Elbrus(5642) - Page 57

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev took the high fifth place (80 participants) in the today competition Red Fox Elbrus Race - "Vertical Kilometer". In front of - only world leaders and two Russians. We consider this as a success. Come on, Artem, on! Good luck in the race to Elbrus.

Women.
1. Larissa Sobaleva (Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky) 0:56:51
2. Jeanne Vokueva (St. Petersburg) 0:57:00
3. Aleksandra Dzik (Poland) 1:03:26
4. Elena Bolkhovitinov (Penza) 1:06:45
5. Nadezhda Korolyatina (Krasnoyarsk) 1:14:25

Men.

1. Marco De Gasperi (Italy) 0:44:39
2. Luis Alberto Hernando Alzaga (Spain) 0:45:47
3. Alexander Bolkhovitin (Penza) 0:51:25
4. Vitaly Shkel (Samara) 0:52:14
5. Artem Rostovtsev (Korolev) 0:54:51

Vsevolod Pulya. The first chair lift and two trails opened March 18 in the North Caucasus resort of Arkhyz. Alexander Khloponin, presidential envoy to the North Caucasus Federal District, was the first skier to come down the slopes. In a celebratory speech afterwards, he noted that while this was certainly a signal event, “there is still much more to do.”

Jam made from pine cones, Cossack fur hats, mountain herbs for tea drinking, sweet homemade wine: these are the sorts of souvenirs tourists bring back from Arkhyz. At local stands they can also buy refrigerator magnets showing snowboarders and skiers against dramatic mountain backdrops. In reality, however, there aren’t any ordinary skiers on the slopes yet. Construction of the Arkhyz Resort has only just begun: instead of hotels there are improvised camp sites, there is almost no cell phone coverage, and there was no point paving the 8.5 miles road to the resort ahead of Sunday’s opening since the heavy construction trucks would destroy it in a matter of weeks.

Before the construction began, the only people who came here in winter were extreme skiers with plenty of money – or at least enough to hire a helicopter to drop them at the top of Arkhyz’s virgin trails. In the summer, mountain biking and rock climbing without the necessary infrastructure attracted only the daredevils.

But Arkhyz, which gets some name recognition from a widely distributed mineral water of the same name, is a resort with prospects. In the local dialect, Arkhyz means “beautiful girl,” and a glance at the landscape is enough to see why. Arkhyz is also in a very convenient location: less than four hours by air from most countries in Europe, Asia and the Middle East. The nearest international airport, in Mineralye Vody, is only 125 miles away; the region also plans to build some smaller airports for private planes.

A Russian Les Arcs

Many of those who attended the opening ceremony at Arkhyz sported hats and scarves bearing the Latin words per angusta ad augusta, which means “through ravines to the heights.” The real heights at Arkhyz are still to be scaled. The new four-seat chairlift takes skiers up only 377 feet, to an altitude of 5,800 feet; the resort itself sits at an altitude of 5,400 feet above sea level. The first two trails are 2,200 and 3,600 feet long. The next stage — construction of five hotel complexes with 700 rooms – will be completed by this fall, in time for the start of the new ski season. By then, the combined length of open ski trails will be almost four miles. These figures may seem modest to inveterate downhill skiers, but these are just trial balloons. Arkhyz has more ambitious plans. “The real work on this resort will begin at the end of the year when we propose specific sites to investors,” Khloponin declared at a post-ski press conference.

Related :

The Caucasus – Ancient traditions and a complex history

Fighting terrorism with tourism

Time to remember, heal and build a good name
The builders say that when it’s finished, Arkhyz will be comparable to Les Arcs, the French ski resort in the Alps. All told, eight years from now, Arkhyz will consist of four tourist complexes housing a total of 24,000 guests; 54 ski lifts able to carry 45,000 skiers a day; аnd ski trails totaling 167 milres in length. All of this will be available with a single ski pass. At Resorts of the North Caucasus (KSK), the company in charge of developing the tourist cluster in the North Caucasus, specialists say that once Arkhyz is finished and in full operation, it should draw more than half a million skiers a year.

The first goal of the resort is to make downhill skiing affordable for averages Russians. “Resorts in the North Caucasus cluster should not compete among themselves,” said Alexei Nevsky, general director of KSK. “We have to develop a single concept, a single marketing and price policy.”

This project also has a social mission: it will create 10,000 jobs in the Republic of Karacheyvo-Cherkessia, according president of the republic Rashid Temrezov. At any rate, local grandmothers are ready to take in guests: their homemade meat pies and wool socks are already selling well.

Nature and history

Facts and figures
1,440 and 3,300 meters (4,700 feet-10,800 feet) above sea level is the difference in altitudes in Arkhyz Valley. The highest points: Mt. Pshish and Mt. Sophia
60 glaciers and mountain lakes are located in the valley
12 waterfalls crash down from the Sophia Glacier
170 km (105 miles) is the length of the resort’s main waterway: the Zelenchuk River
+14.8 Celsius (58 Farenheit) is the average air temperature in summer
- 5.6 Celsius (21 Farenheit) is the average temperature in winter
0,5-2,5 meters (18 inches-8 feet) is the average thickness of the snow cover
The Arkhyz Gorge is protected from strong winds and blessed with a mild climate. Its alpine slopes are covered with dense stands of fir trees and pine trees and it is the home of 26 natural mineral springs.

Meanwhile, for non-skiing tourists or those who want a break from the slopes, there are some unique local excursions. A mysterious natural icon of Christ is carved right on the steep left bank of the Zelenchuk River. Christ’s face looks down on ancient churches and the remains of the ruined city of Maas. The oldest of the churches was built 1,200 years ago, making it the most ancient religious edifice in Russia.

Thirty-seven miles to the west of Arkhyz is Adyukh Mountain, which has a small tower on its summit. The mountain and its fortress were named in honor of a girl who, as legend has it, was so unhappy in love that she threw herself off the mountain top; another legend claims that she threw off the rope ladder on which her unfaithful lover, a horse thief, was climbing. Visitors able to climb the 730 steps up to the top will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Zelenchuk River and surrounding valley — the horizon stretches away to Abkhazia.

At the foot of Mt. Adyukh is the Adyukh Palace Hotel, whose owner is a veteran collector of antique automobiles. His collection includes a 1950s Mercedes, and old UAZ that has not driven even one mile in all its 40 years of existence, and a complete collection of Volgas, Chaikas and ZIMs.

A new cluster

The Legend of Caucasus - watch video
Arkhyz is KSK’s debut project. By 2020, KSK plans to have fully developed this tourist cluster with world-class ski resorts throughout the North Caucasus. Meanwhile, Dagestan’s Caspian Sea coast will be dotted with beach resorts. When construction of the cluster is complete, it will boast a combined total of 680 miles of downhill ski trails and 227 ski lifts, as well as hotels, apartments and cottages for 102,500 people.

Northern Caucasus resorts map + info. Click to view infographics
KSK anticipates that this cluster will receive between 5 and 10 million vacationers every year. The total volume of federal investment in the transport infrastructure and communications of resorts in the North Caucasus should equal 60 billion rubles ($20 billion). The Sinara Group, an investor in and builder of Arkhyz, put up 1 billion of the 3 billion rubles already spent on building the resort and its infrastructure. The project’s financing is being conducted on the principles of a government-private partnership. The project will receive a total of 80 billion rubles ($2.7 billion) in investment.

These Russian investors are expected be followed by foreign investors; investors from France and South Korea have already signed agreements on a joint enterprise, according to Nevsky. He confirmed that the South Korean company Korea Western Power is ready to invest $1 billion in the cluster’s electricity supply network, while the investment bank Singapore Nexus means to invest in the development of hotels.

 Winter season on Elbrus smoothly into spring and summer’s

Winter leaves Elbrus. No full satisfaction, but it was not disappointed. Sometimes it was not enough snow. Sometimes it was felt that not everyone decided to come. Again, the terrible tragedy of climbers on Elbrus ... But there was a lot of good. There are a lot changes for the better. And in the safety order, and in lifts. Our favorite hotel Povorot was worked almost "at five". And we look forward with optimism of the summer. However, it is spring. And we are waiting for the May holidays, waiting for the competition Elbrus Race of the Red Fox. It is always a big event. And this year it will record number of participents.

