Lenin Peak(7134) - Page 4

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Good day to all! June 30th is on the calendar. The group of the 7 Summits Club "Octobrata" in full force today made an acclimatization ascent on Yukhin Peak (5130 m). The participants feel good, everyone is happy and satisfied. Tomorrow, according to the plan, is a day of rest and preparation for going to the Second camp. The weather is good from morning to lunch, then a charge of snow, everything is restored in the evening.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Viktor Volodin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello everyone! Today, the group of the 7 Summits Club "Octobrata" in full health and good mood started from the base camp to the First camp at 4400. The route ran along a good path through the Travelers' pass. Six hours later, without straining, we were there. At the camp, we were greeted with delicious watermelon, melon and a delicious lunch. Everything is very well organized here. After lunch, there was rest and preparation for tomorrow, for a walk on the glacier and snow-ice training sessions.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Today, on June 27, in the morning we were woken up by a loudspeaker with cheerful children's songs. The weather is great and we, the Octobrata group, went together in a row to the acclimatization rotation. As a result, the participants crossed the four thousandth milestone. After lunch, we are preparing for tomorrow's departure to the First Camp.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The group of the 7 Summits Club "Octobrata" left the glorious and warm city of Osh today and arrived at the Achik-Tash Glade after seven hours of driving. There we were very warmly welcomed and settled in comfortable yurts, with all amenities. The base camp is very conveniently located and well equipped. There is a nice and spacious dining room, and it has delicious food.

Nikita Slotin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! On 22.07.23, the group in full force at 13:30 stood on the peak with a height of 7134 meters. For many, this height has become a personal record, at which none of the participants is going to stop! We left Camp 3 at 2:00. An unpleasant wind was blowing, but the sky was starry, it remained to trust our gut and forecast. At 8:00 we climbed the 6800 "knife", the sun came out, and life immediately got better. The wind died down, and we began to roast our carcasses, slowly wandering to the top. The ascent from the Plateau of Parachutists was not easy, especially these takeoffs, behind which, as you think, there should be a peak, and there turns out to be another takeoff. And here it is!!! The summit! And on the descent, a bonus was waiting for us - a climb from the jumper to the third camp, to the long-awaited tents... And today our team is already at the height of 3600 in the bar.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Greetings to all from the slopes of the Pamir mountains from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we actively rested. We went for a walk to the lakes, swam and played a little with pebbles, and also fried potatoes... Tomorrow is another day of rest and, according to the plan, on the night of 19-20, we will go to the second camp.

Nikita Slotin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The group "Everything goes according to plan" safely descended to the first camp of Lenin Peak at noon. The third acclimatization rotation is completed. Now rest and wait for the weather. A few days... and for the final assault.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Camp-3 on Lenin Peak, from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we left our cozy dome at 5350 and climbed 6100 in 5.5 hours. The morning turned out to be sunny and hot, but after arriving at the camp it began to snow. After a little rest and eating pilaf and solyanka, we went to the summit of Razdelnaya 6140. We are waiting for the sunset and cooking borscht for dinner. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will descend to the first camp. They promise snowfall.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello to everyone from from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! At night we managed to enjoy the starry sky. And today is another sunny day, which means that soon there will be no weather, just for our acclimatization.  But we are not discouraged and are preparing to go out! Today we held ice classes, remembered how to use descenders and jumars correctly. We walked in crampons on slopes of different steepness and learned to work as a single rope. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we go to the second camp, there will be no connection, unless the crazy Internet suddenly breaks through, but we use it to write to our relatives! Wait for news after the descent.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the first camp of Lenin Peak from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! The weather whispers - go to the mountain! Well, we went - to acclimatize we climbed to the peak of Yukhin 5100. After lunch, we played cards, read books, slept, rested. We also have a generator "dead" in the camp, but this is not a hindrance for us, and the evening disco will take place! Ice climbing classes are planned for tomorrow.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Greetings to all from the first camp of Lenin Peak from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! This is where our ascent really begins. Today was a good five-hour walk from the base camp. A little tired, but everyone is happy. The northern slope of the mountain and the peak of 7134 opened in all its glory. Today is the first night at 4300, we are waiting for interesting dreams. Tomorrow, according to the weather and the condition of the participants, we will continue our acclimatization.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! In the best traditions of one of our guides, Dmitry, we started the morning with morning exercises and, of course, with coffee. We successfully drove fat marmots and walked along the crest of Petrovsky Peak up to 4000 m. The weather pleases with warmth and sunshine, although it was blowing on the ridge, as always, but not for long! Now we are resting, packing up and preparing for tomorrow's exit to the first camp. They promise the sun! In the evening, there was  a traditional gatherings with a guitar!

