Elbrus(5642) - Page 58

We finished the next stage of development of our Internet projects (our sites). We have made several important changes and improvements. And it is made for you, our friends. First of all, we changed the registration system. In this regard, we ask you to review your own data, which were transferred from the previous version of registration. Inform us if you have any problem with registration.

Also, now you can join not only the "7 Summits" project, but also  you could  register your achievements in other projects, namely:

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14 Eight-Thousanders

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A new is a total ranking of member - a summary from all these projects. We also added "additional" peaks and objects to these projects ...

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If asked about the highest and most dramatic mountains of Europe nine out of ten Europeans will answer “the Alps”. Yet, the grandest and by far the highest mountain chain of Europe (seven summits over 5000m plus Mt.Elbrus with its 5642m) is the Caucasus stretching between the Black and Caspian seas in the continent’s south-eastern corner. And undoubtedly, Mt. Elbrus, this white double-headed dormant volcano, is the highest, most beautiful and most alluring mountain in Russia. Interesting and important detail: it will take you just 7-8 hours to get from Moscow to this Seven Summits peak. Last but not least: 7 Summits Club's record is 18 years of successful Elbrus climbs We have 18 years experience of sucsess climb to Elbrus!

OUR PROGRAMMES HERE >>>>>>>

See also - Ambitious Strategy for the North Caucasus from Vladimir Putin >>>>>>>

"Round Table. Russia mountain guides - becoming a professional community "was held on 29 October as part of the exhibition "International Ski Salon”. It was an informal meeting of members of the Association of Mountain Guides of Russia, a report of committee and discussions of some details of its work. one of the chairmen of the organizing committee of the Association of Mountain Guides of Russia Sergei Zon-Zam introduced Russia Officer Russian Mountaineering Federation (RMF) Roman Bryk for a report.

Post Roman was quite brief. The Work is proceeding and is now in the stage of signing contracts with partner organizations. The choice is approved in favor of "Canadian" model, with separation of the ski and climbing blocks. Fedor Farberov is working on programming. Partners RMF for the School of guides to determine for 2011. In the near future site of the Association of guides should start working.

Maxim Balakhovsky made on submission of the draft Etique Code was made by a mountain guide. Actually, he just read it with little commentary. In developing the basis for the Code is taken code UIAGM. This part of the Round Table program caused the most lively discussion ..

The second chairman Nicholay Veselovsky, Director of "Vertical World Co  made an announcement for 2011: Schematic diagram of the Russian national school of mountain guides, modules for 2011 and  school partners. Next year, two units of the School will be held in June and one general unit will be held in December.

Partners: Gore-Tex, Red Fox, Pieps, Petzl,

Leading the seminar stressed that for  the first issue of school guides, they are going to possibility to take part  for future teachers of the school guides. The process of recognizing the future diploma by UIAGM structures will be very long and we have to start it, even if not completely ready.

Now a new state tourism development program in the North Caucasus aimed at construction of Olympic facilities in Krasnaya Polyana. However, all republics of this region have their own plans for development of mountain infrastructure. So in North Ossetia, a work on construction of a large resort in the area Mamison pass already began. In addition, the river valley Genaldon is the focus of the authorities, through which the route goes to one of the most famous mountains of the Caucasus – Kazbek (5033m). In this year's there was a regular annual International alpiniada from 4 to 13 September. About 200 people from Russia and CIS countries have climbed to the top of Kazbek. But now the route is still without a single mountain huts, all nights are in tents.

Chairman of the Republican Committee on Tourism, Oleg Karsanov stated that the Committee has developed a plan to build on the route to the summit of Kazbek on the northwestern slope of the glacier Mayli three mountain huts: at elevations 2,300 m, 3450 m, 4149 m.

The highway to the village Tmenikau will be reconstructed and extended further up to the level of 1950 m (sandy river of Genaldon). Wide footpath will be laid to the upper hot Karmadon springs (2300m), where it will be built a largest hut. In this area there are great opportunities for trekking and easy climbing. Except in the Kazbek district has a number of beautiful mountains: Dzhimarai-Hoch, Miley-Hoch, Shaukudza, Dzarasova Peak (Peak Polyakov), Pastukhova Peak, Peak Surveyor.