Latest news:
Completed a series of festivals in the Elbrus region. Management has prepared the region this year, a lot of pleasant surprises for the tourists. From 25 to 31 March it was held contest for ethnic artAltyn Square with the participation of teams fromRussia and CIS countries. On March 31 the baton took Elbrus Festival 2012, sponsored by the well-known musicians from Moscow and St. Petersburg: Michael Bashakov, Yuri Garin, Michael Kalinkin, Arthur Gladyshev, Dmitry Yurkov, the band "Kings of the Kitchen." Did the weather. Sunny days were followed by heavy snowfalls, so that skiers have an excellent opportunity for the free ride on the Cheget, and to be ridden on groomed slopes of Elbrus. And in the evening all gathered at the "Povorot."

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http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12s/wfeature-elbrus

Elbrus
Casey O'Malley Posted on: April 6, 2012

[Photo] Mt. Elbrus courtesy of Mountain Madness/Savejko Photo.
It has been over one year since Mount Elbrus (5642m), Europe's member of the seven summits, was targeted in a terrorist attack. On February 18, 2011, two unidentified men stopped a van carrying five Moscow tourists to the Elbrus area—the men opened fire on the passengers after claiming to be plainclothes policemen. Three of the passengers died; two were hospitalized. Later that day, a bomb damaged a support tower for a cable car that travels up the side of Mount Elbrus. Thirty of the forty-five cars were damaged, but no people suffered injuries. The next morning, Russian officials diffused three improvised bombs containing 70kg of TNT, all found in a single car parked in the parking lot of a hotel at the base of the mountain.

The attacks happened just two weeks after Russian Federation President Dmitriy Medvedev unveiled a $15 billion plan to establish five ski resorts in the war-torn Caucasus Mountains, which guard the border between Russia and Georgia. Additionally, development for the 2014 Winter Olympics, slated to take place in Sochi, Russia, is in full swing less that 250km to the west.

In response to the February 2011 attacks, President Medvedev launched a fierce anti-terrorist campaign in the Caucasus. Military strikes canvassed the valleys. Regional governor Alexander Khloponin ordered a halt on tourist entry or exit to the area, claiming that the government needed to "clean up the territory" and only then "explain and show to everyone that it is safe in the Caucasus." A strong military presence covered the area and non-residents were not allowed to pass certain checkpoints. The Baksan Valley, which surrounds the southern aspect of Elbrus was closed off to all visitors.

The majority of Mount Elbrus's thousands of yearly visitors use local guides. The most popular southern route is often completed in as little as seven days, with chair lifts and snow cats carrying climbers sometimes as high as 4600m, depending on snow conditions. There are three successive chairlifts that constitute the beginning of this route: it was the second of the three, between stations Stary Krugozor and Mir, that was bombed. This moderate and popular route—the bread and butter of local companies' Elbrus tours—was unreachable all of 2011 because of the Baksan Valley closure.

In a typical seasons, routes from the north and west are far less travelled. These routes are more challenging and take more time to complete. They lack the permanent facilities, like the barrel huts and the "world's nastiest outhouse" (so dubbed by Outside magazine in 1993), that are encountered along the southern route.

The southern route remained closed for the entire 2011 season, leaving climbers to try the more technically demanding and less frequented northern and western routes. Military checkpoints sprouted along access roads to base camp on the northern side of Elbrus, enforcing inconsistent access rules. "Checkpoints on the north side were pretty much for show," writes Gleb Myasnikov, a guide who lives in the area. "One could go around the closed area on basic roads and it was not even a violation." Some companies directed their groups on a 90km detour around checkpoints. Sometimes with a cash payment officers would allow groups to pass by the checkpoints.

By August 2011, the northern route was officially opened and military checkpoints disbanded. The southern route was declared open on October 28, 2011. Though federal and local government promises no more lengthy access closures, many companies advise flexibility in route choice since the situation may change unpredictably. "This is the Caucasus, something is always happening," writes Myasnikov, whose company has not planned any short seven-day trips for the 2012 season. Instead they have opted for longer trips which give groups the flexibility to choose either the south or north route depending on access conditions.

The social climate of the Caucasus was rocked politically and economically by these measures. "The area is still dangerous may be even more than before...due to the year-long economic blockade, the local people became more desperate and chance of being robbed or killed for the reason of robbery is very obvious," writes Alex Trubachev, a guide based in Moscow whose company has halted their Elbrus tours. "Locals have lost everything—two seasons of nothing," agrees Myasnikov.

The region is not a stranger to conflict. Ethnic, religious and political tension dominate the history of the Causcasus; six separate wars have plagued the area since 1988. Elbrus itself has been a platform for political messages many times before.

In 1929 the burgeoning Soviet government founded an official mountaineering section of their tourism bureau, and Elbrus became the star of their programs. Over the next decades, the government sponsored mountaineering camps (alp'lageri) and training programs in all of the Soviet Union's mountain ranges to give citizens access to the mountains and training to reach their summits. The Elbrus region hosted the first alp'lageri, built in 1929, and many Soviet citizens visited each year to begin their training as climbers. With its moderate, non-technical climbs to the summit, it was reasonable for beginners to reach the summit after a brief training period—and its summit was the tallest on the continent. With every successful climb of Elbrus, Soviet citizens were standing on the top the Europe, and it was the Soviet government that made their ascents possible. The government portrayed each successful climb as a testament to the opportunities and enrichment that were offered to its citizens.

What is seen as contemporary Russian mountaineering style—large groups and siege-style climbing—is rooted in the curriculum of these structured Soviet mountaineering camps. The Soviet program focused on getting as many people involved in the sport as possible to manifest the government's Communist ideals. This meant that not only did many people visit the mountaineering camps each summer, but many people would participate in group climbs as well. For example, a 1935 climb of Elbrus saw 638 farmers reach the summit of Elbrus in a literal display of the heights that the lowly proletariat could reach with the support of their new government.

Massive group climbs became the staple on Elbrus, with a record being set in 1960 when an enormous party of 1,395 people ascended the mountain in honor of Vladimir Lenin's 90th birthday. The party placed a bust of Lenin on the summit (now only a concrete base remains).

During World War II, Elbrus invited international political statements. The German Gebirgsjaeger Unit, an elite mountaineering military division, left a Nazi flag on the summit in the summer of 1942. No battles occurred on the slopes of the mountain, and anecdotes report that Hitler was furious with the unit for wasting their time on such a stunt. But the lure of a flag on the highest mountain in Europe was unavoidable. After German forces left the area in January 1943, the Soviet army's first action in the Caucasus was to send a military group to the summit of the mountain to replace the swastika flag with the Soviet Union's hammer-and-sickle banner.

But these historical demonstrations on Elbrus were not violent. And that's what changed in the February 2011 attacks on Elbrus. "2011 was the first time that tourists and climbers became victims," writes Myasnikov. "Understand—Elbrus is a ski resort, not a war zone...but there are rebels in the Caucasus and to them, this is just their business. Nothing personal. And that may never change."

Today (11.03. 2012) Krasnodar hosted a meeting chaired by Russian President Dmitry Medvedev dedicated to the development of Russian resorts. The meeting was also attended by Deputy Prime Minister of Russia Alexander Khloponin, Economic Development Minister Elvira Nabiullina and Minister of Sport, Tourism and Youth Policy Vitaly Mutko, as well as heads of the regions of South and North Caucasus districts and representatives of foreign companies.

After receiving the data from Vitaly Mutko that only 59 subjects of the Russian Federation have developed a tourism program, Dmitry Medvedev has demanded to develop a realistic program for the development of tourism in every region of the Russian Federation, stressing that "there should be mutual responsibility."

The leaders of Dagestan and Ingushetia asked the president to increase the authorized capital of the "Resorts of the North Caucasus" in connection with the recent inclusion of these two republics in the program, RIA Novosti reports. Medvedev instructed the Minister of Economic Development Elvira Nabiullina to prepare a final report with calculations of how much money will it take to develop resorts in the two republics.

Nabiullina promised to prepare a report, but added that according to the preliminary assessment, "the inclusion of Dagestan in this program will cost about 40 billion rubles from the federal budget alone."

Russian President Dmitry Medvedev supported the presidential envoy to the North Caucasus Federal District Alexander Khloponin on the need to develop the Caspian coastal area with beach resorts.

The participants of the meeting discussed a wide variety of issues related to the development of tourism in Russia.

