hour and a half, and work was being carried out on the Pamir Highway to clear the slopes of dangerous stones. But this did not affect our excellent mood, and the amazing comfortable yurts in which we will spend two nights raised it even more. The day before, we spent the day in Osh, walked around the city and along Mount Suleiman-Too, and had dinner at the national restaurant Navat. Fortunately, despite numerous flight delays and cancellations, everyone arrived on time, and now nothing prevents us from starting our program. The group name will be ready tomorrow.

The Guide of the Club 8000 group Andrey Berezina sends from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello to everyone from Kyrgyzstan! The "Svet Zhok" group arrived today at the third camp of Lenin Peak. It is located at an altitude of 6100 meters. This is the assault camp from which the groups go on the ascent. It was very hot throughout the day. At night we go out to storm Lenin Peak.

The Guide of the Club 8000 group Andrey Berezina sends from Kyrgyzstan:

 Hello to everyone from Kyrgyzstan! The "Svet Zhok" group has set out to summit climb. Today we are climbing from the first camp to the second camp. Tomorrow - the climb to Razdelnaya. According to the plan, the ascent on the summit is scheduled for July 24th.

The Guide of the 8000 Club group Andrey Berezin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Hello everyone from Kyrgyzstan! The “Svet Zhok” group, as part of the acclimatization plan, climbed to the second camp of Lenin Peak, from where they radially descended to Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m). The weather changed during the climb, it was sunny for three days, and it was also hot on the "Frying Pan". Today we descended to Camp 1. As soon as we arrived, it started raining. Tomorrow and the day after tomorrow we will definitely rest, further plans "for rest" and the time of start for the climb will be adjusted according to the weather.

The Guide of the 8000 Club group Andrey Berezin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello to everyone from Kyrgyzstan! The "Svet Zhok" group made the first of three planned ascents. Today we went to Yukhin Peak, the height of which is 5130 meters. It is located a couple of kilometers from the first camp. The path goes along small scree slopes. We reached the summit in 3.5 hours. Now a cyclone has come to the region. Therefore, by the time we reached the summit, light snow had fallen. We descended quite quickly along an earthen path. Now everyone is in the camp. We are resting.

The 7 Summits Club guide Viktor Volodin sends from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello to everyone from almost sunny Asia, from the "Shashlychnaya Fantasy" group! I will give a chronology of the last days. So, before dawn on July 12, we left the first to the second camp. On the 13th, we climbed to the third camp and on the 14th, before dawn again, we set out to storm the summit. Unfortunately, one participant felt ill and had to be lowered back to the third camp, and then to the second camp. I, with one participant, continued the ascent to the summit.

Our route went along rocks and snow-ice slopes. At about 6700 there was a problematic section called "Knife", where ropes were fixed, without which we would have had to sweat a little. Closer to midday the weather began to deteriorate, there was a thick fog, snow. There was also a strong wind at the top. We took a few photos and began the descent. By 19:00 we were in the third camp.

Today, July 15, we began the descent to the first camp and by lunch we safely descended to our tents. The weather is bad, it is snowing. In general, the entire program went well and without incident. Tomorrow we will go down to the city of Osh, soak, sunbathe, and eat well. This is where our expedition of the "Shashlik Fantasy" group of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club ended. Until next time in the mountains!

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Hello everyone from Kyrgyzstan! The "Svet Zhok" group today went to their first altitude, 4150 m. We climbed the slope of Petrovsky Peak. All participants joined the acclimatization process. After lunch, everyone together was busy packing and preparing things for sending to Camp 1.

 Additionally, a video review of the yurt and dining room in the base camp

The 7 Summits Club  Guide Andrey Berezin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello everyone from Kyrgyzstan! The Svet Zhok group arrived at the Lenin Peak base camp. We checked into comfortable yurts. The houses have everything: beds with bed linen, electricity, hot water, a bathroom, and a shower. In general, a full-fledged hotel room, only it is located on a glade at an altitude of 3700, and with a view of Lenin Peak.

The 7 Summits Club Guide Andrey Berezin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Hello everyone from Kyrgyzstan! The Svet Zhok group gathered in the city of Osh. We checked our gear and equipment. We visited a local landmark - Suleiman Mountain. After that, everyone gathered in a restaurant, where we tried local cuisine. Tomorrow we leave for the Lenin Peak base camp, where we will spend a couple of days before heading out to the high-mountain zone.

The 7 Summits Club guide Viktor Volodin sends from Kyrgyzstan:

 Greetings to everyone from not-so-sunny Kyrgyzstan, from the "Shashlychnaya Fantasy" group! I will give a chronology of these three days. On July 7 at two o'clock in the morning we left Camp One for Camp Two. The glacier is very torn, in some places there are ladders through the cracks. We were lucky with the weather that day and at 12 o'clock we were at the place where a large cozy tent, lunch and rest were waiting for us. On July 8 we left at 9 am for Razdelnaya. And although we had to trample the snow above Camp Two, in five hours we were able to climb to Camp Three at an altitude of 6,100 meters. And then the weather began to deteriorate, a strong wind blew, by lunchtime we descended to Camp Two at 5,400 and spent the night for the second time. It snowed all night and shook the tents. On July 9, we got up early and began the descent to the base camp. There was no visibility, which made the descent difficult. In the middle of the day, we managed to escape from the snow captivity and by lunchtime, tired but happy, we descended to the first camp. And we began to rest and restore our strength.