A traditional route to Kazbek from Russian (Ossetian) side

 Genaldon Valley

Karmadon hot springs

To the summit of Kazbek

Construction of rescue hut on the saddle of Elbrus carried out almost three years. Mountaineering Federation of Russia supported an initiative of some climbers, there were found money and volunteers for the work. Grand opening of the hut was on Sept. 1 2010, at an altitude of 5,300 meters. In September, Alexander Abramov, lead a group climbing Elbrus, had organized rescue work for a Polish climber. Hard to say, could this be done without the hut.

However, in late October, guide Eugene Kruten, climbing on Mount Elbrus, found that the refuge is destroyed. Upper part of hut is separated from the base and lying quite near but aside. This fact has caused surprise and intense discussion of what happened. In principle, the general conclusion is: it must be restored. Reason of destroying: changes in design, connected with the loss of some details during winter storage. Wind on the saddle has hurricane strength, quite often. We need more precise engineering calculation.

Two photos from Eugene Kruten

Rescue work at the hut

1th September, opening

September, 30 we had a traditional evening meeting friends of 7 Summits Club. At this time, a record number of people came to hear reports on our expeditions. The famous mountain climber, winner of the Piolet d'Or Jury Koshelenko was the chief guest. He spoke about his expeditions to Peru and the Pamirs. Then our guides were made with tales of his expeditions, we have shown films and pictures. Victor Bobok and Oleg Banar sang songs, we gave prizes for the best slogan for the club, played the lottery etc…

Photos from the party – full gallery is here >>>>>>>

A group of climbers 7 Summits Club on Sept. 23 flew to the Caucasus, and had settled in the hotel Povorot in Terskol. September, 24 they made acclimatization outing up to the Pastukhov Rocks. September, 25 in the morning the team started the Elbrus climb. In the group were: Alexander Abramov (leader, guide and president of the 7 Summits Club), Sergei Onufrienko (guide), Ilya Shershnev, Dmitry Freiman, brothers Petr and Pavel Tolstykh.

At a good pace climbers went up from Pastukhov Rocks to the saddle of Elbrus (5300 m). However, here, on one of the Tolstykh brothers decided to turn back. Although, according to Abramov, he was in a good shape. Nevertheless, the two brothers and guide Onufrienko at 10:00 a.m. went down. Abramov, Shershnev and Freiman started climbing to the western summit (5642 m).

At about 10-30 a.m. they saw at a distance app. over one kilometer people who scream calling for help. Without hesitation, the group refused to continue climb and started to traverse to the victims. It turned out to be Polish climbers, young guy and girl. They slipped on descent from the summit and received multiple injuries when falling. The guy apparently had broken his leg and could not go by himself. Girl with a collarbone injury, minor injuries on hand and head could go. She was taken to a rescue hut on the another side of the saddle. The construction of this shelter was completed only on 1 September.

Unfortunately, the telephone and radio link on the saddle of Elbrus still does not work and to call for rescuers you need to go lower, about half hour. Except our group and Polish couple, only four climbers made the climb on this day. At 12:15 one of guides of the other group went down and called to the rescue services. The Polish girl and Dmitry Freiman left later down with Lisa Pahl, another Elbrus guide who was with a client. Alexander Abramov and Ilya Shershnev were stayed with the injured Polish climber. With great difficulty they dragged him to the hut. It takes about two hours of hard work. Approximately 3.30 p.m. four rescuers reached the hut, they provided medical assistance and at 4.00 p.m. started transportation. Approximately at 5.30 p.m. the group reached the Pastukhov Rocks, where a snowcat was waiting for them. The same evening, the Polish climbers were taken to hospital.

In the shelter 

Alex Abramov - on the left and rescuers

Records on Elbrus, Polish climbers have reached a new level
Press Release Competition Elbrus Race

September, 24  International Elbrus Race competitions were held on the slopes of Mount Elbrus. Competitions in speed, sky running on the highest peak of Europe held  sixth year in a row, starting in 2005.  In September, when ice-snow conditions are better and  when the number of climbers reduced.