France ready to invest in N Caucasus

 French companies are prepared to massively invest in helicopter building and also in the hospitality and holiday industries on Russian territory.

French presidential envoy for Russia ties Jean-Pierre Thomas spoke about this at a meeting with President Dmitry Medvedev in Krasnodar in southern Russia on Sunday.

He sits on the board of a joint company which is hoping to attract at least $10bn worth of investment in the holiday industry in the Russian Caucasus.

(TASS)

Russia developing resorts in the North Caucasus

Foreign companies have invested over 3 billion U.S. dollars to develop resorts in the North Caucasus. Russian investors have contributed almost a similar amount. Russian President Dmitry Medvedev revealed these figures addressing a conference in the southern Russian city of Krasnodar dedicated to promoting tourism in the North Caucasus.

Several resort zones in Southern Russia united under the “Resorts of the North Caucasus” will be turned into winter sports and year-round resorts. These zones are Lagonaki, a beautiful plateau located in Krasnodar region and Adygee, Arkhyz in Karachaevo-Cherkesia, Elbrus-Bezengi in Kabardino-Balkaria, Mamison in Northern Ossetia-Alania, Matlas in Dagestan and Tsori and Armkhi in Ingushetia. A network of resorts will also appear along the Caspian Sea shore in Dagestan.

The “Resorts of the North Caucasus” are a grandiose project in terms of territory and the amount of construction work. The overall length of Alpine ski runs exceeds 1,100 kilometers. Despite difficulties, many investors, especially foreigners, expressed readiness to go into this project. This has become possible owing to the businesslike work of the government which has done a lot to attract investors and partners, says Dmitry Medvedev.

“A government mechanism supporting the project was developed and amendments were made to the federal law on special economic zones in the Russian Federation. This law paves the way for solving the most difficult tasks. There was no such mechanism before. The residents of tourist and recreation type economic zones in the North Caucasus enjoy tax and duty breaks. Concrete results of this activity can be seen even now. The construction of the year-round resort of Arkhyz is in full swing, and it plans to receive tourists in the winter season of 2012. Construction of other resorts is now underway,” says Dmitry Medvedev.

At present, some of the tourist projects in the North Caucasus have already worked out their business plans with leading foreign companies. Among these are the French bank Caisse des Depots et Consignations, South Korea’s state-run energy company Western Power and companies in Singapore. The prestigious MIRIM Asia Awards-2011 International Developers competition assessed the project, describing it as the best project for the future.

Despite the rosy picture there are many problems related to the involvement of investors and the launch of construction, says Dmitry Medvedev.

“Among these problems are providing the resorts with contemporary infrastructures, their transport accessibility, the construction of roads, railways and airports. All this is very important for the attraction of tourists to the North Caucasus and the Caspian Sea. We will have to reconstruct at least 6 existing airports and build four new ones. It’s crucial to increase the passenger flow. At present, the capacity of the airports in North Caucasus is about 20,000 passengers a day. But this figure has to be increased five times to implement the large project, Dmitry Medvedev said.

The “Resorts of North Caucasus” is a very expensive project. It is financed under the principle of government and private partnership. At present, only a part of the necessary amount has been collected. According to experts, investments in the North Caucus tourist project will be paid off in 5-10 years. In short, the profitability of the project is up to 15 percent.

On 4 March 2012 the body of Ukrainian mountaineer Maria Khitrikova was discovered of Mount Elbrus, Russia.

The news of young (a mere 21 years old) Ukrainian alpinist Maria Khitrikova whose body was discovered yesterday on Mount Elbrus, at 5642m the highest peak in Russia, comes directly from journalist Anna Piunova. Maria was guiding a group of alpinists and had summited Elbrus on 2 March when she waited for two companions who had fallen behind in poor conditions. One of these, Roman Kutsiy, has been rescued and transported to hospital while the search is still underway for Denis Lisov. For Maria though, as Anna Piunova recounts, unfortunately no hope remained.

"Two groups of 11 Ukrainian mountaineers summited Elbrus on March, 2nd. They were caught in poor weather on their way down and two dropped behind. Maria Khitrikova, who was guiding one of the groups, stopped and waited for them while the rest of the party successfully descended. Several hours later Maria was able to telephone the rescue services to say that they had lost their way. Poor weather meant that the helicopter could not be sent, however the rescuers set out in search.

During the next evening the rescue team located Roman Kutsiy (at 4200m?), one of the two guys Maria had waited for. He was evacuated to hospital and was diagnosed angina pectoris after spending a cold night and day lying down on a snow flank and eating snow. Details are currently unclear, but according to Roman they untied after three repeated falls, the terrain was icy and Maria lost one of her crampons. They all were depressed and ready for the worst.

Her father, the famous alpinist Vladimir Khitrikov, arrived late night on March, 3. During the next afternoon Maria's body was found at approximately 4700m to the left of the Pastukhov Cliffs. The rescue of Denis Lisov is under way.

21 year-old Maria Khitrikova was the daughter of the Soviet Union Champion Vladimir Khitrikov. She was the big hope of Ukrainian Mountaineering, one of the country's most talented and promising female climbers. Considered the "Wondergirl of high altitude mountaineering", she summited Elbrus aged 12, her first 7000er aged 16, her first 8000er aged 21. She won the Elbrus Race and climbed Pik Lenin (7134m), Khan Tengri (6995m), Ama Dablam (6812m), Pik Korzhenevskoy (7105), Gasherbrum I (8035m) and Gasherbrum II (8068m)."

Anna Piunova, www.mountain.ru

February, 9 Ludmila Korobeshko flew to Argentina. The next day she was followed by Ivan Dusharin and Maxim Shakirov. So practical implementation of the program "Alpari on top of the world" begins. The 7 Summits Club not only delegated to the program our director, but we take all organization and logistics. Alpari project can enter their place in the general history of the program Seven Summits. Here is a list of World and National records that our team can beat on success of the event:

1. Fastest collective (more than two people).

2. First all Seven by not classic routes.

3. First all Seven Summits by traverses.

4. The fastest female for the Seven Summits. At the moment the record is 360 days (Annabelle Bond, United Kingdom - Hong Kong)

5. The first TWICE of the 7 Summits for woman by Ludmila Korobeshko

All of them, of course records will be valid for Russia (Europe and CIS ....)

Actually it will be an absolute national record of speed for 7 summits.

And national age record for Ivan Dusharin - 65 years.

In Mendoza

Project Alpari: On Top of the World

Alpari has decided to take on a new challenge for the year 2012: planting the Alpari flag atop the tallest mountain on each continent. To accomplish this feat, we have put together a team consisting of three of the experienced mountain climbers from Russia has to offer. With this project, we are not only looking to expand our presence across the globe, to each of the world’s seven continents, but also to draw some attention to mountain climbing, a sport which has become something of a passion for many within our ranks.

“Mountain climbing as a spiritual journey… record-breaking climbs as a metaphor for achieving greater success in life,” commented Alpari Public Relations Director Dmitriy Tarasov. “This is something we can relate to. Alpari is a bona fide leader in the Forex industry. For us, there is no mountain too high.”

Mountain climbing is already somewhat of a tradition here at Alpari. As recently as 2010, a team of our employees took part in an expedition to Africa, planting the Alpari flag on the summit of Kilimanjaro. Not long before that, there was a trip to Mont Blanc. “Climbing mountains is a great tradition for us; one where we must overcome great difficulties, the cold and harsh living conditions. But we always manage,” said Alpari’s Chairman of the Board, Andrey Dashin.

No one in Russia has ever completed the world-famous “7 Summits” challenge in under a year. Alpari’s hand-picked team is looking to do just that!

We wish them good luck. And good weather !

Here’s the plan:

Aconcagua (South America): February 11-28 (18 days)

Kilimanjaro (Africa): March 7-13 (7 days)

Everest (Asia): April 11 – June 8 (59 days)

McKinley (North America): June 20 – July 10 (21 days)

Elbrus (Europe): September 1-7 (7 days)

Kosciuszko (Australia): November 3-7 (5 days)

Mount Vinson (Antarctica): December 1-19 (19 days)

ROUTES

Mount Aconcagua (6,962 m) – Although ascending Aconcagua often seems simple at first, this mountain is susceptible to sudden changes in weather and violent storms.