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings from Kyrgyzstan from the friendly team "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we bought everything we needed, left the hot city of Osh and arrived at the hospitable Achik-Tash base camp under Lenin Peak! The weather greeted us with a light rain. Having had a delicious dinner in the new dining room, having sorted out the plans for tomorrow, we moved to the bar to sing songs! Tomorrow, according to the acclimatization plan, we will climb 4000m to the crest of Petrovsky Peak.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The group (as yet untitled) gathered for Lenin Peak today in the resort town of Osh. Today we managed to get acquainted with the bars and restaurants of the city, and of course cool off in the pool under the scorching sun! We changed money, bought SIM cards, checked equipment, got to know each other, who went where, who had what mountain plans. Tomorrow we leave for the base camp, and finally enjoy the coolness of the mountains!

For the fifth year in the summer, our friends from Nepal come to the mountains of Central Asia to work on our seven-thousandth Lenin Peak and Khan Tengri. These are different students of the 7 Summits Club, employees of our Himalayan expeditions. At one time, we recommended them to our partners at the seven-thousandth. Now they no longer need recommendations. We are a little proud of it! And the fact that we are not forgotten, from time to time they are sending greetings for us  from the mountains!

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Our group made a second attempt to climb the peak of 7134 m. The forecast has not been very good for several days! A chance to climb to the top is possible for a sports-trained group. On August 15 at 3:30, when the wind is least according to the forecast, we leave Camp-3. Many groups went out to climb on this day. But around 7-8 in the morning, the groups turn around, we try to go further. The wind, about 35 km / h, does not knock you down, but you have to fight, snowfall, creating visibility of no more than 25 meters. Experience and patience - let's move on. We pass the knife by 11-12 o'clock in the afternoon, everything is covered with fresh snow, we have to trail...

By 13:30 we reach the beginning of the ascent to the plateau, the height is 6850. Visibility is even worse, we are guided by rocky chain. We make an informed decision to turn around and go down, for a number of significant reasons. Tired, exhausted, we got to Camp-3, moved into tents and sleep.... Today we went down to Camp-1, the participants got acquainted with the avalanche danger closer than we would like, a small board came down over the "Frying Pan"... It's snowing in the Camp 1 now. The mountain shows itself! Treat the mountains with respect and awe...

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Our group made an attempt to climb Lenin Peak. The wind forecast for 6500 promised 30 km/h, but in real life at 6200 the wind was so strong that we were thrown down the slope.  We decided to go down to the third camp. Tomorrow the forecast is a little better, we will try again.  But the gap in the weather for the next few days is not visible at all! The weather changes every day and what we see on the websites, unfortunately, does not correspond to reality! And now we're playing a guessing game. The mountain shows character and does not allow climbers.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The group of the 7 Summits Club climbed to Camp 3 at a height of 6100. The assault on Lenin Peak is planned depending on the weather.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The team of the 7 Summits Club climbed to the Camp-3 at a height of 6100. This is the final rotation before the summit assault.  The weather is sunny but windy. We are resting now in tents. Tomorrow we will return to Camp-1 for rest and preparation for the ascent.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Camp 1 Lenin peak is in touch! Today  we held much-needed classes on ice this season! We learned how to use the jumar and the "basket", mentally thanked the French for these devices! We have worked out the movement in crampons on the glacier and now we are deservedly resting, recuperating! At night we go out to Camp 2, there will be no connection there. The weather is windy, the mountain shows character! We can only hope for the best.