Lenin Peak(7134) - Page 7

Long  bad weather did not allow the team of the 7 Summits Club reach the top of the Pamir seventhousander Lenin Peak. But members  got an experience of going into space. These were impressions of the days spent in the assault camp. High mountain showed its brutal power, but it remains the same attractive…

The message from a guide of the 7 Summits Club:

So, tomorrow we're going to Mont Blanc! Before that, we fruitfully climbed the rocks in the area of Brevent. And yesterday we moved to the glacier zone, to the Valley Blanche, where we went to Point Lachenal and Lawrence ridge. After spending the night in the refuge Cosmique, we went down to Chamonix. Today is a day of rest, and tomorrow night we start for climb Mont Blanc!

The group the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Olga Rumyantseva and Vladimir Kotlyar resting in camp 1 (4100) before attempting to climb Lenin Peak. And we can admire a variety of photos sent from the Pamirs…

On the eve the group completed acclimatization rotation, spending a night in camp 3 at an altitude of 6100. 10 group members and two guides are now ready to storm the summit.

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Kyrgyzstan:

Salute, friends! Our group cheerfully climbed to the first camp to a height of 4400. Stunningly beautiful trek, great weather and the crossing on horseback across the river made for us a gorgeous day…

Photos of Ziabutin Gadjimirzaev

Olga Rumyantseva, the 7 Summits Club guide: we start the season at Lenin peak. Today Vladimir Kotlyar and I fly to Osh. And the next day we meet our first very large group. In total there will be 14 people.

 However, two members of this group, Maxim and Lena decided to fly in advance to better acclimatize. They're already sending us pictures from the base camp and waiting for us.

So far, they like everything, especially how they are fed. They even managed to get up to the peak of Mommies.

The command of the second expedition of 7 summits Club climbed the Lenin Peak. Participants: Vladimir Belkovich, Alexander Utvenko, Alexander Sobolenko, Natalia Matusova and their guide Alexander Abramov. See the photos...

Fully gallery (45 photos)

August 6th,  representatives of the 7 Summits Club Dmitry Khodak and NadejdaUsovich in the group company Aksay successfully climbed to the top of Lenin Peak. Congratulations! Season at Lenin Peak continues. Interest in this mountain this year has increased. With excellent service, our company  has this year almost one hundred percent success.

Hello! Abramov Alexander informs  directly from the summit  of Lenin peak. Second team of the 7 Summits Club climbed to the top. It  is Belkovich Vladimir, Sasha Utvenko, Sasha Sobolenko, Natasha Matusova and their guide Abramov Alexander. So.... Perfect weather, visibility, in fact, "thousand upon thousand", almost no wind. We're very, very lucky...

We spent two extra nights in the high camps. But we were lucky to catch the weather. Well done! Yay! Our epic peak Lenin for this year is over. I hope to come down alive and well at base camp. Bye!

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from Lenin peak. Yesterday there was very bad weather, the 4th of August. It was snowing hard,  it was a furious wind. Today the wind calms down, the weather is good, no clouds. Today, our team moved to the third camp, the upper camp at 6100 meters on top of the peak Razdelnaya. And then our team tomorrow, even tonight is going to go on a summit bid. We are promised very good weather, no wind. There are about 40 people who are going to go tonight. So I hope that we will succeed, all will be well. Everybody, bye!

Just called Alexander Abramov from the camp 1 (4400) at the peak of Lenin. All six participants of the second group feel great and ready to start tomorrow to climb to camp 2. And then they will go to the peak Razdelnaya, to camp 3 and then to the summit. However, at the moment, there is heavy snow. If until the morning  it does not stop, the outing will have to postpone for one day. Then the assault will occur on 6 August...

Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from the camp 1 under Lenin peak: the Second group met with their leader Alexander Abramov to camp 1 (4400м). It was the 30th of July. Alexander went with the first group after a successful ascent, and the second group had a great acclimatization under the leadership of Valery Myasoedov. All six participants in the second group climbed the peak Yuhina (5100) and at peak (6100). And spent two nights in the camp 5300. Now the second group together with Abramov resting on the 4400 and prepare for the ascent. The assault is scheduled for 4-5 August.

Photos of Natalia Matusova:

Photos of Ivan Pominov from the first group:

Hello,  7 Summits Club! Today, despite the strong wind, rainy weather, all our team members, namely the three guides and six members of the first group, climbed to the summit of Lenin Peak. It was very hard. To be honest, I didn't expect it would be so hard... But the team showed fantastic and everyone, absolutely, went up to the top

I am very happy...

 We climbed by two teams. The first team came exactly at 2 p.m. (Bishkek), the second at about 3.20. Well, in general, everything is fine... all  are alive! Beginning descent down. Once again, congratulations! It was not a very simple mission...