False Polish Traverse, descent by classic to Plaza de Mulos

Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) – Ernest Hemingway once sang the praises of Kilimanjaro, which promises to be the perhaps the warmest and least inhospitable climb for our team.

Umbwe route, descent by Marangu route

Mount Everest (8,848 m) – Each year, the world’s tallest mountain draws in hundreds of climbers looking to test their personal limits, and each year, many of these climbers end up paying the ultimate price.

New route traverse North Summit (Chagtse) – Main Peak.

Descent to the North Col and ABC camp

For Everest Traverse our team will be strengthened. Currently, Alexander Abramov (as a leader), Ludmila Korobeshko, Ivan Dusharin, Maxim Shakirov and Mingma Gelu plan to take part in the ascent. The route will start from the campsite Changtse on the left moraine of the Rongphu Shar Glacier (Changtse camp - 6000m). From there the group plan to climb to the North (North East) ridge and then to the summit of Changtse 7543 meters. Where exactly they will rise to the North East ridge of Changtsze it will be determined on the spot. There are several options. From the top of Changtsze descent leads by a steepslope via South Ridge on the North Col - 7000m. Then the group will use standard camps on the classic route at 7700 and 8300 meters. From there they will try to climb the main summit of Everest (8848 m). Way back to the North Col and down to the standard camp ABC at 6400 meters.

 From Jan Kielkowski. Mount Everest Massif

Акщь

Mount McKinley (6,194 m) – Known to native Alaskans as Denali (“the great one”), McKinley is the tallest mountain in the world measured base to peak. During the ascent, climbers must confront the bitter cold, an exhaustingly long climb and stringent legal restrictions, including a policy which requires all climbers to carry all of their “waste” back to base camp.

West Rib

Descent by Western Buttress route

Mount Elbrus (5,642 m) – Located in the Caucasus Mountains, Elbrus demands a great deal of focus and discipline from climbers. This guileful inactive volcano often surprises climbers with streaks of brutal winter weather and strong winds.

Traverse from the East (Irik Valley) Eastern Peak - Western Peak

Descent via the Khotiu-Tau Pass

Mount Kosciuszko (2,228 m) – Getting to this mountain is difficult, but the view from the top makes the trip worth it.

Route Main Ridge Track from Charlotte Pass

Descent to Thredbo

Mount Vinson (4,897 m) – Our climbers will come face-to-face with ice storms and some of the coldest weather on our planet to reach the highest peak in Antarctica.

Probably Rudi's Runway (Lang 1991) Route

The team

Ludmila Korobeshko

Ludmila was the first woman from Russia to complete the “Seven Summits” challenge and just the third Russian woman to climb Everest. Her resume includes more than 50 successful climbs and a trip to the North Pole. She has been working as a mountain guide/translator and organizing expeditions for more than a decade. She also writes and makes short films.

The first Russian woman to complete the “7 Summits” challenge

The first Russian woman to complete the “7 Summits +1” challenge (the +1 being the Puncak Jaya, or Carstensz Pyramid, in Indonesia)

The third Russian woman to climb Everes

An experienced mountain guide and director of the “7 Summits Club”

14 years of experience climbing mountains and organizing expeditions (9 years professionally)

More than 100 successful ascents across the world

Class A mountain climber, guide, English translator

Has climbed and trekked in the mountains of the Causasus (Russia), France, Peru, the United States, Tibet, Nepal, Mexico, Argentina, Ecuador, Tanzania, Ukraine, Australia, New Zealand, Japan and Turkey

Has led more than 20 expeditions to the peak of Elbrus

Ivan Dusharin

Ivan is a world-class mountain climber with more than 300 successful climbs under his belt, including Everest. He is an experienced guide and leads expeditions all around the world. His hobbies include photography and filmmaking. Dusharin is the author of a book “Crossing the Abyss on a Wire”.

http://www.alpari-life.ru/en/alpinisty_vaza/

Maxim Shakirov

Maxim is the man behind “New Year’s on the Summit” as well as a 2014 Olympic Games flag-bearer. He has already planted the Olympic flag atop mountains on five continents, including Mount Everest. He is a journalist, filmmaker, photographer and traveler

Welcome to Elbrus! Now Prielbrusie region, ie, the southern slopes of Mount Elbrus, is completely open to the public. In early May, the company Red Fox plans to hold a massive competition. Hundreds of athletes, mountain fans will come to the mountain slopes of Mount Elbrus, to compete in several types of competitions. Race is included in the international calendar of the International Federation of mountain races (ISF). This is the first start of the World Series. We are waiting for the world leaders.

Elbrus - the highest mountain in Europe, is waiting for you ! Climbing is a unique, with beautiful scenery, and you will remember for a lifetime.

For the first time professionals and amateurs will start separately. Amateurs will start up to the summit, like all previous years, from the shelter of "Barrels" (3800 meters), and professionals - from the Clearing Azau (2350 meters).

Vertical kilometer same as before, will be from the Clearing Azau to shelter "Mir"

We wait your application on the IV International Festival of extreme sports Red Fox Elbrus Race 2012!

http://www.elbrus.redfox.ru/english/

Red Fox company together with Russian Mountaineering Federation conduct IV International festival Red Fox Elbrus Race on May 6-11, 2012.

The competition will take place on the Elbrus peak, the highest top of the Europe and the most popular Russian mountain region.

You can fill the Application here

http://www.elbrus.redfox.ru/english/zayavka/

The preliminary applications can be sent by e-mail in the attached excel file. E-mail: elbrus@redfox.ru. It’s obligatory to indicate last name, age and discipline of the competitions and qualification.

The preliminary applications are accepted until 20 April 2012 with obligatory confirmation.

Program:

6th May

11-00-19-00 Registration. Glade Azau.

19-00 Briefing of the Elbrus Vertical Kilometer® (2012 Vertical Kilometer® Series).

7th May

9-00 Elbrus Vertical Kilometer® (2012 Vertical Kilometer® Series).

14-00 Inauguration of the Festival.

Awarding ceremony of the winners of the Elbrus Vertical Kilometer®.

19-00 Briefing of the ski-mountaineering personal race.

8th May

9-00 Ski-mountaineering personal race.

14-00 Awarding ceremony of the winners of the ski-mountaineering personal race.

19-00 Briefing of the Elbrus Vertical SkyRace® (2012 SkyRace® Series).

9th May

7-00 Elbrus Vertical SkyRace® (2012 SkyRace® Series).

19-00 Briefing of the snow-shoes race.

10th May

10-30 Snow-shoes race.

15-00 Awarding ceremony of the winners of the Elbrus Vertical SkyRace® and of the snow-shoes race. Closing ceremony of the Festival.

11th May

Reserve day.

You are welcome!

Russian Government decided to expand the North Caucasus tourism cluster. The resolution № 1195 "On special economic zones in the North Caucasus Federal District", dated 29 December 2011, was published on the site of Russian Government.

In particular, Russian Government decided to create a special economic zone for tourism and recreation in the areas of Dzheyrahsky and Sunzha districts of the Republic of Ingushetia. The Ministry of Economic Development of Russia will sign on behalf of Russian Government an agreement with the Government of the Republic of Ingushetia and with the administrations of Dzheyrahsky and Sunzha districts of Ingushetia.

In addition, at the suggestion of Ministry of Economic Development of Russia is decided to increase the area of previously established under the RF Government Resolution № 833 from October 14, 2010 tourist-recreational special economic zones.

In particular, the special economic zone in the Republic of Dagestan, previously bounded by Hunzah area, will be expanded by Derbent, Karabudakhkent, Kaiakent and Magaramkentsky areas.

SEZ in the Karachai-Cherkess Republic, which was bounded by Zelenchukskaya area, will include Urupskiy area.

SEZ in Kabardino-Balkaria Republic, located on the territory of Cherek, Elbrus and Chegem areas will complement the land of another area - Zolsky.

The Ministry of Economic Development of Russia will sign on behalf of the Government of the Russian Federation appropriate supplemental agreements amending the previously concluded agreements on the establishment of tourist-recreational special economic zones with the highest executive authorities of Russian regions and executive and administrative bodies of municipalities.