Competitions are held in two classes. The first one  is "Extreme": from the foot of mountain -  Azau Glade (2400 m) to the highest point of Mount Elbrus - the Western Peak (5642 m). Route length is  approximately 13 kilometers, vertical drop of more than 3000 meters.  Anywhere in the world is no more competition on the track with such drop. A short track names "Classic". "Classic" starts from the refuge Barrels (3700 m) located at the upper cable car station Elbrus. The finish of this route is also on the western summit of Elbrus.

 Two days before the main trial, athletes started in the classification race from Barrels to Pastukhov Rocks (4900m). The control time was two hours - this will be a "pass" on the main race.

  A large group of experienced climbers, guides of Elbrus were on duty at the track up to the summit. They are capable of working at height for a long time, and can help athletes in case of changing weather conditions.

  This year's Elbrus Race  was attended by athletes from Russia, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, Azerbaijan, Poland, USA and Indonesia. The Polish team was led by well-known mountaineer, Himalayan climber Artur Hajzer.  It was a group of young, well trained and motivated athletes.  Artur  wants to build a new national team, capable to continue  traditions of Polish Himalayan mountaineering.  Hajzer  regards  Elbrus Race  as a good possibility of endurance testing for athletes.  

 Young Polish ski-alpinist, mountain guide from Zakopane  Andrzej Bargiel (22 years old) became a champion on  "Extreme" class, with a phenomenal time - 3 hours 23 min 37 sek. He managed to improve the previous record set by Denis Urubko in 2006 (3 h 55 m 59 s) more than on half of hour.  28-years old “snow leopard” Alexandra Dzik from Poland was first in women contest with record time - 5 hours 4 minutes 41 seconds!

On the track "Classic" Andrey Puchinin from Kazakhstan came to the finish line first (2 hours 34 minutes 33 seconds), improving his own result in 2006 almost on 12 minutes! Russian Oksana Stefanishina (Sochi) won the race in the class of "Classic" for women. Her time was 3 hours 22 min 01 sec.

 Particularly we should note a veteran Boris Korshunov, who on Aug. 31 was 75 years old. His result on the Classic track was 4 hours 16 minutes - 14 th place.

  Elbrus - it's not a treadmill. There are factors inherent in the high mountains, for example, a strong wind. In calm weather the result of all  athletes would be higher. This year's judges were forced to postpone the race start from September 23 to September 24 because  on the mountain was very bad weather.

For the sixth time the Top Sport Travel company (www.sklon.ru) and news server www.Russianclimb.com organize competitions International Elbrus Race.

NPF Bask is the third time became the general sponsor of the international competitions.

Mountaineering Federation of Azerbaijan - General Partner VI International Elbrus Race.

Sponsors of the competition:
Company SIVERA (Ryazan)
Shop "Tramontana" (St. Petersburg)
The memorial fund  Anatoly Boukreev (USA)

Official website of the competition www.Elbrusrace.com

Heroic work of enthusiasts supported by sponsors were not in vain. 1th of September at an altitude of 5300 meters it was opened a mountaineering refuge, the highest in Europe, and probably in the world. This is an elegant half-sphere, which is placed in the bottom part of the saddle of Elbrus. It is designed for rescue purposes, to spend the night in case of sudden weather changes, to assist frozen, tired or sick. A building still must pass the test of a winter season, still it is not clear who and how it will dispose. But now just congratulate all people involved in this unique work.

It has long been in the Caucasus mountain climbers do not build shelters for mountain climbers, on their own initiative. Construction was nearly three seasons. The first year of operation was for reconnaissance. A second summer season ended unloading materials for building shelters on the eastern peak of Mount Elbrus. The third summer was full of worries and heavy physical work. It seemed that the guys could not make it before winter .... and then it is unlikely that the building withstand a strong winter winds. They managed, well done!

Dmitry Gurianov - the author of project. Respect !

August 29, our team climbed the summit of Western Elbrus. Early in the morning nine climbing women from Nepal and three guides from the 7 Summits Club (Alexander Abramov, Lyudmila Korobeshko and Tatiana Stukalova) stood on the highest point in Europe (5642 meters). The weather was favorable for a successful ascent and descent. In the evening the success of the team was marked by a champagne and caviar. Congratulations ! We wish the Nepalese girls continued success on the tracks of the Seven summits.

