Lenin Peak(7134) - Page 8

The desire to climb Everest could be understand for almost everybody, that is,  for all normal people. There are a proven way to prepare: to ask the advice of the most important experts. And the best is not just to ask for advice, but go together in the mountains, to gain experience and learn from an experienced comrade necessary knowledge. Next summer we invite you to take part in a unique event - an expedition to Lenin Peak led by the most experienced climber on Everest in Russia, head of the 13 expeditions to the highest peak of the world,  master of sports Alexander Abramov.

The 7 Summits Club president seven times was up at the highest point of Mount Everest. Expedition to Lenin Peak under his guidance specifically planned as a stage of preparation for the ascent to Everest. Do not miss this rare opportunity!

Lenin Peak (Avicenna) - majestic mountain and valuable in itself. It cannot be underestimated, which, however, applies to any mountain. So prepare seriously: Train your body and mind, pick equipment, read literature etc…

Expedition to Lenin Peak under the leadership of Alexander Abramov

PROGRAM (in Russian)

We will also continue the implementation of our standard of climbing to Lenin Peak program under the guidance of our friends, the best guides of the Central Asian republics

PROGRAM (in Russian)

 Nadejda Usovich participated in the expedition to the Lenin peak in early August. The expedition did not achieve its main goal. Due to bad weather conditions the climbers returned home without the summit. Instead, they got a lot of impressions and experience of high-altitude climbing…

 From her diary…

Day 14.

All night the wind was blowing and it was snowing. Since the hour of the night,  groups woke up one by one, exchanging a few words, and, obviously, delayed outing, the weather was bad. By 5 am a group of St. Petersburg climbers ventured to go to the assault, but they have not succeeded to reach the top in this day. There was a strong wind swept up the entire trail all the way and they had to make snow trails knee that takes a lot of strength. Other groups have postponed exit at night. By 7 am established fine weather, the sun was shining and it was even more or less heat. I slept most of the day, compensating for a sleepless night. By 7 pm the weather began to deteriorate again.

Day 15.

All night the wind blew a hellish and snowing. At times it seemed that the tent will take, as the house of Elli. Again, starting with the one in the morning, here and there flashing lights, there were heard a short dialogues and all subsided. I rearranged the alarm for an hour before 5am. Two my halves fought, one wished that the wind abated, and with peace of mind to go down. Another eagerly prayed to the wind ceased, and we finally came to the assault.

 We came out of the tent at 5 am, still a strong wind blew, but the snow had stopped, the view of Peak Lenin was excellent. The clouds were under our feet, and on the horizon, a thin strip of scarlet doing amazing beauty of the sunrise. I noted that some of the tents for the night drifted almost completely. At an altitude somewhere in 6300 could be seen three flashlight, nevertheless there were brave souls who dared to go out today to the assault. As it turned out later, they returned to the camp as early as 10 am, much frostbited.

 The forecast for the next 2 days were given the deterioration, sit next to an altitude of 6100 does not make any sense, and it was decided to begin the descent at 8am. The entire inside of the tent was covered with frost and any awkward movement, with its walls, attacked snowfall. All things were damp, at the feet of piled up a snowdrift. Several tents of our group had to dig out from the outside. It was bitterly cold, while a fixing crampons in fleece gloves, I froze all the.

All members of the group to the question «how are you?» - answered “never again”.

Down we ran almost happily. In camp 2 it was very warm and we stayed there for almost an hour, basking in the sun. This camp offers a great view on the top, I looked up to see around the ridge huge flags - the wind raged there until now, it was clear that to come in that day to the summit would be impossible, would there blew us away like dry leaves from the tin roof. By 3 pm we were down to camp 1, the descent took place without incident, though it was slow and tiring. By 5 pm again it threw the snow, but here, in a huge tent, its knock on the tent even gave some sense of comfort…

This year, climbers of the  7 Summits Club took part in four expeditions to Lenin Peak. Two have already been completed and two are underway. We wish the participants a successful ascent and safe descent! Congratulations to Natalia Kurgapkina - the first our climber in this season that reached the summit!