*** The formation of special economic zones for tourism and recreation in the south of Russia goes under the control of OJSC "Northern Caucasus Resorts” in accordance with Government Resolution № 833, dated October 14, 2010 "About creation of the tourism cluster in the North Caucasus Federal District, Krasnodar Territory and the Republic of Adygea". The document envisaged the creation of six tourist-recreational special economic zones in southern Russia for the construction in 2011 - 2020 years of the five new world-class ski resorts - Lagonaki (Krasnodar territory and the Republic of Adygea), Arkhyz (Karachaevo-Cherkessia), Elbrus-Bezengi (Kabardino-Balkaria), Mamison (Republic of North Ossetia - Alania) and Matlas (Republic of Dagestan).

http://www.ncrc.ru/e/news/index.php?id_4=387

Russia and France have officially registered the joint venture for the development of the North Caucasus tourism cluster.

The joint venture, called International Caucasus Development, will begin to work in February 2012. According to the shareholder agreement, which was signed by the parties, joint venture plans to bring in 2012 into the tourism cluster of up to 1 billion euros of investments.

The authorized capital of joint venture will be 10 million euros, of which 51% - will be the share of "NCR" corporation and 49% - of the French side. The Board of Directors will consist of four representatives from each of the parties and will be headed by a representative of the Russian side. Director General of Joint venture will be a representative of France. For a comprehensive assessment of investment projects under the joint venture will be established Technical Board, which would include leading experts from Russia and France.

The joint venture will carry out international coordinating role for the development of the concept and construction of the North Caucasus tourism cluster. The venture will create a system of sales of investment products, will develop business plans for the project and will involve foreign investors. Joint venture will also make a comprehensive review of all projects being prepared for implementation and will transfer them to international standards of quality in all parameters - economic, environmental, technical, social, infrastructure, architecture, etc.

According to the French side, this approach will allow Joint venture to raise up to 15-20 billion euros of foreign investments in the projects of North Caucasus Federal District.

The initiative of joint work in the North Caucasus belongs to the Russian and French presidents Dmitry Medvedev and Nicolas Sarkozy. On May 26, 2011 at Deauville, the two leaders made a statement in which the joint development of resorts in the North Caucasus has been identified as a strategic priority of the Franco-Russian strategic partnership.

In this initiative, on June 17, 2011 OJSC "Resorts of the North Caucasus" and Caisse des Depots et Consignations have signed a framework cooperation agreement, in September 2011 – pre-shareholder agreement and on 9 December 2011 in Brussels was signed a shareholder agreement establishing the joint venture. As a result the company was officially registered in Netherlands.

The project of the tourism cluster in the south of Russia in 2011-2020 includes the construction of five world-class mountain resorts: Lagonaki (Krasnodar Territory, the Republic of Adygea), Arkhyz (Karachay-Cherkessia), Elbrus-Bezengi (Kabardino-Balkaria), Mamison (Republic of North Ossetia - Alania), Matlas (Republic of Dagestan). The planned total length of ski runs will be almost 900 km and they will have 179 ski lifts. The hotels with varying comfort levels will accommodate 89 000 people. Daily throughput of the resorts will reach 150 500 people and each year the North Caucasus tourist cluster will be visited by 5 to 10 million tourists. The project involves phased implementation of over 330 thousand jobs in the region.

The total cost of the ski project is estimated at 451 billion rubles. The project is financed by a public-private partnership. Government invests via NCR 60 billion rubles in transport and utilities infrastructure, private business is financing the facilities of resort infrastructure.

Russian government is considering the inclusion of the coastal area of the Caspian Sea (Dagestan), Caucasus Mineral Waters (Stavropol Territory) and the Republic of Ingushetia to the North Caucasus tourism cluster project.

 http://www.ncrc.ru/e/

PR Newswire: Mega Tourism Resort Project in North Caucasus Mountains Becomes First Russian Entry to Win a Prestigious International Commercial Real Estate Development MIPIM Award

HONG KONG. /PRNewswire/ -- The development company overseeing construction of a massive system of ski, beach and natural health spa resorts covering 50,000 sq km in the North Caucasus Mountains, stretching 1,200 km from the Caspian Sea to the Black Sea and bordering Asia, was named the first Russian winner ever of a renowned MIPIM global real estate competition.

 Northern Caucasus Resorts Company (NCRC) executives will accept the award, based on innovative, technical, environmental and architectural merits, in the Central & Western Asia Futura category at the annual MIPIM Asia awards ceremony here on Nov. 16. MIPIM, short for Le Marche International des Professionnels d'Immobilier, is the premier world promoter of the international property trade. Eighty entrants from 15 countries are involved in the contest, including China, Japan, Indonesia, Taiwan, Malaysia and the UAE.

 "Asia-Pacific investors seeking to diversify outside their domestic markets to mitigate risk and secure higher returns will find great opportunity within our unique plan for developing a sustainable tourism industry in the mountains on our country's southern border with Asia," said NCRC Chairman Akhmed Bilalov. "We expect many also will be attracted to the chance to participate in the first major step in a proposed new national strategy to use public-private initiatives in tourism to spur much-needed economic growth in depressed regions of the Russian Federation."

 Moscow-based NCRC was established last December to drive the massive tourism project, which will create up to 300,000 new jobs. A collaboration with the federal government, the development is part of a long-term strategy to address the economic lag that underlies social tensions in the North Caucasus region. The plan includes industry, agriculture and youth vocational training reform.

 With the explicit support of President Dmitri Medvedev, the federal government initially capitalized the bold undertaking with a $2.0-billion allocation for development of transportation, communications, electrical power and other infrastructure. NCRC is actively pursuing investment from financial institutions and global property developers. The ten-year project is anticipated to require up to $30 billion to complete all phases, including a cluster of five world-class skiing and five modern seaside resorts, as well as an array of health spas that will take advantage of the area's legendary healing mineral and hot springs.

 To facilitate international and domestic investment, the Russian government has designated the entire 50,000-sq-km development area a special economic zone (SEZ). State guarantees will cover up to 70 percent of investments for three to ten years. The state will impose no corporate or transportation taxes for the first ten years, no land taxes for five years and no VAT tax will be applied on equipment imported into the SEZ. The project offers opportunities for foreign companies interested in hospitality, health and wellness, food and beverage, retail, real estate, logistics and warehousing industries.

 "The success of this grand and important project depends on investment being thoroughly diversified and international," said Laurent Vigier, director of European and international affairs for Caisse des Depots et Consignations (CDC). The French state-owned banking group and long-term investor has signed a strategic joint venture with NCRC to provide advanced technical, legal, planning and environmental expertise to support the project. "The current outreach to the Asia-Pacific investment community is a major and critical step toward generating a broad and effective portfolio of investors for the North Caucasus," added M. Vigier, who will join NCRC executives here to present the tourism project.

 About 20 French companies have already expressed interest in investing in ski lifts, hotels, airports, mountain tunnel and other construction projects. The first investment from Asia came Nov. 2 in the form of a joint venture with Korean Western Power Company to build up to five power and heating plants in the region, integrating renewable energy sources from wind and solar generation. The investment is worth approximately $1.0 billion.

 NCRC's skiing resorts, the centerpiece of the overall project and including the tallest peak in Europe, Mt. Elbrus, will open between Dec. 2012 and Dec. 2015, in time for the 2014 Winter Olympic Games in the neighboring Black Sea coastal town of Sochi. Once completed, the North Caucasus ski cluster will become the world's third-largest ski destination, rivaling famed resorts located in the European Alps and the North American Rockies. With over 2.9 billion people in Russia, Europe, the Middle East and Southeast Asia living within a five-hour flight from the ski resorts, over ten million tourists of various income levels are expected to visit the mountains annually.

 Company representatives will be available for one-on-one meetings with representatives of the financial, business and media communities. To schedule a business session, please contact Pavel Achikyan: +7 916 199-5313 or pavel.achikyan@gmail.com; for media interviews contact Mark D'Anastasio, +1 202 550-1235 or +7 985 999-3855, mdanastasio@emcommunicate.com

 A video of the ski resort cluster project can be viewed at

For additional information about the company visit www.ncrc.ru. A press briefer can be found on the MIPIM Online Media Center site: http://www.mipim.com/en/mipim-asia/press/press-kits-and-releases/

Counterterrorist operation (CTO) in the Elbrus and the part of the Baksan regions of Kabardino-Balkaria canceled on November 5. The head of the Kabardino-Balkaria Arsen Kanokov said that the CTO regime will be off to the beginning of winter ski season. The CTO regime throughout the Elbrus and the Baksan areas of Kabardino-Balkaria was introduced February 20, 2011.