The project members of Everest Women Seven Summits Eco-Action.: Asha Kumari Singh, Chunu Shrestha, Maya Gurung, Ngabhang Phuti Sherpa, Nimdoma Sherpa, Pema Diki Sherpa, Pujan Acharya, Shailee Basnet and Usha Bist.

Shailee Basnet (Coordinator)- A graduate of Business Information Systems and a Post Graduate of Journalism, she works as a reporter for Himalmedia. She became interested in climbing and mountaineering because of the physical and mental challenges it poses, which are quite different from her line of work. Lack of involvement in any kind of sports during her early years made her interested in challenging her limits as she grew up. At 25 years of age she reached a new height on May 24th 2008 by standing on top of Everest.

Asha Kumari Singh- A 24-year-old student, Asha comes from Danuwar community from Meghrail, Mahottari. She comes from a society where women are barely aware of their rights, are supposed to get married off sooner than later and dowry is rampant. Thanks to her grandmother who thought Asha was the ugliest girl among all five sisters and hence thought it was necessary to educate her, in case nobody wanted her marry her. Asha however was not worried about her looks but coming from the flatlands of Terai, was always curious about high mountains. She came to Kathmandu for higher education and got an opportunity to join the Female Outdoor Leadership training in the Annapurnas in the year 2004. Given her background she challenged conventions and impressed naysayers when she started climbing. She made not only her community but also the entire nation proud as she stood on top of Everest on 24th of May 2008.

Chunu Shrestha- Hailing from a poor Kathmandu family, Chunu began working to help support her family while she was just a sixth grader. Despite the financial hardships, she finished high school and started pursuing her education in Bachelors of Arts. When she heard about Susmita Maskey’s summit attempt in 2005, she became inspired by the possibility of succeeding in adventure tourism to support her family. With FIWSE she was able to nurture her passion for the outdoors that she dreamt about during her long days of work. At 27 years of age, she reached the Everest summit on the 25th of May 2008.

Nimdoma Sherpa- Still in high school, Nim is the youngest woman to climb Everest. Despite her small stature, she is dauntless and a very good climber, who impressed everyone during the Basic Mountaineering Course. She had her own struggle on the personal front. Her father passed away while she was a tenth grader. Still she continued her education, subsequently becoming the first in her family to complete the School Leaving Certificate (SLC). She spent lonely childhood in Kathmandu away from her mother for education. She took care of household chores while other children played. But she knew her life was destined to be different than that of everyone else around her. When she learnt about First Inclusive Women Sagarmatha Expedition she knew this is what she was waiting for. At 17 years, she set foot on the top of the world on the 22nd of May 2008. She is ruling wall climbing national champion.

Pema Diki Sherpa- Pema Diki, 22, is one of the three girls born to a struggling couple who moved to Kathmandu from Dolakha with nothing but the clothes on their backs. Two years before joining the expedition, a chance to trek in Gosainkunda enchanted this acupuncture assistant. Basic Mountaineering Course presented her more challenges which left her with desire for more climbing experience. She achieved what she had long dreamt for on 24th of May 2008 when she bowed her head to Cholmolungma, the mother goddess of the world. She has great faith in education and as a child dreamt of being a teacher. The team has been conducting educational interaction in different parts of the country, sharing the experience of struggles and lessons learnt during the expedition, motivating students to believe in their dreams. With this program her childhood dream became reality. She aspires to travel and learn more in life and share her knowledge and experiences with youth all over the world.

Pujan Acharya- Pujan worked as a human rights activist in Dolakha. From early on, despite growing in a society where women are supposed to stick to household chores, she had a passion for sports. In her village, she used to play with men for there wouldn’t be women players. An accomplished volleyball player and marathon runner, Pujan, 25, holds several awards for competition at the district Level. But that was not enough for someone who grew up at the foot of Rolwaling Himalayas. She gained her first mountaineering experience in 2003 when she completed Female Outdoor Leadership training. Finally she made it to the summit of Mt. Everest on 22nd of May 2008. She enjoyed a different taste of Everest and adventure as she skydived in the Everest region on 17th October, 2009 from 29,300 ft. During the cabinet meeting of Nepal Government held at Kalapatthar (5240 m), she actively participated as a venue manager.