The 7 Summits Club super guide Viktor Volodin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Again information from the "Shashlychnaya Fantasy" group. The calendar shows July 6th and we have a rest day planned. But we didn't waste time, in the morning we adjusted crampons to our boots and held training sessions on climbing and descending a fixed rope. Then we walked in ropes. After lunch we received food for tomorrow's trip. Tomorrow we leave at two in the morning to the second camp. On July 8th, a rotation to Razdelnaya is planned, again spending the night in the second camp. And on the 9th we descend to the first camp. Here is the plan for these days. Wish us a good and easy journey, patience and luck. These days we will be without communication, be patient, wait for new messages!

The 7 Summits Club  guide Viktor Volodin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to everyone from the "Shashlychnaya Fantasy" group, expedition to Lenin Peak! Today was an acclimatization day, and all of us at a good pace climb to Yukhin Peak (5130 meters). The weather is wonderful, there is no snow at all compared to last year. We continue acclimatization, staying in the comfortable conditions of Camp 1 (4300 m).

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Viktor Volodin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

News from the group "Shashlik Fantasy". This morning we handed over our things to be loaded onto horses for transportation to the first camp. We had a hearty breakfast and set out towards Lenin Peak, in the direction of the first camp, located at an altitude of 4,300 m. And without hurrying and without rushing, we crossed the Travelers' Pass and were there by 3 p.m. There we had a delicious lunch and accommodation in luxurious glamping tents. This is always the case with the participants of the 7 Summits - Club 8000 groups. The weather is wonderful, the participants feel great.

The 7 Summits Club guide Viktor Volodin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Big greetings from Asia from the "Shashlychnaya Fantasy" group! Today, the whole group took a walk for acclimatization, reached a height of 4 thousand meters, admired the beauty that opened up. The participants feel great, the weather is ringing. We rest for half a day and prepare for tomorrow's exit to the first camp.

 The 7 Summits Club guide Viktor Volodin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 News from under Lenin Peak from the "Shashlychnaya Fantasy" group. Today we were on the road all day. Early in the morning we left the glorious city of Osh, drove through the pass and then drove along the wide Alai Valley. In the afternoon we arrived at our base camp, the settlement of Achiktash. There we were very well received, comfortably settled in large permanent tents and fed deliciously. The weather in the base camp is slightly cloudy and cool. We are starting to acclimatize.

The 7 Summits Club Guide Viktor Volodin sends from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello to everyone from the hospitable East from a new group called "Shashlik Fantasy"! Today our entire group gathered in the beautiful city of Osh, where watermelons, melons, peaches and samsa have already ripened. To begin with, we decided to acclimatize and went to the sacred mountain Suleiman-Too, which is located in the city center and is under the patronage of UNESCO. In one go, we crossed the thousand-meter altitude line. Then we walked around the city itself, through its beautiful green parks. Well, and in the evening, a very tasty gala dinner awaited us. If you love Asian cuisine, I definitely recommend coming here and trying the most delicious pilaf, pure honey. With you, Salam aleikum guide Viktor Volodin.

Pamir is calling! On August 15, the Club 8000 group "Lenin, brothers!" climbed Lenin Peak! The day was long. The first half of the day, as usual in the Pamirs, was clear and cloudless. We reached the summit after lunch; at which time the mountain was already covered by clouds and light snow began to fall. The descent took place under a snowfall. Here we felt all the vast expanses of Lenin Peak and its power. As a result, closer to the evening, the whole team was in the Third Camp.

On August 16, we safely descended to the First camp. Next, Osh with its benefits of civilization awaits us. Group guides Andrey Berezin and Valery Myasoedov.

Pamir is in touch! The "Lenin, brothers!" group has completed the acclimatization cycle, having climbed Razdelnaya Peak, 6100 m. We spent two nights in the Second Camp, at an altitude of 5300 meters. It turns out that we have passed the Lenin Glacier in both directions. Now is the second half of the season, the cracks on the glacier are getting bigger. There are many stairs on the trail. Now we are in the First Camp. We are resting, recuperating, monitoring the weather forecast, choosing a day for the ascent. The group's guides are Andrey Berezin and Valery Myasoedov.

Pamir and the "Lenin, brothers!" group are on the line. Another day at the First Camp of Lenin Peak. Today we walked to Domashniy Peak, 4750. And after lunch we held a lesson on moving through cracks. For this purpose, we took ladders, like on a glacier, and walked along them. Tomorrow we are heading to the Second Camp, where we will spend a couple of days. We will ascend to the Third Camp and to the Razdelnaya Peak for acclimatization, and descend to the Second Camp. Group guides Andrey Berezina and Valery Myasoedov.

Pamir is in touch! The "Lenin, Brothers!" group climbed yesterday to the First Camp of Lenin Peak, at an altitude of 4400 meters. We will stay here until the summit push. Today the team attended classes to practice the technique and tactics of moving along fixed ropes, and practiced descending and ascending on jumars. After lunch we adjusted the equipment: crampons, harnesses. This evening we are playing Perudo in the dining room. The group's guides are Andrey Berezin and Valery Myasoedov.