«…because of continuing threat of subversive and terror acts, the republic keeps all its mountain resorts near Elbrus closed for tourists. In order to prevent possible threats to life and health of people, being guided by Article 11 of the Federal Law 'On Counteracting Terrorism', during a counterterrorist operation (CTO) regime, it was prohibited to let tourist groups and individual tourists to the ski resort near Elbrus, which is inside the CTO area,"

Welcome !

Elbrus - is invaluable pride and property №1 among the main miracles of Russia. The greatest mountain of Europe! One of the seventh of most magnificent highest tops that hold a firmament on different continents of our planet.

The material has been made during small travel to Caucasus and ascension to Elbrus from February till March, 2011. Despite heavy weather conditions, we still were able to embody some beautiful fragments of life of this wonderful mountain.

Enjoy viewing!

video from Vladimir Voychuk

Latest news from JSC "Northern Caucasus Resorts”

03.11.2011

THE AMENDMENTS TO THE LAW ABOUT SPECIAL ECONOMIC ZONES WILL ATTRACT PRIVATE INVESTORS TO THE NORTH CAUCASUS

JSC "Northern Caucasus Resorts” agrees with the changes to the law on special economic zones, which were coordinated with environmentalists. On the November 2 The State Duma at the second reading passed thе version of the legislation that as far as possible ensures conservation of the reserved areas and at the same time privides conditions for the effective development of the touristic zones.

Earlier, Chairman of the Board of Directors of NCR Akhmed Bilalov was categorically against submitted to the Duma edition of the bill and insisted on its correlation with the views of influential environmentalists. "The tabled version of the law is presented as dictated by the needs of the North Caucasus tourism cluster. However, some officials have tried to put into this law all their problems which they did not want to solve for many years. We will ensure, that the changes will affect only those sites that are being developed within the special economic zones for tourism and recreation under strict government control”, - said Bilalov.

During further consultations a mutually acceptable version of the bill was developed. "The new version of amendments accordes with most of the claims of environmentalists," - said in a statement of WWF Russia. "We managed to find formulations that allow the development of environmental management in the biosphere ranges - that is their primary goal, but it does not entail damaging effects as the previous bill project, - said Igor Chestin, director of WWF-Russia.

Akhmed Bilalov expressed his confidence that the accepted amendments to the law on special economic zones will not harm protected areas.and will contribute to the effective development of the North Caucasus region will attract private investors to the tourism projects in the south of Russia.

"The bill provides tax deduction for residents of tourist-recreational SEZ for a period up to 2023, greatly simplifies the form of land use and technical regulations. The preferences, which are established by the bill are extremely attractive for investors ", - said Bilalov. He also reminded that the project of the North Caucasus tourism cluster will create in the region more than 300 thousand new jobs.

*** The project of the tourism cluster in the south of Russia in 2011-2020 involves the construction of five world-class mountain resorts: Lagonaki (Krasnodar Territory, the Republic of Adygea), Arkhyz (Karachay-Cherkessia), Elbrus-Bezengi (Kabardino-Balkaria), Mamison (Republic of North Ossetia - Alania), Matlas (Republic of Dagestan). The planned total length of ski runs will be almost 900 km and they will have 179 ski lifts. The hotels with varying comfort levels will accommodate 89 000 people. Daily capacity of the resorts will reach 150 500 people and each year the North Caucasus tourist cluster will be visited by 5 to 10 million tourists.

The total cost of the ski project is estimated at 451 billion rubles. The project is financed by a public-private partnership. Government invests via "NCR" corporation 60 billion in transport and utilities infrastructure, private business is financing the facilities of resort infrastructure.

The Russian government is considering the inclusion of the coastal area of the Caspian Sea (Dagestan), Caucasus Mineral Waters (Stavropol Territory) and the Republic of Ingushetia to the North Caucasus tourism cluster project.

The southern slopes of Mount Elbrus will be open to all visitors, probably from 1th December. Counter-terrorist operation is not canceled and may be even remain. However,  no special restrictions on the visit will be exist. Cable cars, damaged by terrorists, are fully restored. Hotels are preparing to meet skiers. In the spring we are waiting for ski tourists, then the race in Elbrus. We hope that next summer will be in normal.

Elbrus area qualifies as a backup venue for ski competitions of the Olympic Games in 2014. Authority promise a beginning  large-scale construction works in nearest future.

Fresh pictures from the Elbrus Regin (from risk.ru)

Mount Cheget - an extreme skiers paradize

Majestic Donguz-Orun

Meanwhile, Olympic Organizing Committee announced plans for the torch relay....

Author: Stefan Korshak.

Relay runners will for the first time carry the Olympic flame to the North Pole, Russian organizers of the 2014 Winter Games said on Tuesday.

 Dmitry Chernyshenko. Archive picture: Yuri Kochetkov

"The most ambitous relay race" ever attempted with an Olympic flame will also take the fire into space and across a 5,000 metre mountain, Dmitry Chernyshenko, head of Russia's Olympic committee, told the news agency Itar-Tass.

A trip for the flame into space, possibly involving the International Space Station (ISS), will be a major challenge, as will be taking the fire to the summit of the 5,642-metre-high Mount Elbrus, Russia's tallest mountain and the highest peak in Europe, Chernyshenko said.

The Olympic flame is scheduled to arrive in Moscow from Athens in October 2013 and then to travel in relays just under 9,000 kilometres to the Pacific port Vladivostok.

In the remaining 123 days until the Olympic Games, running from February 7 to 23, the flame and its carriers will follow a route of more than 40,000km through all 83 major cities in Russia's regions, Chernyshenko said.

More than 30,000 volunteers will participate in the flame relay, he said.

The 22nd Winter Olympic games are scheduled to be held from February 7 to 23, 2014, in the Black Sea port city Sochi and in the adjacent Caucasian mountain resort Krasnaya Polyana.

Independent, Ski visit into Krasnaya Polana

Pavel Shabalin, one of the best climbers of the world, "Father of Ice climbing sports” and motor of sports ideas in the Mountaineering Federation of Russia. Pavel - our old friend and we are always happy to see him...

Finally, we all come together. Importantly, our president and leader Alexander Abramov will be available for a few days before departure to Nepal and Tibet. “National climber of Russia” Viktor Bobok will be also, it is difficult to catch him in Moscow. Straight from the event, he will go again to his beloved Africa, at his beloved Mount Kilimanjaro. In addition, we prepare as a surprise, a few interesting guests. And so, in the program: appetizer buffet, exclusive drinks ... and reports, among which are the loudest: climbing the highest volcano in Antarctica Mount Sidley (Abramov), through the jungle to the top of Carstensz (Luda Korobeshko), on the glaciers of Patagonia (Luba Ivanova), violent season on Aconcagua (Bobok) .... The plans, of course, as usual, a raffle,,,, and informal part, meeting with close friends ...

In short, the event that can not be missed!

Explorersweb about Elbrus. A plane jack last year involving climbers, a bomb destroying a Gondola lift and three skiers shot dead - Mount Elbrus was recently reportedly closed.

Word arrived from Malli Mastan Babu (featured in Exweb for achieving Fastest 7 summits in 2006) this weekend though that people are in fact climbing and skiing Elbrus. "Myself and another friend of mine from US (Nancy Bentley) reached the summit of Elbrus on Feb 25th," Malli wrote.

And this morning, another mail stated that UK Nigel Gifford OBE, "the grand master of adventure" is preparing for yet another world- first skydive this summer, this time over Mt Elbrus.

The Elbrus Skydive is taking place between the 20th-30th July 2011 and Nigel is looking for participants to join him.

"At age 65, Nigel is living proof that you are never too old to explore the dangerous and the unfamiliar," states the press release. "After the legendary Everest and Eiger skydives, Nigel’s Mount Elbrus parachuting quest follows another world first: his successful skydive in front of Mount Everest in 2008. And Nigel knows Elbrus well; the veteran mountaineer climbed the North Face of the Mountain last July with Dave Padgen, a two time Para Olympian who suffers from Cerebral Palsy. With a lifelong passion for life at its limits, Nigel is committed to planning and delivering unique, world-class adventures for his clients."

There are few things on earth as rare as a truly perfect silence. Steve Giesecke would know.