Maya Gurung- Maya had a childhood marred with struggle and was an early rebel. She saw poor state of women both in her home and village. She always wanted to break free from it. Maya tried hands on various fields including bowling where she reigned as national champion for four years. But nothing really satisfied Maya before she went ahead to join Basic Mountaineering Course and then to climb Everest. This rebel at heart finally lived her dream of climbing on top of the world on 22nd of May 2008, and became the first Gurung woman summiteer at the age of 28. She lived her long cherished dream of sky diving on 10th October, 2008 with Everest in the backdrop. Maya led the Mt Manaslu clean-up expedition as coordinator and also was active venue manager for the cabinet meeting of Nepal Government held at Kalapatthar (5240 m) on 4th December, 2009. Her dream is to see women empowered and educated so that they are at least able to stand up for themselves.

Ngabhang Phuti Sherpa- Ngawang is from Taplejung district, home of Kanchenjunga. She lost her parents in an early age. She and her elder sister quit education to take odd jobs to look after younger siblings. She ran a restaurant in Kathmandu for couple years and quit it later after her sister went abroad. Several Sherpa climbers encouraged her to explore mountaineering. But she did not like the idea of climbing alone. When she learnt that a women’s team was being put together for climbing Everest, her hidden desire made her give it a shot.  This 33-year-old woman felt she did the right thing when she joined Basic Mountaineering Course. On the 22nd of May 2008, she reached her highest destination, Mount Everest.

Usha Bist- Born as fifth daughter in the Far-Western district of Kailali, Usha was left in the jungle for dead. That’s what earned her nickname Bandevi- goddess of the forest. It was a fellow villager who saved the new-born. From early on, Usha was inspired by women climbers and wanted to climb Mt Everest herself. She came to Kathmandu to climb Everest, not knowing where to start. She completed basic and advanced mountaineering courses, climbed a number of peaks including the notorious Amadablam.  In 2007, she earned spot in the Loktantrik Expedition Team, to attempt Everest. She was left behind at 8,400m and later rescued. To everybody’s surprise, this 24 year old finally stepped on the top of the world a year later. Her connection to forest is still alive as she is the president of Sasakta Mahila Samudayik Ban in her home district.

Today a group of Nepalese ( nine climbers) and Russian women (two form 7 Summits Club) led by Alexander Abramov went to the first acclimatization climb up to the Ice Base Refuge, at 3800 meters. Along the way, hosts and guests enjoy the beauty of waterfall Girl Braids, photographed on his background. Then they visited an abandoned refuge “105-1 picket” – where made an impromptu museum of old things, as well as melted from ice since the war, grenades and mines. And finally, the Ice Base, an unused building, at the height of shelters Garabashi. On the way back Alexander Abramov gave a competition – who more quickly run so to machine (300 meters horizontally down).

The photo greeting winners were awarded prizes in the evening - three bottles of vodka!

The group of companies “SLON” invites you to international Conference “The development of mountaineering in Caucasus. State and business. The strategy of development”. The Conference will be conducted from 20th to 22nd September in hotel “Balkaria” which is near Elbrus. Also the annual heat VI International Elbrus Race will be started. You can see the programme of the Conference below.

The aim of following Conference is to support the progress of business-structures of Caucasian region, to discuss the questions of tourism advance and to fix the main lines of development of the mountaineering industry and extreme sports. The participants of the Conference are the members of state structures, the administration of the region, sports organizations, international business-companies.

The themes of the Conference:

• Mountaineering as the main trend of tourism in Kabardino-Balkaria

• Investment in modern rescue technologies

• The safety of Elbrus: guarding the routs

• Support of mountaineering and rock climbing development in Kabardino-Balkaria

• Foreign experience of ascents for mountaineering progress in Caucasus

• Environmental public policy

• Projects that are conducted with the members of administration or business-companies: conditions, principles and procedures.