July 9^th  the first group of the 7 Summits Club fly in the Pamirs. A total of this season it  will be four groups  - a record number for our company. Lenin Peak - this is a great opportunity to really feel the altitude of the first step to the expeditionary mountaineering. Route at all its stages and components of the long hours worked by our hosting partners, in terms of logistics - everything clearly and without problems. But the decisive factor is still personal involvement of each person. The victory, if the Mountain let, will be a personal victory for everyone.

To credited ascent of Mount Abu Ibn Sina and get a certificate, you need to provide photos with a bust of Vladimir Lenin, which is on top of this mountain. This picture has been successfully done by a team of the Seven Summits Club on July 27 at 14:00 local time. At the top were: Valera, Dima, Maxim and I, Sergei. High altitude has made with our team very tough selection. Lena was waiting in the camp at 4400. Liana took a wise decision not to continue climbing in the camp of 6100, due to the worsening of bronchitis. Michail decided to stop climbing after a strong cold wind and snow hurt his eyes.

12-hour climb from Camp 6100 to the summit has required a lot of energy. And the return was very tense. But now everything is behind us, the entire team is at the base camp, at 3660, on the grass. All is well. Summiters are happy. Not summiters are happy that managed to maintain health. Best regards! Sergei Larin.

Hello, Seven Summits!

News from Pamir. Our group spent three nights in the camp on 5300. We waited for weather. Now there was a probability of a weather window and we move to the camp on 6100, at top of Razdelnaya Peak. Everything is normal …. At us everything is normal. All members feel well. Only one - Lena remained in camp on 4400. It is necessary to pay her tribute. Her speed movement is a little bit more slowly than ours. And she offered the interests, for the sake of interests of group.

I will contact where it will possible.

Sergey Larin

Sergei Larin:

Hi, Seven Summits! Take the information from the expedition to the peak of Avicenna. Quickly flew two days of rest in the base camp at an altitude of 3600. And now we are advancing upward, already for climbing  assault. The weather is constantly changing, the weather is unstable, so we had to wait a  “window”  in the upper camps.

The 7 Summits Club guide Sergey Larin reports: .... Now we have 6:53 a.m.. We go down from the camp on Razdelnaya Peak, from an altitude of 6100 meters. There we held a successful acclimatization overnight. Our whole team feels good. The only thing - Elena has not participated in the outing, she is now in the camp at 4400. She is still normal, having no signs of altitude sickness. Just her body needs more time to acclimatize.

Up 6000 meters, the weather turned bad, now there was a strong wind - even blew off some tents. But we are in good health and went down, to rest. After a rest, we'll have to make way to the summit. Today we will try to go down as low as possible. Best regards!

Pictures by Andrey Almazov

Dmitry Tomilin after climbing Elbrus went on an expedition to Lenin Peak, led by Sergei Larin. In the group - six members, who all met in the city of Osh. July 13th they had their first acclimatization. Everything OK. Notes read in Russian.

Hi, Seven Summits! It Sergei Larin says. Today, the expedition to the peak of Abu Ibn Sina, or Lenin Peak began. Six members of the 7 Summits Club arrived at the base camp Achik-Tash, which is located at an altitude of 3600 meters. All are doing well, all is well. The only thing - in Kyrgyzstan is expected to heat waves. In the coming days we will have acclimatization and 2-3 nights stay at the base camp Achik-Tash. By!

It was only one chance, only one day with good weather.

The weather forecast was very bad, but in the night it became clear that conditions may be mild and more convenient for climb. About 30 climbers started early in the morning and most of them reached the summit of Lenin Peak. Among then members of the 7 Summits Club expedition led by Sergey Bogomolov.

A long period of bad weather changed plans of a group of climbers of the 7 Summits Club led by our guide, a famous Russian high altitude climber Sergey Bogomolov. Two from three climbers cancelled the program due health and weather problems. Now Sergey with a client stay at the third camp at 6100, waiting for good weather.