Having summitted the highest peak on each of the world's seven continents - each on the first attempt - Giesecke has been everywhere from the equatorial jungles of Indonesia, and most recently, to the ice sheets of Antarctica.

The retired Air Force colonel returned from his final climb there only a few weeks ago. It was at Mount Vinson, on the world's most remote continent, where he experienced the most enveloping stillness he's ever known.

"When there's no wind - often there's wind - but when there's no wind, it's the quietest place on Earth," Giesecke said.

He found himself on a continent without a shred of development - no roads, cars, or people outside his group. The ice and snow absorbed any ambient noise around them. Even the voice of the nearest person couldn't travel far.

"You can hear your eyes blink," he said.

Like a lot of contractors at Joint Base Lewis-McChord, Giesecke spends most of his days at a desk. He works for the National Center for Telehealth and Technology, a Department of Defense office working to meet the psychological health and traumatic brain injury needs of the military community by developing and implementing technology solutions.

"I'm working on one of our initiatives that will bring the mental health programs of the DoD and VA closer together through collaboration on new technology assessment and development, in the areas of Web-based resources, social media and mobile applications," Giesecke said.

But in spite of the hours he spends in front of a computer, Giesecke's passion is pushing himself to the limit in some of the world's most inspiring locations. The result is a spectacular list of experiences - and more than a few examples of sheer determination.

Giesecke grew up in the Northwest, where hiking in the region's mountain ranges was almost a given. After college he climbed the Jungfrau in the Swiss Alps, which sparked an interest in climbing. When he joined the Air Force, he made a point of climbing mountains in the western U.S. between assignments.

Then in 1989, while stationed in Alaska, he climbed Denali, also known as Mount McKinley.

At 20,320 feet tall, Denali is the highest peak in North America and experiences some of the most severe weather in the world. In 1989 only 51 percent of climbers summitted the mountain, according to the National Parks Service. Today that number is 55 percent.

Giesecke had what he called "the usual experiences" on Denali. The weather was bad and only three of the people in his party made it to the top. At one point another group's tent was blown loose from the ridge above. Only one of the climbers made it out in time.

"It was very difficult back then," Giesecke said. "It still is very difficult, but back then things were a little bit heavier. You needed to take more time on the mountain to move the heavier equipment up."

About the same time, he read the book "Seven Summits" by Dick Bass, Frank Wells and Rick Ridgeway. Though at the time Giesecke thought the task out of reach for himself, the story of Bass and Wells, the first two men to successfully summit all seven peaks, would stick with him for years.

SETTING THE GOAL

When he retired from the Air Force a decade ago, Giesecke moved back to the Pacific Northwest, joined The Mountaineers club and started taking climbing classes. He continued climbing in the area, including summitting Mount Rainier multiple times. But Giesecke wanted a challenge that was bigger than he was. He wanted to know exactly how far he could go.

"I was in peak condition. I knew that if I was ever even going to have a shot at climbing the seven summits, any more of the seven summits, I knew it was then," Giesecke said.

In 2007 he signed up for a trip to Aconcagua on the Argentinean-Chilean border. The 22,841-foot peak is the highest outside of Asia. Giesecke told himself that if he made it to the top without any significant problems he would go straight to Nepal to climb Mount Everest. And in March of 2007 - after a U.S. pit stop just long enough to renew his passport - that's exactly what he did.

According to friend and fellow climber Gary Talcott, who grew up with Giesecke in Olympia, this level of resolve isn't out of the norm.

"He is very ambitious, goal oriented and determined to summit," Talcott said via e-mail, recalling a time when Giesecke helped him lead a group of climbers down from Mount Hood in whiteout conditions.

"It's fun to hear about his latest plans or last adventure," Talcott said. "I can just see the wheels turning."

The Everest trip took him two months.

Mount Everest is the tallest mountain above sea level in the world. A 1999 survey sponsored by the National Geographic Society puts the mountain at 29,035 feet tall, so high that its peak reaches into the lower limits of the jet stream. Sustained winds at the top can exceed 100 miles per hour. In July, the warmest month on the mountain, the average daytime temperature at the summit is -2 F. In January, the coldest month, the average is -33 F but can drop as low as -76 F.

Conditions are, in a word, extreme. Giesecke's experience was nothing less.

Among the final hurdles before reaching Everest's summit is the Cornice Traverse, a 400-foot knife-edged ridge leading to the Hillary Step. Teetering too far to the left would send a climber down 8,000 feet along the Southwest Face. A misstep to the right would result in plummeting 10,000 feet down the Kangshung Face.

It was here that the snow beneath Giesecke broke through, sending him sliding downward.

"I only fell about 20 feet, but the air beneath my boots was endless," he said.

Fortunately the anchors held, and he continued toward the top. After tackling the final obstacle, the 40-foot climb up the Hillary Step, Giesecke summited the mountain.

"I went up Everest on May 20, 2007, and that was a fantastic day," he said, "to be on top of the world."

DOWNHILL FROM EVEREST

The following year he took on Mount Elbrus (18,510 feet tall) on the border between Russia and Georgia. After that he went straight to Mount Kilimanjaro (19,340 feet tall) in Tanzania, leaving the area only two days before Russia's invasion of Georgia in the summer of 2008.

His next challenge was Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia. Because the highest point on the continent of Australia is little more than a hike, some climbers take on the 16,500-foot peak to check Oceania off their lists.

While the climb itself includes a 2,000 foot wall climb topped by a Tyrolean traverse-a gap of air climbers cross on a rope suspended between two high points-getting there is a challenge all its own. Even reaching base camp requires a two-week trek through the jungle, days away from civilization.

According to Giesecke, it's the toughest trail he's ever been on.

"The face climb itself was actually fun," he said. "The jungle approach was a once in a lifetime thing. I wouldn't do that again."

And so, there was only one left. Mount Vinson, Antarctica's tallest peak, stands at 16,050 feet tall. But to get to it, Giesecke would have to wait.

In January he traveled to Punta Arenas, Chile. From there he planned to fly to Antarctica - but things were not as simple as he had hoped. A strike over rising fuel prices shut down the area, leaving Giesecke cut off from the last of the seven summits.

"It's challenging to accept things beyond my control," he said.

For him, waiting is the hardest part about mountain climbing - knowing that the goal is out there ahead of you, but not being able to reach out and grab it.

Giesecke was stranded in Patagonia for two weeks waiting for the strike to end. Not everyone in the group was as patient or invested. Some went home before so much as setting foot on Antarctica.

Not Giesecke.

"I'd gone all the way down to the end of South America to complete this trip," he said. "That's what I intended to do and that's what I did."

On Jan. 27, he made it to the top, finishing a journey he started in 1989.

"It's still sinking in," Giesecke said. "When I finished I came back home and I got out the book 'Seven Summits' and looked at it again."

Like explorers before him, Giesecke has been asked time and again why he does it. And really, there are countless reasons - the camaraderie of accomplishing great things with other people, the physical challenge, George Mallory's classic "Because it's there."

But for Giesecke, perhaps what it really comes down to the liberating challenge.

"I think when you're climbing it's one of the ultimate expressions of freedom," he said.

There aren't many places left with so few restraints, he said. But when he's pushing himself toward the summit of some impossibly high mountain, the only thing holding him back is how high he can climb.

By Marisa Petrich (Northwest Guardian)

http://www.army.mil/-news/2011/02/24/52401-retired-officer-reaches-goal-of-climbing-worlds-7-highest-peaks/

Despite recent terrorist attacks near Elbrus Mountain in the North Caucasus, plans to establish a tourist industry in the region remain intact, even though tourists are currently banned from the region during a counter-terrorist operation.

Tourist cluster

A special law providing tax breaks for the tourist cluster in North Caucasus has been discussed at a meeting with President Dmitry Medvedev’s aide Akrady Dvorkovich, Vedomosti reported. The law could be accepted before the end of the year.

Five zones in the region are part of a single tourist cluster Vysota 5642 (height) in Karachayevo-Cherkessiya, Kabardino-Balkariya, North Ossetia, Dagestan, Krasnoyarsk region and Adygea. The resorts, aimed at bringing in income and jobs to the ailing region, will have a total budget of 451.4 billion roubles, 86.7 per cent will be attracted through private investors.

The Skolkovo of the Caucasus

The resort organisation suggested removing all taxes apart from VAT for the participants of the scheme for ten years, as well as fast-tracking bureaucratic and land paperwork.