• The past, the present and the future of the mountaineering industry in Caucasus, and other themes…

About participation, sponsoring or information collaboration

Phone: +7 (495) 663 7213, +7 (916) 471 8620

E-mail: at@slon1.ru

The official site of the Cinference: www.elbrusforum.ru

The programme of the Conference

The first day. September, 20th.

10.00-11.00. Registration of participants. Salutatory coffee.

General condition of mountaineering in Caucasus.

11.00-11.15. The past, the present and the future of the mountaineering industry in Caucasus.

Alexander Fedorovskij, the President of Team Work Academy, the director of the group of companies “SLON”.

11.15-11.30. The opening speech of the Administration of Elbrus Region.

Kutman Sottaev, acting head of Administration of Elbrus Region.

11.30-12.00. Mountaineering as the main trend of tourism in Kabardino-Balkaria.

The present level of development of mountaineering.

The difficulties of mountaineering progress.

What is coming. The analysis of mountaineering in Caucasus as a kind of business.

Ruslan Jappuev, deputy head of local Administration managing the municipal property and the tourism.

Successful business – safe business

12.00-12.30. Works against the avalanches on the routs of ascents.

The level of safety. The instruments of control.

Modern abilities of prevention of avalanches.

Sergej Kuznetsov, the main engineer of the Elbrus detachment of the North-Caucasian militarized service organized to struggle against avalanches.

12.30-13.00. Rescue operations in the mountains in Caucasus.

Successful experience of rescue.

Investment in modern rescue technologies

Boris Tilov, the chief of Search-and-Rescue Service in Elbrus Region.

13.00-13.30. The safety of Elbrus: guarding the routs.

The members of the Frontier Service.

13.30-18.00. Open Space. The time of free communication.

The second day. September, 21st.

Live Presentation

The mountain routs of Caucasus.

7.00-8.00. Meeting of the group in the hotel “Balkaria”.

8.00-14.00. Climbing the mountain Cheget.

On the top of the mountain you can enjoy magnificent views. Slight breakfast. Presentation of peaks and routs.

Instructor: Alexander Fedorovskij, the President of Team Work Academy, the director of the group of companies “SLON”.

14.00-15.00. Lunch.

15.00-15.30. Mountaineering as a part of the corporative culture.

The experience of corporative ascents.

Ludmila Korobeshko, Chief Executive Officer of 7 Summits Club.

Organisation of ascents.

15.30-16.00. Support of mountaineering and rock climbing development in Kabardino-Balkaria

Difficulties of development of the mountaineering industry.

Development of attracting aspects for tourists.

Attracting the investments.

Abdul-Halim Olmezov, the President of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Federation of Kabardino-Balkaria.

16.00-16.30. Foreign experience of ascents for mountaineering progress in Caucasus.

How it happens in Himalaya, Argentina, America and Antarctica.

Alexander Abramov, the President of 7 Summits Club, Master of mountaineering of USSR, the member of Russian Geographic Society.

16.30-17.00. The development of sports tourism in North Caucasus.

The Rock Climbing Federation of Stavropol Territory.

19.00-21.00. Concert programme. Festal dinner.

The third day. September, 22nd.

Equipment

11.00-13.00. Representatives of tourist companies show their commodities.

13.00-14.00 Lunch

The circular table

Ecology

Protection and development

14.00-15.00. Themes for discussion:

Environmental public policy

Investment to the ecology as a way to develop the industry of mountaineering.

Projects that are conducted with the members of administration or business-companies: conditions, principles and procedures.

Ecological standards and systems of certification: state and independent.

Improvement of production by the use of ecological technologies.

Foreign experience and best Russian practices.

In a befitting ceremony at Air Headquarters, Air Marshal JN Burma, Air Officer-in-charge Administration (AOA) flagged off a six member mountaineering expedition team as a part of mission Seven Summit now ready to climb Mt Elbrus (5633m) in Europe and Mt Kilimanjaro (5895m) in Africa. Handing over the tri-colour and the IAF flag to the team leader Wing Commander RC Tripathi, Air Marshal Burma, he wished them all success and safe return.