A group of the 7 Summits Club led by Sergey Bogomolov finished the first part of the pgrogram. It was acclimatization period, they reached an altitude 6100 meters and went down to the base camp. See some pictures from Sergey...

The group from the 7 Summits Club led by Sergey Bogomolov went down to the base camp. They finished their aclimatization period. Everything is OK, after some rest the team lpan to climb Lenin Peak.

November, 24 Eurasian Association of Mountaineering and Climbing (EAMA) appointed the first in history champion of the world in high-altitude mountaineering class. The judiciary brigade consisted of authoritative climbers ofUSSR: E.Ilinsky (Kazakhstan) - Chief Justice, A.Shabanov (Uzbekistan),

V.Shataev (EAMA), V.Yatsko (Ukraine), A.Horoshih (Russia), D.Grekov (Kyrgyzstan), K.Valiev, D.Muravev, B.Studenin, A.Timofeev (Kazakhstan), A.Skopin (Kazakhstan- Chief Secretary).

Competition is open to everyone, from all over the world. World title is quite official, but not all-world recognized yet.

Eurasian Association of Mountaineering and Climbing was founded in 1992 as the successor to the Mountaineering Federation of theUSSR. However, its work has long been modest. In recent years, an activity of EAMA significantly increased. Finally, they managed to normalize relations with the FAR and start a new life.

High-altitude mountaineering class World Championship 2012

1st place (7.00 points) - The team of Kazakhstan Mountaineering Federation: leader and head coach Vassily Pivtsov. Partners: Ildar Gabbasov, Alexander Sofrygin. For the ascent to the summit of Khan Tengri (6995 m). via the center of the North Face, 12-20 August. 6B grade.

The group led by Victor Bobok successfully reached the summit of Lenin Peak. Here are some photos from this expedition. Summiters: Andrew Filkov, Alexander Morozov, Lilia Boguchara and Victor Bobok.

Our guide Victor Bobok reports from the slopes of Lenin Peak. Today at 2:00 p.m. the full group reached the summit of Lenin Peak. Now they go down. Everything is OK!

After breakfast we went out on the slopes of the peak Petrovsky, past the cemetery of climbers and paragliders, and paying tribute to thos brave and selfless people. Ahead was a steep grassy slopes and talus. We were able to gain a height of 400 meters in 2 hours, in a good pace without shortness of breath and other signs of lack of acclimatization. We went up into several smaller peaks in a scree ridge. Above 4000m the weather turned bad. The descent took place without incident under the falling snow, but at an acceptable visibility. Everything goes according to plans and with absolutely right acclimatization.

With regards to our family and friends!

Igor Pohvalin, Andrew Filkov, Alexander Morozov, Lilia Boguchara and Victor Bobok.(guide of the 7 Summits Club)

Hello everyone, this is Dmitry Ermakov from the Lenin Peak. I guess this is my last message from this expedition. Today we made an attempt to climb the mountain, and ascend to the height of 6700м, but, unfortunately, there were squally wind and we were not able to continue climbing and return to Camp 3. All are very tired, exhausted and don't want to make a second attempt, so it was decided to go down and return to Moscow.

Unfortunately, the mountain didn’t let us a chance to climb till the summit. But it is better to return 10 times than do not return once. All alive and safe, all is well. Good-bye, see you in Moscow.

"Hello Moscow, Dmitry Ermakov speaking. We are located at 6100 m, in the third camp. Tomorrow, if all goes well, we will go to the top. But, according to the forecast, it is possible that tonight will be snow. If the weather will not be acceptable, then tomorrow we have one over night here in the third camp on 6100m.
Today we went from one Camp 2 to Camp 3. It was very hot, the same time yesterday fell 10 centimeters of fresh snow, making it difficult to climb, but in principle is reached, all right. Now we are in tents, all is well.  Bye to everyone".