The company will have to follow up the proposal with finance ministry, but Dvorkovich assumes that there should be no problems for tax breaks similar to Skolkovo’s.

In the innovation centre investors are exempt from profit and property tax, and insurance is at 14 per cent. The resorts will receive the land for free, and will then have the right to rent it out to investors for 49 years.

Terrorists fenced off

With security as the main concern in a region often hit by terrorist attacks, the tourist cluster recognise that it is an issue they will have to address.

There were also calls to build a three metres fence around the resorts to ensure the guests’ safety in the volatile region.

However, that suggestion was deemed excessive, and law enforcement were tasked with developing constructive safety measures in the cluster and the region overall.

Sources in president’s administration say there may be a clause about safety issues in the region in the law.

Cameras to protect from attacks

The fence will also ruin the face of the resort and it could be climbed over, president of Gorimpeks group and co-owner of Krasny Shtorm security holding Viktor Volikov told Vedomosti.

In order to fight terrorist attacks Volikov suggest surveillance. It would be much more effective to have surveillance stations along the tramway that would monitor data from video cameras set up on every support.

However, safety issues for locals have to be solved before any tourists should be allowed to go there, according to head of Public chamber expert group on North Caucasus Kaloi Akhilgov.

And for this law enforcement has to work better to understand the reasons for the sudden surge of violence in Kabardino-Balkaria, where it has been relatively quiet for many years.

The project  to conquer the seven highest points of seven continents was started in 2007 with the support of the Prime Minister of the Republic of Tuva Sholban Kara-ool. During next year four Tuvan climbers climbed two of the seven highest peaks in the world - Elbrus (5,642 m) and Kilimanjaro ( 5895m), where they established national flags of Russia and Tuva. In March of 2009 , three athletes from Tuva climbed the highest peak in South America - Aconcagua (6962 m), dedicating their victory to the 65th anniversary of the Voluntary Entering of the Tuva People's Republic to Russia (noted in October 2009). In June 2010 the project leader Maadyr Khovalyg and women-climber Marianna Surunchal reached the summit of McKinley.

Under the plan, until 2014 Tuva athletes must conquer the highest peak of planet Mount Everest (8848 meters), Vinson Massif (4897 m) in Antarctica and Mount Kosciuszko (2228 m) in Australia. Our friends Maadyr and Marianna will start for Australia in the beginning of next year.

Maadyr Khovalyg (63 years old) is best-known and well-published writer who writes on the Tuvan language. This book devoted to the first three climbs of the project. We are sure that it will be continued….

A member of 7 Summits Club François Langlois has reached the top of Antarctica's Vinson Massif, marking a decade challenge to climb the seven summits - the highest mountains of each of the seven continents: Mount Aconcagua, Argentina, 2000; Mount Everest, Nepal, 2001, 2009; Mount Logan, Canada/Mount McKinley, U.S., 2003; Mount Elbrus, Russia, 2008; Carstensz Pyramid, Indonesia, 2008, Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, 2009; Vinson Massif, Antarctica, 2010. The glorious mountaineering quest was realised by Langlois with a noble purpose - to raise money for children's charities.

“I was born prematurely at 4 pounds, with underdeveloped lungs. I spent the first 5 weeks of my life in an incubator, dropped to 2 pounds and had multiple blood transfusions, jaundice, basically fighting off a whole slew of illnesses, fighting for my right to stay! 35 years have now gone by and with my fully developed lungs; I had the privilege to set foot a top of the world’s highest mountain; Everest. In those beautiful 15 minutes that I stood there, gazing at our amazing world, I made a promise; to help give back the gift I received. Recently, we found out that the pain in my chest was in fact a 2 pound benign tumour the size of a grapefruit on my left lung. It seems that I have carried this tumour with me since birth and climbed with it over the years. It was with me on Everest. As they removed the tumour, it burst, spilling a pint of fluid outside instead of in my lungs. I was spared from a pulmonary oedema that while on the Everest, would have been fatal. I enjoy with what eyes I see the world today!“ exclaims François Langlois.

Langlois supports, among other, Fondation Centre de cancerologie Charles-Bruneau, Child Haven International, The Montreal Children’s Hospital (McGill University Health Centre), The Make-A-Wish Foundation and World Vision.

In the third of his BBC columns, Richard talks about his final preparations for his '737 Challenge' during which he aims to climb the highest mountain on each continent, plus reaching both the South Pole and the North Pole for charity - all within seven months in a bid to raise £1m.

The clock is now ticking towards 12 December when I fly to South America and then Antarctica on the way to the start of this most gruelling of challenges.

It's just mind-blowing to think how quickly the challenge has come round from conceiving it 15 months ago. I'm both scared and excited, but just want the whole thing to start.

I've done all the training now and I don't think I can do any more. I feel physically and mentally prepared for the challenge, which if successful will see me become the first person to stand on the continental summits and the poles in the same calendar year.

The challenge consists of the South Pole, Mount Vinson (4,897m), Aconcagia (6,962m), Mount Kilimanjaro (5895m), Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m), the North Pole, Mount Everest (8,850m), Mount Denali (6,194m) and Mount Elbrus (5,642m).

If all goes to plan I'll be at the South Pole on 1 January and finish up at the top of Mount Elbrus on 31 July.

Over the last few months, and especially my final training on Cho Oyu in the Himalayas, I have developed this toolbox of mountaineering skills that will give me the best chance of success. But ultimately we are in the hands of mother nature and she could put a spanner in the works!

Since coming back from the Himalayas in October there has been no let up in attempting to boost my aerobic capacity. I competed in the Cardiff half marathon and then took part in the Cardiff Burn - a 10k run, a 42k bike and a 3k kayak. That was hard, but great preparation.

Everest would seem to be the biggest challenge but we have highlighted Denali as the toughest leg because in it's a brutal mountain in its own right

But I did have a setback when I lost my training partner on a run on the Ogmore coastal trail. Unfortunately my dog Ben fell down a hole and broke his leg. He's feeling a bit sorry for himself but he'll be okay.

The last couple of weeks I have been trying to taper down the training and have given Kevin Morgan, the former Wales international full-back who is helping me train, something of a poser.

I told him I want to be fit and fat before I go! I want to maintain my fitness but also to go into the challenge carrying a bit of extra weight with a big intake of carbohydrates.

A lot of my energies have been put in to the packing and sorting my gear out. I have to pack bags now that will be air freighted on to Everest base camp. Packing for nine legs over seven months is pretty challenging to say the least.

And on the other hand is the charity. I recently visited the cancer day care centre which was a real humbling experience and gave me some real inspiration for my trip.

I have spent every penny I have and every waking hour of the last 15 months on this unique challenge because I am very serious about it and its integrity. I was very down after my rugby career was ended with a shoulder injury and this has given me something to focus on.

At half-time during the Wales v New Zealand international at the Millennium Stadium I was presented with a special badge by Carwyn Jones, Wales' first minister, and WRU chief Roger Lewis. To get the ovation I did from the 70,000-odd fans in the stadium was a real lift.

After leaving on 12 December I don't get much thinking time because I'll be in Antarctica on 14 or 15 December and straight into the challenge. The plan is we get to the South Pole on 28 December.

And that poses a problem because I will have to wait there until 1 January so it qualifies with the calendar year requirements of the challenge. That has been one of the logistical hurdles I've had to overcome and I will have to get a flight back on my own on a supply plane.

Then it's back to Mount Vinson on Antarctica and then on to Aconcagia in South America - the highest mountain outside the Himalayas.

The crux of the challenge is further down the line - the North Pole, followed by Mount Everest and then on to Mount Denali. The North Pole presents the highest risk of cold or frost injury, and every day we are battling the north pole we are missing a day acclimatising on Everest.

Everest would seem to be the biggest challenge but we have highlighted Denali as the toughest leg because in it's a brutal mountain in its own right. Extreme weather systems and I will be doing it at my weakest mentally and physically because I will be coming straight off Everest.

We are aiming to be on Everest in April and May. Statistically the highest summit success rate is early May and after that we are looking at four to six days to climb Denali.

The aim then is to reach the summit of Mount Elbris before 31 July.

Richard Parks was speaking to BBC Sport Wales' Richard Thomas

Source: 

http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport2/hi/rugby_union/welsh/9239634.stm