The six member team of the expedition include Sqn Ldr Namit Rawat, Sqn Ldr GP Kumar, Sqn Ldr D Panda, JWO NR Choudhary VM and Sgt J Singh, who will participate in the expedition planned from 09 Aug to 04 Sep 10. All the climbers have undertaken many expeditions in Himalaya region and have vast experience of climb to their credit. IAF today is in the forefront in the field of mountaineering besides having supremacy in the skydiving sport.

With an aim to create a world record by hoisting the Indian Tricolor and IAF flag on “Top of all highest peaks of each continent” the IAF mountaineering team has already summated the highest mountain peak in the world Mt Everest, Asia in May 2005, Mt Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m), Australasia in Jan 2009, Mt Aconcagua (6962m), South America in Mar 2010 and Mt Denali (6194m) in North America in May 2010.

The IAF ‘Mission Seven Summits’, to climb all the highest peaks of all the continents was conceptualized after the successful ascent of Mt Everest in 2005 by IAF. The project is being conducted under the aegis of Directorate of Air Force Adventure, the apex body looking after various adventure activities like sky diving, para gliding, Paramotor, mountaineering, skiing, trekking, white water rafting, sailing and mountain terrain biking etc.

The last peak as a part of mission seven summit would be attempted in December is Mt Vinson Massif (ANTARTICA).

PJ/CM

Today, August, 5th, the group of 7 Summits Club in a body climbed the Western Top of Elbrus (5642 m). At seven o’clock a.m. there were 7 people staying on the summit: our guides, Alexander Abramov and Sergej Onufenko, and also Andrej Prozukin, Alexander Buriakov, Erich Wenzel, Tina Taova and Vadim Volkov.

Then the group divided into 3 smaller groups. Sergej with four people went to the North of Elbrus. Alexander Abramov and Tina went to the East summit (the Cross), after that they were going to visit the South of Elbrus.

Two other adventurers, Gennadij Maikov and Vlad Maikov, climbed the Western Top of Elbrus at 10 o’clock a.m. Now they are descending with their private guide Sasha.

Today, 29 July a large group of climbers 7 Summits Club climbed the Western Summit of Mount Elbrus. It included 11 members and 4 guide.   8 from them, led by Alexander Abramov, began their descent to the north, the area of Emmanuel Glade. Some of them climbed the Eastern Summit by the way. Other climbers have successfully gone down to the refuge Barrels. The Weather was favorable for ascent.

A Highland mountaineering instructor returned to Scotland last night after successfully climbing the last of the world’s Seven Summits.

Di Gilbert is now one of just 276 people to have reached the highest point on each of the seven continents, after successfully climbing Mount Elbrus in Russia.

Last night, the 36-year-old climber said she was delighted with her accomplishment, which she described as a “bit of an ambition” among fellow mountaineers.

She said: “It’s been my unintentional aim to do this. There is no way I would have been able to do the summits if I had to pay for them, so I worked my way up them.

“I was an exhibition leader or guide during the Mount Kilimanjaro, Mount Vinson, Mount Everest, Carstensz Pyramid and Aconcagua climbs, helping others achieve their dream.”

Miss Gilbert added: “I completed the Denali climb in North America in a group of personal friends, and this last one with just my partner, Derek. As it was my seventh summit I didn’t want to work on it, I wanted a break with someone that was special to me.”

Miss Gilbert, of High Street, Grantown, who grew up at Alford in Aberdeenshire, admitted climbing the summits had been both physically and mentally challenging, but said it became a “little bit easier” to complete Elbrus knowing it was the last one.

She added: “All of the climbs were unique, and challenging in different ways – whether it be physically or logistically. Everest was perhaps the toughest as it is the largest, but they all had their own quirks.”

Miss Gilbert, who is a full-time mountaineering instructor, plans to spend time climbing in Scotland before deciding on her next far-off adventure.

By Shona Gossip

                                    *************************

Seven summits. From http://www.digilbert.co.uk

"Mountaineers thrive on challenge: the desire to stand on top of the highest point on each of the seven continents has fired the imagination of climbing enthusiasts of all levels from around the globe.