And below we are already waiting for our second group to Lenin Peak. Also six participants, three guide. Let's see what the outcome of this adventure.

All bye everyone! Big thanks to the company "Aksai", for a great service and support. All: guides, link and hopefully not a rescue, not a rescue! See you!

Later: the group successfully descended to the camp 3 at an altitude of 6100.

That's who was part of the heroic group:

Anton Konobeev

Konstantin Lavrentiev

Alexander Logachev

Oleg Pimenov

Ivan Pominov

Ramil Badretdinov

Guides:

Alexander Abramov

Andrey Mishaka

Oleg Turaev

Natalia Matusova wrote on Facebook:

Lenin peak base camp (3800). Meet at the end of the table, just having down from the summit of Lenin peak and had 25 first ascent to this peak, Boris Korshunov. This veteran of nearly 82 years (born 31 August 1935), it is a unique 9-time "Snow leopard".

At the time, Boris participated in biological programs of the Institute of Space Biology and Medicine for detection of possibilities of the human body. In particular: the tolerance of man -60°C in a light suit, with vigorous blowing. So you want to wish to each of us in his 82 preserved health the Snow Leopard, zest for life and active life position!

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from the first camp under Lenin peak. Our entire team of six participants and three guides,  is going tomorrow to start for summit assault . Tomorrow we climb to a height of 5300 meters, to the so-called "Frying Pan". Then we will ascend to camp at 6100 and from there to the summit. The weather is quite good. Yesterday, however, it was snowing, but today it got cold. The Peak opened up, it waiting for us. So after a three day wait for information from us.

Also today our second team arrived in Achik-Tash.  Valeriy Myasoedov is the main guide,  with six members and two local guides. When I go to the top, and I hope I'll go to the top. I'll go down and going to go with this team for the second time.

So we have only  good news. All people feel good. The prognosis is excellent.

Bye everyone! Wait for the news!

Alexander Abramov, the leader of the expedition of the 7 summits Club on Lenin peak: Today our group spent the night at the altitude of 5300 m, the so-called "Pan". Basically, all the participants feel good. Now we  are climbing to the Razdelnaya Peak – 6100 meters. The goal is acclimatization. Today in the evening we go down to 5300 and tomorrow to the camp 1. And we will wait for the arrival of the second group. They arrive the 23rd to Osh and 27th our two groups should meet. OK. Good luck with 5800, from peak Lenin!

Hello! Alexander Abramov from the expedition to Lenin peak, from the camp at 4400. Our whole team feels good. Tomorrow we are going to go to the camp at an altitude of 5300 meters. It will be the first real climbing day with crampons and ropes. Weather, frankly, is not good. Today is the first time I saw the summit of peak Lenin. And it is now again closed. Well, after lunch usually is snowing. Even with the thunderstorm. But we will hope for the best. While acclimatization – it is no worry. In a week when we go climbing, we'll see. All is good here: a lovely camp, great food. We all like to treat us just fine. Well, in General, everything is fine, don't worry. Photos can't send as a call via satellite. Mobile communications are not working. The mood is great, the team is good and it is called "ninja Turtles" because we go slow, like turtles. All bye everyone! Until next communication, I hope with 5300!

In preparation for the expedition Everest – 2018, for acclimatization before climbing Lenin peak, our team made a "first ascent" at the peak Grekov, a height of 4000 meters. We named this peak in honor of our friend (Dmitry Grekov – head of the company AK-SAI). This is just gendarme in the crest of Petrovskiy peak. Tomorrow our company goes out of Achik-Tash to the  Camp 1 at the altitude of 4400 meters.

Our team, having driven 6 hours from Osh, came to the camp Achik-Tash.  It is a very comfortable and thoughtful camp of the AK-SAI company. We are all very pleased. Also the weather is bad now. It is raining.

I met hare a lot of friends. Basically they are guides my age ) and younger. Of course, Visily Pivtsov is  in the middle of it. Our team went to the sauna. We have a very good guide named Andrey. The team are friendly. Tents for accommodation are excellent. You can stand in growth. Everything is fine. Tomorrow we will go on Petrovskogo peak.

Alexander Abramov, the leader of the expedition 7 summits Club on Lenin peak: Today our team, all the participants gathered in Osh. We went to the Museum located in the cave. Then climbed the whole mountain Suleimanca. After lunch we visited the famous local market. And we even managed to pack for tomorrow's departure on Lenin peak. Everyone is feeling great. For a while!

So a season of climbing groups of the 7 summits Club on Lenin peak began. This Saturday four members of the first expedition arrived in Osh, they are now in the base camp and started to acclimatization. In total we will have 6 groups, two of them under the leadership of Alexander Abramov.

By the way, you can still join the August group to the ascent program with local guides.

The program