Everest, Asia (8848m)

Aconcagua, South America (6960m)

McKinley, North America (6194m)

Kilimanjaro, Africa (5895m)

Elburs, Europe (5642m)

Vinson, Antarctica (4897m)

Carstensz Pyramid, Oceania (4884m)

Completion of this amazing feat, known as the Seven Summits, demands much of the climber - to travel to the remote and exotic corners of the world, scale the heights of mountain giants such as Everest and McKinley, and face extreme weather conditions and hostile environments for long periods over many years." Seven Summits, Steve Bell

On the 20th July 2010, Di Gilbert finally finished her unintential aim to climb all Seven Summits by standing on the top of Mount Elbrus.

It has never been on Di's agenda to climb the Seven Summits, purely due to the financial implications involved with such a large undertaking. However, she was aware that the only way she would be able to climb them, would be to work on them. And work on them, she did...

In 1999, she was Expedition Leader for World Challenge Expedition's Kilimanjaro Expedition, climbing the mountain via the Marangu route. She enjoyed it so much, she returned in 2001 as Expedtion Leader for Jagged Globe's Expedition via the Umbwe route.

In 2003, whilst working as a Guide for Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions, Nick Lewis and Di climbed Vinson via the normal route as every day work.

In 2004, she started working for Adventure Peaks as an Expedition Leader and successfully led their Cho Oyo (8002m) Expedition in Tibet. This provided the launch pad for Di to then lead their 2005 North Ridge Everest Expedition, where she was responsible for putting celebrity Jake Meyer on the summit on the 4th June.

In 2009, Di was joined by Derek Boggan and Catrin Thomas, where they flew into Denali National Park for an attempt on the Cassin Route. They had to settle for the West Buttress due to conditions on the mountain at the time.

Di was always realistic about the opportunity of leading an expedition to Carstenz Pyramid, but Adventure Peaks once again provided the opportunity and in 2009, Di and her 4 clients, successfully summited this elusive mountain.

Having now stood on 5 out of 7, Di made the conscious decision to try and finish the remaining peaks. She was Expedition for the Adventure Peak's Aconcagua Expedition in 2010, which left just one...

On 20th July 2010 at approx 1300, Di wept her way up the final slopes of Mount Elbrus after an 11 hour trail breaking ascent from Uncle Nick's Hut on the North Side of the Mountain.

Di climbed her 7th summit with her partner Derek and their Russian Guide Kirill Ivanov.

Photo's of the Expedition can be found here

http://www.digilbert.co.uk/gallery.asp?gallery_id=30#

and the report can be found here (I'm working on it now:))

On our site, we published a gallery of photos, depicting an ascent of our guide Victor Bobok and his team on Elbrus. With his team, Victor went to the Western summit twice in one day. A few days later he went again himself, with his wife Marina. Group members: Fred Cobey, Naim Logic, Alisa Schwarz (all - the U.S.), Ariana Leigh Myers (United Kingdom), Sashko Kedev (Macedonia), Dmitry Vladimirov and Dmitrii Kurkovich (Russia). Experienced guides Oleg Miller and Pavel Milanov also worked with this group ..

TO SEE MORE >>>>>>>>>>

The 'scariest thing' she's ever done …

Champion paraglider Pierre Carter needed all his experience yesterday to fly safely off the top of Mount Elbrus in Russia with top climber and The Times photographer Marianne Schwankhart.

The daring pair reached the summit of the 5642m Mount Elbrus at about noon and succeeded on their third attempt - after two crash landings - in flying tandem on a paraglider back to their high camp at about 4200m.

The South Africans aim to be the first team in the world to climb the highest peaks on each continent and fly off all the summits.

Carter, 43, who has competed internationally, said: "We had no wind and it was the hardest take-off I have ever done.

"But it was more scary for Marianne as she could see what was coming [the pilot flies at the back on a tandem flight]."

Schwankhart, 33, who has climbed dangerous and difficult rock walls from the Andes to the Karakorum, said this was the "wildest experience ever".

"We were okay but Pierre landed on me and the camera hit my nose.

"On the third attempt we had a slight, slight breeze. We ran and ran until the paraglider lifted me and then Pierre had to run for both of us. It was now or never, but it was the most scary take-off."

She said the weather was clear and still when they left for the summit at 4am, but it was a tough ascent and took about eight hours.

By CLAIRE KEETON

The Times Johannesburg